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MTG MINUTES 1986-1991 STUDY REPORTS 1960S VOLS I, II, IIA & IIIr 0 NNW SaLarr, Ktsiaric Zmkrlct Stud CormvikAee, Irves�'► a�io,n g Vol-um +s�cttc �'►s�r ic� �� Crow►b'►c S�re.ct �ts�� Tc�WY1 1-Iatl �tbtrtc.�, �or� l,ee , art '�►cker'�y'`I , Uri►vcrsalist C. mwc� on U%k �el Cly y Hail , tie. ykwja. \�atd Hose , aarQ �alo o c�y Muscv rn w,�h 1o'�blio�rap�� SALEM HISTORIC DISTRICT STUDY COMMITTEE INVESTIGATION VOLUME III Historic District West Central Street District Charter - Liberty Street District Crombie Street District Old Town Hall District and the following individual buildings or sites : Fort Lee, Fort Pickering, Universalist Church on Rust Street, City Hall, the Joshua Ward House, and the Peabody Museum. Prepared by Elizabeth K. Reardon a. HISTORIC DISTRICT WEST ANDOVER STREET Page 1 North Side # ' s 2 - 10 South Side #11 BECKFORD STREET Page 3 East Side # ' s 0 - 30 West Side # ' s 3 - 21 BOTT ' S COURT Page 9 South Side # ' s 1 - 35 North Side # ' s 2 - 34 BROAD STREET Page 8 South Side # ' s 1'. - 35 North Side # ' s 2 - 34 CAMBRIDGE STREET East Side #' s 1 - 17 Page 15 West Side #' s 6 - 18 CARPENTER STREET Page 18 West Side # ' s 3 - 7 East Side # ' s 2 - 8 CHESTNUT STREET Page 21 North Side # ' s 2 - 48 South Side # ' s 1 - 43 ESSEX STREET Page 42 South Side # ' s 311 - 401 North Side # ' s 310 - 400 FEDERAL STREET Page 60 North Side #' s 76 - 160 South Side #' s 83 - 159 FEDERAL COURT Page 84 East Side #3 West Side # ' s 4 - 6 FLINT STREET Page 87 East Side # ' s 14 - 54 West Side # ' s 15 - 41 FOWLER STREET Page 90 North Side # ' s 17 - 21 South Side # ' s 20 - 24 HAMILTON STREET Page 91 East Side # ' s 1 - 7 West Side # ' s 4 - 10 HATHORNE STREET Page 93 East Side # ' s 9 - 15 West Side #' s 10 - 26 HIGH STREET Page 95 South Side # ' s 15 - 25 North Side # ' s 6 - 26 HISTORIC DISTRICT WEST (continued) LYNN STREET Page 98 East Side # ' s 8 - 12 West Side # ' s 1 - 13 MONROE STREET . Page 100 East Side # ' s 6 - 10 West Side # ' s 5 - 7 NORTH STREET Page 101 West Side # ' s 9 - 27 NORTH PINE STREET Page 104 West Side # ' s 1 - 13 East Side #' s 2 - 8 PICKERING STREET Page 106 East Side #4 West Side #1 RIVER STREET Page 107 South Side # ' s 3 - 19 North Side # ' s 2 - 18 SUMMER STREET Page 110 East Side # ' s 5 - 55 West Side # ' s 10 - 40 WARREN STREET Page 115 South Side #' s 5 _ 25 North Side # ' s 22 - 30 CENTRAL STREET DISTRICT Page 118 East Side #' s 1 - 15 West Side #4 CHARTER - LIBERTY STREET DISTRICT Page 125 LIBERTY STREET West Side #' s 20 - 22R East Side # ' s 25 - 25A CHARTER STREET South Side #' s 23 - 53 CROMBIE STREET DISTRICT Page 136 East Side #' s 7 - 15 West Side # ' s 10 - 18 OLD TOWN HALL DISTRICT Page 140 ESSEX STREET South Side # ' s 231 - 215 DERBY SQUARE FRONT STREET Nath Side #' s 22 - 32 r HISTORIC DISTRICT WEST (continued) FORTS LEE & PICKERING Page 150 UNIVERSALIST CHURCH on RUST STREET Page 153 CITY HALL Page 154 WASHINGTON STREET - #148 Page 155 THE PEABODY MUSEUM Page 156 The following is a summary of the types of houses and ratings of structures in District West: PERIODS : RATINGS : 17th Century 6 (1651-1725) ONE 107 Pre-Federal 64 (1720-1790) TWO 163 Federal 103 (1790-1830) THREE 69 Greek Revival 46 (1830-1850) UNRATED 12 Third Quarter 46 (1850-1875) Fourth Quarter 16 (1875-1900) Colonial Revival 20 (1900) Indeterminate 9 Miscellaneous 26 This Tally includes also the Old Town Hall District, Charter-Liberty Street District, Central Street District and the Crombie Street District. ANDOVER STREET Andover Street is shown on Phillips' map of Salem about 1780. Bentley . refers to it as a new street in 1796. NORTH SIDE (even numbers} #2 Andover Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL Shaded by two enormous Chestnut trees, this three-story, square, hip roof, wooden house is unusual because the front door is not centered but rather is in line with the second vertical row of four windows. Above the door there is a Palladian window which appears to be of later vintage. The enclosed, pilastered front porch and balustrade were apparently altered many years ago in the pseudo-Colonial style, but the side door on Beckford Street with its finely reeded pilasters and semicircular fanlight remains unchanged. Research suggests that, despite the Federal exterior, part of this house was baLIS in 1739 for a Beckford. #4 Andover Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, cpboard house with a pitch roof and rear ell, which extends beyond either side of the main house, faces the street. It has a handsomer bold pedimented front entrance with fluted pilasters on either side and an oblong row of lights over the door itself. The building has two chimneys. Fiske Kimball says it was built for John Dodge about 1794, but he believes the interior was probably altered somewhat in the early 1800 ' s, perhaps by Lucius Bolles who bought it in 1808 . #6 Andover Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL This two-story, wooden, end-to-the-street house with a pitch roof and dormer windows has a central front entrance in the yard; this entrance is trimmed with pilasters and a pediment, which have recently been 1. ANDOVER STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued covered with a permanent storm porch arrangement. There is a small ell at the end of the house away from the street. #10 Andover Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story, pitch-roof, end-to-the-street house is distinguished by an irregular roof line with a bracketed cornice and fancy shingle work; the main entrance is in the side yard. It still has a nice round picket fence. #12 Andover Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small, two-story, pitch roof, wooden house placed end-to-the-street has a simple entrance in the yard with fluted pilasters at either side. ANDOVER STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) #11 Andover Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This clapboard, two-story, pitched roof house faces Andover Street at the corner of Lynn. An enormous granite step is in front of 'the enclosed, central, pedimented entry porch which has two oval windows. There is a small protruding ell on the eastern portion of the rear, a F so-called Beverly jog. The front door has been replaced. Z. BECKFORD STREET. From Essex to River Street Perley finds that Beckford Street was called a lane prior to 1675, Beckford' s Lane by 1757 and Kitchen ' s Lane, circa 1766 . In a 1773 list of streets in Felt ' s Annals, it appears that it was then called Winter Street. In 1796 Bentley reports that it was called Bickford Street. An early way to the North River, the street is older than Federal Street. EAST SIDE (even numbers) #0 Beckford Street. (See Essex Street North Side) #8 Beckford Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL The simple entablature of this two-story, gable-end-to-the-street, wooden house indicates that it dates from the late Greek Revival period. #14 Beckford Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: 17TH CENTURY This 17th century house with its pitch roof and lean-to has escaped much remodeling. Its large; central chimney is intact and can be seen by the passerby because the house, with its gable end to the street, has open space on either side. The entrance is in a later style. #16 Brckford Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. Set back from the street, this two-story, wooden, gambrel roof house reflects the renewed interest in Colonial architecture at the turn of the last century. A neighbor says tlEt it was designed by Machado, a local architect. 3. BECKFORD STREET, EAST SIDE (even numbers) continued #20 Beckford Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story oblong, end-to-the-street, hip roof building has not lost any of its architectural details. There is a gambrel-•roof ell in the rear. #22 Beckford Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The size and exterior. trim of the house on the corner of Federal Street suggest the Federal period, but the large central chimney indicates that a portion of the house dates from an earlier time. Chamberlain says it was built by Benjamin Punchard and that the date 1735 has been found in the house. According to tradition, there was formerly a penny shop in the irregularly shaped room on Federal Street. The clapboard house has three stories plus a hip roof. FEDERAL STREET CROSSES. #26 Beckford Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is a very small example of a one and one-half story, wooden house with a gambrel roof. Recent 2essarch finds that it was built in 1779: by Joseph Millet. #28 Beckford Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Gable e'nd-to-the-street, this is a two-story clapboard house with a pitch roof and Federal period entrance. The bay window is a later addition. #30 Beckford Street. RATING: TWO, PERIOD: FEDERAL. Like its neighbor, this also is a two-story, end-to-the-street, clapboard house with a pitch roof; there is a small brick ell. The typical Federal front entrance is intact except for the tracery missing in the fanlight. The window blinds, bay window, and Victorian trim at the side door are later additions. It has two large, square chimneys. WEST SIDE (odd numbers) #3 Beckford Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. The simple Palladian window in the gable identifies this as a house of 4• BECKFORD STREET, WEST SIDE (odd Numbers) continued the Colonial Revival style. The two-story,pitch roof dwelling is covered with a combination of shingles and clapboards typical of its period. #5 Beckford Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER This two-story, gable-end-to-the-street, wooden house has a side piazza entrance and is in the Italianate style. In the rear there is a period barn. #13 Beckford Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER This two-story, pitch roof, wooden building was originally used as a Hose House, and is now the Amvets building. It is set back from the street, has pedimented windows, and is topped by a small wooden bell tower. #15 Beckford Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Siding, a Victorian front entrance and an ell disguise what appears to be a Federal style, end-to-the-street house. Inside there is some trim of the early 1800 ' s type, including a rope cornice and panel' over the mantle. #17 Beckford Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. ( siding)` This three-story, hip roof, wooden/house has a pilastered, enclosed entrance porch in the yard and a large, central chimney. The bay window was probably added the litter part of the 19th century. #21 Beckford Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. Done in the Colonial Revival style, this is a large, wooden, ell- shaped, two-story, gambrel roof house. 5. BOTT'S COURT Bott ' s Court is named for James ott, who came to Salem from London and advertised in 1768 that he was a coach and chaisemaker doing business at the "Sign of the Saddle. " The court was earlier known as Bradshaw' s Gutter and was wet enough so that a punt was kept there in which to cross the "Marsh " formerly between Essex and Chestnut Streets. BOTT' S COURT, WEST SIDE (even numbers) #2 Bott ' s Court RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This appears to be a simple house of the Italianate style; it has two stories, a pitch roof and recessed front entrance on 1L.0tt' s Court. There are two ells, and there is bold wooden molding around the window frames . #4 Bott' s Court. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: TURN-OF-THE-CENTURY This small garage and studio of brick and half timbered construction, has small windowed gables. It was formerly part of the property at #7 Hamilton. #6 B Ott ' s C ourt. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL v v (Fourth Quarter) , Built in 1896 by Daniel Low for his son Seth, this Wooden house9 designed by Machado, has two stories and gambrel roof. BOTT ' S COURT, EAST SIDE (odd numbers) #5 Bott ' s Court. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Samuel Chamberlain writes that this house was built before 1800, and the owner believes that it may have been used as a shop at one time. It is a two-story, gambrel roofed wooden house with its entrance on the gable end in the yard. The original chimney, which would undoubtedly have been in the center, is now gone. The entrance location indicates that the house was remodeled many years ago. 6. BOTT 'S COURT, EAST SIDE (odd numbers) continued #7 Bott' s Court. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL The unusually high foundation of this two-story, wooden, gambrel roofed house suggests that it was moved to this location, and such seems to be the case. According to Old Naumkeaq, it was a tavern--"At the Sign of the Eagle"--kept by Jacob Bacon in 1794 near the site of the Athenaeum. Later it was the home of Captain William Mugford, famous for saving William Gray' s ship, the Ulysses, by devising a rudder when the original rudder was damaged. G. G. Putnam wrote that Mugford had a pair of emu 's eggs standing in front of his house. The central chimney is gone. & Federal entrance is hidden by later trim. Some early twelve-over-twelve windows remain. 7. BROAD STREET. From Summer Street through # 35 Broad street is "broad. " It is one of the oldest highways in Salem. The area around it belonged to Governor Endicott and was called "Governor' s Field, " and later, when the Pickerings owned it, "Broadlands. " According to Perley, it was called Broad Street by 1799. The neighborhood at the eastern end used to be known as Pickering ' s Hill, or Roast Meat Hill, and must have seemed like quite a hill compared to the nearby South River. SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) The triangle containing the Administration Building, Oliver School, and Health Center was once surrounded by streets. The road, formerly parallel with the north side of the cemetery, ran directly into High Street. There was a haymarket here in 1786, and the public scales were here until 1827, when they were moved to Bridge Street. #1 Broad Street--School Administration Building RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER This large, two-story, brick building, with its M ansa rd roof, projecting front bay and entrance up a flight of granite steps, was and served as a High School after 1897. built as a Normal School in 1854, It was enlarged in the 1870 ' s when the "French roof" was added, and the authors of Old Naumkeacl' called it "modest yet very tasty. " The site seems always to have been used for public purposes. There was an almshouse there in 1707, and in 1853 the Registry of Deeds building, designed by McIntire, was demolished to make room for the present building. #3 Broad Street -- Oliver School. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL plus The brick, two-story/ hip roof Oliver School building was built in 1818 and is said to have the longest history as a continuously operated public school in the state. It was formerly the Latin School., and is 8. BROAD STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd Numbers) continued on the site of Rust ' s duck factory where sails were made, notably those for the Frigate Essex in 1799. The building has many details which are characteristic of the Federal period; these include the windows with sandstone lintels set in blind arcades, applied wooden pilasters and balusters (west end only now) , brow+tone belt or course at the second story level, and a wooden cornice trimmed with modillions. #5 Broad Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is the third large and imposing brick public building in this cluster at the end of Broad Street. It has stone trim and a projecting central gabled bay. A large wooden bell tower tops the building which was built in 1856 as the High School and remodeled in 1871. Recently it has been converted into a Health Center. BROAD STREET CEMETERY. RATING: ONE. The high southeastern portion of this cemetery is the oldest section. It was first set apart as a burying ground around 1655 and was called Burying Hill. It was fenced in 1732 and the row of tombs along Broad Street are dated 1802. (5ee the plaques attached to the iron fence} . There one can see the tombstones of Dr. Edward Augustus Holyoke, Captain Jonathan Haraden, the Saunderson �� 3 brothers, Cole Timothy Pickering,• the Rev+ Thomas Barnard, Jonathan Hodges, Jerethmiel Pierce, and many, many more. Captain George Corwin, sheriff in 1692, is said to have been buried in the cellar of his house on Washington Street temporarily because of the animosity against him for his part in the witchcraft days; he was finally interred in this cemetery. WINTHROP STREET BEGINS. 9• �1 BROAD STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued #19 Broad Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GOTHIC REVIVAL. Raised and set back from the street, this one-story, steep pitch roof house with its typically decorated gable ends is a fine example of the Gothic Revival style. It has a matched board facade, French windows, and a gabled dormer window over the front door, as well as a typical fancy wooden fence and hitching post in front. There is a Federal period entr3= the western side which is hard to explain., Archer wrote that William Brown, clerk at the State House and tenor at the First Church built the "cottage house" and lived in it. #192-21 Broad Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story, wooden house with its pitch roof is a good example of a simple two-family dwelling of the Italianate style. ORNE SQUARE BEGINS. #23-252 Broad Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER This building is nearly identical with the preceding house, except that it is a three-family home. #27 Broad Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This house has many characteristics of the Greek Revival style. It is raised above the street level and back from the street, has French windows with typical wooden lintels and front doorway to match. The most noticeable feature of this house is its steep pitch roof and three gabled dormer windows. The house was built in the 1830 ' s by Steven Driver, Jr. , of the well-known Driver family. In the yard there is a small building which was recently moved from the old Mill Hill railroad crossing, where it was the gate tender' s shelter for many years. 10,. BROAD STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued #29 Broad Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. has three stories A good example of the typical Federal house , this is squares/with a hip roof and a matched board facade; there is an ell in the rear. The front portico with its slender columns and modillions as well as the fanlighted doorway are also typical of the period. To the east of the house there is a small chaisehouse of the same period. Probably this is the "new" house built by Ezekiel Savage in 1808 to which Oliver Thayer refers in his article on Upper Essex Street. #31 Broad Street. RATING: ONE. STYLE: GREEK REVIVAL. This interesting house is undoubtedly of the Greek Revival period, but the front portico with its slender fluted Ionic columns is reminiscent of the Federal period. It is a two-story wooden house with a matched board facade, clapboard sides and a pitch roof; a shallow gable above the front entrance is decorated with a handsome carved festoon. The ironwork fence on the second-story window balconies is one of the outstanding features of this house. This is now the home of the Catholic Charities. #35 Broad Street. RATING: ONE. STYLE: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story, wooden house with its pitch roof, French windows and typical Greek Revival front entrance is smaller and simpler than its preceding neighbors, but it is an excellent example of the Greek Revival style. Typical details are the placement of the entrance with its granite steps, the matched board facade and the pointed molded lintels above the windows. 11. BROAD STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers through 434) #2-4 Broad Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is a particularly long example of a gambrel roof wooden house. It is unusual, too, because the recessed front entrance is not and the foundation is high; centrally located/ perhaps it has been moved or altered. There are three pedimented dormer windows, and rear additions have been made to the house from time to time. #6 Broad Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small, two-story, wooden gambrel roof house is very simple and forms pleasing. There is an ell on the rear which/ : a "Beverly jog" with an entrance in it. The front doorway has typical pilasters on either side. #8 Broad Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Number 8 is a two-storyf, wooden�gambrel roof house which is end-to- the-street and has an ell. The enclosed entry porch appears to have .been added at some later date, since it partially covers pilasters on either side of the door, but it was done very carefully in the Colonial style. #10 Broad Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: TOPSY This house has almost no architectural details or trim which set it apart, but rather it is interesting because of its various roof lines. Three distinct building stages are evident from the outside of this house, part of which may be quite old. No doubt the west end is older than the eastern because the pitch roof is lower; the ell on Cambridge street follows the line of the street instead of being straight. CAMBRIDGE STREET ENDS. 12. BROAD STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued #12 Broad Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL The exterior of this gambrel roof ytwo-story, wooden house facing Broad Street is Pre-Federal in style, but the size of the large central chimney indicates that its origin is 17th century and that the roof was changed later. The enclosed front porch with its pilasters and pediment is a pleasing Federal reproduction. #14 Broad Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This two-story, pitch roof, wooden house is set back from and faces Broad Street. There is a shallow gable decorated with modillions at the roof line above the front door, which is simple and recessed. #18 Broad Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: 17TH CENTURY WITH GOTHIC REVIVAL TRIM. , by John Pickering The Pickering House was begun in 1651/when the eastern end was built on land bought from Emmanuel Downing; the western half was added some twenty years later, and other additions have been made to the rear from time to time. The clustered column central chimney gives notice that this house is ancient. The other characteristics of a 17th century house are very neatly disguised under trim of the Gothic Revival period which was applied in 1841. The stable and elegant fence are also in the Gothic Revival style, and the very old hedge behind the front fence is English buckthorn. In the garden there is a very recently built gazebo copied from an old one in Beverly; it is topped by a copper eagle. This farmhouse has been in the Pickering family ever since it was built and was the birthplace of C04"cTimothy Pickering, who was aide-de-camp to General Washington during the Revolution, and later Secretary of War, Secretary of State, and Postmaster-General. PICKERING STREET BEGINS. 13. 4_ BROAD STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued ##28 Broad Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER This large wooden house has all its architectural details intact. it is a double house with its gable end to the street; two-story bay windows are symmetrically placed on either side of the front entrance and balanced ells project on either side of the building. Scalloped slates undewthe bay windows are echoed by scalloped shingles decorating the top of .the gable. #30 Broad Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a simple two-story 9 wooden house with a pitch roof; it faces Broad Street and has a typical pilastered front entrance with sidelights. The house is on a large lot, enclosed by a wooden picket fence. #32 Broad Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER, This house is in the Italianate style with a side entrance piazza on the east. The western entrance appears to be a later modification. a house It is/two-story,wooden/with pitch roof. #34 Broad Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. The main entrance of this house• is reminiscent of Colonial architecture with its pilasters and pediment. A bay window above the door and two- story enclosed sun porch on the west are not Colonial forms.. I Number 34 is a two-story,wooden, pitch roof, gable-end-to-the-street house. CAMBRIDGE STREET. Essex to Broad Street, #' s 1 to 17 East Side #' s 6 to 18 West Side According to Perley, the North end of this street was referred to as a lane in 1679, and in 1695, as the "lane towards Samuel Woodwell' s brick Kiln. " Bentley refers to it as a "new street" in 1796. It was laid out on land sold by the Neal family w3ao lived on Broad Street. At one time the northern end was called "Assembly Court, " presumably for the Assembly building which was near Chestnut Street before the South Church was built there in the early 1800 ' s. EAST SIDE (odd numbers) #1 Cambridge Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL This large, two-story wooden house, called the Captain Thomas Mason House, is irregular in shape to conform to the lot of land on which it is placed. It has a recessed front entrance, dormer windows, a gambrel roof, and modillioned cornice, said by Cousins and Riley to have replaced an earlier hip roof, circa 1900. The interior contains fine pre-Federal paneling and several very excellent Federal period mantels similar to those by McIntire. During the early 1800 ' s, it was the home of Captain Daniel Pierce, whose family later moved to Gallipolis, Ohio. Prior to that, Dr. Barnard, an apothecary, lived there and had a shop in the front of the house on Essex Street. #112 Cambridge Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small, two-story, wooden, . L.-shaped building with a pitch roof was originally an ell of the Bowditch House on North Street. It has two well executed pedimented entrances, which are careful reproductions of earlier ones. There is .a Rumford oven inside. #3 Cambridge Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, clapboarded, gambrel...roof house is no longer a typically shaped Federal house. According to a former owner, her 15. CAMBRIDGE STREET, EAST SIDE (odd numbers) continued father cut the usual long-end-to-the-street house in half, moved the eastern end north and east, and enlarged the house by inserting a middle section. Facing Chestnut Street, it has a wooden picket fence with posts topped by balls, and a wooden archway in the side garden. The main entrance in the yard has an enclosed porch trimmed with reeded pilasters . In the yard of #3, there is a simple, two-story, pitch roof dwelling, which was moved there from the northwestern portion of the lot where the large stone church formerly stood on Chestnut Street. CHESTNUT STREET CROSSES. #9 Cambridge Street. RATIRG: THREE. Pl;.RZOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL or FOURTH QUARTER. This house appears to be more recent than any on the street; however, it is on the 1897 Atlas . It is a two-story, shingled, gambrel roof house with entrance through a side porch. #11 Cambridge Street. RATING: TWO. PEgIOD: , GREEK REVIVAL. This small house is a twin to its neighbor on the south which it faces. The entrance was changed at a later date and a piazza added. It is gable-end to the street, one and one-half stories high, and has a pitch roof. #13 Cambridge Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL (See #11) This building has its original Greek Revival period trim around the entrance. It is a twin to #11 and -must have been built at the same time. #15 Cambridge Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD:omCOLONIAL REVIVAL Like #9, this two-story, pitch roof, gable-end-to-the-street, wooden building is a relative newcomer to Cambridge Street and was probably erected during the fourth quarter of the 19th century. It has a bay window overlooking the street. #17 Cambridge Street. RATING: TWO. _ PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, wooden house 51with gambrel roof is placed with its 16. CAMBRIDGE STREET, EAST SIDE (odd numbers) continued end to the street. All of its architectural features appear to be intact, including narrow windows with a six-over-nine arrangement of small panes. Two tall, slender chimneys are typical of the Federal period. CAMBRIDGE STREET, WEST SIDE (even numbers) #6 Cambridge Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This L-shaped, wooden, gambrel roof, two-story house has a side entrance with Greek Revival trim. The gable end of the house is on the street. CHESTNUT STREET CROSSES. #14 Cambridge Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Samuel McIntire designed this three-story, end-to-the-street, clapboard building for Thomas Butman in 1806-07. According to Fiske Kimball, the rear ell and porch, although later, are of an early date. The exterior architectural details are intact, and the McIntire trim remains in portions of the interior. The house is well placed with terraced gardens in front of it. #16 Cambridge Street. RMTING: TWO. PERIOD_: FEDERAL, This small two-story wooden house with pitch roof is what is called a half-house, with a front entrance at one end. Simple pilasters frame the recessed entrance. #18 Cambridge Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. Number 18 is a two-story, wooden house with a Mansard roof, dormer windows and a recessed front door. It is in the Italianate style, with many brackets under the eaves and cornice of the bay window. 17. CARPENTER STREET --From Federal to Bridge Street Carpenter street was laid out in 1800, according to Perley. Bentley, writing in his Diary on January 16, 1806, says: "This evening after six was Cry of fire. It was found to be in a New House in Carpenter Street on the bank of the North River. It was kindled in an unfinished room among Shavings by children who were feeding a fire on a cold evening while their parents were at a Lecture. . . . It spread and consumed two other new buildings. " A footnote in the Diary reports that "The fire began in the house of, Joseph Edwards and also destroyed the houses of Solomon Chaplin and Deacon Lamson. All were carpenters . " It may be that the name of the street was selected because so many been carpenters lived there, although ijalso could have named for Mr. Carpenter who built the house across Federal Street, numbered 135 . Charles Archer, writing in 1922, says there used to be a beach at the foot of Carpenter Street and that after the railroad was laid about 1850 a huge pile of sand remained at the foot of the street where all the neighborhood children played. The 1874 Atlas shows the street running only to the present Gifford C ourt, and beyond that on the banks of the river, T. J. Gifford & Company had a mill. WEST SIDE (odd numbers) #3 Carpenter Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large: two-story, Hansard roof, wooden (siding) house is ell- shaped and has a small entpance porch in the corner formed by its two sections . A large dentil cornice under the eaves and pediments over the first-story windows are features of the Colonial Revival style of this period. #5 Carpenter Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, brick house has a shallow hip roof and two chimneys. It is end to the street, and the side yard is enclosed by the remains of what was once a typical and very handsome Federal style wooden 18. CARPENTER STREET, WEST SIDE (odd numbers) continued fence, the posts of which have reeded trim. There- is a semicircular fanlight above the side yard entrance which is trimmed with fluted pilasters and modillion blocks carved with floral motifs. Two wooden ells with pitch roofs are strung along towards the large garden in the rear. This house is not included in the 1806 list of brick houses and is, therefore, probably slightly later than that date. The day after Bentley wrote of the fire on the street, he noted: "We see the great danger to which we are exposed from the very great number of wooden buildings. Of the three houses, two might easily have been saved by brick walls . r Archer writing in 1922 says this house was at one time the home of General Oliver and later of the Machados,. "whose father Jose was an exiled Cuban Don before the Spanish war. " #7 Carpenter Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large, square three-story, wooden house was built for the Children ' s Friend Society in 1877 and was used as a home for children until the 1940 ' s . Prior to 1877 the Society owned an adjacent building which was given them in 1844 by Robert Brookhouse, and Bentley wrote on October 5 , 1808: "The Female Asylum have a house in Carpenter Street and nine children under their care. . . .They have not quite paid for it but borrow 400 dollars from the Widow' s fund & pay interest. " This house has an imposing portico up a flight of granite steps. The facade is rusticated. GIFFORD COURT BEGINS EAST SIDE (even numbers) #2 Carpenter Street. (See #134 Federal Street) #4 Carpenter Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This Dutch gambrel roof, two-story, wooden house is set back from and is gable end to the street. The main entrance in the yard is sheltered by a large covered piazza with columns; there are leaded sidelights on 19. CARPENTER STREET, EAST SIDE (even numbers) continued either side of the door. The house was designed by Ernest Machado and built about 1905 for the Nichols family. #6 Carpenter Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, wooden, gambrel roof house is quite far back from and end to the street. The two slender chimneys appear to be of the Federal period. The main entrance in the yard has probably been altered by the addition of a two-story, enclosed porch with a to recessed doorway. , Ell is in the rear. According to Archer, this was once the home of Dr. Samuel Worcester, pastor of the Tabernacle Church. #8 Carpenter Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The gable end of this two-story, wooden, shingled gambrel-roofed house is directly on the street. The front door, which does not in the side yard. appear to be original, is in a flat-roofed enclosed porch/ The two-story bay window is a later addition, but there are two Federal style chimneys. In the rear there is a small ell. 20. r CHESTNTJT.'STREET - From Summer Street to Flint Street. Chestnut Street was laid out in 1796 by the town of Salem. Originally it was to be only forty feet wide, but John Pickering and Pickering Dodge wanted it wider, and in 1804, it was finally agreed that it should be its present width. The April 1945 copy of the Essex Institute Historical Collections contains an amusing story about the squabbles resulting from the differences of opinion about its width which resulted in a wall built to divide uncooperative land owners from the street. The author, John Nichols, wrote that when Captain Phillips ' house at 17 Chestnut Street was being builtreach workman was to carry away a stone from the wall each time he left work until the wall was finally removed. The short portion of the street from Cambridge to Summer Street was probably a lane prior to 1796, which would have given access to a brick yard then on the site of Hamilton Hall. How- ever, the northern section of Cambridge Street was also open some years prior to Chestnut Street. It is thought that Ruck ' s Creek or Sweet' s Cove came nearly up to the eastern end of Chestnut Street, and supposedly the land around it was boggy. Why the new street was named Chestnut Street is not known. The first homeowners planted elm and Lombardy poplar trees along the street; the poplars blew down in a storm in 1815 , and were replaced by more elms. The householders also provided their own sidewalks and a visitor to Salem in 1826 (Essex Institute Historical Collections, Volume 42, Page 376) wrote, "there is one (church) in a noble street which has a lofty spire. , . This street. . . , .is one of the finest I ever saw. It has noble sidewalks and the buildings on each side gave the impression of comfort and elegance. " The elms and slender, soaring, Federal period chimneys give the street a vertical rhythm just as the porticos provide accents at the sidewalk level. The average visitor to Salem believes the houses on Chestnut Street were all designed by McIntire; 21. CHESTNUT STREET - continued the fact is that he is responsible for very few of them. The street is proof that Salem had an abundance of excellent master builders dur- ing this period. Salem in the early 1800 ' s was a wealthy and cosmopolitan city as a result of its mercantile successes, and its merchants, who had sailed to the ends of the earth, built these large and impressive homes for themselves . Occasionally several of the houses fly the "house flags" or private signals of the merchants who built the houses. When the street was younger the proud householders undoubtedly enjoyed show- it ing/off frequently, just as all Salem does today. In 1816, Bentley mentions that the Militia "troops were first displayed in Chestnut Street and there received the Regimental Standards. " Certainly most of the visiting dignitaries were entertained on and saw the street. Chestnut Street has been the home of many of Salem' s Mayors. Several of the finest buildings are said to have been built for Pickering Dodge; it would be interesting to study his influence on the street and try to discover his reasons for building more than one house. CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE # ' s 1-43 #1 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. According to Wiswall, this interesting house was built about 1846 by Francis Cox on land previously a garden, and before that Aiken' s Bakery. Charles Archer in a 1922 Salem News article wrote that Cox bought the land in 1825. The wooden house has two stories, plus a combination pitch and hip roof and is asymetrical, a characteristic of the new romantic architectural styles. The house represents a clean break with the and the Greek Revival. balanced classical facades of the Federal period, There are paired round-headed windows with hood moldings, bay windows, fancy cut-out 22. CHESTNUT STREET - SQQT£H SIDE continued railings around the second-floor balconies and simple brackets under the overhanging eavesi features of the Italianate or bracket style which dominated the period from 1850 to 1875 . This house should probably be considered an early- Salem example of this later Italianate style. Bentley, writing in 1808, refers to the "Italian Villa of Colonel Thomas Cushing" in North Fields, but what he considered an Italian Villa is not known. #5-7 Chestnut Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. According to Wiswall' s research, this house was built by Deacon Stone as an investment in 1827-1828; the carpenter was William Lummus . The eastern half o£ .this double house was the birthplace of Ernest Fen ,llosa, the outstanding early student of Oriental life and art. This two-story, plus pitch roof, double house has a matched board facade and was undoubtedly symmetrical when first built. New altera- tions in each half have resulted in a lack of balance. The western half was modified by Willard Phillips Iwho lived there from 1859 to 1885 . The dormer windows in the eastern half are a very recent alteration. In the yard of the eastern half there is a small, one-story, pitch roof chaise house with an eliptical arched and keystoned entrance and a lunette above. #9 Chestnut Street HAMILTON HALL. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Hamilton Hall was designed by Samuel McIntire (Essex Institute Historical Oollections, January 1955) as a social gathering place for Salem' s wealthy Federalist merchants, hence the name Hamilton Hall in honor of their hero, Alexander Hamilton. Bentley wrote on November 23, 1805, that the Republicans were refused a place in the Assembly for dancing and opened an Assembly for their own friends . "The illiberality which occasioned this separation arose from the irreconcileable enmity of the Derby & Crowninshield families . " On December 4, 1805, Bentley, a Republican, wrote, "The shameful exclusion if not expulsion of the 23. K CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued Republicans from the Assemblies for DOLncing has kindled a just resent- ment. . . . .. " Dr. Hopkinsithe minister of the South Church across the street .$ opposed the dancing in Hamilton Hall; and is quoted as having said in one of his sermons, "Back to back. and breast to breast they are dancing their way down to Hell. " Many famous citizens have been feted in the Hall. At a banquet in honor of Commodore Bainbridge of the Constitution, after the drinking of many toasts, the miniature cannon on a large model of the Constitution which was in the Hall (now in the Peabody Museum) were fired and ruined the model ' s rigging. Prisoners of War on a prison ship tied up at the wharf at the foot of Rust Street re- rigged it. The Hall was begun in 1805 . Fiske Kimball says the records of the Proprietors of the South Buildings who own the hall show that the lower western end was not completed until 1824; and that a new front door (probably on Cambridge Street) was provided in 1845 . It is a three- story brick (Flemish bond) building with a pitch roof; the gable end is on Cambridge Street. The five-bay Chestnut Street side of the building is trimmed with the favorite Federal period motifs, carved swags and an eagle, above the five second-floor Palladian windows. The first-floor windows below the brick belt are set in simple plank frames with no lintels. The ground floor has always contained shops and caterers, as it does today. CAMBRIDGE STREET CROSSES. #13 Chestnut Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Wiswall ' s account of Chestnut Street says that this house was built about 1832 for Mrs . Elizabeth King by William Lummus, who also built #5-7 . Prior to that, Wiswall says, the land was used as a garden by #15 . 240 CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued Dr. Thomas Kittredge, Surgeon General of the Commonwealth, bought it in 1884, and his family continued to live there until several years ago. It is a two-story, pitch roof house with a recessed, central front entrance up a short flight of stone steps. There is an oblong light above the door and fluted pilasters on either side of the recess. The facade is of matched boards . The bay window is undoubtedly a later addition like most of the others on the street. #15 Chestnut Street RAmTNG: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Authorities differ about #15. Wiswall wrote that Captain Solomon Towne, a shipmaster for "Billy" Gray, bought the land for this house in 1807; from his brother Amos)who lived and taught school in a build- ing which Wiswall says was earlier on the location of #13 . (There was another school on the street where #29 now is - more information about Towne ' s School has not been found.) The house was probably built shortly thereafter for Captain Towne, who lived there until his death in 1835 on the coast of Sumatra. Archer' s article in the Salem News in 1922, recalls i: : having been a double house in his youth. Fiske Kimball states the house was built about 1804; by Amos Townewhobought the vacant land in 1803. and sold it with a dwelling house and other buildings in 1805 . The clapboard building has three stories plus a hip roof and is directly on the street; in fact, the stairs to the entrance portico project over the sidewalk. It is trimmed with handsome, bold archi- tectural details; i.e.9the pedimented Doric portico (similar to that at the Peirce-Nichols house - 1782) and Doric window Gyps. The ell at the rear of the west side is a recent addition. Beyond it there is a spacious garden big enough to have been a separate house lot. 25. CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued #17 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. According to the list of brick houses in Salem printed in the 1806 Gazette, this house, with its brick ends, was built by Captain Stephen Phillips in 1805 . It remained in the Phillips family until 1883 . Captain Phillips ' son, S. C. Phillips was the Mayor of Salem from 1838 to 1842, and the Misses Phillips kept a dame ' s school here until it was sold in 1883, to Benjamin D. Shreve, who converted it into a two-family house. Harriet Terry ' s reminiscences printed in the Essex Institute Historical Collections in 1948, say , "Mrs. Phillips ' grounds were a marvel of neatness. . . .Mr. P. had a Chinaman that would not suffer a weed to sprout in the wrong place. " The house has a matched board facade, three stories and a hip roof and is directly on the sidewalk. The brick ends are Flemish bond and the windows are in plank frames . There is a wooden service ell in the rear. Built the same year as the McIntire-designed Pingree House, it has a similar eliptical portico with very slender delicate columns . Who designed and built the house is not known; however, Bentley wrote on October 21, 1807, comparing the price of brick versus wooden houses, that: "Mr. Putnam, the undertaker (builder) , reckons. . . .. . the difference between brick & woed-at 20 pr. Cent upon the price for brick beyond wood. He found this difference in the houses of nearly the same dimen- Sions built for Cleaveland & Phillips in the new street in the south western part of the town. " This quotation does suggest that Mr. Putnam (possibly Perley Putnam who lived on Andrew Street and supervised the building of the Custom House in 1819) was the master builder for #17 . A two story, hip roof, wooden barn in the side yard is connected to the house by a one-story shed. Since the above was written papers have been discovered in the Phillips family documents about the building of #17. #19 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Charles Cleveland sold the unfinished house at 19 Chestnut Street to 26. CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued Captain Israel Williams in 1805_ for $7, 500. Captain Williams finished the house and built the handsome two-story, pitch roof, L-shaped chaise house in the yard. Captain Williams was a shipmaster, merchant, Captain of the R Salem Cadets and of the Essex Guards, and his wife was the daughter of Aaron Waite, of the firm of Peirce and Waite. It was later the home of merchant Henry W. Peabody. William G. Rantoul, an architect, purchased the property in 1907 and about that time made some exterior changes, according to Cousins and Riley. They state that he added a balustrade (now gone) at the eaves, the window caps which are a feature usually found in the pre-Federal period, and the .pedimented Doric portico which is said to have been copied from the one at #15 Chestnut Street. The house is wooden, has three stories and a hip roof plus a two-story service ell in the rear. The builder may have been Putnam, ($ee #17.) #21-23 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This large.. 4ouble, brick house was built for John and Henry Pickering in 1814-1815 : by Jabez Smithjmaster builder. A letter in the April 1947, Essex Institute Historical Collections says Henry was responsible for the arrangements for building and furnishing it. He moved into the eastern end and John, the linguist and lexicographer, into the western half from the house at the corner of Botts Court. Judge Elisha Mack and his son, William Mack, owned the east end from 1837 to 1896 . This is the same family that gave the city Mack Park. Pickering Dodge bought the western half in 1820,, and evidently lived there until the house he was building at #29 was completed. After that, #23 was owned and lived in by countless Stones until 1898 . The four Stone brothers were members of a very successful mercantile firm in New York. (See Salem Vessels & Their Voyages, page 93 .) 27. CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued This double house is a large, three-stories plus hip roof, Flemish bond brick building with balanced, matching semi- circular Ionic porticos similar to the one at #17 . The splayed stone window lintels have beaded keystones . The house is set back from the street 1enough to create: a narrow front yard which is enclosed by a cast iron fence. Behind #23 there is a fine, brick, two-story plus hip roof chaise house with a brick dentil cornice. #25 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Pickering Dodge bought the land for this house from John Pickering in 1802, and Wiswall thinks he built the house shortly thereafter. Whether he lived there before moving. into #23 is unknown, but it seems likely, since he didn ' t buy #23 until 1820 . It was later sold to the Barstow family who owned it until after 1870; by 1895, George West was living there. This is a three-story, clapboard house with a hip roof directly on the sidewalk over which the front stone stairs project. The stairs lead to a semicircular portico. There is the usual delicate fanlight over the front door. Fiske Kimball points out that the stable and fence with urns and portico (which are now gone - 1966) were similar to some de- signed by McIntire. Bentley writing on October 8, 1803., says: "An attempt was made last month to run a street from Pickering ' s in Broadway to Chestnut Street without the privity of the Owner of the land, who was not to be informed till the plan was ready. Instantly a house was framed & in one day it was up & covered. " Whether this refers to Pickering or Cambridge Street is unknown. There is a similar tale about Hamilton Street. #27 Chestnut Street R!�TING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. A note in Bentley' s Diary on December 9, 1819, records that "D. Pickman' s 28. CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued house on Pickering farm is covered. Pickman ' s house large. " Dudley L. Pickman, merchant of the firm of Pickman, Stone & Silsbee, had Jabez Smith, one of Salem' s master builders, build this three-story, plus hip roof mansion on the corner of Pickering and Chestnut Street, and the Pickman family resided in it until 1865 . Silsbees, Shreves and Littles followed, and later it was the home of Walter Poor, one of the founders of the Hygrade, now Sylvania Electric Products Company. The house is set back from the street and is entered up a broad flight of granite steps through a porticoed doorway. The facade is made elegant by the use of a Palladian window above the front door and a lunette above that. The splayed, stone, window lintels have a beaded, molded keystone. Like #29 beyond, this house has a large yard to the west enclosed by a cast iron picket fence. This is the earliest brick house on the street which is not laid up im Flemish bond. #29 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This house, similar in size and grandeur to its neighbor #27, was begun for Pickering Dodge in 1822 . David Lord, an Englishman, was the master builder in charge of the plans and construction. A letter at the Essex Institute gives details of the construction of the house .as recorded by one of the carpenters . Dodge, an "active, enterprising merchant" built his house on a double lot, part of which had been the location of a school which was moved. The three-story, brick, hip roof, square house. is similar in its massiveness and over-all plan to its neighbor #27, but differs in details . The window lintels are panelled with Greek key motifs, the Palladian window above the portico is an unusual one, and there is no lunette on the third floor. The wooden cornices and porti- cos of both houses are both in the Corinthian order; #29 has a balus- trade above the portico. 29• CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued This house is noted for its fine Italian marble mantels and bathtub which were imported from Italy by Pickering Dodge. Behind the house there is a one-story brick chaise house; the second story was removed after it was damaged by a hurricane about 1940 . Another hurricanea few years later demolished a high brick wall, formerly the north wall of a greenhouse which gave the yard beyond a sense of privacy. #31-33-35 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The only triple block on Chestnut Street was built by Pickering Dodge about 1828 in what had been Judge Putnam' s mowing field, and is said to have been for Dodge ' s daughters. His son-in-law, John Fiske Allen, took over the completion of the block when Mr. Dodge died in 1833 and lived in #31 for a long time. Mr. Allen was a horticulturist of note and had a greenhouse on Flint Street where the Bowditch School is . Since 1914, it has been the home of Dr. Walter G. Phippen. The middle block was the home of Charles Sanders, Captain Charles Endicott and Pickering Dodge, Jr. , until 1864, when the George Osgood family bought it and remained there until the 1940 ' s. Endicott was master of ,the ship Friendship when it was savagely attacked by Malays 4 in 1831 on the coast of Sumatra. The western end was the home of Charles W. Upham, Mayor of Salem in 1852, and later of F.sahel Huntington and his son Arthur, each of whom served as Mayor of Salem. It is probably the only house in Salem which has been home to three mayors. The house is a three-story plus pitch roof, brick structure, the tallest on the street, and the only triple block; it represents the beginning of the kind of row housing which was to become common on city streets in later years . The rectangular, stone window lintels 30. CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued are reeded and the three matching porticos have Ionic columns . The wooden cornice is a series of large wooden beads . In the yard of #35 there is a fable-end-to-the-street, wooden carriage house which was converted into a small house just before World War II; the old woodwork and pedimented entrance came from the Chase House which was at 21 Federal Street and demolished at that time. #37 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL_ John H. Nichols wrote the history of this house in 1884, which was printed in the April 1945, Essex Institute Historical Collections. He says it was begun in 1816 for his father George Nichols by Jabez Smith. William A. Lander made some additions between 1827-1844, including the iron fence. The house is typical of the three-story, hip roof, L-shaped brick (Flemish bond) Federal house. Its simple trim consists of a wooden cornice and modillions, spayed, reeded stone window lintels and a fine portico with Ionic columns. No bay windows or other alterations mar its simple beauty. #39 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The large, hip roof, three-story, brick (Flemish bond) house at #39 was built in 1805 , by Captain Thomas Saunders . Shortly after William Barker bought it in 1893, he made some extensive modifications in the house. His daughter, Miss Barker, says he moved it back from the street, raised it, and added the bay window above the semi-circular Ionic portico and the bow on the west side. There is a picture of the house prior to the alteration at the Essex Institute. The house is interesting because it is the only one on the street which combines the stone, keyed window lintels with the wide, shallow-plank window frame. (See #8. ) The lintels are four bricks high rather than the more usual three, and they are evident in the pictures taken prior to the aforementioned alterations. #41-43 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. 32. CHESTNUT STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued The large brick double house at the end of the street was built in 1810-1811 by Captain Thomas Saunders (who lived next door) when his two daughters married the Saltonstall brothers, Nathaniel and Leverett, Salem' s first mayor. The house was built on the site of the home of Captain Saunders ' mother, Mrs . Greenwood, which was moved to Essex Street. This very long brick (Flemish bond) house has three stories, plus a hip roof on two levels . Unlike the other double houses on the street, the Ionic entrance porticos are at either end of the building. The fact that the present entrance at the east end is in what appears to be a later addition, suggests that that handsome and unique deep, six-columned portico is a modification of the original entrance which was probably similar to the one on Flint Street. Molded bricks form the dentil cornice and the window lintels are of simple, splayed and brown reeded/stone . 3T. CHESTNUT STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) #2-4 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This large, double, brick house has arched, recessed, adjacent entrances which are unusual in Salem. The two other noticeable examples are on Bridge Street at the corner of North Court and on the north side of the Common. In this case, there is a small door leading from one recess to the other, a neighborly approach. The house was built about 1826, by Deacon Stone Iwho lived in #2 until he moved to #8 in 1839. The builders were Clarke and Pike; the mason was James Stone. This house is frequently referred to as the Studio Building. Fiske Kimball quotes John Robinson as having said the mantel in the rear parlor of the Woman ' s Friend on Hawthorne Boulevard came from #2 and was carved by Samuel Field McIntire. The wooden beads which form the cornice and the rectangular window lintels are similar to details at #26 and # ' s 31-35whichdate from the same time. #6 Chestnut Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. Wiswall believes the present wooden house was built about 1853 ; by Charles S . Nichols and that an earlier building on this location, the home of Joseph Mclntire,brother of Samuel, must have been removed. The style of the house indicates that this is an accurate assumption. It is a two-story, pitch roof house with a matched board facade, large windows and a shallow gable over the front door. The bay window was added in 1874, at a cost of $81.00, according to the bill in the possession of the present owners . #8 Chestnut Street Ri:.TIN1a: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. There is a very handsome, simple fanlight and entrance on the west 33. CHESTNUT STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued side of this three-story, brick, hip roof house. It was first built as a one-story building in 1805 : by Daniel Gregg and is included in the 1806 list of brick houses in Salem. Deacon John Stone added the top two stories between 1825 and 1830 . The fact that the first- story brickwork is Flemish bond and the upper stories are not sup- ports the fact that part was built in 1805 and part later. On the north end of the house there are two wooden ells, one with a gambrel roof. The windows have no lintels, and the window sash is set in a wide so-called "plank frame" which seems to have gone out of style in Salem by 1810 . Next to #B .Chestnut Street there is a large vacant lot which was used for a brickyard until the South Church was built there in 1804. Designed by McIntire, it burned in 1903, after which a large stone church was erected on the lot. This in turn was bought and demolished by the Chestnut Street Associates about 1950, when the church no longer had enough parishioners to support it. North of the site of the South Church there once was an Assembly House built in 1766; and used as a church from 1774 until the South Church was built. CAMBRIDGE STREET CROSSES. #10 Chestnut Street. R-..=gG: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The large, square, brick (Flemish bond) , three-story, hip roof house at the corner of Chestnut and Cambridge Streets was built _bout 1808 . by Nathan Robinson, a Salem merchant. From 1890 until 1939, it was the home of Phillip Little, a well-known Salem artist. The original six-over-six windows have been replaced with two-over-two. Archer reports that at one time Charles Fabens, a well-known Salem merchant, lived there. 34• CHESTNUT STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers l continued The house is entered through a rectangular portico, and the entrance has typical Federal period fanlight and sidelight treat- ment. The splayed, stone lintels above the windows are reeded. Carved urns adorn the wooden fence posts and an arched trellis leads into the garden behind the house. #12 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, square, brick (Flemish bond) , hip roof house was designed by Samuel McIntire for, Captain Jonathan Hodges as a two- family house and was built in 1805, according to the Gazette 1806 list. Fiske Kimball believes that it was altered .about 1845, and that the front portico with its acanthus leaf capitals dates from that period. He also suggests that other changes have been made inside the houses from time to time. He does not mention the rec- tangular window lintels which are strikingly different from any of the others used on the street during this first decade of the ,19th century, but similar to those on houses built around 1830 and thereafter. The house is set back from the street and occupies a large lot of land. East of the house in the yard there is a Federal period wooden chaise house which was partially burned several years ago, and beyond that there is a large garden. On the west side a row of cherry trees used to separate this house from #14. A trim, cast iron fence separates the residence from the sidewalk. #14 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. The matched board facade and broad pilasters of this two-story, wooden, gable-end-to-the-street house make it the outstanding example of the Greek Revival style on Chestnut Street. It was built in 1835 by John C. Lee of the Lee-Higginson Company. The entrance portico is on the east side at the angle formed by the L-shape of the house. Early pictures show a large, formal garden in the rear. The house is back from the street and has a wooden p5 cket fence along the sidewalk. An CHESTNUT STREET - NORTH SIDE (Sven numbers) continued old stable which abutted #2 Botts Court has been torn down within the last twenty years. #18 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The wooden, oblong, three-story, plus hip roof house at the corner of Botts Court was the home of Nathaniel Hawthorne for a short period around '1847. It was built for James Bott and called the "house on the marsh" because the area was swampy. Mr. W. H. Foster in a January 6, 18841letter recalled going through Botts Court in a punt in his youth. There is some question as to whether this or #28 is the oldest house on the street. Wiswall wrote that Mary Orne Picker- ing was born :here in 1805 . Pictures at the Essex Institute show the house with a fine entrance on the Botts Court side. Wiswall says the house evidently was a double house until 1888, when Augustus and Benjamin Fabens made it a single house. This is the only building which is at;:an angle to the street instead of parallel to it. The bay window over the portico was probably added in 1888, when the other changes were made. BOTTS COURT BEGINS. #20-22 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Built as a double house about 1836, this three-story house with a hip roof is characteristic of the Greek Revival style. It has a matched board facade and typical double portico with oblong over- door panels and narrow sidelights. It was built by the Reverend James Thompson who lived at #20 and Mr. William Rea rwho lived in the western side. The western end has been the r"tory • of the Grace Church since 1933 . HAMILTON STREET ENDS. #24 Chestnut Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story, pitch roof, gable-end-to-the-street house is 36. CHESTNUT STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) co4nued probably the smallest house on the street. It was built about 1833; in the Greek Revival style and has a recessed entrance behind columns which is characteristic of the period but unusual in Salem. Other Greek Revival features are the matched board facade, French windows and continued corniceywhich makes the gable look like a temple pedi- ment. Duncan Phillips in "Salem in the 90 ' s" (Essex Institute ffistorical Collections,,. 1953) wrote that it was the home of the widow of Captain PeeleIwho first imported Sumatra pepper to Salem. #26 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This large, three-story, plus a deep hip roof house was built in 1826-1827 by Humphrey Devereux, and later was the home of Charles Hoffman, a merchant in the Gold Coast trade and horticulturist of note. He had greenhouses on Hamilton Street and in the rear of the garden towards #28. The second story of the brick barn in the yard was designed for the storage of grapes and was an innovation- in its publication It cold storage facility* day; -an early government )6escribed IRs a model / The house is the only single Federal period house on the street which is not symmetri- cal because the entrance portico is slightly off-center. The rectangu- lar stone lintels above the windows are finely molded. The bay window above the rectangular entrance portico is a later addition. The house has a wooden beaded cornice similar to that at #' s 31, 33, and 35 . #28. Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Although this house is probably the oldest on the street (see also #18) according to Benjamin Browne and was built in 1800 "by Symmes who did not long remain in Salem, " it is described as Greek Revival because all the exterior facade trim dates from the 1840 ' s. The original owner was Ichabod Tucker. An interesting article printed in the Essex Institute Historical Collections in April 1938, written by a Mrs. Sturgis about 1900, tells the story of the house and how it was remodelled and enlarged in 1846. A picture which accompanies the 370 CHESTNUT STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued story shows a house on Warren Street and cap- w vwch tioN says it was originally part of #28 Chestnut Street and moved when that house was enlarged. Other authorities suggest the same version, but the story by Mrs . Sturgis clearly presents an account of enlarging the existing building, and appearances make her story seem credible. The three-story, plus hip roof; wooden, L-shaped house is set back from the street. It has a matched board facade, five-sided, paneled window lintels and a bold pedimented Doric entrance portico. #30 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL This large, wooden house, set far back from the street, is one of the newest houses on the street. It was built in 1896, by Mrs. Stephen G. Wheatlana in what was once part of the garden of the Cabot-Endicott-Low nouse on Essex Street. The architect used many of the idioms of the then so-called "Colonial" style including the Federal cornice, the fluted pilasters (reminiscent of the Pierce- Nichols house pilasters except that they are only two-stories high) , Palladian windows, leaded sidelights and a portico of generoms pro- portions. The flowering cherry and magnolia trees on either side of the entrance are worthy of mention; they are surely the most photographed trees in Salem. #34 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This fine, three-story house has an interesting history, and is undoubtedly connected with the then scandalous divorce of Elias Derby' s daughter Elizabeth from Nathaniel West. The house was moved to its present location in two sections from Oak Hill, Danvers (now Peabody)f about 1824, by Nathaniel West, and it is said that space was left between the two halves for a hallway and new 38. CHESTNUT STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued front entrance. The present full third story was also added then. Interestingly enough, the elegant Ionic portico was added to the house by Stephen W. Phillips who bought the property in 1913 . It was designed by William G. Rantoul, the Salem architect. Old pic- tures at the Essex Institute show that there was a double flight of stone steps approaching either side of the original entrance. Mr. Phillips also added the McIntire-type wooden fence and urns . The picture shows no other changes of any significance. Many Salem people have lived in this house because from 1836 until 1874, it was owned by Mrs . Malvina Tabitha Ward who ran a boarding house and school there. This is the most ornate wooden house of the Federal period on the street, thanks to its elegant cornice, quoined corners, Palla- dian window and detailed wooden trim above the windows. There is a two-story Federal period brick barn in the yard which has round-headed doorways. #38-40 Chestnut Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL This double brick house facing the street was built about 1845; by the Reverend James W. Thompson (who also built #22) and Nathaniel West, who certainly must have been related to the Nathaniel West who moved #34. Wiswall lists many well-known Salem families as having lived .there, including Joseph B. Andrews,who was mayor in 1854-1855 . An interesting feature o_U this three-story plus pitch roof house is the fact that an old photograph shows the doorway at #40 as it is today with a fanlight and sidelights, and that at #38 with a rectangular toplight and full-length sidelights, similar to those at #12 Chestnut Street which are presumed to have been installed 390 CHESTNUT STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued about 1845 . It is possible that they have both been changed to conform to the Federal style which is typical of the street, but was outmoded when this building was erected. The bay window on #40 is surely a later change. The facade has six bays, the two first-floor windows at either end being French. The plain stone window lintels are rectangular. The paired, parapeted end chimneys and brick,dentil cornice provide upper story interest. #42 Chestnut Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. Miss Maria Ropes built this house in 1858, and it was designed by Foster and Emmerton in the Italianate style. Wiswall writes that a small lane ran from Chestnut to Essex Street at about this location; it was known as Mullet ' s Court after George Mullet, the blind town crier who lived in a house on the court. The small; wooden house has two stories plus a pitch roof and is gable end to the street. It is back from and above the street level. The entrance portico with its typical Italianate square columns is at one side of the facade, balanced by a double French window opposite it. Other Italianate details are the brackets under the eaves, the window cornices and the paired round-headed window in the gable. 4 #44-46 Chestnut Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. James B. Curwen and William G. Webb built this double, wooden house about 1870, according to Wiswall, who goes on to say: "They drew lots for their houses and Mr--., .Webb took the western half and Curwen the eastern. " This house is also in the Italianate style which was popular in 1870 , and has a characteristic scoop Mansard roof, paired brackets under the eaves and rusticated facade. The matching entrance: 40• r CHESTNUT STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued porticos with ornate columns are side by side in the center of the facade. #48 Chestnut Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. The appearance of this pre-Federal style house on a street laid out in 1796, is explained by the fact that it was copied from the Derby House on Derby Street in 1909, for Miss Carollne Emmerton. According to Archer, William G. Rantoul was the architect. Miss Emmerton promptly sold it to Francis Seamans who became its first resident. The molded bricks at the top of the water table and around the eaves, plus the construction of the segmental arches must have made this a very special task even in 1909. The exterior is a careful reproduction with the exception of the windows which appear to be narrower than the originals . 41• I'. ESSEX STREET--From North Street to South Pine Street Essex Street was the main way to the pastures and a brick kiln in the western part of town in the very early days of Salem. It is said that the Indians had a path along its course before Salem was settled; or, if you prefer, you can read that its course .at its western end was determined by the rear of the grants of land along the North River. The western end was known as a lane in the earliest days, the Great Street leading through the town in 1713, the main street in 1722, the Queen ' s Highway in 1711, and Essex Street by 1796. At the western end of the street was the northern gate to the pastures. The area at the corner of Boston and Essex Streets was called "Buffum' s Corner, " after the Buffum family who lived there. i A town pump and oyster stand stood at the intersection of Summer, Essex, and North Streets in days of old. r ESSEX STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) -- _From North Street through #401 Essex Street #311 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. i This smalltwo-storyybrick house with its slated Mansard roof was built by John Kinsman, who also built #309 which was recently demolished. Architectural details include its irregular shape, brownstone lintels and brick cornice. #313 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This square; three-story'wooden house has a hip roof and small ell on the east side. At the edge of the roof there is a decorative cast iron roof rail. The entrance and bay window above are not original. The house is said to have been built about 1786 and sold in 1805 to John Ropes. Charles W. Upham, mayor, minister and author of books on witch- craft, lived here with his wife, who was the sister of Oliver Wendell Holmes. 42. i ESSEX STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued #315-317 Essex Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story wooden house with its hip roof was erected after 1885 on the site of the old Shattuck house which was also the home of Captain Jonathan Carnes in the early 1800 ' s. It was Captain Carnes who discovered that pepper grew wild on the coast of Sumatra and returned with a cargo that brought a 700 p+nt profit! #319 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL This small, two-story, wooden, 'end-to-the-street, pitch roof building has been a combination shop and home for many years. Oliver Thayer, writing in 1885, described a building in this location where a Mrs. Pike kept a variety shop. Her family was poor during the War of 1812 and when her married son' was asked how he was making out, he replied, "Pretty well; I feed the children on salt fish and all the water they can drink. " Whether this is the same building is unknown. CAMBRIDGE STREET BEGINS #329 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. The American Legion has had its quarters in this building since 1921, when they bought it from Frank Balch, who had owned it since 1881. The building, begun in 1871 by James Putnam, is an exeellent example of the architecture of its period. It is solid and ornate, two stories high with a Mansard roof. The front portico is supported by eight square columns, two of which are attached, and the lintels over the windows have heavy pediments. An ornate, rounded facade gable and decorated cornice complete the ornamentation. 43. ESSEX STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued #331-333 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. The Curwin-Gillis house is another excellent example of the archi- tecture of this period which reflects the revival of interest in the Renaissance period. The three-story.1 wooden building is simpler than #329, yet it has many architectural details: a rusticated facade, quoined corners, a large, centraldoubleportico supported by Corinthian columns and topped by a balustrade, and four varieties of window treatments used in a ,balanced fashion. This occupies the site of the Maule house. #335 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL . This two-story, gambrel roof. house is set back from and has its gable end to the street. It has a simple, pedimented, enclosed entrance porch. According to Oliver Thayer ' s recollections , it contained a tin-plate workshop around 1800. Later it was the home of Captain Thomas Holmes, and even later of Frank Cousins, an early and enthusiastic photographer of Salem architecture, whose pictures are invaluable to researchers. #337 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. In 1906 the Salem Athenaeum moved from its quarters in Plummer Hall (Essex Institute) on lower Essex Street to this new building. Based on "Homewood, " a Baltimore, Maryland, residence (circa 1804) , it is plus a brick, one-story,/hip-roof building with a large entrance portico up a broad flight of steps. The portico extends up to the eaves and is supported by six columns and topped by a carved pediment. One of the buildings formerly on this site seems to have been the Captain Mi*#ord House)which is now on Bott ' s Court . south of the Athenaeum. 44, ESSEX STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued #343 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The large square Icentral chimney dominates this small, two-story, gambrel roofed wooden house facing Bott' s Court. It has a simple: pilastered entrance, a gambrel roof ell on the south and is said to have belonged to the Bott ' s family. Bott ' s Court Ends #345 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. The end of this two-story, wooden, gambrel roof house is on Essex Street. There is an ell in the rear and Georgian dormer windows; the entrance is from the side of a small front piazza. It is said to have been built about 1900 by Daniel Low. #347 Essex Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: LATE 19TH CENTURY• The facade of this two-storyywooden house, which is very near to both its neighbors, is nearly hidden behind a large roof over the entrance and a two-story slated bay window. It is architecturally intact. HAMILTON STREET BEGINS #355 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. Na355 is a large and solid three-storyywooden house with a hip roof. It has many typical features of this period including quoined corners, a rusticated facade, and heavy trim about the windows. #357 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOR: COLONIAL REVIVAL (Fourth Quarter) This two-story Iwooden house with its ►mansard roof has much carved trim which is reminiscent of the Federal period. The motifs include medallions, wreathes, festoons and swags as well as a balustrade above the portico, which is supported by Corinthian columns, all popular during the Colonial Revival period. 45• ESSEX STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued #359 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is a typical three-story, wooden, hip- roof house of the re- Federal period. The front portico is supported by Ionic columns and there is a fanlight over the front door. On the eastern side there is a simple pedimented and pilastered entrance. According to Jonathan Tucker,writing in 1876, it housed William Lander and Robert Emery, master mariners during the early 1800 ' s, and Oliver Thayer records that Captain Samuel Endicott occupied it as early as 1815 and that it was still in his family in 1885 . A sign on the house givesthe date 1789- #361 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, wooden, hip- roof house is more delicate than its neighbor to the east and hence appears to be of the Federal period. On the street there is a simple pilastered entrance',and on the east there is an enclosed porch with fluted columns and a dentil cornice. A period stable and summer house beyond the large garden complete the picture. Thayer writes that the house was there by 1804, the home of Michael Webb, grocer; later it became the home of Captain Benjamin Creamer and remained in his family until after 1885 . Recent research indicates that the house was built in 1800 by Nicholas Crosby. #365 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is probably the finest example of an ambitious house of the mid- eighteenth century remaining in Salem. It was built about 1748 by Joseph Cabot; and some books say that it was designed by an English architect. For many years it was the home of the Honorable William C. Endicott, a Justice of the Massachusetts Supreme Court and Secretary 46• ESSEX STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued Right of England of War under President Cleveland. The/Honorable Joseph Chamberlain,' visited here and married Endicott ' s daughter. The house is a large two-story, gambrel roofed building, set back from the street. It has pre-Federal window caps, modillion blocks under the eaves and balanced triangular and rounded pediments over its five dormer windows. The corners of the building are trimmed with quoins. The details of the front door are later modifications. In the yard there is a lean-to garage, carefully designed to go with the house but by no means of that period. In the yard to the west was formerly the Jeffrey Lang house. #373 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Th® rsable -end to -the street and recessed entrance to one side marks this house as typical of the simple Greek Revival style. It is a two- story wooden house with a pitch roof, matched board facade and ell in the rear. According to Thayer, it was built by Mrs. John Bertram on the site of the older Holmes house. #377 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. two-story wooden house with Mansard roofpas a facade of matched board with a bowed bay window on either side of the square open porch entrance. It is said to be an old house completely remodeled. #385 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: ENGLISH GOTHIC. Grace Church, a stone building in 'the English Gothic style, was built in 1926. According to the Visitor' s Guide to Salem, the pulpit was given in memory of Captain John Bertram and is made of oak from the Isle of Jersey, where he was born. #385 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The Grace Church Parish House is a typical three-story, hip roof building of the Federal period. It has brick ends and was built prior to 1806, according to the Gazette, February 4, 1806. It was 47. ESSEX STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued owned at that time by Ebenezer Smith who had a bakery in the rear. According to Oliver Thayer, there was also a "roadway passing to Chestnut Street, " behind the house. Chamberlainyin "Salem In Four believes this house was built about 1810 by John Cabot; however, these other sources of contemporary material seem more accurate. The treatment of the main entrance is very characteristic of the early Federal style. #387 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: MID-19TH CENTURY. x.387 is a large- two-story'wooden house with a dormered hip roof, rusticated facade, and quoined corners. Over the front portico there is a large bay with five windows; brackets are used to ornament the area under the eaves. #389 Essex Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story, wooden house with Mansard roof has heavy cut-out pediments over the windows and a bay window above the front portico, . which has a slate roof. FLINT STREET CROSSES #391 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This ell-shaped, two-story brick building has a pitch roof and plain stone lintels. The eastern end,which is parallel with Flint Street, was built in 1826 by Stephen Fogg, successor to John Kimball and John N. Sleeper, who had used an earlier building on the site for their business. Oliver Thayer in 1885 wrote that they "did a large business for that time in West India and other foreign goods. I well recollect the crowds of teams from New Hampshire and Vermont, with country produce, which came there for the exchange of commodities. " Eaton ' s Drug Store has occupied the store since 1947, and the gold leaf apothecary ' s mortar and pestle attached to the corner of the building is an attractive feature of the area. The 48. ESSEX STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued attached house of the same style, which fronts on Essex Street, was built in 1840 by Stephen Fogg. #393 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The Lindall-Barnard-Andrews house built during the 1740 ' s by Judge Lindall, is the second excellent example of the large gambrel' roof house of this period on Essex Street. The exterior has remained more or less intact; the Pre-Federal window caps are still on the sides of the building, but have been replaced on the facade; the pedimented front entrance has remained. Early photos show a handsome fence which is gone now. This was the home of the Reverend Thomas Barnard, pastor of the North Church, who played an important role in "Leslie ' s Retreat" in 1775 (See North Street) . It was later the home for many years of John H. Andrews, Esq. , and his son, Captain John P. Andrews. #395 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, wooden, end-to-the-street, hip -roof house appears to be of the Federal period, but a former owner believes that it was initially built in 1722 by a Captain Rose and mentions also unusual saucer tiles around the fireplace. The side entrance is through an enclosed pilastered porch, on which a later bay window rests. The ell to the south is not parallel to the main house. During the early 1800 ' s this was the home of E. Austin, cabinetmaker. #397 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The house on the corner of South Pine Street was built around 1806 by Jabez Smith, a builder, who is also responsible for some of the houses on Chestnut Street, according to Thayer. It was later the 490 ESSEX STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued home of Captain James Silver. The three-story, hip roof wooden building was evidently ell-shaped before additions were made to the rear. It is belted, and has applied boards between the third-story windows and the cornice, which are both characteristic of many Salem houses of this period. The cornice is trimmed with modillion blocks and there are five chimneys. This house is architecturally intact, although Victorian roofs and brackets have been superimposed over both entrances with a bay window over the South Pine Street entrance. The interior is very fine and contains a circular staircase. SOUTH PINE STREET CROSSES #401 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Built by Captain Nathaniel Osgood during the latter part of the Federal period, this three-storyybrick building is typical of its time. The exterior remains unaltered except for remodelling of the main entrance and the addition of a Victorian roof over the 'side door. 50'• ESSEX STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) --From North Street to North Pine St. #310 Essex Street. RATING: ONE, PERIOD: 17TH CENTURY. The Witch House has surveyed the Salem scene for three hundred years, more or less. Restored after World War II, it now has all the characteristics of a grand house of the period, including the overhang, pendant drops, facade gables, and cluster column chimney (which is original) . Of interest to the student of architecture is the contract made between Jonathan Corwin and Daniel Andrews in 1674- 1675 to enlarge and refinish the house, which had belonged to Richard Davenport, later commander of the fort at Castle Island in Boston Harbor. The house has always been called the Witch House; it was the home of one of the judges of the witch trials and is thought to have been the site of some of the preliminary hearings . It is open to the public and maintained by the Salem Park Department. # 312 Essex Street. RATING: ONE, PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The Red Cross building is a fine example of a relatively unchanged mid-eighteenth century building. It has two stories plus a gambrel roof with three pedimented dormer windows and a fine cornice. The recessed entrance is framed by trim under the pilasters and is surmounted by a pediment of the period. There is a small ell, in the rear. It is said that Benjamin Thompson, later Count Rumford, who invented the Rumford oven and became an eminent scientist, lived here when he worked as an apprentice for Mr. Appleton in 1766 . It is known as the Lindall-Gibbs House. #316 Essex Street. RATING: ONE PERIOD: GOTHIC. The present First Church was built by and for the North Church in 1835-1836; they have now re pnited under the name of the First Church. The building, set back from the street behind an iron 51. . 1 ESSEX STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued picket fence, was designed by Gridley J. F. Bryant, but the choice of the English Gothic style and design is said to have been the result of Francis Peabody' s great interest in it. The Visitor ' s construction of Guide to Salem also says that he supervised/the building, which is of Quincy granite. It has three bays, the central projecting one being twice as high as those on either side. Each bay has an elongated pointed window with diamond panes. In the rear there is a 20th century addition. The garden on the east side was formerly that of the Bowditch House before it was moved and contains large old species of rhododendrons and azaleas. #318 Essex Street. RATING: ONE- PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The Ropes'Mansion was built in 1719 directly on the street but later was moved back to its present location. It is a typical large, two- story, wooden, gambrel roof building with a cornice trimmed with modillions. The recessed pedimented doorway with Ionic columns on either side is of a later period. It remained in the Ropes family from 1768 until 1907 when it was endowed and left to be open to the public. A Revolutionary mob is said to have raged outside the house in 1774 because Judge Ropes was a Tory. The fence in front of the house is a fine copy of the Federal type with carved urns atop the pilastered posts . The mansion is famous for its spacious old-fashioned garden. #328 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This large. square, brick, three-story house with a hip roof is set back from the street. Despite some later remodeling of the main entrance and Palladian• window above and the addition of a porte-cochere on the west side, it is very much a Federal period building. There 52• ESSEX STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued are four very tall chimneys, stone window lintels with the Greek key motif, a columned portico and very fine brass door knocker. The fence in front of the house is similar to that at the Ropes Mansion with very handsome posts. The carriage house in the rear is one of the finest in Salem with three entrances trimmed with rusticated blocks, small round windows at the second story level, a balustrade on the roof, and arched dormer windows on the side. This house was at one time the home of Dr. George B. Loring, President of the Massachusetts Senate, member of Congrees, Commissioner of Agriculture under Presidents Garfield and Arthur, and minister to Portugal under President Harrison. He entertained President Franklin Pierce in this house. #330 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. plus pitch roof This two-story, /wooden, gable-end-to-the-street building has all the earmarks of the Greek Revival style with its entablature, pilaster strips, recessed entrance and pointed molded window lintels. There are two additions in the rear. #336 Essex Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is a two-story, pitch roof . , wooden house with its front entrance in the gable end on the street. A projecting portion in the rear makes it ell-shaped. #342 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This building seems to be in the late Greek Revival style; facing the street, its recessed front entrance is raised and has a wide oblong light above. Probably the bay window and the roof over the door were later additions . The facade is of matched boards. According to Oliver Thayer, Bott's Court continued north some 200 feet or so with a number of mechanics ' shops on the site of this house and that of #336 . 533• ESSEX STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued #346 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. (siding) This three-story wooden/house with a hip roof is Federal in shape, although the trim is Greek Revival, and the shape and size of the chimney appear to be of the pre-Federal type. It is likely that the original house is pre-Federal, was enlarged during the Federal period, and the exterior trim applied later during the Greek Revival period. The entrances on Essex Street and Beckford Street are both Greek Revival in style, as : , are the pointed molded window lintels. BECKFORD STREET BEGINS There was once a town pump on Essex Street at the intersection with Beckford Street. #348 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. plus This two-story,/)Hansard roof wooden house has a matched board facade and quoined corners. It is back from and above the street and is decorated by brackets under the eaves in a typical style of the period. Formerly, there was a 17th century house here, built by Mr. Kitchen, which was torn down about 1850. Behind it there was a famous garden which was decorated with freestone carved capitals which came from the Marston house formerly on the east corner of Crombie and Essex Streets. Where they are now is unknown. #350 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is an excellent example of one of the styles of the Third Quarter. ' It is a very large double house, three stories high, with a matched board facade and a bow on either side of the front entrance. 54• I ESSEX STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued #354-356 Essex Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a two-story, wooden double house with an entrance on either side. It is no longer symmetrical as a result of the addition of a bay window and probable alterations in the entrance areas. #358 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is an interesting mid-eighteenth century building because looking at it raises as many questions as it answers. It consists of a two-story gambrel roof building facing the street with a gambrel roof, . ell on either end running towards the rear of the lot. The main chimney of the central building is very large and oblong in shape, which indicates that it must date from the first half of the 18th century. The pedi- ments over the windows are a recent and very skillful addition, if the evidence of an old photograph is to be believed. The trim on the dormer windows at the western end match those on #365 Essex Street across the street. The house is known as the Clark Morgan House; according to accounts by Thayer and Tucker, the Widow Clark lived in the western end during the early 1800 ' s and Captains John and Jonathan Shillabe5 in the eastern end. #360 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: . THIRD QUARTER. This large two-story wooden house with its Mansard roof is set back from and above the street; it has quoined corners and bows on either side of the front door. 55. ESSEX STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued #362 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL, The owner believes this house was built around 1730, and some interior evidence bears this out; e.g. , bricks in the exterior walls, two-panel (siding) doors and foliate hinges. It is a two-story, wooden,/end-to-the-street gambrel roof house with a long Bill in the rear. Several of the window-cap moldings are of the pre-Federal style, but there have been modifications around the entrance where a two-story porch appears to have been added. A roof balustrade shown in old photos is no longer there. According to Oliver Thayer this was the home of John Prince, Esq. around 1800. #364 Essex Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. plus hip roof The front portico of this three-story,,Nooden house has been altered with the addition of a bay window above it and brackets. The side entrance is Greek Revival in feeling. According to Tucker it was the home of Captain Timothy Ropes about 1800. MONROE STREET BEGINS #370 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: MID-19TH CENTURY. The Public Library was built as a residence by Captain John Bertram in 1855 and designed by Joseph C. Foster. His heirs gave it to the city for a library in 1887, after which it was enlarged. It is a three- story brick building with a hip roof and freestone trim, set back from and higher than the street. A large circular iron fountain cools the air in summer in the large yard to the west?which is enclosed with a cast iron fence. The so-called "Bertram elm" which used to be in the yard was 16� feet in circumference. 56. ESSEX STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued #374 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. At one time the home of Captain Nehemiah Buffington, this large two-story, gambrel roof wooden house facing Essex Street is certainly pre-Federal in style and shape, but no book gives a definite date for it. The f1ront portico is of the Greek Revival style with Doric columns. The large barn in the yard is also Greek Revival. #376 Essex Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This is a two-story.11 wooden house with a balustraded hip roof, large circular front portico and bows on either side. The garden behind this house formerly extended to Federal Street; here Edward Rogers experimented in grape hybridization. The building is on th6 site of a house designed by McIntire for Joseph Sprague , whose son, Joseph Sprague , Jr. , lived in #380 Essex Street and whose son-in-law Dr. Stearns lived in #384• The house was demolished about 1902, when the present one was built. The wooden stable in the yard was not replaced and is in the Federal style. It has two stories plus a hip roof•, over what was originally ,a central entrance there is a semicircular keystoned arch. #380 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Samuel McIntire designed this three-story-brick house with its hip roof about 1807 for Joseph Sprague, Jr. The original house was probably square with a service ell in the rear; several other ells have since been added. The architectural details of this house are very fine and give it a sense of lightness despite its bulk. They include the two balustrades, tall slender chimneys, cornice and front portico. In the yard there is a period stable, which Fiske Kimball says has had some remodeling. . Mr. Sprague 's father lived in the house east of his, and Dr. . Stearns ,who married a Sprague girl, lived in the house on the west. 57. ESSEX STREET NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued #384 Essex Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. Fiske Kimball gives no date for this large . pitch roof, three-story,.; wooden house which faces Essex Street, but Samuel Chamberlain writes that it was built by Joseph Dean in 1706 and remodeled at a later date. Kimball does suggest that McIntire did the design for the handsome Doric portico with its flanking pilasters, columns and top pediment. There is a large simple barn in the yard. The building was in the Dean family for many years, after which it belonged to the (See #s 376 & 380 Essex Street. ) Spragues%and their descendents, the Stearns, for a century or so. According to Oliver Thayer, -Dry Stearns was a prime mover in building the turnpike to Boston (Highland Avenue) "and was bound to have it when finished, so level and straight as to take an early look from Salem into Boston market. " FLINT STREET CROSSES #386 Essex Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. #386 is a large two-story, slated Mansard roof house of the Italianate style. It has a large bay window over a large front portico. It was the home of Mr. Goldthwaite; Thayer, writing in 1885, called it "the new house on the corner. " #388-390 Essex Street. RATING: THREE, PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This house appears to be Colonial Revival. It is an end-to-the- street, gambrel roof house. It is wooden and has a two story bowed bay window on the street end. According to Thayer who called it a "new house" in 1885, it was built by William Ives. #392 Essex Street. •RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. Similar in scale to its neighbors, this is a large, three-story wooden building of the Italianate style with brackets and ornate window trim. It has a characteristic bay window over a large front portico. 58. ESSEX STREET, NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued #396 Essex Street. RATING: THREE, PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER This building like its neighbors to. the east was built during the latter part of the nineteenth century and is on a big scale. It is a two-storyg wooden building with a hip roof, rusticated facade and varied pediments and treatment above the windows. It has ' a characteristic bay window above a large front portico. #396A Essex Street. THE FRIENDS 'CEMETERY This cemetery was in the yard of the Friends ' Meeting House from 1718 for 100' Yzars until they moved to a building, since burned, at the west corner of South Pine and Warren Streets. No account of its history appears to have been. written. #398 Essex Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This is a two-story, wooden, pitch roof building with a slated bay window and fairly Victorian simple entrance facing Essex Street. A woman who lives there said that she had heard that the rear ell was once part of the Friends ' Meeting House, which was on the site of this building, according to Thayer. if so, it has been extensively remodeled. However, skived clapboards on the west side indicate that it is older charming than it appears to be. In the rear there is -Y small pitch roof chais�house of the Federal period. NORTH PINE ENDS #400 Essex Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This two-storyjwooden house with a hip roof was probably built after the Fire in 1914, but in a style designed to be compatible with its earlier neighbors. 59• FEDERAL STREET - Residents of Federal Street will be interested to read that Bentley wrote in 1790 that the town resolved "to petition for a Lottery to cleanse the Channels of the Harbour, and ,North River. " A month later he reported that "The Town Lotter proposed meets with no encouragement Y P P g at the General Court. The Committee of the House rather treated it as whimsical. " Felt ' s was records that on March 11, 1766, there was a "Vote to have what is now called Federal Street laid out; " Prior to that time there had been an eight foot public way along the south bank of the North River; discussion about closing this way and opening a new street was evidently heated, and when it was settled amicably in 1766, the street was called Federal Street to indicate the end of the disagreement. The authors of Old Naumkeag believed that this western end of Federal Street was laid out through the "last remaining part of the old forest." It was sometimes called the New Street, the Back Street, or the new North Street in the beginning. Federal Street from North to Washington Street was formerly called Marlborough Street and was laid out in 1793 , according to Bentley who noted that the "Town opened road back of the Tabernacle. " The eastern- most portion was called County Street until 1853, when the entire length of the street was united under the name of Federal Street. It is hard to realize that when Federal Street was laid out, the North River was called the "Blue Danube" and that there were the normal waterfront activities taking place on its banks which were called "Paradise. " Bentley wrote in 1807: that "Mr. Jos. Ward says his father formerly had a fish yard at the entrance of Federal Street near Town Bridge. Three other fish flakes were near him. " The brick building which was on the northwest corner of Federal and North Streets prior to the building of the overpass was evidently the distillery of Joseph Sprague 7where the Danvers Minute Men assembled 60. FEDERAL STREET the day of Leslie ' s Retreat. (See North Street. ) The lot lines on the north side of the street run diagonally from the street and evidently reflect the original course of the North River. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even Numbers #76-192) J #76 Federal Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house has the cross-gables, bay windows and irregularly shaped form that were popular features during the latter part of the 19th century. j #78 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus hip roof, wooden house is very simple with little exterior trim. .The main entrance in the yard is through an enclosed pedimented porch. Y #80 Federal Street RATIN.G: . ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The so-called Peirce Nichols House is one of the most important buildings in Salem because it shows the contrast between the Pre-Federal' and Federal styles in its interior. The house, the first which SamuelMcIntireis known to have designed, was built for Jerethmiel Peirce in 1782. Peirce, a partner in the shipping firm of Peirce and Waite, had a counting house behind the house and gardens which sloped down to the North River where his ships used to tie up. Later Peirce suffered financial reverses and was forced to sell his house; his friends, the Johonnots, bought it and Peirce 's willed it to grandchildren, the Nichols, when they died. It remained in the Nichol$ family until 1917, when the Essex Institute bought it. It is open to the public at specified times . The house is wooden, three stories highywith a balustraded hip roof, and is anchored to the ground by the large fluted pilasters at the corners. The main entrance is through a columned pedimented portico. The similar side entrance in the yard is different in that the pediment tops an . enclosed porch with fine classical ornamentation. The boldly executed 61. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued) exterior trim gives the house the appearance of importance, substance and tasteful elegance. Some twenty years after the house was built, McIntire was called in to do the eastern parlor (prior to Sally Peirce ' s wedding to George Nichols) in the delicate, light, but ornate, new style now called Federal. Charles Bulfinch of Boston had seen examples of the new archi- tecture popularized in England by the Adam brothers during a trip to England: and had designed several buildings in Boston in the style ,. McIntire went to see several of these new houses and made sketches of them. There is a wealth of written material about this house. #82 Federal Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. No. 82 Federal Street is far back from the street and is a typical two- story plus pitch roof wooden house of this period. It has cross gables and is asymmetrical in shape. The house is probably on land formerly occupied by the William and Charles Phelps Company, sash and- blind factory. #84 Federal Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. Like #82 Federal Street in style, this two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house was probably built at about the same time on part of the land where the above-mentioned factory was. #86 Federal Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. The exterior trim on this two-story plus pitch roof house seems to date from the Third Quarter. There are paired brackets under the eaves and Victorian consoles support the roof over the doorway and bay window above. The basic form of the house is very like many of those on the street which date from the Pre-Fcderal period, and it is possible that this house was remodeled during the Third Quarter. #88 Federal Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof house has a large chimney, narrow clap- boards and a pilastered entrance at the east end of the facade with two windows beyond. The cornice is typical of the Pre-Federal period; there 62. r FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued are several ells in the rear of the house. #90 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large wooden house is directly on Federal Street% It has two stories plus a pitch roof and is much ornamented with brackets, fans, cut-out stars, bay windows and facade gables. It is in the Italianate style. #92 Federal Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. Many changes have been made in •this two-story, plus pitch roof house facing Federal Street. Originally it was a simple building like many of its neighbors, but during various remodelings the entrance has had Victorian consoles and an overhead roof added. .and the front slope of the roof has had a long, five window dormer addition added. The Beverly jog at the east end has Greek Revival .trim around its entrance. One rem- nant of the original period is the Pre-Federal window caps above the first floor windows on the facade of the house. #94 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is another in a group of more or less similar two-story, plus pitch roof, wooden houses which face Federal Street. It has a large Pre-Federal chimney and a typical cornice. The entrance, which is not centered, has simple pilastered trim. There is a lean-to ell in the yard. #96 Federal Street Recently the two-story, plus gambrel roof, wooden house in the yard of #94 Federal Street was demolished. Old Salem Gardens mentions #96 as having had a lovely garden owned by the Agge family. #98-100 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL This house is of interest because half of it has a gambrel roof and half)a pitch roof. Evidently when it was enlarged many years ago, appearancd counted for less than function. It was once a half-house, 63. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued with an entrance at one end, but now the entrance is more or less centered on the facade; Victorian trim has been superimposed on the once simple doorway. The central chimney is very large and characteristic of the Fre-Federal period. #102 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Unlike its neighbors, this two-story, plus pitch roof, wooden house is gable end to the street with the entrance in the east yard. This undoubtedly allowed room for the five-bay facade. The house has a nice Federal. period door which is now sheltered by the added overhead roof supported by Vic- torian consoles . There are several small additions in the rear of the house. #104 FederalStreet RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This wooden house has a five-bay facade including a central entrance and is directly on the street. It has two stories and a hip roof with Federal period chimneys. The east end of the building has a- brick wall, perhaps as a protection against fire. The recessed door appears to have been altered, but the trim around it including the bead and reel motif on the cornice .is probably original. #106 Federal Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large wooden house is a Colonial Revival period, two—story plus and gambrel roof building. There are bay windows, cross gables,/a dentil cornice, all of which are representative of this style. Charles Archer writing for the Salem Evening News in 1922, tells of an old house which was previously on this site. In it the Chandler family lived and ran a store which was the local gathering place for the community and the center of news and gossip. The same Chandler family built the present grocery store diagonally across the street. BECKFORD STREET crosses. 64. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued The article mentioned above by Charles Archer relates that there was great rejoicing in Salem when Abraham Lincoln was elected. To cele- brate, the great elm (now gone) in the small open square formed by the junction of Federal, Beckford and Andover Streets was "festooned with red, white and blue lanterns clear to the top branch. ThaId tree in a blaze of glory lit up the whole square. " / #108 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. It is difficult to recognize this L-shaped, three-story plus hip roof, wooden house as being of the Pre-Federal period because of later altera- tions. It is directly on the street and has a five-bay facade with a recessed central entrance; the window caps above the windows are typical of the pre-Federal period. There are several large additions at the rear of the house. Archer ' s story tells that this was the home of Dr. William Williams and later of Father Thomas Shahan, pastor of St. . James Church. "It was a three-story square house with low underpinning, its side flush with the street and front door opening directly upon the sidewalk having but a single doorstep. " Later David Moore of the Salem Gaslight Company bought the house, raised it up and entirely rebuilt it. In the garden beside the house there used to be mulberry trees; Archer wrote: "Tradition had it that these mulberry trees came with the advent of the silk worms which lived upon Mulberry leaves. " #114 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This three-story, wooden house differs from the others between Bleckford and Monroe Street because it has a pitch instead of a hip roof. The five- bay facade is directly on the street and has had Italianate brackets added above the windows . The Victorian trim Iwhich was added to the entrance at the same time, has recently been replaced with a pediment which is more appropriate to the original style of the house. The front door and transom above appear to be original. 65. i.. w FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) contir%J Archer evidently referring to this house recalled that it was the home of Dr. George Farrington, a Salem druggist, who had a lightning rod installed, which had not yet been grounded when a violent storm struck and nearly killed him. His first words on coming to were, "Take that damned thing off my house. " The 1902 Visitors Guide to Salem says that Rufus Choate lived in this house at one time. The present owner of the house says that an old and long-time resident, Mrs. Charles Carroll, told him that the Sanderson brothers built this and several of the other houses in this immediate area. #116-118 Federal Street RATING: ONE: PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof house has kept its original style intact. The boldly pedimented, pilastered central entrance on the five-bay facade has a four-light transom over the door, a typical feature of the Pre-Federal period. #120-122 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE=FEDERAL. Built as a two-family house by and for Jacob and Elijah Sanderson in 1783 (See Salem Evening News 1966) , this three-story plus hip roof building has two front entrances, one in each side yard. The house still has Pre-Federal period molded window caps and sills; the latter are not seen frequently. The eastern half of the house was modified when Victorian trim and bay windows were added, but the west side remains as it was with a pedimented, pilastered entrance. Archer says that Josiah. Hayward, a stone mason, lived at #120 where his daughter kept a private school and that Deacon John Punchard and his daughter Keziah lived in the other half of the house. The Sanderson brothers, who built the house, originally came from Lexington; Elijah is saidto have followed a British officer to Lincoln where he was captured and kept prisoner in the same field with Paul on the eve of April 169 177$, Revere/ Not long after this incident, the two brothers came to Salem 66. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued and carried on an extensive venture cabinet trade, shipping fine Salem- made furniture wherever Salem vessels sailed. LYNN STREET crosses . #124 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This square, three-story, wooden house has a hip roof and typical five- bay facade. The Greek Revival doorway is a later innovation. The house has been enlarged by the addition of a small ell in the rear and a larger addition in the west yard. According to Waters, writing in the Essex Institute Historical Collections in 1879, this land was owned by John Ropestwho left it to his son Jonathan when he died in 1754. Jonathan built this house, which he in turn left to his only grandchild, Jonathan Waldo, Jr. Waldo was a master of many trades according to B. F. Browne9who wrote that he was an apothecary, Major of Militia and town officer, , as well . as the man under whose direction Fort Pickering was repaired in 1799. Waldo ' s father who had come to Salem from Newfoundland "in getting over a fence, fell into a well, broke his skull and died soon, " when his son was eight years old. Later this was the home of Captain Thomas Perkins, master and merchant. #126 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This small two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden house is tucked in between its neighbors on either side. It is close to the ground and has three windows on its long side overlooking Federal Street; its entrance now is in a Beverly jog at the western side of the house. There are several rear ells. #1262 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house has its gable end on the street. It is Italianate in style and has an entrance trimmed with paired brackets on the gable end as well as a two-story bay which was a 67. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued popular feature of Italianate style. #128-130 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This large, wooden, three-story plus hip roof; double house is directly at the head of Monroe Street. It has a reeded pilaster at each corner of the facade and quoined corners at the rear. The double portico is in the middle of the facade. According to Fiske Kimball it was built in 1800-1801 for Ebenezer Shillaber; he believes the interior carving dates from after 1811, and is the work of Samuel Field McIntire, who may have designed it himself, or done the work under the direction of another Salem builder, David Lord. Kimball says the house has been altered from time to time and some interior trim removed. Archer writing his recollections says that #128 was the home of Benjamin Shreve and #130JOthat of Judge Jonathan C. Perkins. When Archer was young the Shreves had a long iron cannon stuck upright in the ground in front of the house and it was always whitewashed; children attempting to jump over it invariably got whitewash on their clothes.and scoldings when they reached home. #134 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, wooden building faces Carpenter Street, and the main entrance is in an enclosed, pedimented porch which juts out into the sidewalk. A carved wreath on the pediment is unusual. The building is oblong and has a projecting 'ell at its northernnend. The bay window and small window at the first-floor level are later additions. The house was built by Benjamin Blanchard in 1800, sold to the Archers in 1860, and in 1900 to J. Foster Smith, whose son, Philip, an architect, installed interior trim from the Enoch Dow house formerly on Lafayette Street. The Dow House was demolished in 1914: Fiske Kimball attributed it to Samuel McIntire. CARPENTER STREET crosses. 68. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) #136 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house is back from and gable end to the street. Two of its handsome features are the cast iron fence on Federal Street and the iron railing at the base of the full- length first floor Wyatt windows. According to Henry K. Oliver (Essex Institute Historical Collection, 1946)7 it was built about 1830-32 by Miss Priscilla Gould who later married Colonel J. G. Sprague. , The house became the property of Benjamin Wheatland and was given as a parsonage to the South Church by John Bertram. The Reverend G. D. Wildes, who lived here at one time, raised a Field Hospital Corps of 60, volunteers from this area which became the first ambulance corps in the United States Army. This was during the Civil War. #138 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The Assembly House, like the Peirce Nichols House, was built- in 1782, but it was owned by a group of twenty proprietors and was to serve as a social gathering place. Washington was entertained here on October 29, 1789, and Lafayette in 1784. In 1796, the proprietors sold the property to one of their group, Jonathan Waldo, who had Samuel McIntire convert the building into a dwelling and redesign the facade. Then he sold the house to Samuel Putnam, a prominent lawyer and member of the Massachusetts Supreme Judicial Court. The matched-board facade of the two-story plus hip roof, wooden house is distinguished by a belt at the second floor level, four pairs of fluted Ionic Pilasters separating the second story windows and a facade gable ornamented by a fanlight. The portico - up a flight of steps is trimmed with handsome grape carving, which Fiske Kimball believed was added by the house ' s second occupant, Benjamin Chamberlain, between 1833 , and 1856. A delicate iron fence separates the house from the street. 69. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued There is a large, two-story plus pitch roof, wooden carriage house set well back from the street in the yard to the west of the house. It has three double doors and, like the house, is divided into three bays with a shallow,#projecting central section topped by a facade gable which copies in a very simple form the facade of the house. #140 Federal Street RATING ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Like the other houses on the block, this long, narrow, two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden house is set back from the street. Its gable end is towards the street, and the entrance is in the side yard through a long covered porch or piazza supported by delicate wooden columns . The matched-board surface of the house is an unusual feature of a gambrel roof house in Salem, the great majority of them being clapboarded. There is a very simple balustrade on the gambrel roof and a neat wooden fence in front of the house. The land on which" the house stands was sold by the proprietors of the Assembly House in 1794, and it seems probable that this house was built during the Federal Period. #142 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The Cook-Oliver house was designed by Samuel McIntire and begun in 1802-1803 for Captain Samuel Cook on land running down to the River which he bought from Dr. William Stearns. According to a letter at the Essex Institute from Henry K. Oliver, who married Cook' s daughter, and lived in the house, Captain Cook suffered from losses at sea during the building of the house and told the workmen he could not pay them for further work and for them to stop; the workmen apparently had faith in Cook' s ability to recoup his losses and finished the house, which had more work done on it in 1808. Whether the workmen were paid is not recorded, but on February 13, 1812, Bentley recorded that 70. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued that "S . Cooke cast away in Long Island sound. This is the fourth time & the loss to the Insurers in Salem will exceed 20 thousand dollars . " Cook ' s son-in-law, General Henry K. Oliver, was mayor of Lawrence where he is said to have played an important role in planning its parks, public buildings and churches. This was the result of his having been agent of the mills at Lawrence until 1859. Later he returned to Salem where as a young man he taught in Salem Schools, and later served as Mayor of Salem from 1876-1880 . He was also a member of the State Board of Education and State Treasurer. His interest in music is indicated by the well-known hymn,"Federal Street which he wrote. The three-story, plus hip roof house has a profusion of deli- cate Federal details applied to the facade. These include the graceful, rectangular portico with its simple, delicate columns, the carved wooden swags and bell flowers which are applied to the surfaces around the front door, the belt at the second story level, and the carving on the friezes above the second story windows. The cornice is trimmed with modillion blocks. In front of the house there is certainly one of the best, if not the best, McIntire fences in Salem, the four posts of which are adorned with urns, patera and beribboned bell flowers similar to those around the front door. According to Oliver ' s account, the small, two-story pitch roof ell on the west side of the house was added about 1850 to provide a new kitchen. Behind the house there has always been a long garden containing fruit trees, boxwood, flowers and a grapery. #146 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof, wooden mansion has a simple five-bay 71. A FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (even numbers} continued facade with a small, semi- circular fanlight above the door which is v set into a pediment supported by half-round columns. This treatment around the entrance was very popular during the Federal period, with the exception that in Salem the pediment supports are more often reeded pilasters than columns. In the east yard of the house there is a simpler pedimented entrance. North of the house on Flint Street are the sad remains of an old carriage shed. The brick retaining walls near the shed indicate that the contpurs of the land down to the North River have been modified during the years. According to Henry K. Oliver, the house was built about 1802 for Thomas Whittredge, a shipmaster who traded in Virginia and Mary- land. Fiske Kimball wrote that the "house and stable. . . .show a close relationship with McIntire ' s work, " but he was unable to establish definitely that McIntire designed the house. FLINT STREET CROSSES. #152 Federal Street ST. JAMES CHURCH RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER St. James Church is a large brick structure with pointed Gothic windows and three Gothic arched entrances on the facade which are up three separate flights of granite steps. The building is asymmetrical with a four-story tower and spire on the west side of the facade. It is a landmark at night when it is lit up by a spotlight. In 1849, a wooden church was built on this site, which was demolished to make room for the present building in 1892 . The present building was remodeled in 1900. #154 Federal Street Between this church and the school which adjoins it was the small wooden, gambrel roof house where Jones Very lived. It was recently torn down. Prior to that, a bronze plaque identified the home of 72. FEDERAL STREET - NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued this Salem poet, in whom there is now renewed interest. According to Oliver, the house was originally at 376 Essex Street and was removed to Federal Street in the early 1800 ' s. There is now a new one-story, small building on the site of the house. #160 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: EARLY 1900 ' s St. James School is a three-story brick building in the Romanesque style with an eight-bay facade. It is irregular in shape with a tower on the west side. The round-headed windows are accented by brick arches and by the use of granite belts around the building at the window sill level. FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) # ' s 83-159 #83 Federal Street The three-story, wooden clapboard, hip roof house which formerly stood at this location was recently demolished to create space for e an addition to the house west of it and for/parking area. It was of the Pre-Federal period and was at one time the home of Dr. Joseph Osgood Pwho had an apothecary shop in a small building near the house. Dr. Osgood inoculated Robert Rantoul and others against smallpox in the hospital in the Great Pasture in 1792. #85 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This large: wooden house has Italianate brackets and pedimented window caps which were popular features during this quarter of the 19th century. It is gable end to the street and has a square columned entrance portico with a bay window above. Recently a large, Colonial- type addition has been made to the east side of the house. #87 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This house is a good example of the Colonial Revival style; it is a two-story plus gambrel roof structure with itsgable end, including a 73. FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (Odd numbers) continued two-story bay window Ion the street. The quoined corner trim and cornice trimmed with modillion blocks are other characteristics of this style. On the east side of the house there is a projecting sec- tion with a pitch roof which is at right angles to the gambrel roof. In the west side yard there is a Colonial Revival entrance portico and leaded sidelights. Fancy chimneys are another characteristic of this style. #89 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This wooden, two-story plus pitch roof house faces Federal Court and has a five-bay facade. It is a simple example of the Greek Revival style, characteristic of which is the trim around the entrance and the two Wyatt windows on the .gable end. In the yard behind the house .there is a pitch roof addition. FEDERAL COURT BEGINS #93 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL This three-story plus hip roof house is a fine example of the Pre- Federal style. Characteristic features are the quoined corners, prominent molded window caps and sills, double dentil cornice and entrance with its fluted pilaster trim. The narrow clapboards are beaded and probably original. There are several ells attached to the house including a Beverly jog with an entrance on the Federal Court side. The house is believed to be the one which Jonathan Mason built in 1768: on the present site of the Bertram Home for Men at 29 Washington Square. Bentley, writing on March 27, 1818, noted that "John F. (Forrester) will take Mason' s house on the north and has determined to remove the wooden for the brick building on that spot. " May 14, 1818, he wrote; °`We have been amused not to say affronted by 74- FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued the attempt to convey through our streets from Washington Square to Federal Street, a House of three Stories from Mson ' s lot. The smaller n parts had been sent on. The main house was dragged into the Street and stood for one week. Yesterday it passed St. Peter ' s Church. The (town) pumps were removed and the Corner stone and after a day ' s work with a team of above 30 pair of oxen and their proper drivers, and with screws, chains & cables, I saw it turned. The operations did no honour to their judgment. There was no supremeo command and the streets were injuried in a most shameful manner. A Law of the Town is in favour of these acts from the jealousY. that the opposition to it was against Town privilege. The experience of so much trouble, loss and confusion should open the eyes of the Citizens ." The Mason family had owned property on this part of the Common as early as 1700, according to Perley. Jonathan Mason, merchant and sea captain, was appointed Wharfinger of Union Wharf in 1790; and earlier his father (?) , Captain Thomas Mason, had been a member of the committee of "Inspection and Correspondence' appointed by the Town in 1770: to enforce the non-importation agreement against the import of tea after the new duty was levied thereon. Before the removal of the house the John Fairfield family became its residents. The house still belongs to descendents of the William Roberts who moved it. He was a builder and mason and built St. Peter ' s Church and the old Salem depot; his wife was the daughter of Elijah Sanderson. The land on which the house stands was bought by Roberts from Bishop Cheverus Cheverus; it is thought / intended to build a Roman Catholic chapel there, but later decided that the lot was too small. #97 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD [QUARTER. This large, two-story plus hip roof, wooden house is a good example 75. FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (Odd numbers) continued of the mansion of this period, as is the barn in the yard behind the house. The imposing entrance portico with its fancy columns and rounded pediment, the bay windows on. efither side of the entrance, the small central gable and dormer windows in the roof, and the ornate paired Italianate brackets under the eaves are all characteristics of the style of the third quarter of the 19th century. There is a very large yard west of the house. According to Charles Archer, the land where Joseph W. Lefavour built this house used to be called Oliver ' s field. At one time the Misses Very taught school in this area, perhaps in the "school house, down in the field in Federal Street. " Fiske Kimball wrote that William S. Gray bought Revi. Fisher' s house in Federal Street (at #99-101) and built a superb house on the lot which was later demolished. This probably refers to the lot where the large yard is now. #103 Federal..Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof house faces Federal Street. It is reminiscent in size and shape of #93, :but its trim is Federal in its delicacy. The reeded pilasters and sidelights on either side of the front door are Federal characteristics as is the very simple molded cornice. The facade windows are evenly spaced, and the chim- neys are tall and slender. There is a small, flat-roofed addition on the east side of the house. The third floor windows have molded sills. Archer wrote that John Archer, the first Republican postmaster of Salem 'Iwho was appointed by Lincoln, lived here at one time. #105 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Unlike its neighbors, this two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden house is gable end to the street. The facade in the yard is not symmetrical, and it seems likely that windows near the street have been removed. 76. FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued The central entrance in the yard is very simple. The house has a tall, slender central chimney. There is a small lean-to ell on the back of the house and a little one-story 7glassed-in addition beyond. #22 Beckford Street (See Beckford Street) BECKFORD STREET CROSSES #107 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This combination house and store is interesting because it was designed to fit its corner location. It is a two-story plus Mansard roof, wooden building with ornate dormers and Italianate trim. The second- floor bay window on Federal Street looks like a later addition since the details on it are not copies of those on the main body of the house. It was built by John C. Chandler, the son of the Chandler family who used tokeep the old shop diagonally across the street from this building. Between this and #111 Federal Street, there was formerly a shop, first kept by Josiah Hayward, and later serving as John Glover' s paint store according to Archer. #111 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-storyjsquare house with a hip roof has been altered some- what by the addition of siding, a recessed front doorway with Victorian consoles plus a bay window above, and what seems to be a replacement of the original cornice. However, its basic form and shape indicate its original period. Atop a small addition on the west side there is a stylish, cast iron balustrade with lyre-shape balusters. Jonathan Tucker wrote that this was the home of Abner Goodhue, a blacksmith, who.y records at the Custom House suggest made the wrought iron stair rails there. Perhaps he is responsible for the cast iron railing mentioned above. #113 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof, square, wooden house was built just 77• FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (Odd numbers) continued shortly after the introduction of the Federal style in Salem, which was in 1793 . It is directly on the street and has a very handsome entrance topped by a molded pediment in the center of the five-bay facade. A transom above the door instead of a fanlight, the Federal hallmark, clearly indicates that it is not a full-blown Federal house, however, the use of triglyphs and metopes on the friezes above the first-floor windows suggest that the Federal style was gaining ac acceptance in Salem. Residents of the area have been told over the years that this house is one of several built by the Sanderson brothers, Salem' s venture cabinetmakers, who lived across the street at #120-122. It v was for many years the home of the Felt family. Jonathan Tucker wrote that it was the residence of Joseph Felt, farmer and carpenter, during the early 1800 ' s . Felt, called a housewright in the deed, bought the land in 1793, and the house was completed by 1795: Whether or not he built it himself is not recorded, but it is a reasonable assumption that he did. Further research will be necessary to discover if this was once the home of Joseph Felt, the early Salem historian. #115 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house is hard to date on the basis of its exterior appearance because it was converted from a shop to a home, and the roof was raised to provide more headroom in the attic. The present cornice of elongated dentils is therefore not of the original Federal period. The enclosed entrance to the house is in the west side yard and is trimmed with a rope cornice and reeded pilasters. Beyond the house there are several ells set at oblique angles to the house which add to its charm. The building was originally used as a shop by the Sanderson brothers, and tax records imply that it was built in 1793 . The 78. FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued Sanderson interests sold it to Joseph Edwards in 1814, and undoubtedly he converted it to a house shortly thereafter. #117-119 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a fine example of a double house of the Greek Revival period. It is a two=story plus pitch roof house facing the street and has a matched board facade with centered adjacent doorways in a double portico supported by Doric columns. All the architectural features of the period appear to have survived, including the five-sided window lintels on the facade, the characteristic wide entablature and simple corner pilaster strips . Part of the land on which the house stands once belonged to Elijah Sanderson and was used in con- junction with his cabinetmaking. Charles Archer, whose reminis- censes provide much of the material cincluded in this report, was born in one of the houses . #121 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This wooden house is an excellent example of the small Greek Revival style home. The recessed front entrance is on the gable end of the two-story plus pitch roof house which is on the street; placingg the entrance on one side of the gable end of the house was an innovation of the Greek Revival style. The facade is of matched boards, and there is a wide entablature under the eaves which continues across the gable end, as well as wide boards accenting the corners of the building, all of which are typical features of this style. The win- dow lintels are also of a type that was popular in the same period. #123 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This house is very similar to that described above (#121) , however, it has another feature which was introduced during this period, the cross gables, i.e. , two 'pitch roofs which intersect each other at right angles. There is an ell in the rear. The front door which is carved is a noteworthy feature of the same time in history. Archer wrote that this was the home of Captain Andrew Ward, a master mariner • °s FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued and merchant, one of Salem' s best-known captains, who died in 1860. #125 Federal Street (See #10 Monroe Street) MONROE STREET CROSSES #131 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This oblong, three-story plus hip roof wooden house has its front door on its long side in the yard on the west. The entrance is in an enclosed porch which is trimmed with reeded pilasters . The house appears to be pretty much as it was when built, except for the addition of a bay window above the entrance. Jonathan Tucker recalled in 1874 that during the period around 1810, Jonathan Ireland, a blacksmith , lived here and had a shop in the yard. Archer thinking of a time somewhat later wrote that Samuel Emery lived there. Emery was a nautical instrument maker with a shop on Derby Street. It was presumably he who designed the compass rose which the many visitors to the Peabody Museum admire. At that time there was a barn and a Baldwin apple tree in the yard. #135 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. plus This three-story/hip roof house was designed by Samuel McIntire for Captain Carpenter about 1801 and would be rated number one were it not for the fact that it was much altered during the late 1800 ' s . Very little of the exterior trim remains undisturbed. An old photo- graph at the Essex Institute shows a doorway unlike the present one and. yet not in the Federal style, hence one assumes that this one with its leaded fan and sidelights is a later restoration. The matched board facade of the house could be original, but the treatment of the windows, the quoined corners and the bay window are not typical of the Federal period. The handsome wooden fence along Federal Street is a reproduction in the McIntire style. According to Fiske Kimball, the house was built in 1801 for Captain Benjamin Carpenter, a sea captain and soldier in the Revolution, and the plans still exist. It wag0:or many years the home of Michael FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued Shepard, who was a close friend and business associate of John Bertram, whose home (the present Public Library) backed up to the garden behind #135 Federal Street. Still later, Mrs . Bertram acquired the house although..she didn ' t live there. #139 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This simple two-story plus hip roof, L-shaped, wooden house in the Federal style has less ornamentation than the large grand houses generally associated with the, early 1800 ' s . The five-bay facade faces directly on the street, and there is a recessed front entrance which is probably not original since this feature is not usually found until the 1830 ' s . The house has two slender end chimneys, evenly spaced windows, and a simple cornice, all features of this period. Jonathan Tucker 's account says that next west of #135 there was a house that belonged in 1875 to the Fryes and had belonged to the Chipmans. Archer wrote that the house there belonged to Sally Frye and next to it that of Joseph Farnum and his son "These last two homes were torn down for the house of Richard Harrington." Still a third account, that of Henry K. Oliver, says that between #135 and #141 "stands a one-story pitch roofed house with no attic windows. It is old and belonged to the Cutts- Frye family." The conflict between these three accounts will have to be resolved by more research. #143 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. Standing end to the street, this small, two-story plus pitch roof house has a cornice under eaves and very large central chimney, both typical of the Pre-Federal style. The entrance in the yard is in an enclosed entrance porch with an oval side window from which the house- wife could see who was coming to call. There is a Greek Revival '�� s hi style piazza. on the east side of the house. OliverA: recollections said it belonged to Lydia Dole and probably moved to this location 81, from elsewhere. He lived in the house at one time, as did Rufus Choate. • r • a . . , FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued #145 Federal Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. James Culliton, a successful tanner, built this large two-story plus hip roof house in 1858, according to H. K. Oliver. Behind it he had a fruit garden. The house has many of the features which were popular when it was built such as pedimented windows, paired brackets and a square columned portico and balustrade above. The house has a hand- some iron fence in front of it. FLINT STREET CROSSES #149 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. There seems to be no information about this house in the usual sources about Federal Street. It is a two-story plus gambrel roof building which faces the street and has a Aeverly jog at each end as well as a one-story 7lean-to addition on the west side. The clapboards have been covered with shingles and the frontentrance ., which is not in the center of the four-bay facade, has been altered. The high brick foundation suggests that the house was moved to this location. #151 Federal Street RATING: ONE: PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus gambrel roof house facing Federal Street has a delicately trimmed entrance and semicircular fanlight in the center of its five-bay facade. The windows on either side of the door are paired. There is a delicately carved wooden dentil cornice under the eaves. Wooden clapboards still cover the house iand because no alterations have been made it is an excellent example of a small Federal period building. The house has a very low foundation and a small pitch roof ell behind it. There is a small, one-story, clapboarded pitch roof building behind the house in the yard. #153 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This Greek Revival hou4s gable end to the street and has had many additions attached to it. The entrance has been altered by the addition of Victorian consoles and an Italianate bay window above. Archer wrote that it was the home of Leonard Harrington, a tanner and 82. FEDERAL STREET - SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued currier and the brother of Charles Iwho lived down the street at #179. They were probably both related to Richard who lived at #141. Leonard' s workmen lived with him, and he introduced a system of paying them a portion of their wages while he kept the remainder and paid them interest on it in order to let them build up a nest egg. #155-157 Federal Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL, This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house faces Federal Street. Itthas the basic shape and form of a house of the Federal style, but appears to have been altered by the addition of Italianate details above the first floor windows and around the doors at either end of the facade. There is an iron fence in front of the house. According to Old Salem Gardens rare blood peaches used to be grown in its garden. #159 Federal Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This large two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house has been altered during the years and is therefore difficult to date. The matched board gable suggests, that it was built originally in the Greek Revival style, but the addition of paired Italianate brackets and a pediment over the entrance in the yard have diluted the style. Old Salem Gardens states that the garden behind it originally ran back to Fowler Street and was planted in the 1850 ' s in a style similar to the garden at the Ropes Mansion. Some of the land was later taken by the City to. become part of the Bowditch School complex. 83. FEDERAL COURT Prior to 1806, Captain James Barr, mariner, and Micah Wild, gentleman, owned the open land on the south side of Federal Street through which Federal Court now runs . In 1806 they agreed to "lay out a court or private way of twenty-four feet wide extending from Federal Street to . . . .Nathaniel Ropes ' land. . . .the same may be forever -kept open for the accommodations of their estates aforesaid. " Shortly after, Wild, who owned the land on the west of the Court, sold the back lot I,now #6, to William Roberts, bricklayer, and in 1811 Wild sold the lot where #4 stands to Lewis Folsom, mariner. Captain James Barr kept the east side of the Court until 1826, when he sold the land in two lots. The dead-end Court is a Federal period enclave of peace and quiet. Much of the material about the Court was taken from a paper in the possession of Raymond Cummings, Esq. , a resident of the street. FEDERAL COURT - EAST SIDE #3 Federal Court RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, clapboard house suggests the Greek Revival style which was seen to be introduced because its entrance is to one side of the gable end which is on the street. The fanlight and sidelights, however, stillfollow the Federal style; the flat-roofed rectangular portico is supported by graceful columns . The house has two typical Federal chimneys. The fence in front of the :house is a reproduction of a fence of the period; on the street there is a large horse chestnut tree. In the back of the yard on the south side of the house there is a small, two-story plus pitch roof chaise house with a double door surrounded by a pilastered arch; original or not, it is very much in keeping with this Federal period house. It is thought that Elias Cornelius built this house between 1826, when he bought tht land, and 1827 when he sold the land and house upon it to the Reverend William Williams of Salem. Judge Alden Perley White and his family lived in this house84for many years around 1900. FEDERAL COURT - EAST SIDE (continued) Beyond #3 Federal Court the Ropes Mansion owns a small plot on which there is a greenhouse. FEDERAL COURT - WEST SIDE (even numbers) #4 Federal Court RATING: ONE: PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, clapboard house is gable end to the street and faces south. The southern facade has five bays and a central entrance trimmed with flit pilasters and a semicircular fanlight above the door. The casement windows with small panes are not original or typical of the period, and the iron railings on the doorstep are also new. There is a small kitchen ell at the far end of the house. A grape arbor in the yard shades a small brick terrace and a picket fence separates the house from the sidewalk. Micah Wild, who owned the west side of the court, sold this lot to Lewis Folsom, mariner, in 1811, who sold the land and house to Ebenezer Dodge in 1815. The Dodge family remained there until 1872 . Plainly the house was built between 1811 and 1815 . #6 Federal Court RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This was the first Lot sold on Federal Court, and the first house to be built. Wild sold the land to William Roberts, bricklayer, in 1806, who presumably built the house and lived there until 1817, when he sold it and moved into .the house at #93 Federal Street on the corner of the Court. By 1819, it became the home of John Porter Felt, mariner, in whose family it remained until the early 1960 ' s. Charles Archer reminisced in 1922 that Captain Joseph Porter Felt formed an indepen- dent company of Zouaves made up of ten and twelve year-old boys who lived around Federal Street. plus The house is a three-story/hip roof, brick (Flemish bond facade) building with a belt at the second floor level; it is long and narrow with the front door on the narrow end on the street. The entrance has the usual fan and side lights, above which a roof supported by iron brackets has recently been added. There are no decorative lintels 85. • � y y , t FEDERAL COURT - WEST SIDE (even numbers) continued above the first floor windows, but both the second and third story windows are trimmed with keyed wooden lintels; there are not many examples of wooden lintels in Salem. Under the eaves there is a brick dentil cornice. The wooden kitchen ell be the house is a fairly recent addition. The house is quiet and peaceful at the end of this 'dead-end private way and has a fine view of the garden behind the Ropes Mansion, as well as its own less formal gardens on either side of the house. 86. FLINT STREET. According to Perley, Flint Street was called a highway by 1668 and a lane to the North River in 1679. The southern end has been called Flint ' s Pane or Flint Street since the 1700 ' s, and the northern portion was Dean ' s lane during the same period. Late in the 19th century Dean Street was renamed Flint Street. FLINT STREET, EAST SIDE (even numbers) #14 Flint Street. RATING: THREE, PFRIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This simple. two-storyI wooden building with a pitch roof faces Flint Street. The Greek Revival pilastered trim around the front door has been removed recently and replaced with a modern roof. The house is built on a high brick foundation. INA.RFFN STFEFT CROSFFS. ESSEX STREET CROSSES. No..� Flint Street is a small modern one-story wooden house with pitch roof. No. 40 Flint Street is also a small and modern wooden house. FEDERAL STREET CROSSES. #52-54 Flint Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is the Hacker School. The main portion of this two-story, pitch roof, brick schoolhouse was built in 1820 and , replaced a wooden building put on the site in 1785 on land purchased from Joseph Sprague in what was then called Dean ' s field. Here Isaac Hacker taught for twenty-nine years. The present structure shows by its varied window treatments (rough granite lintels, no lintels, and grooved sandstone window bases) and the different colors of bricks that it has been remodelled from time to time (1839, 1849) . The school was closed in 1870 . 87. FLINT STREET WEST SIDE (odd numbers) #15 Flint Street. (See #30 Warren Street. ) #17 Flint Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER (?) This two-story, pitch roof house has its gable end to the street and is on built-up land. The facade consists of matched boards and has quoined corners and a double arched window in the gable. Typical of the period is a rear portion of the building which projects beyond the front and an entrance at the side juncture of these two parts. #19 Flint Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. plus This large two-story/ yansard roof house is an excellent example of third quarter architecture. It is set slightly back from the street and above the street level. It has fancy slates on the curved mansard roof and an imposing front portico. All its architectural features are intact. #21 Flint Street. RATING: TWO. PqRLOD: THIRD QUARTER. plus roof This wooden, two-story/ r,'ansard/building is ell-shaped with a porch and entrance in the side yard. Its fancy cut-out wooden fence is typical of the period. #25 Flint Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD_: FEDERAL. The exterior of this small wooden house facing Chestnut Street appears to be Federal in style, although the late owner believed that it pre- dated that period. Sidney Perley wrote that J. Kimball built the house in 1807 and sold it in 1818 to Stephen Fogg; he added to the southern end of the house a shop he purchased south of the house and of the same general period. This had been used for the salt trade. In 1859 #25 Flint was bought by George L. Peabody. Certainly from the exterior it is evident that it is two two-story, pitch roof buildings joined together, one facing Chestnut Street and the other with its 88. FLINT STREET, WEST SIDE. (odd numbers) continued gable end toward Flint street. The entrance is in a pedimert_.ec' en- closed porch which is triwned with reeded pilasters. CHESTNUT STREET ENDS. ESSEX STREET CROSSES. #31 Flint Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD : GREEK REVIVAL. plus pitch roof This gable-end-to-the-street, two-story/wooden building is typical of the Greek Revival period. The recessed front door is at one side of the gable end and has typical trim; the entablature runs under the eaves along both sides of the building. The present owner says it was once the property of Captain John Bertram who held much property in Salem. She also states that she has found papers belonging to Captain Charles Pierce in the cellar. N0.33 Flint Street is in the yard behind #31. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. It has the hip roof of the Federal period and a gambrel roof ell. It is wooden and two stories high with siding, . and has a modern entrance. #35 Flint Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. The Bowditch School is a large three-story, square, brick building and dates from 1870 with later additions in the rear. It is typical of its period being raised above the street; the central portion of the facade projects beyond the rest and has a gable. Trim consists of a brick cornice, under a bracketed wooden cornice, segmental arches above the windows, and granite trim. #p41 Flint Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is a typical two-storyI wooden house with a PRansard roof and pedimented dormer windows of the third quarter. has an addition in the rear, a recessed doorway, and an iron picket fence in the front. 89. FOWLER STREET. North Pine Street to Bowditch School Fowler Street does not appear on Saunders ' 1820 map of Salem, but some of the houses certainly predate this . Either they were here i before the street, or were moved here later. NORTH SIDE (odd numbers) #21 Fowler Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL Pre-r c�rerHl This two-story, gambrel roof, wooden house has a typical/cornice. The recessed front door is flanked by pilasters . The clapboards are covered with siding. #19 Fowler Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is a two-story, wooden house with a gambrel roof and an ell. Shingles now cover the clapboards . #17 Flowler Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD : THIRD QUARTER. This one-story, wooden building with a steeply pitched roof is ell- shaped and has a bay window. . SOUTH SIDE (even numbers) #24 Fowler Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a two-story, wooden building with a pitch roof. Its gable end is on the street. #22-20 Fowler Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL This double house is two stories high with a pitch roof. Its clap- boards are covered with siding and it has an interesting high stone foundation. go. • i HAMILTON STREET Hamilton Street has always been called by that name. It appears on J. P. Saunders ' map of Salem in 1820, and Perley notes references to it as early as 1813 . There was formerly a livery service on its east side and some extensive gardens ori the west. Fiske Kimball refers to the sale in 1815 of Samuel Field McIntire ' s nearly new house on Hamilton Street; which house it was is now unknown. None of the present buildings on the street look that old. EAST SIDE (odd numbers) #1 Hamilton Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD : GREEK REVIVAL. This brick house was built by Dr. B. F. Browne, according to Thayer' s Recollections, probably robabl around 1830. It has been written that when Hawthorne heard callers at his house on the corner of Bott ' s Court and Chestnut Street, he used to skip out the back door through the Court to call on Dr. Browne. This is a two-story, pitch roof house facing Hamilton Street. Its recessed entrance has a pointed, molded stone lintel. There is an interesting window in the gable on Essex Street. (There are few brick, Greek Revival dwellings in Salem.) #5 Hamilton Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: O11N-AL REV EVA:,. This two-story, pitch roof, wooden house was formerly in the yard of the Pickering House on Broad Street. #7 Hamilton Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. The Colonial Revival buildings in Salem are for the most part very skillfully designed, and this is an excellent example of the style. It is a large two-story, wooden house with a gambrel roof. The front entrance, up a short flight of granite steps, is trimmed with a broken pediment and carved pineapple, and the house has an ornRte cornice. 91. HAMILTON STREET WEST SIDE (even numbers) continued #4 Hamilton Street. RATING: THREE, PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This one and one-half story house has a steeply pitched roof and rests on a high granite foundation. A second shallower pitched roof is superimposed on the lower one to give more space and light. Whether the latter is original or not is not known. #6 to # 8 Hamilton Street. RATING: THREE, PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This is a large, wooden, double house with a hip roof, balustrade, Palladian windows, and a fanlight in the gable above the central, double front entrance. The fence posts are topped with urns . #10 Hamilton Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story, wooden house with a pitch roof and side entrance through a covered piazza has brackets typical of the Italianate style. 9z• HATHORNE STREET. Numbers 9 through 15, and 10 through 26 Many Salem children have heard from their elders that Hathorne ;tit, i,_ Street used to be called Circus Street because it was: where the circuses gathered circa 1800 . Perley says that the "Salem Circus" was advertized there in 1808 . Hathorne Street appears on Saunders ' Map in 1820 . EAST SIDE (odd numbers) #9 Hathorne Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This building and its neighbor to the south are twin houses ; archi- tecturally intact, they still have their original front doors and colored glass panes . #11 Hathorne Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER (See # 9) #15 Hathorne Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story, wooden house has a steeply pitched roof and appears to be Greek Revival in style, although the owner believes it may have been built about 1810 . It has facade gables and an ell at one end, which is said to have been moved there from some other location. WEST SIDE (even numbers) #10 Hathorne Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. T:11S is a two"-story, wooden, end-to-the-street house with a side entrance. The bay windows are typical of the period. #14 Hathorne Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. Tc-, ' -s is another typical Third Quarter house with two stories and a pitch roof. It is wooden and covered with siding. #18-20 Hathorne Street.RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story, wooden house has a Mansard roof and dormer windows . A neighbor believes that she has seen an old photograph of the house without the ?Mansard roof; therefore, it is possible that the third quarter style hides an earlier house. 93• HATHORNE STREET,WEST SIDE (even numbers) continued HATHORNE PLACE BEGINS. #24 Hathorne Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, wooden house with a pitch roof is back from the street t has %;i;a a and on a slight rise of land,/ two chimneys / pilastered front entrance. #26 Hathorne Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL, plus Placed with its gable end to the street, this one-story / pitch roof, wooden house has a simple, but typical, Federal entrance in the yard. 94. HIGH STREET--From Margin to Summer Street. #' s 15 through 25; #' s 6 through 26 . High Street is one of the oldest streets in Salem. Laid out in the 1660 ' s, it was part of the main route to Marblehead for years. Washington came to Salem from Marblehead . via High Street in 1789. and beyond The South River formerly came up to/the area below High Street, and the cove was called "Knocker' s Hole" because of the noise made by shipbuilders at the waterfront. The Salem Fire in 1914 barely missed High Street. PRATT STREET BEGINS HIGH STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) #15 High Street. This is a modern one-story shop. #17 High Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. (siding) A picture at the Essex Institute shows this two-story, wooden gambrel roof, end-to-the-street house before the entrance was altered and It has typical siding was added.) Federal chimneys and simple dormer windows. #19 High Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL This is to be a very small, one-story, gambrel roof house of the Rre-Federal period. It is in the yard of #21 and set back from the street which it faces. It has a large square, central chimney and siding. There are additions in the rear. It belongs to the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities. #21 High Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: 17TH CENTURY This gable-end-to-the-street two-story house, with steep pitch roof and rear lean-to addition, was - built circa 1664 by Eleazer Gedney, shipbuilder and church deacon, who bought the land that year from James Ruck and married Elizabeth Turner in June 1665 . Internal evidence suggests that it first began with the southern end as a "half- house". and half-house". and that the northern end was ,originally a one-story pent roof ell which was soon raised to its present height., The , lean-to behind was a still later addition. The house has recently been acquired by the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities and will. soon be open as a place to study early construction. The Gedneys were a • HIGH STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued very prominent family during the 17th century; Eleazer and Anna Gedney moved to "Momorimack, " West Chester County, N Y'I , in 1697, where Gedneys still flourish. This is a very important 17th century dwelling. r.,, R Nrirnr ; THREE IPtK10-0: 1900 ' s #23 High Street✓ This is a relatively modern, three-story, tenement with a flat roof. The use of a dentil cornice under the eaves and around the dormer windows suggests the Colonial Revival turn-of-the-century style, of tenement or "triple decker:' #25 High Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This small: two-story, wooden pitch roof house faces High Street; it has a simple enclosed front entrance and a large: square, central Chimney. NORTH SIDE (even numbers) #6 High Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. The use of brackets under the eaves of this house suggests the third quarter, but the main entrance in the yard appears to be typical of an -Ti- is a-- earlier style except for the addition of smaller brackets. n two-story,plus building pitch roof, wooden (siding) , end-to-the-gtreet/with a rear addition. #8 High Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. Number 8 High Street is a two-story, pitch roof house with its gable end to the street. The windows are irregularly spaced; the chimneys are gone. The house is covered with siding and has an ell in the rear. #10-12 High Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, wooden (siding) gambrel roof house has a typical, Federal and simple/entrance in the yard, /one Federal style chimney is evident. It has one addition away from the street and a second, west of the main body of the house; each has a pitch roof. #14 High Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Similar to #10 High Street, this house is also two-story, plus a gambrel 96. HIGH STREET NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued roof and is placed with its end to the street. The usual Federal entrance is trimmed with a dentil cornice. The large pitch roof addition in the yard looks as if it may have been a separate building at one time. The house is wooden and covered now with siding. #16 High Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, clapboard house with a hip roof was originally L- shaped. There are five bays on the facade. Possibly the front door was originally in the center; but it is now is to one side and has Victorian trim. GEDNEY STREET ENDS #20 High Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: 1850 ' s plus a pitch roof, <_-- This two-story/wooden house has Itanianate trim. The entrance directly on High Street is under. a Victorian, roof, and there are typical paired brackets decorating the area under the eaves. #22-24 High Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Among buildings listed in 1806 as "partly of brick" was the home of plus hip roof, William Fabens on High Street. This three-story square, house is partly brick with a stucco end on the street, which may cover either a wood or brick wall. Fiske Kimball mentions mantels from the George Fabens house on High Street which had carving apparently by Samuel McIntire. The entrance on the east side is trimmed with a pediment, dentil cornice and reeded pilasters, while the western entrance has a plain pediment and pilasters. The brick work over the windows is in the form of the more usual splayed stone lintels. #26 High Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Gable-end-to-the-street, this two-story, wooden (siding) , pitch roof house has two additions in the yard. A new front door is still trimmed with, its original pilasters and entablature... There are pointed., molded lintels above the windows, 97. I I % r % f LYNN STREET Lynn Street is on Bentley ' s list of streets in 1796 and on Saunders ' Map in 1820 . The number of Pre-Federal houses on the street indicates that it is even older. Retaining walls in the yards of some of the buildings at the northern end suggest that the land once sloped off sharply to the banks of the North River which was at the end of the street before it was filled in and Bridge Street was laid, out. EAST SIDE (even numbers) ANDOVER STREET BEGINS. #8 Lynn Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. plus This simple, two-story / pitch roof, clapboard building faces Lynn Street. The typical pilastered entrance is in the center of the five-bay structure. There are tcro large chimneys; there is a molder cornice under the eaves. #10 Lynn Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a a tw¢story, clapboard, gable-end-to-the-street house with1small ell in the rear. A few of the early twelve-over-twelve windows remain as well as the two original chimneys . The entrance in the yard is typical of the Federal period. #12 Lynn Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This end-to-the-street, two-story, gambrel roof, wooden house has two lean-to additions in the rear on River Street. The enclosed entrance porch in the side yard has been modified. LYNN STREET WEST SIDE (odd Numbers) #1 Lynn Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL This two-story, square, brick building has a hip roof and brick dentil cornice. A former owner believes it was a stable for #124 Federal Street; however, the present owner of # 124 Federal Street, as a result of research, believes it was built as a shop in the early 1800 ' s by Jonathan Waldo. The location of the granite window sills and splayed lintels and the semi circular fanlight over the rear door indicate that it probably was L 98• LYNN STREET, WEST SIDE (odd numbers) continued built for a shop. it-was converted into a residence with a large central entrance on Lynn Street many years ago. #3 Lynn Street. RATINGS TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL Flus Number 3 Lynn is a three-bay, end-to-the-street, two-story pitch roof house. It has a. typical entrance with pilastered triTMi in the yard, a larpe chimney and an addition in the rear. #7 Lynn Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL Fronting on the street, this is a two-story, pitch roof, wooden house. It has three bays, the central one being a simple pedimented entrance with the original front door. There are two additions in the rear. #9 Lynn Street. RATING: TWO, PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. plus This two-story / gambrel roof house facing Lynn Street has recently under- gone some changes . The molded pediment over the front door has been replaced and the fluted pilasters on either side have been halved. The house is, however, a fine example of its period. Clapboards are partially covered with shingles. At the rear is a two-story ell. #11 Lynn Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL This two-story, pitch roof, wooden house is gable end to the-street and less representative of its period than other houses in the immediate vicinity because of various changes which have taken place over the years. It has irregularly placed, small windows, a modern roof over the front door, and a small lean-to ell in the rear. #13 Lynn Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE This three-story, end-to-the-street, wooden (siding) house with a pitch roof appears to be newer than the other houses on Lynn Street. This may be the result of remodeling or it may be a more recently built house. There is an ell on the rear on Bridge Street and a three- story enclosed piazza in the rear. The gable end is to the street. 99. MONROE STREET Sidney Perley says Monroe Street was laid out in 1801 and called a new street. It was next called Shillaber Street and finally named in honor of President Monroe after a procession of citizens awaited him there in 1817 . EAST SIDE (even numbers) #6 Monroe Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. plus a This large two-story ,gambrel roof house witb/rear ell faces the street. Architecturally simple, its recessed front entrance and bay window appear to be later additions . #10 Monroe Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. A two-story, wooden house with a pitch roof, it has a large central chimney indicative of the Pre-Federal period. The enclosed front porch is set off by reeded pilasters. The house is attractively set back from the street and shaded by a large elm in the yard. ,`Ihe house was built for Nathaniel Gould in 1782 according to recently co^•pleted research. Two small pitched roof ells are on the south side. WEST SIDE (odd numbers) #5 Monroe Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, wooden house with a hip roof and two slender chimneys faces south toward Essex Street. The front entrance is through an enclosed flat-roofed porch trimmed with fluted pilasters. The bay window above is a later addition. A granddaughter of a former owner reports that it contains the staircase from the Orne-Hodges house at 266 Essex Street, now Bowman ' s Market; it was installed about 1900 . #7 Monroe Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, gambrel roof, end-to-the-street house has an ell on the north at the rear. In the yard there is a handsome pedimented portico supported by fluted columns. The bay window above is a later addition. The house was built about 1802 for Asa Flan-lc+roo 100. NORTH STREET According to Sidney Perley, North Street is an ancient lane and has been called by many names in the past, such as William' s lane, Weld ' s lane, and Curwen' s lane. North Bridge, built around 1744, was, with its connecting causeway, 860 feet long and had a draw in the middle. It was in this area that a dramatic incident know as "Leslie ' s Retreat" took place just prior to the Revolution on the last Sunday in February 1775 . General Gage sent Col. Leslie and 300 of the King ' s soldiers to capture some cannon which Salem patriots had hidden across the North River. Warned by Major Pedrick of Marblehead that the British had landed in that Town and were marching to Salem, Salem men collected at the North River bridge and refused to lower the draw- bridge to allow the soldiers to cross until Parson Thomas Barnard, who had left his pulpit in the nearby North Church, arranged for Leslie and his men to march across the bridge thirty rods and then counter- march back to Marblehead and return to Boston. On Phillips ' heap of Salem about 1780, the area just south of the Bridge is called Odell ' s Hill. NORTH STREET WEST SIDE (odd numbers) #9 North Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL This three-story, clapboard, hip roof house has a centrally located, recessed Greek Revival style entrance with columns on either side. The house appears to be Federal in style, although some authorities say it is actually older than its exterior indicates . From 1811 to 1823 it was the home of Nathaniel Bowditch, Salem' s mathematician and author of The Practical Navigator, the seaman ' s bible. As such, it has been certified recently as a National Historic site by the U. S . Department of the Interior. This house 101. NORTH STREET, WEST SIDE (odd numbers) continued was formerly at #312 Essex Street between the Witch House and the Red Cross building, but it was moved when the Essex and North street in- tersection was widened. One ell of the building was removed at that time to become the front portion of the building at 11-2 Cambridge Street. be p_iI:.s. EATON PLACE/(off North Street between #9 and #17) #17 North Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story, flat roofed 0wooden building is distinguished by its matching bowed projections on either side of the porticoed entrance. There are ornate cornices over the windows on these bows, and the double front door is carved and has a heavy molding around the windows on the upper portion on either side of the door. A third story was removed some years ago. This is the Benevolent and 'Protective Order 0, U, building. # 3 Eaton Place--behind #17 North Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Th;3,s is a three-story, oblong,,,wooden (siding) hip roofed house with some of the smallest third-story windows in Salem. It has finely reeded pilasters nn either side of the front door and an elliptical shuttered fanlight above. At the far end, the ell has eight-over-eight windows and a simple pilastered entrance with a Federal period door. This building' s high brick foundation suggests that it has been raised or moved to this location. #19 North Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is one of rather few brick, Greek Revival dwellings in Salem. It has two stories and a pitch roof, and is placed end-to-the-street with an imposing columned portico in the yard and a small ell to the rear . Near the eaves there is a slightly projecting.,brick entablature typical of this period. The original windows, some of which have not been altered or replaced by bay windows, have stone lintels. The stable in the yard is intact and probably dates from the third quarter. 102. R NORTH STREET, WEST SIDE (odd numbers) continued #21 North Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD : PROBABLY FEDERAL This simple two-story,wooden (siding) building with a pitch roof has few exterior architectural details and hence is hard to date . This general type and style of building remained popular in the Salem area for many, many years. The first floor is occupied by a laundry. #21 Rear North Street. In the yard behind #21 there is a small modern house. #25 North Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD : The gambrel roof, end-to-the-street house (like #21 North Street) is a style which was built for many years in Salem and is therefore diffi- cult to date, especially if architectural details are hidden by siding and later additions. This house has lost its original chimneys, is covered with siding, and has had a bay window added over the yard entrance 7which is covered with a later roof supported by brackets. According to Perley, in 1764 a 17th century house was moved from Essex Street to the lot on North Street opposite Lynde Street; it seems doubtful that this is the same house. #27 North Street. RATING TSF E. PERIOD: This is a simple shingled house with three .stories Pius a. flat reef. 103. NORTH PINE STREET-from Essex to Fowler Streets This was originally a private way and does not show as a street on the 1820 Map__,of Salem, although S outh Pine Street does. Perley says the latter was laid out in 1806. WEST SIDE (odd numbers) #1-3 North Pine Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This double house has a double central entrance framed by typical Greek Revivalfflat pilasters. It is wooden and has two stories plus a pitch roof and is architecturally intact. #5 North Pine Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL This is a typical three-story, wooden, hip roof dwelling with a small ell. It has an enclosed front porch with small oval side windows, which is framed by flat pilasters . At the first floor level the window caps are typical of the Pre-Federal period; the window openings are narrower than usual. #7, 9, 11, 13 North Pine Street. RATING: TWO: PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER This is an interesting early example of a multiple dwelling. It has four recessed doorways, a high brick foundation and scalloped, colored slates on the Yansard roof. NORTH PINE STREET, EAST SIDE (even numbers) #2 North Pine Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL This is a simple two-story, end-to-the-street, wooden house with a pitch roof and ell. #4 North Pine Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL Another typical example of a simple house, this one is also placed with its gable end to the street. It is a wooden, two-story, pitch roof house with two chimneys. #6 North Pine Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is a nicely proportioned, gambrel roof, two-story, wooden siding) 104. 1 • � p NORTH PINE STREET, EAST SIDE (even numbers) continued house which still retains its pedimented front entrance. #8 North Pine Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Similar in shape and form to its neighbors, the entrance to this house has been modified by the addition of a roof supported' by brackets . It is a two-story, wooden (siding) house with a pitch roof. lOK. - _ I f PICKERING STREET Jonathan P. Saunders shows Pickering Street in his map of Salem in 1820, but Bentley does not list it in 1796 . EAST SIDE (even numbers) #4 Pickering Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: MODERN This two-story, pitch roof, wooden house is contemporary, but of sympathetic Colonial design. WEST SIDE (odd numbers) #1 Pickering Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This large two-story, pitch roof, brick house was built by Mr. Kelsey on the site of a large . enclosed garden. Typical of the Colonial Revival style of the turn-of-the-century, it has many so-called Colonial details: quoined corners, pilasters, pedimented dormers, Palladian windows, and a central portico. It is said that it was designed by Machado. 106. RIVER STREET In 1797 Bentley ' s Diary says, "Spent eve at River Street commonly called Cape Driver, " perhaps because some of the Driver family owned property in the area. According to Perley, it was a way as early as called 1739 and/River Street by 1796. The North River used to come up to the foot of River Street before it was filled in; in those days the river was sometimes called "The Blue Danube, " and its north bank, "Paradise. " SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) #3 River Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. plus pitch roof, This is a large and typical Greek Revival, two-story wooden gable, end-to-the-street house. It has a broad entablature under the eaves and a main entrance in the side yard. #7 River Street. RATING: ONE. PFRrnD: PRE-FEDERAL. The enclosed entrance in the yard of this house has pilasters, pediment, and small oval side windows . The style of this two-story, pitch roof, wooden house has not been changed by remodeling. #11 River Street. RATING: TWO. P$RIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is a wide example of the two-story, pitch roof, end-to-the-street house of this period; the large square chimney remains. The house, as well as the pedimented and enclosed entry porch in the yard, are covered with siding. #13 River Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This two-story, pitch roof, wooden house is situated with its end to the street. It has simple fluted pilasters on either side of the main the original door and shingles over/clapboards. #15 River Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is a rather unusual looking building because a later ell was added to the rear of a typical. two-story, end-to-the-street, gambrel (siding) roof, wooden/house with siding. There is a simple entrance in the yard. 107. RIVER STREET, SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued #17 River Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD.: PRE-FEDERAL. This two-story, pitch roof house is parallel to the street, but a later simple Greek Revival doorway now forms an entrance in a small attached ell in the yard. The window openings are unusually short. #19 River Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD.: INDETERMINATE. This tall, skinny 9gable,* end-to-the-street, three-story building is sandwiched in between its older neighbors, but^has a wider ell in the rear. NORTH SIDE (even numbers) #2 River Street. _RATING: TWO. PERIOD.: PRE-FEDERAL. This two-story, gambrel roof house faces the street and has a central front doorway with simple pilastered trim and two windows on either side. The door itself is modern. #4 River Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is plus a small simplertwo-story/ pitch roof, wooden house with little archi- tectural detail One wonders why the western second-story window is lower than the others. The small roof and supporting brackets over the front door appear to be a later addition. #6 River Street. RA;ING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. A large square central chimney dominates this two-story, pitch roof house and lean-to addition. The central front doorway directly on the street is decorated with simple pilasters and entablature. The door itself is modern• #8 River Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, pitch roof, end-to-the-street house is very close to its neighbor. It has almost no architectural detail which distinguish it. Siding covers the exterior. 108. T '?P(gR STRP,'tORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued #12 River Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Simple doorways in the side yard lead into this one-story, pitch roof house with dormer windows. It is L-shaped and has two tall thin chimneys. Shingles now hide the original exterior. #14 River Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is a small two-story, pitch roof house with a lean-to in the rear. It is what is often called a half-house, because the entrance is at one end of the facade. #16 River Street. RATING,: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This small two-story house with a pitch roof appears to have its only entrance on the facade of a Beverly jog (ell) in the rear. This reale ell has a steeply pitched roof. Probably clapboards are under the wooden shingles of this house. #18 River Street. RAT-ING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL° This simple two-story, pitch roof building is similar to its neighbor: except that it has a Beverly jog at either side of the house in t;i_ the et-ret, rear towardswherethe North River used to run. logo SUMMER STREET--from Essex to Margin Street According to Perley, Summer Street was called a highway as early as 1661 and was called the Highway to Marblehead by 1711. In 1773 it was called Broad Street and finally in 1796 it became known as Summer Street. EAST SIDE (odd numbers from 5 to 55) #5-9 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. #5-9 is a three-story, pitch-roof, brick house with three handsome entrance porticos (one separate and two together supported by Ionic columns. The alteration of one of the doors and the addition of a cellar entrance detract from the original plan of the building. According to B. F. Browne, it was built by and lived in by Captain Nathaniel West who commanded a privateer during the Revolution. Later it was the home of General William Cogswell, who fought in the Civil War, and. was Mayor of Salem and a member of Congress. #11 Summer Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The square shape, hip roof, and third-story windows are all that re- main to indicate that this is an old house. Stucco and cement covering, an altered entrance and the addition of two bay windows make it almost unrecognizable. Mr. Phillips in "Salem in the 90 ' s" indicates that this was the home of Judge Pyncheon, a loyalist, whose windows were broken by a mob prior to the Revolution; he evidently boarded them over and left them so for some years afterward. #15 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This two-story frame house with gambrel roof and ell is a fine early example of the C olonial Revival style. Evidence indicates that it v was built by John Peabody about 1869. It is set back from and above the street, unlike its neighbors . 110. -36- SUMMER STREET, EAST SIDE (odd numbers) continued #23 Summer Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL plus This wooden house has three stories a hip roof and a large chimney. The street entrance is simple, but the main entrance in the yard is er;trance unique in the neighborhood because of the width of the enclosed/porch; this is only partially surmounted by a pediment and has fluted pilasters on the corners and framing the door. A picture in Cousins and Riley ' s book shows this entrance directly on Summer Street. Was the house turned, or the entrance moved? The bay window over the front door is a later addition. . CHESTNUT AND NORMAN STREETS CROSS #41 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. TORN DOWN 1968. A simple two-story, wooden house with a gambrel roof, this shape and type is characteristic of the Federal period; the location and style of the front pedimented portico on the gable end suggests a later remodelling, although it is possible that this is a "Colonial Revival house. " The front portion of the house appears to be in the 1897 Atlas . In the yard north of #41 there is a fine unchanged clapboard, hip roof 10 rectangular stable with strap hinges on the doors; this has also been demolished. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL BROAD and GEDNEY STREETS CROSS #47 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL This two-story, matched board house with a pitch roof is typical of the Greek Revival style with its front door in the gable end. The bay window is probably a later addition. #49 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This house is very similar to #47 except that it has pointed molded window pediments and a slightly different treatment of the front door entrance. 11i. SUMMER STREET EAST SIDE (odd numbers) continued #51 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL This three-story plus. a' hip roof.. wooden ►,,oube has two fine unchanged entrances, one on Summer Street and one on High, each of which has a pediment over the door. The house has three chimneys, two slender and tall and typical of the Federal period, and one which is shorter and square, indicative of an earlier origin. The clapboards have been covered with shingles. HIGH STREET CROSSES. #53 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL The date painted on the chimney of this two-story, wooden, gambrel roof house is 1756 . At the southern end of the house, which faces Summer Street, there is a lean-to ell. There are two chimneys and a simple pilastered entrance. In the yard there is a small pitch roof barn. The Visitor ' s Guide to Salem says that Hawthorne ' s wife, Sophia Peabody, was born here; this has not been verified. #55 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This simple two-story, clapboard house with a pitch roof probably still looks about as it did when it was built. The simple entrance framed by pilasters and an entablature is up a flight of steps . SUMMER STREET, WEST SIDE (even numbers) #10 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. three story plus This square /hip roof, wooden house looks earlier than its Greek Revival front portico. A former owner believes that it was built circa 1750 . The house has a small gambrel roof ell in the rear. #12 Summer Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. The scale of this house is big; it has three stories and large, three- sided bay windows three-stories high on either side of the front portico. #16 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER This three-story, end-to-the-street, wooden house with a side entrance 112. 'l • SUMMER STREET, WEST SIDE (even numbers) continued piazza up a flight of stairs is ix the Italianate style. #18 Summer Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD : FEDERAL. According to Samuel Chamberlain, this house was originally built in 1715 by John Chapman and extensively altered by Captain Tobias Davis in 1805, which accounts for its many Federal characteristics . It is a three- story, square, wooden house with hip roof, tall slender chimneys.. and a balustrade around the roof with decorative urns at corner posts . The carriage house in the yard was, prior to a fire a few years ago, decorated with swags taken from the stable of the Derby-Brookhouse house on the site of the Masonic Temple, designed by McIntire. According to "O1(7 .Salem Gardens, " the drooping horse chestnut tree in the yard was raised from seed brought from China in 1818. Early pictures show that the entrance area has been altered. CHESTNUT STREET BEGINS #34 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL Placed end-to-the-street, this is a two-story, wooden house with a pitch roof. The recessed central door in the yard is flanked with typical fluted pilasters . #36 Summer Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. A two-story, wooden gambrel roof house with an ell, this building has two side entrances, one on either side. The door on the south is modern unchanged, but the north entrance does not look original. Two/dormer � t has a windows have been added recently on the street side. large chimney. It would have been customary for a house parallel to the street to have had an entrance on the street in the 1750 ' s, but no exterior sign of such an entrance remains , if it ever existed. #40 Summer Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This large wooden, gambrel roof house is typical of the mid-eighteenth century, when it was built by Thomas Edema shipmaster. Fiske Kimball suggests in his book on McIntire that the front entrance with its swag, 113. Y i i SUMMER STREET, WEST SIDE (even numbers) continued medallions and reeded pilasters was added later by either Samuel McIntire or his son. Chamberlain tells the story of the tradition that when the house was finished Ithe family went to the roof and christened it "The Garden of Eden" with a bottle of champagne. BROAD STREET CROSSES. 114. 4 - i WARREN STREET, From Pickering to Essex Street Warren Street is not included in Bentley ' s 1796 list, but it is on Saunders ' Map of 1820 . Perley says that it was laid out in or 1806; befor(V the eastern end from Flint Street to Pickering Street was called Green Street as late as 1820. SOUTH SIDE (odd numbers} #5 Warren Street. (RATING: 1%0NE) PERIOD: CONTEMPORARY. This modern wooden building was probably built in the "Colonial" style since it has a pitch roof and lean-to, but the main entrance is in the lean-to portion of the house, where it would never have been. The house is only about 10 years old. #9 Warren Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This two-story, wooden house with a pitch roof appears to be of the Colonial Revival period, and yet the interior trim is Greek Revival. The general form and shape of the house date from the end of the 19th century, and the main entrance in the yard has typical Federal trim. Whether it is simple Colonial Revival, or a remodeled earlier house once is unknown. It has been said that it/housed people who worked in Chestnut Street homes. #11 Warren Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is .En oblong, wooden, three-story, hip roof building with an ell; its narrow- end is on the street. There is an unusual cornice under the eaves and a pilastered entrance in the side yard. (See #28 Chestnut Street. ) #13 Warren Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. A Greek Revival side piazza and entrance is the main feature of this two-story wooden, pitch roof, end-to-the-street house. #15 Warren Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. plus This is a simple two-story pitch roof, wooden house with a small ell in the rear, and a typical entrance on the street in the gable end. 115. Warren Street South Side (odd numbers) continued #17 Warren Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Plus This small one-story, pitch roof, wooden house has its gable end on the street. The entrance in the yard has a modified Greek key motif on the pilasters . There is an ell. Bay windows and dormers are later additions . #19 Warren Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story, wooden, pitch roof house is architecturally intact. The owner says the date 1839 has been found inside the ell. #21 Warren Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is also a two-story, pitch roof, wooden, end-to-the-street house which is architecturally intact; it has a side entrance with pilaster trim. #23 Warren Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, wooden, pitch roof, end-to-the-street house has several small ells and pilastered entrance. #25 Warren Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story, pitch roof, wooden house .appears to be a simple example of the Italianate style, characterized by simple brackets around the eaves and entrance on the street. FLINT STREET CROSSES. WARREN STREET NORTH SIDE (even numbers) Most of the buildings on the North Side of Warren Street are stables or garages attached to the houses on Chestnut Street. As such they are not rated, but briefly described in order from east to west. Th;z; is A hjodern brick garage behind #27 Chestnut Street, Colonial style. n ;;1d brick stable behind #29 Chestnut Street. This building was formerly two stories high. The second floor was removed after it was damaged during a recent hurricane. llo. WARREN STREET NORTH SIDE (even numbers) continued The brick garage with gables behind #31 Chestnut Street was probably built during the 1920 ' s . Most people think of the brick stable behind #37 Chestnut Street as being of the Federal period. It was built, however, after 1900 during the period when Salem had skilled Colonial Revival architects designing such buildings . #22 Warren Street. The two-story, wooden, pitch roof building behind #39 Chestnut Street was formerly a stable; now, the southern end on Warren Street has been converted into a house. Tha is Rear of #43 Chestnut Street. i wsmall brick garage built during the 1920 ' s or 1930 ' s. FLINT STREET CROSSES. #30 Warren Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is a large wooden, two-story,.Mansard roof house. Details include quoined corners, dormer windows, pedimented windows, and an imposing semi circular fanlight above the front door. . A Gibbs Surround is used to trim the entrance. Two front columns of the portico have been replaced with iron supports within the last few years. 117. CENTRAL STREET DISTRICT CENTRAL STREET - During the 1600 ' s the upper part of present-day Central Street led to the Town Landing which was probably west of the Burying Ground in the cove that was at the foot of the street. This cove was later known as Ingalls Cove. The authors of Old Naumkeaq say that Roger Conant, the leader of the first band of settlers, was thought to have landed near the foot of Central Street, but this made has never been proveh. This part of the South River was/a busy one b7: the seafaring Salemites for many years . As late as the Revolution, the Dolphin, a two-masted boat, was built in the cove at the foot of Central Street for Jonathan Poole. According to the authors of Old Naumkeaq 7 "she would often go out in the morning and return before night with a prize. " The Custom House occupied at least two different locations on this street. Grants of land on this lane were made as early as 1631. Anthony Dike, one of the grantees, was a member of the Salem Trading Company, which dealt in furs, along with Francis Johnson, Roger Conant and Peter Palfrey, and acted as master of the company vessel; Captured by the notorious pirate Dixie Bull, he survived, only to die on Cape Cod after being shipwrecked in 1638. His widow, Tabitha Dike, presumed married Nathaniel Pickman, the/builder of the Samuel Pickman house at Charter and Liberty Streets and founder of the famous Salem Pickman family. Pickman hireself lived near I the middle of, where Charter Street and Central Street meet. According to the Visitor' s Guide to Salem, Central Street was once known as Neff' s Lane; during the early 1700 ' s, it was called Ingalls Lane for a family that lived on the east side of the street. Felt says it was called Hanover Street by 1773 . The name was changed again around 1793 to Market Street, or the "street leading to the Market }" after a group of Salem merchants were granted land "below the Sun Tavern for the purpose of building 118. a Market" evidently about where the laundry drive-in now is. CENTRAL STREET (continued) i B. F. Browne wrote that people were slow to change their habits and the market was not a financial success; the building was later known as the Concert Hall and combined small shops on the first floor with a social gathering place on the second. This building, burned in 1844, was replaced by the Phoenix Building, the home of a famous oyster house. Bentley writing in 1808 said, "the Market House is moved easterly, the wings removed, the first floor remains as a store and the Assembly room unaltered. " The building had to be moved be- cause in 1808 Ezekiel Hersey Derby and others were allowed by the town to build the South Bridge across the South River to South Fields . The town bought it in 1810 and rebuilt it in 1812 . The South Bridge spurred the growth of South Salem along Lafayette Street and re- mained as late as the 1890 ' s . Central Street has been known by its present name since 1820. The lower part of the street west of the Burying Ground was formerly called Fish Street. Around 1800 it was a street of houses, ware- houses and wharves . Later the Fabens family of merchants had its wharf at the corner of Fish or lower Central Street and New Derby Street, then called Water Street. The 1902 edition of the Visitors Guide to Salem says that the statue of Father Matthew now on Hawthorne Boulevard was erected in 1887 over a spring at the foot of Central Street, and there are pictures which show it in front of the Police Station. Much of the material about this street is based on "Central Street and The Inaalls House" by Barbara Hayden, Essex Institute ,. Historical Collection, 1949. C711TRAL STREET a FAST SIDE (Odd Numbers) #1 Central Street (Also #`185-189 Essex Street. ) RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story, brick building at the eastern corner of Essex and Central Streets has a rounded corner at the top of which a brown 119. stone block is inscribed "Naumkeag Block. " It is Greek Revival in CENTRAL STREET (Odd Numbers) continued style and was probably built in the second quarter of the nineteenth century. Typical characteristics of the period and style are the . wide brick entablature, flat pilaster strips at the ends of the facades, the five-sided, molded brown stone window lintels, and full-length second story windows . There are five windows on the Essex Street side and four on Central Street, plus one rounded one in the rounded corner. Careful examination of the ground floor of the Central Street facade suggests thagit consisted of windows with brick work above, separated by granite piers and a granite strip at the second floor level. This granite has now been painted gray and looks more like stucco than granite. The Essex Street ground floor has been altered greatly and now consists of glass store fronts; originally it was undoubtedly similar to the Central Street facade. #3-7 Central Street. RATING: THREE, PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. The Newcomb Building, built in 1886, is a three-story, flat-roofed, brick structure, divided into three bays by projecting brick strips . It has an ornate brick cornice. Typical of the style of this period, the window sizes and their arrangement vary from floor to floor, and the brick building is trimmed with pieces of inlaid granite. The first floor has been converted into glass store fronts . According to B. F. Browne, William Appleton 13 the cabinet maker lived in the house whxh formerly stood in this location. It is also thought that Bowditch livedthere for a time. #11 Central Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD : FEDERAL (altered) This important building was designed by Charles Bulfinch and built in 1811 to serve as the home of the Essex Bank, It was the first bank erected in Essex County and is one of two Bulfinch buildings remaining in Salem; 120. CENTRAL" STREET (Odd Numbers) continued the other, the Ezekiel Hersey Derby House on Essex Street east of the Salem Five Cents Savings Bank, is scheduled to be demolished under the Urban Renewal Plan. For a time Charles Osgood, many of whose paintings and portraits may be seen at the Essex Institute, had a studio on the second floor.. The Salem Fraternity, the oldest boys ' club in America, acquired the building and remodeled it in 1899. Ernest Machado was their architect. Some time prior to that, the exterior modifications of the Federal portico seem to have taken place. Pictures at the Essex Institute give some idea of its grace and grandeur prior to the exterior alterations, and also reveal the presence of a large plaster medallion in the ceiling of one of the rooms which may still be there under the tin ceiling in the room now used aqa basketball court . Architecturally, the building is quite sophisticated with many details not usually seen in Salem. It is a two-story, plus pitch roof, brick (Flemish bond) building with a five-bay facade, set back from and above the street level. Horizontally the building is divided by four reeded stone belts, two the usual width and two narrower, between the foundation and the second floor level. The first floor windows are recessed and set in large reeded stone surrounds, above which there are sem,ircular fanlights . (The wooden tracery in these fanlights is probably a modification of the original; if not, it is very unusual in Salem. ) The second floor windows have narrow, reeded and splayed stone lintels . The area under the eaves has been much altered in appearance by the addition of ornate carved brackets in the Italianate style, and the main entrance is also now in the Italianate style and replaces what must have been a very imposing and handsome columned portico up a double flight of steps . 121. G o S CENTRAL STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers) continued The portico itself was on a raised granite base some thirty feet long and six or seven feet wide. The fine wrought iron stair rail and fence is original, and there are signs in the granite base of the portico that there were once iron railings at this level. #13-15 Central Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. Narrow clapboards, a large. central chimney and some early small- paned windows remain to testify to the age of this three-story plus pitch roof house facing Central Street. The first floor facade has been converted into store windows, but undoubtedly it once had a 18th century handsome central entrance. Under the eaves there is a typical/molded wooden cornice which breaks out over the third floor windows and is echoed in the molded window sills on both the second and third floors; probably the second floor windows once had similar molded window caps . At the north end of the house, there is an old lean-to ell in front of which a modern one-story shop has been added. Behind and south of the house there are other additions. Inside there is still a triple-run stairway, paneling and a large kitchen fireplace. Barbara Hayden ' s article "C?ntr.al Street and the Inaalls .House (Essex Institute Historical Collection 1949) , on which much of the material here reported about this street is based, says this house is on land once owned by Ephraim Ingalls and may be the building in which he opened "The London Coffee House" before the Revolution. If so, it was here that a group of Sons of Liberty gathered in early February 1775 to condemn the Stamp Act and to affix the stamps "to a long pole and carried thus between Heaven and Earth" to Town House Square where they were burned. On the other hand, the manuscript called Salem Estates and Localities at the Essex Institute says the house belonged to "Jos. Scott, Englishman, Mar'd Ingall ' s dau; and built this on his land" whichtendsto conflict with Miss Hayden ' s suggestion. Curwen ' s 122, list of houses built in Salem includes a house built in 1766 by CENTRAL STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers) continued Joseph Scott, which is probably this building. Perhaps further research will someday solve this question. CENTRAL STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) #4-10 Central Street and #191-195 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The brick building at the west corner of Central and Essex Streets which fronts on both streets used to be known as the "Central Building" ; today .most people refer to it, or at least to the Central Street facade, as the "Old Custom Houser . Robert Rantoul wrote that his father bought the property on which the building stands in 1782 and intended to construct a building there, but that he died on his next sea voyage and so was unable to carry out his plans. The property was sold in 1804 to William S. Gray and Benjamin Hathorne for $8500, and they built the present brick building. Fiske Kimball reported that he found no documentary evidence to prove that McIntire designed the building, but he attributed the design to him and felt certain that McIntire carved the eagle which formerly graced the main entrance on Central Street. Part of the building served as the Salem Custom House from 1805- 1807 and again from 1813 - 1819. It also housed the books of the newly- formed Salem Athenaeum in 1810. In 1807, Bentley wrote, "This evening the visitation of the Deputy Grand Master of Masons was expected. . . The Lodge has a new hall in the New Brick building, corner of Essex and Market Street, on the west side on entering Market Street. It was handsomely decorated . . . . floors spread with carpets . . . .I had never seen the place. " In 1818 he wrote, "Hon. B. W. Crowninshield called to upon me to go/the apartments of a painter named Frothingham, from Charlestown. There we saw General Dearborn, Stuart ' s and his own, and several citizens of Salem and one of Bowditch. " A few days later he wrote of going "to Mr. Frothingham' s at the Central buildings, as by agreement with the late Secretary of the Navy on the 20th and by 123. • s t ' a i CENTRAL STREET - '"JEST SIDE (dVEN numbers) continued direction of the Painter and had my first sitting. Here I found the late Secretary Pickering and others, and Mr. Frothingham came to spend the evening with me. . . . " An account in the Essex Institute, Historical Collection in 1863 notes that James R. Buffum used to keep a book and stationery store on this corner where in 1863 Stephen Osborne kept a hat and fur store. The building is three stories high with a hip. roof and slightly projecting central bay with a pediment in which there is a semi- circular fanlight. The bricks are laid up in Flemish bond, and the cornice consists of a raised strip of brick three bricks wide which matches the belt at the second floor level. The stone lintels of the second story windows are reeded and splayed with double keystones. There have been exterior alterations at the first and second story level, but early photographs show the building with the main entrance on Central Street framed by solid three-quarter round columns, above which there was the carved McIntire eagle, which is now the property of the Essex Institute. There used to be a Palladian window above the entrance on the second floor level. 124. CHARTER-LIBERTY STREET DISTRICT CHARTER - LIBERTY STREET This area contains many Salem landmarks, the most important of which is the Charter Street Busing Ground, which was called the Bury- ing Point. The most important buildings in the neighborhood are the Grimshaw House, Nathan Pierce House (Old Salem Hospital) and the Pickman House. This cluster of interesting and varied buildings is surrounded by less important houses of varying ages, nearly all of whichdoor could contribute to the environment of the major buildings and the Bur,ing Point. LIBERTY STREET The primary economic importance of the waterfront in the early days in Salem seems to have determined the location of its first streets . Present day Liberty Street was laid out as far as Charter Street by Major William Hathorne sometime before 1661, when Samuel Pickman con- tinued it to the river. Phillips says there was a cove at the foot of Liberty Street and that John Cromwell and Peter Osgood had wharves there by 1700 . In 1662, the town set apart a place for "graving vessels" at the foot of the street. In 1715, the town selectmen set out grants to Samuel Browne, Jonathan Ashby, Walter Price and James Lindall to the "flats below and to the south of the burying point if they would wharfe and secure said burying place. . . allowing room for a convenient highway for horse and cart. " Two years later the selectmen granted each of the above-named more land back from the flats "andif said (grantee) will make apood stonewall to secure the bank from tumbling down he hath liberty to run ten feet further northward into the bank. " This street running along the shore at the foot of Liberty Street was called Water Street, and a retaining wall south of the Burying Point is not a recent innovation. (See also Charter Street. ) Periey says the street was called the lane next to John Pitman ' s in 1670, and within a few years it became known as the Burying Point Lane. The success of the Revolution was evidently celebrated by changing 1250 LIBERTY STREET (continued) the name to Liberty Lane in 1789. Felt records that it was paved in 1799. June 22, 1816, Bentley wrote about a large fire at the southern end of the street as follows : "We were awakened in the morning by the cry of fire just after 4 A. M. . . it began in a barn near a Bakehouse, belonging to Jeduthan Upton, formerly in Liberty Street between Charter and Water Street (1966 New Derby Street ), The barn was near a Distillery formerly belonging to John Norris & now to his heirs. The Distillery was at work & (the fire) soon communicated itself to the spirits, which gave a wonderful fury to the flame. . .The fire had its first rage in the Distillery & it closed with a terrific blaze & thick smoak of several hundred barrels of tar in the cellar at the southeast corner of the Burying Ground. " The next day he reported that the "Selectmen are widen- ing Liberty Street this day.," and finished his lengthy account of build- ings burned, looting, etc. , by saying that the . "Whole cost carefully estimated, 30, 000 dollars . " Bentley ' s list of buildings burned included a distillery & store, cabinet maker ' s shop, a sail loft, a tar cellar, a shoemaker ' s shop as well as many dwelling houses and tenements . Fortun- ately, the fire was more or less confined to the area at the very southern end of the street and around the corner on then Water Street. Early lists of who lived where and the first city directory show that Liberty Street was the home of many cabinetmakers and carpenters as well as mariners . As late as 1800, the Ashbya were still conducting a ship-building business at the foot of the street, and Samuel Buffum and John Howard, famous Salem sail-makers, had their business on the street for many years . LIBERTY STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) #20 Liberty Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: 17th CENTURY. This small clapboard house, now disguised under a later Mansard roof, was built about 1660, and is therefore one of the most important buildings 126. • f LIBERTY STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) continued in Salem. Built when the elements were more important than they are now, it faces the sun and the South River and largely ignores . thetwo present streets beside and behind it. The enclosed and pedimented entrance porch is in the yard. The house was built about 1660, for Samuel Pickman, a mariner, and member jof what was to become one of Salem' s leading families . The exceedingly fine carving on the interior frame of the house was probably the work of Nathaniel Pickman, his father, who was undoubtedly one of the best builders in town, since he built a house at Rial Side or Salter ' s Point in Beverly for John Winthrop, Jr., a few years earlier. Nathaniel Pickman came to Salem from Bristol, England, in 1639, with three young sons, Nathaniel, Samuel and John, and within a few years he married the widow Tabitha Dike. ( °ee Central Street.) The next owner of the house was Dr. Samuel Gahtman (also spelled Gathman or Ghatman)J who lived here until about 1750 . He came to Salem from Hamburg, Germany iand was a chirurgeon. Little is known of him except that while on a voyage to England to testify in a trial, his ship was taken by pirates and he was carried into France. On his return to Salem, he- petitioned the General Court for reimbursement for the loss of "clothes, books, chirurgeon ' s chest and instruments to a considerable value. " The Honorable Benjamin Lynde, who acquired the property about 1750, probably never lived there; the Lynde house was north of the Pickman House on the corner of Liberty and Essex Street. Although Benjamin Lynde did not "sleep here,, it is interesting to note that Benjamin Lynde, like his father of the same name, was Chief Justice of the Massachusetts Superior Court, and presided at the famous trial of the British soldiers after the Boston Massacre. In 1799, the property was bought by Captain Woodbridge Grafton of 127. LIBERTY STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) continued the old Salem family. B. F. Browne ' s reminiscences state that "A Mrs . Grafton removed to Charter Street, with whom boarded Mr. Corne, an Italian, and who became somewhat celebrated as a marine painter, and who attempted unsuccessfully to introduce the use of tomatoes among our people. " This is the same Michael Felice Corne who painted many of the ship pictures now in the Peabody Museum. Bentley wrote of him, "Mr. Corne continues to enjoy his reputation as a painter of ships . In every house we see the ships of our harbour delineated for those who navigate them. Painting, before unknown, is now common among our children. " The house now belongs to Historic Salem, Inc. #22 Liberty Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This three-story, square, wooden house has a hip roof and a delicate frontispiece or entrance of the style usually associated with the Federal period. According to Curwin ' s list,, it was built in 1762 by Captain Jonathan Peele who bought the land (formerly Dr. Gahtman' s orchard) and the right to use the well from Benjamin Lynde in 1758 . Bentley, talking about the fire, said it "desolated the whole as far as late Jonathan Peale, now his Son-in-law, John Dabney. " Dabney was born in 1752 and was a printer, bookseller and postmaster of Salem for more than twenty years. After his death the house was sold to William Goodhue. #22R Liberty Street RATING: THREE : PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This unobtrusive wooden building in the yard of #22 is of an indeterminate style and period. The view of it from the Charter Street Burying Ground is quite pleasant. Beyond #22 Liberty Street there is a -Narrow strip of the Charter Street Burying Ground which runs out to Liberty Street. According to Perley this was the entrance from 1661, when Liberty Street was extended southerly from Charter Street to provide better access to the cemetery . 128. r LIBERTY STREET -. WEST SIDE (Even numbers) continued Prior to that the entrance had been more or less by the way of present-day lower Central Street. Perley goes on to say that the Liberty Street entrance was shut off in 1767, when the town acquired now the land. where the entrance/is on Charter Street. Bentley, writing July 17, 1818, says: "The entrance east is closed by the lots on the New street, Liberty Street. " His meaning is not very clear since Liberty Street was not then new. Not included in the area is #24 Liberty Street beyond the old entrance to the cemetery. It was probably built shortly after the 1816 fire, and is said to have been the home of Henry Tibbetts who sailed on two trips of the privateer America during the War of 1812, and was a prisoner at Dartmoor, England. LIBERTY STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers) #25 Liberty Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This wooden, one-and-a-half story, pitch roof building has a recessed front entrance on the gable end and is typical of the simple, small house of this period. A resident of the house says it was once used as a children ' s . hospital when it was part of the complex of buildings owned by the Old Salem Hospital. #25A Liberty Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE (Fr;�FRl;L) ? The unadorned, wooden, pitch roof house in the yard beyond #25 Liberty Street is actually attached to the gambrel roof house at #33 Charter Street by an ell which joins them together. It is covered with siding and there are no architectural details from which to date it. Its size, shape and chimneys suggest the Federal period. It does not appear in the 1874 Atlas, but since it is in the yard, this may have been a natural omission, or perhaps it was moved to this location at some later time. 129. + e CHARTER STREET According to Perley, the oldest part of present-day Charter Street was a short spur running in an easterly direction from present- day Liberty Street to the home of Captain Richard More during the 1600 ' s. It was extended to Walnut Street (the western half of Haw- thorne Boulevard) shortly after Long (or Union Wharf) was built about 1730, when it was called the street leading from the burying point lane to/the long wharf. For many years the section between Liberty Street and the Boulevard was known as Vine Street, and the eastern end which-curved from 19alnut Street to Derby Street was called Neptune Street. The western end of the street was laid out in 1767: and was called Charter Street by 1794. In 1853, the three different streets were given the common name of Charter Street. After Hawthorne Boule- vard was completed in the early 1900 ' s, the eastern end (Neptune Street) was incorporated. into the southeastern section of the boulevard. Like Liberty Street, Charter Street has been home to its share of important merchants and seafaring men, such as Nathan Pierce and Jonathan Haraden, as well as mariners, tailors, shoemakers and cabinet- makers . Thomas Needham, Nathaniel Very and John Chipman lived or had cabinet makers ' shops there; not to mention Henry Hubon whose cabinet- . \l " �f making shop was at the Sign _of the, Bedpost. #23 and #25 Charter Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. These two matching houses are .gable end to the street and face each other across a narrow, common yard. They are both two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) houses with very simple central doorways in the yard. According to the 1851 Map of Salem, S . Emery lived at #23 at that time; probably this is the same Emery who sold nautical instruments and devised the handsome compass rose which is familiar to visitors to the Peabody Museum. He is also thought to have lived at the southwest corner of Federal and Monroe Streets at one time. 130. • p G 4 d CHARTER STREET (Odd numbers) (continued) #27 Charter Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof, wooden (siding) house is set back an from the street and has/enclosed central front entrance porch with pilasters and a dentil cornice at the base of the pediment above. The detailed cornice under the eaves is typical of its period. In the January 1939 Essex Institute Historical Collection, Mr. Neal reminisced that Nathan Pierce, a merchant, built and lived in this house before he built #31 in 1805 . After that his daughter, Mrs . Isaac Needham, lived here and the 1851 Atlas shows a Mrs. Needham at this address . Perhaps she was the mother of Thomas Needham, the cabinetmaker. The 1851 Atlas shows a lane running between #2.7 and #31 Charter Street down to New Derby Street in about the same location where Perley shows one on his map of this part of Salem in 1700 . Perhaps it was once a busy passageway to Joseph Peabody ' s wharf and warehouse below on the South River, but it is long since gone, incorporated in. the spacious yards between the two houses . #31 Charter Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL_ Much has been written about this fine, three-story, hip roof, brick i building, which was erected in 1805, according to the list in the Gazette in 1806 . Browne ' s recollections state that Nathan Peirce, tobacconist and successful merchant, built it. Bentley wrote of him on May 25, 1812; "Mr. Nathan Pierce, Merchant, act. 63, buried in this town last evening, was born at Newbury Port and came a young man without property into it in the business of a Tobacco Manufacturer. . . in the eastern part of the town. By his diligence he accumulated & soon became possessed of property at sea and died possessed of a handsome estate. . . .He had a strong mind, and all the firm virtues, one of the favorite sons of Nature and living good. " Pierce owned wharves on the water below his house as well as other property in the 131. CHARTER STREET (Oddnumbers) (continued) area. Pierce ' s daughter, Eliza, married Captain Stephen Phillips, after his first wife died, and according to Rantoul '' s biography of Hon. Stephen H. Phillips in the History of Essex County, the latter was born in the "family mansion. . . .now a City Hospital, August 16, 1823 . " He grew up to become Attorney General of Massachusetts when he was thirty- four years old and later Attorney -General in Honolulu. Later this was the home of Timothy Bryant another successful Salem Merchant. In 1873 : the building was taken over by the Salem Hospital using funds given by John Bertram and other generous citizens, and remained so until the fire in 1914. Architecturally the exterior of this house is very similar to the Pingree house on Essex Street which was designed by Samuel McIntire for John Gardner about 1805, when this was built. It is a first-class example of the architecture of the early 1800 ' s with its Flemish bond brick work, four-brick high keystoned lintels and semi, circular portico,, which has been converted into a bay window, but could easily be restored. From the cupola atop the house, Nathan Pierce could easily have looked down the harbor for one of his returning vessels . #33 Charter Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. It is difficult to date this two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden house without seeing its interior because the front door which was undoubtedly on its long side originally has been moved to the street or gable end of the house. It was probably built during the latter part of the 18th century. #35 - #39 Charter Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL (?) This large two-story, plus Mansard roof building was probably built during the first half of the 19th century for commercial purposes . Later, perhaps when the Pickman House roof was altered, it seems possible that the original gambrel roof was converted to a Mansard. 132, • + r. a y CHARTER STREET - Odd nu mbers (continued) Itg history is not known; it may have been a cabinet -maker' s shop, sail loft Ior the warehouse of one of the merchants who lived nearby. LIBERTY STREET CROSSES, #20 Liberty Street (See Liberty Street) #45 Charter Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: Ca. 1900 . This solid-looking, three-story, flat-roofed, brick building is crowded between its neighbors on either side. It is similar in style to other triple deckers in Salem and has a three-story piazza at one end. #47 Charter Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: Ca. 1850. No. 47 is a small. wooden, clapboard house with a pitch roof of an undetermined period. It appears to have been built in the middle of the 19th century. It is typical of many simple Salem homes and very com- patible with its neighbors. #51 Charter Street THE CHARTER STREET BURYING GROUND RATING: ONE: PERIOD: 17th CENTURY. This is the oldest burying ground and one of the oldest in the nation; it was in use prior to 1637. ItA name was originally the Burying Point because it was on a bluff overlooking the South River, which has since been filled in. In it are buried many early settlers including Captain Richard Morep whose stone is the only known one still existing of a Mayflower passenger. Other stones in the ground mark the graves of such important people as Cotton Mather ' s brother, Nathaniel, Samuel McIntire, and Governor Simon Bradstreet, a Salem resident, who was the last of the early settlers to serve as governor of this small colony. He not only played many prominent roles in the government of the colony from its early days until the end of the 17th century, but his first was wife was Anne Bradstreet, the poetess, and his second the widow of Joseph Gax*ier who died fighting the Indians. It was while he was married to his second wife that he lived in Salem Bentley comments in . 1803, that the "practice of erecting grave- stones was less frequent in Salem than in Boston. Very few were 1330 erected in the first hundred years after the settlement, and the number CHARTER STREET - Odd numbers (continued) never was large till a Stone Cutter lived in Town. " Whether the very first settlers, such as Lady Arbella�were buried here is not recorded, but Perley assumes that they were; others suggest that they were buried Planter's Field southeast of the end of Bridge in Plan e Street near the g bridge. Undoubtedly many of the oldest stones have disappeared over the years . According to Perley the original entrance to the Burying Point was via Fish Street (the southern end of Central Street ,), Later when Liberty Street (Burying Point Lane) was opened down to the banks of the South River in 1669, the entrance was moved to that street, where it remained until the western part of Charter Street was opened. As was mentioned in the reference to the cemetery under with Liberty wa stone retaining Street, the south bank was supported it g wall many years ago. In 1818, Bentley reports that "A stone wall separates it (the Burying Point) from the buildings below. . .A high fence is upon the eastern side, and they are fixing the stone work on which is to stand a high fence on the west side. These Burying Grounds have been thoroughfared for the inhabitants not to say em- ployed for other uses . " One of the earliest and most interesting "other uses" was the town grant in 1637 that allowed John Horne (Orne) to have a windmill upon the burial place. In 1680, the Selectmen leased "unto Mr. John Cromwell, the hearbadge (pasturage) of the towns land at the Burying Poynt for seaven yeares from the date hereof. . . .the town to make a fence to Inclose the Same. . .Always provided that the towne hath the same liberty for Buriall as before. " #53 Charter Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. been Despite the many alterations which have/made. to this square, wooden, hip roofed house, it is of major importance because it was the home of Sophia Peabody when young Nathaniel Hawthorne was courting her, and Is the setting of Hawthorne ' s story, "Dr. Grimshaw' s Secret. " Later, the house seems to have been the first home of the Children ' s Friend 134• CHARTER STREET - Odd numbers (continued) Society before it finally acquired the house on Carpenter Street. the Early guide books credit/Reverend Michael Carleton with promoting this house as a Place to care for seamen ' s orphans. The original frontispiece of the house may be seen at the rear of the Essex Institute, where there are also pictures of the house before it was modified. According to the Visitor ' s Guide to Salem (1902 edition) , the house was moved back a few feet from the street in 1896 in order to widen the sidewalk. 135• CROMBIE STREET DISTRICT CROMBIE STREET --From Essex Street to Norman Street. According to Duncan Phillips, Crombie Street was once a creek which ran down to Norman and Creek streets, draining the swampy area around Sewall Street. It takes its name from Benjamin Crombie, Proprietor of a tavern at The Sign of a Ship, which was on what is now the western corner of Crombie and Essex Streets . Perley says that Crombie laid out about three quarters of the present street from Essex street in 1805 through the lands attached to the tavern and that it was continued to Norman street a few years later. Bentley reports that this vicinity was once known as Curwen ' s field. EAST SIDE (odd numbers) Crombie Street Church. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. The Crombie Street Church was built as a theatre in 1828 by J. W. Barton, proprietor of Barton ' s Hotel. Barton' s father had bought the tavern from Benjamin Crombie and others. The theatre had a successful first season, but as Nathaniel Hawthorne said of its second year, it was "closed for want of encouragement. " In 1832 it was turned over to the pastor of the Branch Church, which was split by internal dissensions, and it has remained a church ever since. There was a fire in the building in 1934, after which the interior was entirely rebuilt in a handsome and appropriate style. The exterior has re'a4n"�ined archi- tecturally intact. It is a brick building with pitch roof and is gable- end to-the -street with a recessed entrance on either side. The facade is relieved by plain projecting pilaster strips and sunken blind arcades, all carried out in brick. Three arched second-floor windows further lighten the large brick building. 136. • + e s • CROMBIE STREET, EAST SIDE (odd numbers) continued #9 Crombie Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL(modified) This three-story, brick mansion was the home of Joel Bowker. According to a letter from his great granddaughter, Ruth Farnham, family tradition is that Bowker moved into 9 Crombie Street in 1807 and bought it two years later. Mrs . Farnham has an 1824 deed which mentions the brick barn. Mr. Bowker came to Salem in 1796 and worked for "Billy" Gray, him e who lent money to set himself up asa merchant. Mrs . Farnham also writes, "Mother has told us that there were changes, unfortunate ones, in modernizing things. The unattractive double front door replaced the original green door which is now on the west side of the barn going into the court. " The house does not appear to be as early as this strong family tradition indicates because of the brown stone trim around the windova and door. Close scrutiny shows, however, that the bricks are laid in Flemish bond which is characteristic of the Federal period and that the bricks around the windows have been cut down which indicates that the windows were lengthened sometime after the house was built. The house has a hiproof with entrance in the yard. The brown stone trim at the entrance and around the windows is similar in style to that on the Public Library on Essex Street (1855) . There is an ell or barn and attached greenhouse in the rear.. The spacious garden beside the house has long been famous for its fruitfulness. An iron fence separates it from the street and sidewalk going into the house. 137+ CROMBIE STREET EAST SIDE (odd numbers) continued #13 Crombie Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: . FEDERAL. This long, narrow, two-story, wooden- end-to-the-street house with its pitch roof is very simple outside . It has only a pedimented enclosed porch entrance near the street, a very simple door further back, and a few windows to break the long expanse of clapboards. It shows no signs of having been remodeled. Mrs. Farnham (see #9 Crombie Street) reports that a book she owns tells that Henry Peabody, a successful Salem merchant, was born in 1B37 at 13 Crombie Street and shows an interior view of the house. #15 Crombie Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, wooden house is oblong, and faces Norman Street; it has an ell and two Federal chimneys. Outside stairs have been added for safety ' s sake, and trellis work takes the place between its windows of the more usual blinds. CROMBIE STREET WEST SIDE (even numbers) #10-12-14 Crombie Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is an excellent example of a wooden :double or triple house in the Greek Revival style, which has not been remodeled, at least on the outside. The fretwork trim around the two recessed front doors end on the entablature under the eaves is typical of the period, as is the high granite foundation. There are two chimneys. The long facade is directly on the street. #16 Crombie Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a simple two-story, pitch-roofed wooden house with its gable end to the street. It has a typical pilastered entrance in the yard and three slender chimneys along the rear. 138. CROMBIE STREET, WEST SIDE even numbers continued #18 Crombie Street. RATING. TWO., PERIOD ; FEDERAL. This small two-story, gambrel-roofed house is directly on the street. The present owner suspects that the house may have been moved to its present location ; certainly, the Location of the front pilastered entry on the gable end is not typical of the Federal period and suggests that some changes have been made in has and the house. The house/a large chimney /a small ell in the rear, and it is shingled. 139• OLD TOWN HALL DISTRICT THE OLD TOWN HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT This area might also be referred to as the First Church area because that historic site is also enclosed within the boundaries which run from the southeast corner of Washington and Essex Streets along Essex Street to include the building east of Derby Square and both sides of the Square to Front Street including the buildings on either side of the southern end of Derby Square. This compact area contains five brick buildings of the Federal Period (1793-1830) and five which were built within the next fifty years. Together they represent the best remaining small area of Federal Period commercial buildings in downtown Salem; in fact it is the only group of such buildings. There are other scattered downtown buildings such as the Bowker Building (Salem Rubber Co. ) which are perhaps individ- ually more important, but the unbroken brick fabric of this group, and its continuity, architecturally and historically, make. this the single most important commercial group of buildings in Salem. SOME HISTORY OF THE AREA These ten buildings are directly southeast of Town House Square, the center of Salem since Washington Street was laid out four rods wide in 1629 intersecting Essex Street, which Sidney Perley believed was an Indian path along the ridge of Salem peninsula; they are on the now gentle slope of land running down to what was formerly the South River. Salem historians commonly agree that this section of the South River shore was the first developed waterfront area of Salem and remained dominant until the Derby Wharf area superseded it the end of the Eighteenth Century. It continued to be active for some years after the development of the Derby Square commercial area. 140 — r THE OLD TOWN HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT . . . Page 2 Town House Square, Washington Street and Essex Street The location of the first church and town hall in this square made this the heart of old Salem as it remains the core of the city today. In the town hall which stood just west of the church the Stamp Act was denounced in 1770, and the Provincial Con- gress was formed in 1774 after which it adjourned to Concord. In the middle of the Square there was a Watch House surmounted by the life-size figure of soldier bearing the date 1712. Southern Washington Street was referred to as Essex Street in the 1773 report of a street-naming committee, but by 1796 Bentley says it was called Washington Street. The site of the old Town Pump of which Hawthorne wrote is marked by an unnoticed stone in the middle of Washington Street in front of Daniel Low' s and is usually hidden by cars . Perhaps some way could be devised to call attention to it. At the bottom of Washington Street where the Riley Plaza now is, there was a cove where there were wharves and shipbuilders until it was filled in about 1830 when the railroad first came to Salem. In 1839 when the tunnel was built, the southern part of Washington Street was widened. B. F. Browne writing in 1863 remi- nisced that when he was young before the Derby Square Market was built, country people for miles around used to bring produce to Washington Street, the common market place. When winter snows covered the ground, people came on sleighs from as far away as New Hampshire, Vermont and Maine to buy and sell . Essex Street quickly became as important as Washington Street as the main thoroughfare from one end of the town to the other. The section east of the Square was called King Street in 1773, but by 1796 Bentley refers to Essex Street as run- ning "through the town." This portion was paved in 1792 with stones from Norman's Woe, Bentley reported. 141 — THE OLD TOWN HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT . a . Page 3 BUILDINGS - SOUTH SIDE OF ESSEX, STREET #231 Essex Street (Daniel Low's) -- Federal Period, Modified about 1875. This large, two-story, square, brick building dominates Town House Square. It now has (1966) two, flat-topped towers, one on either end of the west side and a pitch roof on the main portion of the building. Earlier pictures show the towers with pointed tops. The trim around the window openings on the west and north sides has been Gothicized by the addition of granite blocks accentuating the pointed arched windows. The second floor windows are very high continuing up what would normally be two-stories. The wooden cornice and modillion blocks and the east and south sides give an idea of what the building looked like once. The present structure was the fourth church, built in 1826 and designed by Willard and Banners according to the Salem Gazette that year. These are almost surely Solomon Willard, designer of the Bunker Hill Monument, and Peter Banners of Boston. An account by Charles Archer in the Salem News in 1922 tells the story. "The oxi.g.inaK building, .the wa2X6 o6 which stand .today as .the main poAtion o6 .the pAesent edi6.iee was pnacticaUy squaAe. It had no .toweu untiit. . . 1877. TheAe were tittle yoAds enetosed by iron 6enee6 64om which the church dooAs opened, one at the western coxneA on Washington Stxeet and one at the eastern coAneA on Higginson SquaAe. There were gable ends on .the north and south sides. On .the Essex StAeet %xont were three windows and p,itas.te,2e in paW, too on each coAneA and two in .the centre be- ,ween .the windows. when the towers were added on .the Washington Street 6xont .these pitastexs weAe Aemoved and a 6Ae6h 6xont o6. one course o6 bAi.ck to cornu pond to .the new brick in the -toweU was tai.d against the oCd watl." When the building was built the second floor was planned to be the church and so it continued until 1923; three shops occupied the first floor. Archer says that William Bowditch kept a crockery and glassware shop in the east on Higginson Square, Moses Goldthwaite sold dry goods and carpetings in the middle, and Caleb Webster sold hats, caps and furs in the western shop. Webster's son, Edward, later used to "spAead his bu66aZo hobes and beaA skins on the .ikon pal-ing6 o6 the .tittle chuAeh yards on Washington Street." 142 - THE OLD TOWN HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT . . . Page 4 The present church building is on the site of the first church which was established in 1629; two of its earliest pastors, Roger Williams and Hugh Peters , were later punished for their views. Williams, of course, is famous for having been Hugh Peters h Massachusetts Ba Colon and u banished, not by Salem, but by order of the Y Y. 9 after returning to England to promote fishing and commerce for the young colony, was eventually drawn and quartered in 1660 for his role in Cromwell 's uprising. HIGGINSON SQUARE BEGINS. Named for either John or Francis Higginson, both of whom were pastors of the First Church during the 1600's. #221-225 Essex Street (Clark & Friends's) -- Third Quarter (19th C. ) The Hale Building was standing by 1874 and is the only Salem example of a cast iron front. It is five stories high and the sides and rear are brick. In 1848 James Bogardus patented his invention for a system of prefabricated cast iron and glass facades, generally five stories high. There are many examples in New York City dating from about 1857. This ingenious invention was the forerunner of the sky- scraper, but was not recognized as such at the time. Mr. Bogardus realized many years before anyone else that a building could be strong enough to carry the burden of as many as five stories and at the same time provide very large windows. Most of the cast iron facades were made by the Badger Iron Works in New York. They usually bear the maker's name somewhere on the facade. #219 Essex Street (Naumkeag Bank) -- Colonial Revival This large brick building is a very fine example of the architecture around the turn of the century and reflects the marked interest in the earlier colonial architecture of America. It is three stories high with a wooden cornice of modillions and dentils and a balustrade about the eaves. Its large arched windows and fan-lighted front doorway make it a goodtransition building between the Old Town Hall and the iron- fronted Hale Building. The north and east sides bear the name of three earlier banks thus telling some of the present banks history. This building took the place of an earlier brick building, more or less similar to the strip across Derby Square, which was burned. DERBY SQUARE BEGINS #213-215 Essex Street. See below #1-3-7-9 Derby Square. THE STORY OF DERBY• SQUARE Derby Square was the site of the home of Col . William Browne, a Tory and leading Salem citizen, who�fled during the Revolution and later became the Governor of Bermuda. It was here in August 1774 that Gov. Gage ordered the selectmen to 143 - THE OLD TOWN HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT . . . Page 5 adjourn a forbidden meeting of freemen choosing delegates to a county convention and called the 57th Regiment to march from the Willows. The Massachusetts legislature confiscated his property and conveyed it to Elias Hasket Derby in 1784, who built his famous mansion here, only to die shortly after its completion. Derby's heirs, Benjamin Pickman, Jr. and John Derby, demolished the mansion and offered the middle of the area, 16,500 square feet, to the inhabitants of Salem for a combination Town Hall and Market House in 1816; the offer was accepted and the building quickly erected. #1-3-7-9 Derby Square (East side) This row of attached brick buildings running from Essex Street to the northern end of the Town Hall was built by Benjamin Pickman, Jr. and John Derby, about the time Derby Square was laid out. (The description of the land offered the town, mentions buildings already existing on the east side of the Square on Essex Street.) The buildings are two stories high, have pitched roofs and are divided into three by two fire walls. The brickwork is Flemish Bond, an expensive way to lay bricks, which was to go out of style within a very few years; part of what is undoubtedly a con- tinuous dental cornice made up of rounded shaped bricks has been covered up, but the stone slab inserted at the second story level of the corner of the northern-most building'still shows the incised words "Derby Square" picked out in gold. Old photographs show that the first floor windows and doors once had rounded tops and fanlights similar to those on the Old Town Hall. Some of the second floor windows have been closed. There are two round windows in the gable end of the southern building. Behind the middle block on its western side there is visible part of a wooden, pitch roof building, which was evidently incorporated into the strip. When Pickman and Derby divided the land that remained in their possession in Derby Square in 1817 they agreed that they, their heirs and assigns "wilt not and 6hatt not at any .time heAea6teA erect any .tenement ort edifice ob any otheA maten.iat .than bn.i,ck oh stone" in Derby Square. TOWN HALL AND MARKET HOUSE AREA Old Town Hall -- Federal Period The Old Town Hall was built by the town of Salem in 1816 and is an excellent example of a Federal Period public building. It is an oblong, belted brick building with a pitch roof. The gable ends on the.north and south have pediments accented by a wooden cornice with modillion blocks. A small cupola in the middle of the ridgepole is visible from the distance. All the doorways and windows have semi-circular tops, but the recessed first floor windows have the usual kind of fanlight and are shorter than the second story windows which have a more delicate tracery in the semi-circular tops. At the southern end of the building there are three entrances each up a flight of granite steps, whereas there is only one entrance at the northern end and it is at 144 - THE OLD TOWN. HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT . . . Page 6 sidewalk level. The building has much variety in its treatment of the different elements, but it is all very similar, so that the eye is busy comparing one element with another to see if it is the same or a little different. There is a Palladian window above the central door at each end and a fanlight in each pediment. Felt's Annals say that in September 1634 the General Court "g4ant Salem .the pAivi Lege o6 keeping a weekly market on Wednesday." Salem's market was an open- air affair largely centered on Washington Street. An apparently unsuccessful build- ing was put up at the bottom of Central Street the end of the 18th century, but did not catch on. The story of the Old Town Hall can be told in Bentley's words begin- ning with his reaction to Derby's demolishing Browne's mansion; in May 9, 1795 he calls it "a strange event .in this Town, it being .the 6iut sacrti6.Lce o6 a decent buitd.ing eveA made, to convenience on pteasuAe. . ." When Derby's mansion was removed he wrote Nov. 20, 1,815 "It was the beat 6ini6hed, most elegant and beet constructed House I eveA saw. . .The heiAs coutd not agree to occupy .it and the convenience o6 the spot bon other. buitdings brought a sentence o6 deetAuction on .it and be6o4e the wohtd .it was de6t4oyed 6Aom .its 6oundati.on6." May 20, 1816 "A Town meeting to heaA pnopos.itions made by the Denby heiu Aespeeting the sate o6 the 6tat6 6 whaA6 6oR a Market Laying below the tate site o6 the Mansion house o6 Etias Hasket DeAby, Removed with a pu4pose to build 6to4e6 6 open a stheet down to the tot o66e4ed to the Town". . .August 15, 1816 "The Co4ne4 Stone o6 the new MaAhet house is taid, 9 the two sto4es upon Essex Street ane nea4ty up. Much ea4th is 4emoved towa4ds the whaAj. . ." Nov. 23, 1816 "This day is appointed 6o4 the Sate o6 the Stalls in the New Ma4ket, 9 the .intended Aegutations aAe communi- cated. The MoAket house is without atyte E the o4den. without, not that within. An open shed is proposed on the whax6. . ." Nov. 25, 1816 "This day was the jiut expeA- .iment upon the Maxket house. The Stalls we4e abundantty supplied 6 atmoet every person pu4chased something. . .The exultation seemed genenat." Dec. 5, 1816 "The Town has gRanted out doo4 Stands to be erected on the Land south o6 the MaAket_ House." Jan. 30, 1817 ". . .ata4m o6 6ixe. . .6Rom the absence o6 the man who had in change the 145 - THE OLD TOWN HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT . . . Page 7 New MaAket house. Wood piled upon ,the stove burnt E 6eU upon the 6toon E .injun,i,ed .it E might soon have put .it .in 6tames. Two stoves ane now to be erected at each end o6 the Market house with two 6unne2s to pass the Length o6 the house to keep the meat 6nom 6neezing." On June 17, 1816 Bentley wrote that the "bu.i.edings around the market ane nis.ing bast and the HaU o6 the Market House .is to be 6.itted bon. the Pnea.Cdent'z Visit, which wiU pnobabty be the 6.inat use o6 it, a6ten .it is 6.inizhed." Two days later he wrote "PnepaAing bon the Pne6ident, ten chosen g.iAa to pnepane the Town HaU." July 8 he said "The HaU was 6e6tooned very hand6omety and .iUum.inated with ptea ing e66ect. The green beat by day, the gotd by night."' (This reception was for President Monroe. ) The Salem Gazette on Nov. 26, 1816 was kinder to the architects than Bentley calling it a "neat specimen o6 oAchdtectuAe." The story goes on to say the street through the square ",is a convenient de6cent, hand6omeey paved; and .in nemov- .ing the top o6 the gAound, about 24,000 beet o6 tand has been made on the South RLveA, giving room bon. many 6untheA conveniences .in ouA maAheting, besides what .is neaenved to the gentEemen who have so genenousky ab6onded this accommodation to the town." One forgotten story about Salem men and this building is rather startling because it happened in the 1830's. In September of 1832 pirates captured the brig Mexican, Captain Butman master, owned by Joseph Peabody of Salem. They robbed the vessel and sailors of all their valuables including $20,000 in specie, then locked all the crew below and set fire to the ship. After the pirates left the crew man- aged to get on deck and put out the fire. The Salem Gazette on August 29, 1834 several years later reported that an English Navy ship had captured the pirates and brought them to Salem, where they were landed and taken to the Old Town Hall for hearings because the Court House was being repaired. The pirates were later tried in Boston, found guilty and executed. - 146 - THE OLD TOWN HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT . . . Page 8 The building continued to be used as a Town Hall until 1836 when the pres- ent City Hall was built. According to Old Naumkeag printed in 1877 "The basement and 6iut 6loor werte s.tUt used as a market at .that .time and .the open zqucvice south o6 the buitding was caned Mahket Square." The authors said that "Neah2y every Saturday a6.ternoon one-hundred and 6i6ty o4 more market .teams cute gathehed in and about .the place.. .The swvcoundings o6 Town Hall are hotels, bitticard halls, dining and liquor saloons. The old hall .in .the second story retains much o6 its oAi.g.inab Zook, and .is used bon local poX.Gticat. raUie.s, .temperance meetings, and like gather- ings where economy ,is considered." West Side of Derby Square (Daniel Low's Warehouse) On the western side of the Old Town Hall south from the Hale Building there are two brick structures which are unobtrusive and simple. The southernmost one was prob- ably built around 1850. It is oblong, three stories high and has a lean-to roof. The facade is decorated with a heavy wooden bracketed cornice of the Italianate style. Some of the window sills and lintels are granite, but the majority are of sandstone. The northernmost brick building is four stories high and has a flat roof. It has eleven bays closely spaced on the eastern facade; the windows have segmental arches which suggests the turn-of-the-century Colonial Revival style, since the building obviously is not Pre-Federal. These two buildings help to enclose the Market House and to keep Derby Square the cozy area it was designed to be. FRONT STREET Sidney Perley wrote that Front Street was one of the ancient ways along the waterfront; he found that it was called a highway by 1682, Wharf Street in 1784 and Water Street in 1809. However, both Bentley in 1796 and Felt's list in 1773 evidently call it Front Street. Phillips writes that Winthrop "undoubtedly warped up the channel and anchored near where all .the 17th centun y wharves were along Front SttAeet, which 6or 150 years was .the .inners harbor.." Old Naumkeag says that "Fish and (Dater and .the east end o6 Front. S.tAeet once 6onmed a corduroy road bu.itt -. 147 - THE OLD TOWN HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT . . . Page 9 a.Cong ,the ehou." (A corduroy road is made by laying logs close together. ) Rev. Samuel Skelton, the first minister in Salem, lived on Front Street, and both George Corwin and Deliverance Parkman, outstanding 17th century citizens , had wharves and warehouses there. In 1835 the Salem Gazette reported that the "of2dU t whaA6 .in Sakem .is aa.id .to be ,that owned by Mn. N. FAo.thingham, JA. , neaA FAowt S.tAeet." Frothingham's store was called Burchmore Place ".in memory o6 .the onig.ina.6 pnoptietoA o6 .the whoAJ." Frothingham's store was about where the Salem News building is. A manuscript in the Essex Institute which was written around 1800 lists stores, wharves and three Still Houses on Front Street, #22-26 Front Street -- Federal Period (Salem Hardware Store) This two-story, oblong, pitch roof brick building has many Federal characteristics. It is laid up in Flemish bond, has a fanlight in the gable end on Derby Square and still has its arched windows and doorways on its northern or rear side. Buildings like this were once common in Salem as may be seen in two views of- Essex Street, now at the Essex Institute, which were painted in 1836. One of the nice decorative details which remains is the iron railing on the south roof edge; the building has a simple wooden cornice. Some later wooden trim has been added to the second story windows, but in the rear the original heavy shutters and their hardware still cover several of the window openings. The glass in both the windows and fanlights has been replaced at some time or other. In the partition of Pickman and Derby's property (see above) Pickman took the land and buildings on the easterly side of the area around the Market House and of the new way from Front Street to the Market House. It seems possible that this building was part of Pickman's share. #32 Front Street -- Period: Undetermined The last brick building in this recommended historic district is at the west corner of Front Street and Derby Square. It has two stories plus a Mansard roof with pedimented dormer windows, and a handsome brick cornice above a wide entablature. The cornice is created by projecting the short or header ends of first three bricks, then two and finally one brick, forming a receding half diamond, in a closely spaced row. The building is oblong with only three bays on the narrow ends on Front Street and Higginson Square and seven on Derby Square. The window lintels are sandstone. The fact that the brickwork is not Flemish Bond indicates that the building is post 1820; Mansard roof suggests 1870. - 148 - THE OLD TOWN HALL HISTORIC DISTRICT . . . Page 10 The 1874 Atlas shows this building, and an early photograph (ie probably ca. 1870) shows a scaffolding at the cornice level ; whether the building was being completed or the roof altered is still unknown. — 149 — FORTS LEE & PICKERING UNIVERSALIST CHURCH on RUST STREET CITY HALL JOSHUA WARD HOUSE THE PEABODY MUSEUM 7 FORTS LEE AND PICKERING on Salem Neck It is hard to realize in 1966 with its H bombs, missiles, nuclear-powered submarines and space flights that simple breastworks like Fort Pickering and Fort Lee once protected this coast. During the 17th century Town and Province records periodically refer to orders to build, repair and arm the forts, usually in the face of some threat of attack by the Indians, Dutch or French. The earliest mentioned fort in Salem records is Darbie Fort on Nogg ' s Head (Naugus Head) in Marblehead, which was then referred to as Darbie Fort side, .just as Beverly was first called ,Cape Ann side. In addition to Darbie Fort and Forts Lee and Pickering, one there were others as follows: near the corner of Lynde and Sewall at the Willows' Streets, Fort Juniper on Juniper Point/ and a fort at the end of the Willows on what was later termed Hospital Point. There were block houses too, and the church was used as a watch house. Phillips ' map of Salem in 1700 shows a pallisade running from Blubber Hollow to the Mill Pond, which was constructed as an inland defense against attack during the Indian troubles in 1675 . Fort Lee and Fort Pickering are the two remaining examples of Salem' s early defenses. Fort Pickering, the oldest remaining fort. in Salem, is first mentioned in 1643 as being incomplete. In 1654 the General Court contributed 100Zs towards its completion, and in 1666 every male in Salem, over 16 had to work on it. In 1667 the town ordered that "the great guns be carried to the fort with speed. " By 1699 the Fort was named for King William; it was called Fort Ann briefly for Queen Ann circa 1704, after which it reverted to Fort William. After the Revolution the Fort was rebuilt under the direction of Jonathan Waldo, a Salem druggist and lumber dealer, and (continued) 150. FORTS LEE AND PICKERING on Salem Neck, continued the semicircular stone carriageways for cannon were considered an outstanding feature. The Fort was turned over to the United States government in 1794 and was rechristened Fort Pickering on October 30, 1799, a day of much local celebrating. During the Civil War the Fort was reconstructed and enlarged to include maga- zines, a ditch, and line of earthworks in the rear. Fort Pickering was manned again during the Spanish War in 1898, after which it was abandoned until the Coast Guard base was built nearby during the 1930 ' s. An 1800 plan of this fort is at the Essex Institute. The site of F nrt r,ee was supposedly first used as a defensive post in 1690, according to early historians. In 1742 the town, with funds provided by the General Court, erected breastworks and gun platforms there. A week after the burning of Portland, Maine, on October 16, 1775, the town of Salem voted to put the Forts on the Neck and on Winter Island in shape to defend the town. By the next Spring a committee from the Provincial Congress reported that this fort "now erecting on an eminence not far distant from those already mentioned, commands Beverly & Salem Harbours in a very advantageous manner. This Fort, we must own, does credit to the Gent of the Town of Salem. . . " According to Old Naumkeag, it was named Fort Lee in honor of General Henry Lee, commander of the northeastern division of the country, who in 1775 selected this hill as a place for a for- midable fort. One historian of the National Park Service suggests that it was named for Col^cJeremiah Lee of Marblehead, and another source believes it was named for Colonel William R. Lee of Marblehead. For Lee was repaired in 1809 and again in 1863, and according to a story 151. FORTS LEE AND PICKERING on Salem Neck continued in the Salem Evening News ythere were still four cannon there in 1934. (This material is largely based on research done by Gilbert L. Streeter, as quoted in the Salem Evening News in an undated clip- ping in a scrapbook at the Essex Institute. ) 152. i � � • f i THE RUST STREET CHURCH RATING: ON E. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The Rust Street Church was built in 1808-09 and was the first Universalist church building in Salem. The Universalists held their first services in Salem in .1804 and met at the home of Nathaniel Frothingham until their brick building was completed. The building has been remodeled several times, most recently in 1924 when it was partially restored. Early pictures show that this was not a complete restoration. The building is brick (Flemish bond) and has two stories plus a pitch roof. It is parallel to Rust Street and built into the rather steep slope of the bank of the North River, which flowed directly behind the church when it was first built. The building faces Federal Street and has three doorways and a square central projecting tower at the gable end. The main entrance in the tower has a semicircular fanlight; above this entrance there are two arched windows, one at the second-story level and one near the top of the balustraded tower. There are two simpler entrances - one at either side of the central one. Several newer wings are attached to the eastern side of the church. 153. CITY HALL RATING: ONE. PERIOD : GREEK REVIVAL, Salem' s City Hall was built in 1837-38 under the supervision of Mayor Leverett Saltonstall and a committee. appointed for that purpose. Salem had become the second city in Massachusetts to be incorporated (1836) , and Saltonstall, who lived at #41 Chestnut Street, was Salem' s first Mayor. One of the startling facts about this building is its financing; the United States Government was so rich at this time that it had $40, 000, 000 in excess funds which it distributed to the states, which in trim distributed it to the cities and towns . Salem paid for its new City Hall with some of its share of this money. The two-story granite and brick building issimple and restrained and is in the Greek Revival style. The granite facade is broken by four projecting pilasters and a wide entablature decorated with carved stone laurel wreaths . The central, recessed entrance is up a short flight of granite steps above which there is a handsome iron lamp on a bracket. Above this entrance at the roof level there is a gold leaf American eagle, copied from one which had rotted and was damaged during a hurricane. The eagle originally was part of one of the McIntire gates at the Common. The building was enlarged in 1876. Further research at City Hall would probably uncover the name of the architect of this building. 154. #148 Washington Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The Joshua Ward House, or Washington House, was built between 1784 and 1787 and is closely associated with Samuel McIntire, as evidenced by bills for work which remain extant. Fiske Kimball says that Samuel determined the interior finish at least of this building., which con- Rc Int ire tains the oldest surviving/example of tl-U type of staircase- The square brick building with its hip roof must have had an elegant view down Salem harbor in the days when Mr. Ward, merchant, shipowner and patriot, had his places of business on the waterfront which came up to and beyond this location. According to Bentley, in 1789 when Washington visited Salem, "The General then retired to the house of Mr. Joshua Ward. . .This assignation was made at the General ' s particular request. " It is said that he slept in the southeast front bedroom. Bentley says again on February 22, 1793, that the town gave salutes on Washington ' s birthday "at the house of Captain Joshua Ward, where General Washington rested while in town. " plus The three-story hi*oof, square building is an example of an early brick house in Salem. It is laid in Flemish bond and has segmental arches and string courses above the windows . The four chimneys were damaged in severe storms when the house was new; no word of further problems with them occurs again until the 1938 hurricane damaged them. An early photograph shows a balustrade midway. up the roof and the facade of the building before it was covered by the later addition of a commercial building on Washington Street. During the 19th century the house was known as the Washington Tavern, and perhaps a large wooden trade sign similar to the one at the Essex Institute (which is thought to have come from Lynn) announced this news to the traveler visiting in Salem. 155. THE PEABODY MUSEUM DISTRICT The Peabody Museum is in the East India Marine Building and was originally called the East India Marine Society Museum when it was organized in 1799. It has recently been designated a National Historic Landmark and is the oldest continuously operated museum in the country. The nucleus of its collection of marine objects and natural and artificial curiosities from faraway lands was brought back by members of the Salem East India Marine Society, which was one of two Salem clubs made up of ship masters and supercargoes of vessels which had been around the Cape of Good Hope or the Horn. Their concern with the proper display of objects is borne .out by the fact that Joseph True, a local woodcarver, was commissioned to carve the head and hands of a figure which wears a Chinese mandarin costume. The flora and fauna of Essex County were collected by local persons and were not originally a part of the collections . The two were combined after 1867 when George Peabody, a native of what was then South Danvers (now Peabody) , gave $100, 000 to endow the museum which was to include the Essex County natural collections of the Essex Institute, as it does to this day. Peabody made a fortune in London and endowed many of the educational institutions in the country which bear his name, as well as building housing for the poor in London and doing countless other charitable acts . Various rooms having been outgrown, in 1825 the Marine Society moved its collections to the present building, which was built in 1824. They were kept in the large upstairs room, the East India Marine Hall, while the first floor housed the Asiatic Bank, the Oriental Insurance Office and the United States Post Office. The dedication of the building was of such importance in 1825 that President John Quincy Adams spoke at the attendant ceremonies; perhaps as a result of seeing this museum and recognizing its value, he was the prime mover in establishing the Smithsonian Institution later when he was in Congress . 156. r THE PEABODY MUSEUM DISTRICT (continued) The members of the Marine Society use the upstairs hall as their club room as well as a museum. It has fireplaces, so one supposes they were warm. However, those in the museum during the winter now can be grateful for modern heating. Phillips writing of the old days said that the guardian, Captain Hammond, "had to be kept warm, so he was housed with a little oil heater in a big glass case facing the American Bison. . . . " The importance of the Peabody Museum and its collections to Salemites of all ages and to students from all over the world is too familiar to need further description.p It might be noted, however, that the Navy found the collections from the Pacific Islands invaluable sources of information about these areas during World War II . The, building itself is a two-story plus a pitch roof, brick structure with a granite facade on the gable end overlooking Essex Street. This end of the building has seven bays; the first floor with its seven simple rectangular windows being dominated by the second-floor sweep of seven closely ranked, taller arched windows separated by narrow granite pilasters. In front of what was once the entrance ther4is now a large iron anchor, and the present entrance is through a narrowjsmall ,one-story addition on the, western side. The building has been much enlarged out back from time to time towards Charter Street, but its original style, as seen from Essex Street, has not suffered. To the west of the museum there is a Japanese style garden of stones and greenery on the site of what was once Benjamin Pickman' s House. East of the museum there is now a vacant lot upon which the Museum expects to expand where a unique building with a pagoda-like roof, topped by a delicate iron railing and pennants, once stood; Conrad' s Oriental Bazaar, as it used to be called, was torn down in 1967, but the iron railing has been saved for future use somewhere. Behind the museum, in its yard, there is a small wooden structure which is said to have housed the first summer school in s 157. THE PEABODY MUSEUM DISTRICT (continued) America. Other buildings on the property include the three-story brick building at #42 Charter Street and the smaller Greek Revival brick house at #10 Liberty Street. The Peabody Museum historic district includes all its property on Charter, Liberty and Essex Streets . N 158. BIBLIOGRAPHY BOOKS : Bentley, William D. D. Diary. 4 Vols . Salem, 1905 . Billias, George Athan. General John Glover & His Marblehead Mariners . New York. Henry Holt & Company, 1960 . Chamberlain, Samuel. Salem Interiors . Hastings House. New York. Salem in Four Seasons. Cousins, Frank & Riley, Philip M. Colonial Architecture of Salem. Boston, Little, Brown & Company, 1919. deLaittre, Rosamond. John Bertram of Salem, Massachusetts . Santa Barbara, California . Haagen Printing & Offset, 1964. Emmerton, Caroline 0. The Chronicles of Three Old Houses. Boston. Thomas Todd Company, 1935 . Essex Institute. Visitor ' s Guide to Salem. Salem, Mass . , 1902. Essex Institute. Visitor ' s Guide to Salem. Salem, Mass . , 1927. Felt, J. B. The Annals of Salem From Its First Settlement. Salem, Mass . , 1827. Hawthorne, Nathaniel. Scarlet Letter. (Introduction) Modern Library edition. Hurd, Hamilton D. History of Essex County, Massachusetts . Vol. I. Philadelphia. J. W. Lewis & Company, 1888 . Huxtable, Ada Louise. Classic New York. Garden City, New York. Doubleday & Company. Kimball, Fiske . Mr. Samuel McIntire, Carver. Portland, Maine. The Southworth-Anthoensen Press, 1940. Osgood, C. S . & Batchelder, H. M. Historical Sketch of Salem. Salem, Mass . , 1879. Perley, Sidney. History of Salem. 3 Vols. Salem, Mass . , 1924. Phillips, James Duncan. Salem in the 17th Century. Cambridge, Mass . The Riverside Press, 1933 . Salem in the 18th Century. Boston, Mass. Houghton Mifflin Company. Putnam, Eben. Visitor ' s Guide to Salem. Salem, Mass . , 1892 . Robinson, John. Our Trees. Salem, Mass. Essex Institute, 1891. Robotti, Frances Diane. Chronicles of Old Salem. Salem, I'-lass . 1948 - Sommerson, John. Georgian London. London. Pleiades Books, 1945. BIBLIOGRAPHY BOOKS (continued) : Washburn, Emory. Judicial History of Massachusetts . Boston. Charles C. Little & James Brown, 1840 . Webber, C. H. & Nevins, W. S. Old Naumkeag. Salem, Mass . A. A. Smith & Co. , 1877. ESSEX INSTITUTE HISTORICAL COLLECTION: Andrews, John P. Reminiscences of Salem. E.I.H.C. October, 1884. Brick Buildings in Salem in 1806. E.I.H.C. April, 1859, pg. 55 . Catalogue of Portraits in the Peabody Museum. E.I.H.C. April, 1938, ppg. 68, 165 . Ensign Williams ' Visit to Essex County in 1776. E.I.H.C. April, 1947, pg. 143 . Mr. Rantoul ' s Establishment in Business . E.I.H.C. December, 1863, pg. 241. Mr. Rantoul ' s Youth & Apprenticeship. E.I.H.C. October, 1863 . Vol. V. , No. 5 . , page 193 . Portraits in the Essex Institute. E.I.H.C. October, 1935, pg. 319. Portraits in Peabody Museum. E.I.H.C. January, 1938, pg. 68 . Portraits in Public Buildings in Salem. E.I.H.C. January, 1939, pg. 54. Presidential Visits to Salem. (Newspaper Accounts) E.I.H.C. October, 1946, pg. 343 . Bartlett, William. Early Years of Jones Very. E.I.H.C. January, 1937 . Bassett, Charles C. The Career of the Frigate Essex. E.I.H.C. January, 1951, pg. 9. Batchelor, • George, D.D. The Salem of Hawthorne ' s Time. (From a lecture given in Salem in 1887 by the Rev. Dr. George Batchelor. ) E.I.H.C. January, 1948. Belknap, Henry W. Furniture Exported by Cabinet Makers of Salem. E.I.H.C. October, 1849. Joseph True, Wood Carver of Salem and His Account Book. E.I.H.C. April, 1942. Bentley, William. D. D. Letter from Dr. Bentley to William Logan of Charleston, S . C. 1808 . E.I.H.C. 1946 . BIBLIOGRAPHY ESSEX INSTITUTE HISTORICAL COLLECTION (continued) : Bowditch, Harold, M. D. Buildings Associated with Nathaniel Bowditch An Amplification. E.I.H.C. January, 1944. (See also article E. I.H.C. July, 1943, which this amplifies . ) Bowditch, Henry Ingersoll. Notes by Henry Ingersoll Bowditch. (Contributed by Harold Bowditch, M. D.) E.I.H.C. April, 1947, pg. 185 Browne, Benjamin F. Addition Notice of Benjamin Gerrish, & Of the Old Gerrish House. E.I.H.C. February, 1863, pg. 25. An Account of Salem Common -& The Levelling of The Same in 1802 with Short Notices of The Subscribers. E.I.H.C, February, 1862, Vol. IV. , pg. 265 . Some Notes Upon Mr. Rantoul' s Reminiscences . E.I.H.C. October, 1863, pg. 197. Some Notes Upon Mr. Rantoul' s Reminiscences . E.I.H.C. December, 1863, pg. 247 . Youthful Recollections of Salem. E.I.H.C. July, 1919, Vol. XLIX, No. 3 . (Written when author was 76 years old, writing of period between 1798 and 1810 basically. ) Cleveland, H. W. S. Reminiscences of Salem in 1884. E.I.H.C. 1946. Codman, Martha. Mrs . Martha Codman' s Reminiscences of Salem 1885 . E.I.H.C. April, 1946. Cox, Francis. Reminiscences of Salem. E.I.H.C. Crowninshield, M. B. Letters of Mary Boardman Crowninshield. E.I.H.C. April, 1947 . Fabens, Bessie D. The Doyle Mansion. E.I.H.C. January, 1948 . Felt, Joseph B. Historical Sketches of the Forts on Salem Neck. E.I.H.C, December, 1863, pg. 255 . Hawthorne, Manning. Family Influences on Hawthorne. E.I.H.C. January, 1940, pg. 2. Hayden, Barbara E. Central Street, Salem & The Ingalls House. E.I.H.C. 1949, pg. 58 . Jackson, Russell Leigh. Addition to the Catalogue of Portraits in The Essex Institute. E.I.H.C. January, 1950. Jackson, Russell Leigh. Physicians of Essex County. E.I.H.C. April, 1948 . Larcom, Jonathan. Diary of Jonathan Larcom of Beverly, Mass . (Written in 1811, toll keeper of Essex Bridge. ) E.I.H.C. January, 1951. BIBLIOGRAPHY ESSEX INSTITUTE HISTORICAL COLLECTION (continued) : Neal, David A. Salem Men in the Early 19th Century. (From the autobiography of David Augustus Neal - with an Introduction by Howard Corning. ) Written ca. 1861 about period ca. 1800 and men he knew. E.I.H.C. January, 1939, pg. 1. Oliver,Henry K. Henry K. Oliver ' s Reminiscences of Federal Street. (Written about 1885 . ) E.I.H.C. April, 1946 . Pickman, Benjamin. Account of Houses & Other Buildings in Salem in 1793 . E.I.H.C. Vol. VI. , pg. 93 . Phillips, James Duncan. Captain Stephen Phillips, 1764-1838. E.I.H.C. April, 1940. E.I.H.C, Annual Report Year Ending May 1, 1946. Page 12. Political Fights & Local Squabbles . E.I.H.C. January, 1946 . Salem in the Nineties. E.I,H.C, October, 1953 . Pulsifer, Susan Nichols . The Peirce-Nichols Garden. E.I.H.C. July 1966, pg. 241. Rantoul, Robert. Rantoul Geneology, etc. E.I.H.C. 1863, pg. 148. Reminiscences . E.I.H.C. Vol. I. , Page 149. Spo£fard, U. G. Reminiscences of Salem in 1884. E.I.H.C, October, 1946 . Streeter, Gilbert L. Salem Before the Revolution. E.I.H.C. Vol. XXXII, 1896. Some Historic Streets & Colonial Houses of Salem., EI.H.C. July, 1900, Vol. 36, pg. 185 . Sturgis, Elizabeth Orne (Paine) . Recollections of the 'Old Tucker House ' . (28 Chestnut Street, Salem, ) E.I.H.C. April, 1938. Terry, Harriet S . Reminiscences of Salem. E.I.H.C. 1948 . Thayer; Oliver. Early Recollections of the Upper Portion of Essex Street. E.I,H.C. XXI, pg. 211. Salem 1885 . Thayer, Alice M. The Salem Fire. (Letter written by Alice Mansfield Thayer, ed. by A. Goodhue, Jr. ) E.I.H.C. July, 1964, pg. 183 . Waters, Edward S . Old Salem Estates . E.I.H.C. 1879. Whitney, William T. The Crowninshields of Salem. E.I.H.C. April, 1958. , BIBLIOGRAPHY MAGAZINE ARTICLES & PAMPHLETS: Archer, Charles F. W. Clippings from the Salem Evening News . Salem, Mass. , 1922 . Essex Institute. Arvedson, George. Salem With A Guide. Salem, Mass . , 1926 . Salem Garden Club. Old Salem Gardens . Salem, Mass . , May 1946 . Swan, Mabel M. Samuel McIntire, Carver, & The Sandersons Early Salem Cabinet Makers . Salem, Mass. Essex Institute, 1934. Thomas Todd Company. Chestnut Street 40 Years Ago. _Boston, 1938. Wiswali, Richard Hall. Notes on the Buildings of Chestnut Street. Salem, Mass . , 1939. MANUSCRIPTS: City Records of Accepted Streets . City Clerk' s Office, City Hall, Salem, Mass . Erikson, Evarts C. Typescript in author ' s possession. Essex Institute archives: Curwin Family Papers . Salem, Mass. Henry F. Waters Papers. Salem, Massaachusetts Perley Derby ' s Account of Tenement Houses in Salem Belonging to the Salem Charitable Building Association. Salem, Mass. Salem Estates and Localities . Salem, Mass .-, ca. 1800 . MAPS AND ATLASES - McIntyre, H. Map of the City of Salem 1851. Philadelphia. Phillips, James Duncan. Part of Salem in 1700 . Salem, Mass . , 1933 . Map of Salem about 1780 . Salem, Mass . , 1937 . Richards, L. J. & Co. Atlas of City of Salem, Massachusetts. 1897. Sanborn Map Company. Insurance Maps of Salem, Massachusetts . New York, 1957 . Saunders, Jonathan P. Plan of the Town of Salem. Boston. Annin & Smith, 1820. Walter, George H. & Co. Atlas of Essex County, Massachusetts . Boston, 1874. l