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HISTORIC DISTRICT EAST 11 Se�larn �ia�+ar+C �iatri ct Sway Cornrri��e+C Zintkb�� 4a�i a1�1 a , i VOLUME II 1AIAO is us�tlA Eaet P its 3Ab��� 1�.fah SALEM HISTORIC DISTRICT STUDY COMMITTEE INVESTIGATION VOLUME II Historic District East Prepared by Elizabeth K. Reardon ti HISTORIC DISTRICT EAST ANDREW STREET Page 1 South Side # ' s 4 - 30 North Side # ' s 9 - 35 BENTLEY STREET Page 6 East Side # ' s 3 - 19 West Side # ' s 2 - 16 BRIDGE STREET Page 10 South Side # ' s 159 - 121 BRIGGS STREET Page 17 South Side #4 North Side # ' s 13 - 33 BROWN STREET Page 21 North Side # ' s 2 - 18 South Side # ' s 1 - 23 BROWN STREET COURT Page 26 East Side # ' s 4 - 6 West Side (no buildings) CARLTON STREET Page 27 East Side #' s 1 - 33 West Side # ' s 6 - 28 e CURTIS STREET Page 35 West Side # ' s 4 - 14 East 'Side # ' s 3 - 11 DANIELS STREET Page 39 East Side # ' s 1 - 45 West Side # ' s 2 - 40 DANIELS STREET COURT Page 50 West Side # ' s 2 - 4 East Side # ' s 1 - 9 DERBY STREET Page 57 North Side # ' s 222 - #98 South Side Central Wharf- #97 ESSEX STREET Page �68 South Side # ' s 33 - 131 North Side #' s 502 - 134 FORRESTER STREET Page 87 East Side #1 West Side # ' s 2 - 4 HARDY STREET Page 90 East Side # ' s 3 - 29 West Side # ' s 4 - 26 _ 1 HISTORIC DISTRICT EAST HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD Page 98 West Side # ' s 2 - 12 East Side # ' s 1 - 33 HERBERT STREET Page 103 East Side # ' s 5 - 27 West Side # ' s 4 - 26 HODGES COURT Page 109 East Side # ' s 5 - 9 West Side # ' s 2 - 12 HOWARD STREET Page 111 West Side #' s 1 - 29 East Side #' s 2 ,- 42 KIMBALL COURT Page 116 #2 KOSCIUSKO STREET Page 117 East Side # ' s 9 - 21 West Side # ' s 6 - 22 MALL STREET Page 121 West Side # ' s 1 - 23 East Side # ' s 6 - 20 MILK STREET Page 126 West Side # ' s 2 - 8 East Side # ' s 1 - 7 OLIVER STREET Page 128 East Side # ' s 2 - 22 West Side # ' s 5 - 23 ORANGE STREET Page 133 East Side #' s 3 - 7 PALFREY COURT Page 135 East Side # ' s 6 - 14 PARKER COURT Page 137 # ' s 1 - 4 PICKMAN STREET Page 138 North Side #' s 3 - 27 South Side # ' s 2 - 24 PLEASANT STREET Page 146 West Side # ' s 8 - 34 East Side #' s 15 - 35 SALEM COMMON Page 153 SPRING STREET Page 158 South Side # ' s 16 - 20 r HISTORIC DISTRICT EAST ST. PETER STREET Page 160 East Side # ' s 24 - 50 TURNER STREET Page 165 East Side # • s 1 - 57 West Side # ' s 4 - 54 UNION STREET Page 179 West Side # ' s 4 - 40 East Side # • s 7 - 43 WASHINGTON SQUARE Page 185 WASHINGTON SQUARE EAST Page 186 # • s 70 - 98 WASHINGTON SQUARE NORTH Page 196 # ' s 19 - 45 WASHINGTON SQUARE SOUTH Page 204 # ' s 32 - 62 WASHINGTON SQUARE WEST Page 207 #• s 13 and 18 WEBB STREET Page 210 West Side # • s 75 - 89 WHITE STREET Page 212 West Side WILLIAMS STREET Page 214 West Side # ' s 3 - 33 East Side # ' s 8 - 30 WINTER STREET Page 222 West Side #' s 2 - 26 East Side # ' s 1 - 23 The following is a summary of the type of houses and ratings of structures in District East: 17th Century 6 Ratings: ONE 84 (1651-1725) TWO 290 Pre-Federal 49 (1720-1790) THREE 149 Federal 194 UNRATED 11 (1790-1830) Greek Revival 68 (1830-1850) Third Quarter 65 (1850-1875) Fourth Quarter 71 (1875-1900) Colonial Revival 5 Indeterminate 32 Miscellaneous 39 L ANDREW STREET--From Common to Webb Street Benjamin F. Browne in an article in the Essex Institute Historical Collections said that the land now Andrew Street was first owned by Captain Joseph Gardner.who was slain fighting the Narragansett Indians in 1675 . It was then sold to Joseph Andrew 7whose grandson sold it about 1780 to William Browne who had a tannery here until 1802 when he opened up Andrew Street and sold house lots. Mr. Browne mentions that when he was young, water came up to Milk Street occasionally and that there was a spring east of the street and a stone wall at the end of it by Collins Cove (Webb Street did not exist then) . SOUTH SIDE (even numbers) #4 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This small square, one-story wooden house with its bracketed. French roof may have been a carriage house at one time. Its location in connection with the house on the Common and its stone foundation suggest this as a possibility. #6 Andrew Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, oblong, end-to-the-street, wooden, hip roof house with doorway typical of the Federal period is similar to one or two others ` on Andrew Street. Architecturally it is still intact. It was built by William Ropes and was one of the first houses on the street. #8 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Siding over the clapboards and a pediment supported by metal braces conceal the Federal characteristics of this house. Under the pediment, the front door is framed by pilasters and a fanlight. Evidently the house was built by Captain Samuel Masury. According to B. F. Browne, this house was plastered on the outside at first--an innovation in Salem at that time--but the plaster did not stand up and was removed, being replaced with clapboards . I . ANDREW STREET SOUTH SIDE (even numbers) continued #10 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, square, hip roof building has had ells added on both sides. The main portion of the building still has its six-over-six windows, narrow clapboards on each end, and doorway with pilasters, a fanlight and broken pediment above. It was built by Perley Putnam. #12 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. A lovely Federal front door with a small semicircular blind over the fanlight and elongated, reeded pilasters werethe chief indications that this house was built about 1800, until siding was installed recently hiding these details. This seems to have been the first house on the street, and if so, it was built by John Clark, a carpenter. #14 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The nicest exterior detail of this house is its carved cornice. It is a two-story, wooden building with pitch roof and a typical simple Federal period front door over which modern elements have been placed. Modern siding covers the clapboards. #16-18 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story, square, wooden, hip- roof building has a favored Federal style front entrance with a fanlight surmounted by a modillioned pediment. (This style was taken by American builders from a Builders ' Guide,by William Paine of England; an American edition of his book was printed in 1792 . ) Trim around the side door and a bay window are later additions . #20 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is an excellent example of the typical Ismall two-story, wooden dwelling with gambrel roof and simple pilastered front door. There is a t,=:o-story ell beyond the hose and a small pitch roof shed in the yard. #22 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL A pair of elongated columns support the roof of the portico of 2. (continued) ANDREW STREET, SOUTH SIDE (even numbers) continued this two-story, brick house (Flemish bond) with a brick cornice and typical Federal front entrance with fanlight. According to B. F. Browne ' s recollections, it was built by Loammi Coburn. #24 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD : FEDERAL. This is a typical long, narrow, wooden, gable-end-to-the-street, two- story house with dormer windows and a simple front door. Modern siding covers clapboards . #26 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. A gable-end-to-the-street building with modillion blocks under the eaves and quoined corners , this wooden house has two stories plus a pitch roof. #30 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: ITALIANATE. This house is a puzzle. From the exterior appearance it appears to have been built after 1850; however, Mr. Browne in two articles in the Essex Institute Historical Collections says the ell was moved to this location from the corner of Central and Essex Streets when the present Central Street building was erected in 1850 . He also says that it was the residence of the Browne family who laid out Andrew Street. Benjamin Browne was a mariner during the Revolution and was confined in Mill Prison in Plymouth, England. Has the original house been torn down and replaced, , or has the house been modernized in the past? ANDREW STREET, NORTH SIDE (odd numbers) #9 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Once upon a time this was probably a typical three-story, hip roof house. A large rear addition and small ell on one side were added, probably at the same time that the front entrance was altered. Since that time, undoubtedly, shingles have been added, hiding the original clapboards . In short, the house has been much remodeled. According to Mr. Browne ' s recollections, this house, if identified correctly, was originally on Curtis street and moved in 1802 . It was later sold to Captain Benjamin 3 (continued) ANDREW STREET NORTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued Babbidge, who went to sea in 1811 and was never heard from again. According to Browne, it originally had a flat roof, covered with "tar, paper and gravel, but it did not keep out the water. " #11 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. A typical Federal period front doorway with reeded pilasters and a row of large balls under the portico cornice identify this two-story , pitch roof wooden house as being of the Federal period. Wide siding has been added. Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. At the end of a driveway between #11 and #13 Andrew Street there is a small wooden, two-and-one-half-story "half house" with a pitch roof and small addition in the rear. The . "hal£ house" style is generally pre- Federal; however, this example has a higher brick foundation than is customary for this period. Perhaps it was moved to this location and set on a new foundation. #13 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL No additions or alterations mar this two-story, pitch-roof, end-to-the street wooden house. Its front door in the yard has good Doric columns supporting the portico. THIRD QUARTER #15 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: (ITALIANATE) Evidently this two-story gable-end-to-the-street dwelling with rusti- cated wooden facade replaced an earlier house and penny shop which \ Mr. Browne speaks of in his recollections . #17 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. , According to Mr. Browne, this building was formerly Horton ' s seedhouse and was moved here in the early 1800 ' s and converted. Dr. Benjamin Kittridge lived here at one time, and a John Pellett of Connecticut taught school in one room in 1807. Despite changes, traces of the Federal period remain, as evidenced by the elongated pilasters and eliptical 4 (continued) ANDREW STREET NORTH SIDE (odd numbers) continued fanlight which framethe front door. MILK STREET BEGINS #19 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The addition of a bay window over the front door and of two-colored shingles over the clapboards tend to make it hard to recognize that this is a house of the Federal period. #21 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This long, narrow, gambrel-roof, end-to-the-street house with its simple cornice and typical pilastered door is a good example of a simple Federal house. #23 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This house has a fine Federal period cornice. It is a long, narrow, wooden gambrel-roofed house; siding and changes around the front door tend to disguise the Federal character of the house. #25 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD:THIRD QUARTER (Italianate) A large, two-story, Mansard roof, dormer windowed house with decorative slates on the roof and oblong two-story bays on either side of the board front doorway — this is a good example of this period of architecture. #29 Andrew Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD : THIRD QUARTER. This two-story, matched board, gable-end-to-the-street house has brackets under the eaves which indicate that it was built during the Italianate period. It has not suffered from exterior architectural remodeling. #33-35 Andrew Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GOTHIC. The style of the gables and dormer windows of this house indicate the Gothic period, circa 1840; however, the addition of a bay window and other small ells here and there make it hard to identify its age by style and period. 5• BENTLEY STREET Bentley Street is the newest of those covered in the Historic District East portion of this survey. However, it has had a partial existence since 1682 when Isaac Meachum reserved a passageway ten feet wide to a lot of land he owned, which was back from Essex Street. This way continued to exist until Bentley Street was continued to Derby Street. It was accepted as a street by the City of Salem in 1846. The development of the street was apparently slow. The 1874 Atlas only shows four houses on the west side and two on the east side of the street. Wooden picket fences in front of many of the houses are a pleasing aspect of Bentley Street. BENTLEY STREET - EAST SIDE There is no #1 Bentley Street #3 Bentley Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. a It is impossible to determine the history of this two-story plus nearly flat-roofed, small wooden house . The roof may have been raised and the building has no discernible style. #5 Bentley Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL This minute building, which is # 5 Bentley Street on the modern city atlas, appears actually to have been a tool shed or workshop in the yard of #6 Hardy Street. It is a one-story plus pitch roof, wooden structure with a window and door on its south side. #7-9 Bentley Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story, flat roofed, brick industrial building appears to have some age. The end on Bentley Street has three sets of segmental brick arches each of which tops a pair of windows . South of the building there is a wooden addition. #11 Bentley Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is a typical three-story . flat roofed ,wooden, multiple family dwelling of the type that has housed so many New England families during the last seventy-five years . It has a recessed front entrance on the street and simple brackets, which suggest that it is older than the building across the street from it . 6. BENTLEY STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) There are no numbers 13 or 15 Bentley Street. #17 Bentley Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This small one-story plus pitch roo£'rwooden house is L-shaped and has its gable end on the street. The entrance in the side yard has a pedimented portico, which is not a typical characteristic of the simple Greek Revival period house. The house has two large dormers projecting from the roof. #19 Bentley Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL (?) This small wooden building is actually two structuresjoined together; that nearest the .street is a one-story plus gambrel roof structure covered with shingles . Beyond it there is a small two-story plus pitch roof shingled building. The house appears to be only one room wide. Both the chimneys are of recent vintage. The proportions of the gambrel roof are not typical of Salem. Undoubtedly, tourists wandering in this neighborhood consider this a quaint house. BENTLEY STREET - WEST SIDE #2 Bentley Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This small Italianate wooden (siding) house has one story plus a pitch roof and is gable end to the street. In a typical fashion for a house of this size and style, the entrance with its ornate trim of consoles hand- somely carved with pineapples is on the gable end and is balanced by a one- story bay window. The house has wide overhanging eaves and a moderately high foundation. It was probably built in the yard of the house on the corner of Essex Street. #4 Bentley Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two—story plus gambrel roof house is gable end to the street. It is covered with clapboards, close to the ground and only one room wide - a typical simple house of the Federal period. The facade faces south and has seven bays arranged as follows: two windows, one simple pilastered entrance, two windows, a smaller entry, and then one window. Beyond the original end of the house a modern two-story addition has been made. The house has several dormer windows, and at least one of its original Federal 70 YA • • � f I BENTLEY STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) style chimneys . The pilastered entrance trim was probably installed about 1830 . #6 Bentley Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This three-story plus flat roofed wooden house was made to house many family units and is like many of its age and purpose. It has a three-window, three-story high bow on the street end, and three-story piazzas attached to the back of the building. #8 Bentley Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is a large two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house with its gable end on the street . It is in the Italianate style and is trimmed with paired brackets, heavy overhanging eaves and a two-story high bay window beside the entrance on the gable end. #10 Bentley Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a two-story plus gambrel roof,,wooden house with its narrow end on the street; the outline of the gambrel is accented by a molded wooden strip . The e,itrance, which is recessed and trimmed with simple pilasters in the Greek Revival style, is a modification which probably dates from about 1830 . The square chimney suggests that the house may even precede the Federal period. Beyond the house there is an addition to it of relatively rece,,t vintage. #102 Bentley Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. In the yard of #10 Bentley Street, and very close to it, there is a typical three-story wooden multiple-family dwelling with typical piazzas, a flat roof and projecting bay. #12 Bentley Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof house is gable end to the street and faces south. The facade has three bays, a central entrance and window on either side. The trim on the pilasters on either side of the doorway is Greek Revival in style, and a modern canopy has been added over the entrance . 8. BENTLEY STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) This house has a square chimney, picket fence and lilacs in the yard, all of which add to its old flavor. #14 Bentley Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. No. 14 Bentley Street is a multiple-family wooden dwelling with two stories plus a flat roof. It has its narrow end on the street and extends back in the yard quite a distance . Piazzas break up the middle of the long expanse of the north side of the house . #16 Bentley Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This two-story plus pitch roof house facing Bentley Street is covered with shingles and a storm porch, which hides the recessed entrance. Its style and period are not easy to define; it could conceivably date from the 1830 ' s, but it is probably much more recent. The 1874 Atlas shows an outbuilding rather than a house on this approximate location. 9• BRIDGE STREET Bridge Street is one of the longest streets in Salem today and also one of the oldest, hence it has a long history, although most of the visual signs of its earliest days have long since disappeared. Only a short portion of the street is included in this survey, but we. will attempt to give a few brief glimpses of the history of the area around the street. Perley wrote that the street is one of the oldest in Salem,.,since it was the way to the Cape Ann side ferry which was operating by 1636; other early Salem historians believe that Conant and his small band of Old Planters first settled on the banks of the North River on land sheltered by Horton ' s Point, which is the land at the end of March Street. The land east of Bridge Street near the Beverly Bridge was supposedly the planter ' s marsh where grasses were cut for thatched roofs, and it has been said that Lady Arbella Johnson was buried near the marsh on a site Dr. Holyoke used to say was marked by a brick tower. The old Skerry house, now much modified, still stands on the banks of the North River where it was built during the 1600 ' s . Other early settlers having houses near the ferry were Symonds, Massey and Marston - the las%,where the Woodbridge house stands on the corner of March Street. The street itself was known as Ferry Lane until the late 1700 ' s and was evidently not as straight as it is today. The original route to the ferry was by the Common, through Winter Street to Ferry Lane. The street did not then continue much beyond Winter Street, and as late as 1820 Bridge Street stopped at Mall Street because further inland the North River came up over the present Bridge Street. Browne referred to the river bank in this area as Guppy ' s bank and wrote of a fine spring of water near the northern wall of the jail. It seems hard to believe that during the War of 1812 British prisoners 10. BRIDGE STREET (continued) of war were kept on a prison ship tied up to Rust ' s wharf at the bottom of Rust Street. The low-lying portions of Bridge Street beyond Winter Street to St. Peter Street are on made land filled in after 1820 and were . known as Forrester Street in 1840 . (Perley does believe there was originally a way all along the bank of the North River which fell into disuse after Federal Street was laid out. ) Most of the earliest made land in Salem is in the vicinity of the railroad lines which seem to have been constructed over water originally, after which the water between the shore and the tracks was gradually eliminated. After the completion of the Essex Bridge to Beverly in 1788-89, Bridge Street was improved and renamed. Bentley noted in 1790; "A great number of hands employed in repairing the new Road to the Bridge. The Earth is dug in trenches on each side, and thrown into the middle, and upon the highest land a foot path is left near the fences & walks. . . We have good hopes that the road will be pleasant . " There was some problem then in land-taking as there is sometimes today; Bentley wrote in 1794 of the "death of Robert Hooper who had long delayed the laying out of Ferry lane by his land and buildings where the road was intended. " Hooper ' s mother died in 1795, the house near Winter Street was removed, and the street straightened. As far as is known the Skerry house is the only very early one which now remains in the Bridge StrEEt area. However, after the Bridge was finished.,Salemites began to build and move houses on the street. Bentley mentions quite a few new houses built between 1796 and 1800 for such people as Chever, Dunnel, Noyes, who also ran a Hemp House, and Barras. Joseph Gardner, a baker, carried on his business in a house on the south side of Bridge Street between Pleasant Street and Winter Street. Bentley wrote that in 1799 Gardner " erected 11. BRIDGE STREET (continued) a place in Bridge Street to ride wooden horses, a newly introduced amusement of the Town. " Mr. Gardner soon moved to March Street, which had been newly opened by Thomas March Woodbridge, who later in 1811 had McIntire build the brick house on the corner, which is now the home of the North Shore Children ' s Friend & Family Service Association. According to B. F. Browne, the wooden horses which were also moved to March Street "were the delight and admiration of all the boys of my time, and on Election, Thanksgiving and other public days, he opened his house for the entertainment of the public. . . a genial man who dealt in other commodities than bread and ' lasses cakes, though for these he had his full Ishare of custom, his carts going every day around Salem and to Beverly. . .There were about a dozen of his wooden horses, saddled and bridled, each one attached to the outer end of a shaft, the other end of which was attached to an upright revolving post, which was turned either by a horse or by boys within the ring. . . . " Bentley walked to Gardner' s in 1816 to buy the special three cent Election Day cakes. Another interesting bit of history about the area around old Ferry lane or Bridge Streetooncerns Windmill Point, which was the name of the neck of land at the end of Northey Street. Mr. Robert Hooper told Bentley in 1791 "that the windmill formerly standing on that point was brought from Boston 1n 1733 . It stood on Copp' s Hill in the north part of that Town, and was struck with Lightning. Mr. Clough the father of the present generation came with it. . .Mr. Hooper attended it in person for sometime. " In 1819 Bentley mentions that in the background of a portrait of Samuel Curwen, who died in 1802, there is shown, among other things, the"Windmill on the estate at Windmill point. . . . " The side streets off Bridge Street developed in the following 12. BRIDGE STREET (continued) sequence generally speaking: first, towards the North River, then towards the planters ' Marsh,,presumably near the end of Osgood Street where Captain Osgood built his whar£,,and finally between Bridge Street and Collins Cove to the south. BRIDGE STREET - SOUTH SIDE (From St. Peter Street to Pleasant Street. ) See St. Peter Street for notes about the jail. The small indented area now used for parking at the north end of the Howard Street Burying Ground was the location of the Hay Scales, after they were removed from Central Street. HOWARD STREET ENDS. #159 Bridge Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story plus pitch roof,wooden (siding) house is gable end to Bridge Street and must once have had a lovely view of the North River from its Greek Revival style pilastered and recessed entrance. The house is relatively simple and architecturally intact. The high brick foundation reflects the contnnrs of the slope towards the river. The house has two small ells in the back. WILLIAMS STREET ENDS. #155 Bridge Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof,.,wooden house faces Bridge Street. The facade is broken by three projecting bay windows and a porch, the roof of which is supported by turned posts which were popular during this period A high stone foundation raises the house well above the sidewalk level. Between #155 and #153 there is a small flat roofed,, cinder block garage. #153 Bridge Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is a large two-story plus pitch roof,,wooden house directly on Bridge Street. The house has a shop in the brick faced basement floor. The house is trimmed with simple paired brackets in the Itallanate style, 13. BRIDGE STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) MALL STREET ENDS. #151 Bridge Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This house has a complex form, characteristic of the style of this period. It has cross gables, flat roofed ells, a projecting„pedimented,, one-story entrance porch, bay windows, etc. These features combined with decorated barge boards and varied window trim make it a good example of the architecture of the Fourth Quarter of the 19th century. This house is on the site of the first Catholic Church in Salem, which was built in the early 1800 ' s on land given the church by a member of the Forrester family and ,torn down in 1877 . The house was probably built shortly thereafter. OLIVER STREET ENDS. WINTER STREET BEGINS. #137 Bridge Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house with its gable end to the street. The entrance in the Greek Revival style is in a small ell to one side of the house and is reached by passing through a covered portico with columns which are later than the Greek Revival period. There is a triangular shaped window in the peak of the gable end. #135 Bridge Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD : THIRD QUARTER. This two-story plus scooped Mansard roof, wooden (brick siding) house is a fine example of the Italianate style. The architect made good use of boldly carved brackets, modillions and hood moldings to accent an impressive doorway and the lay window to one side. #131 Bridge Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a typical Federal period house with three stories plus a hip roof and its narrow end on the street. The wooden house has a typical Federal cornice under the eaves, a balanced five-bay facade in the west yard with a central entrance and semieliptical fanlight, which is now partially hidden by the addition of a Victorian canopy and supporting brackets. .14. BRIDGE STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) A small entrance on the street end also has Victorian trim. There are several additions on the back of the house. A large seckel pear tree in the yard still flourishes as few do nowadays. In the back of the large side yard there is a large cinder block garage. #129 Bridge Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is an interesting two-story plus gambrel roofAwooden house which is L-shaped and set at an oblique angle to the street. Basically it seems to date from the Federal period, but has been much altered by the addition of a two-story high bay window on the street or narrow end and a two-story wooden covered porch inserted in the angle of the ell. On the east side of the house there is still a third addition, a flat-roofed Beverly jog with the remains of a 'simple pilastered entrance. #127 Bridge Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof . wooden (siding) house consists of two nearly equal parts, the older of which is probably the part which faces Bridge Street and is set back from it. This portion has a five-bay facade and a lean-to in the back which makes it a salt-box house. The entrance is in the center of the facade in a handsome pilastered and pedimented enclosed porch. Attached to the eastern end of this house is a two-story plus hip roof wooden addition which projects toward the sidewalk making the house L-shaped. One end of this addition is brick laid up in Flemish bond, which went out of style in Salem by 1820 . The wide wooden window frames in the brick wall suggest that this may have been added to the house prior to 1810. The house is on a very low foundation. #123 Bridge Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof„wooden house faces Bridge Street. It has a five-bay facade and central entrance which has been altered in the Italianate style. This appears to be the only exterior change except for a later addition at the rear of the house. 1$, BRIDGE STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) #12112 Bridge Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. Set at a slant in a narrow area between its neighbors on either side, this is a two-story plus a pitch roof house. It has a two-story, three-sided bay window and zipper brick foundation on the gable or street end, both characteristics of the architecture of the end of the 1800 ' s . On the side towards #121 Bridge Street .the house has four successive projecting jogs . It is very hard to identify the origin of this house; it does not show on the 1874 Atlas . #121 Bridge Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD : FEDERAL. Set back from and facing Bridge Street, this three-story plus hip roof , wooden (siding) house has a five-bay facade. The central entrance is in an enclosed pedimented entrance porch which is trimmed with four fluted pilasters and a dentil cornice. On the Pleasant Street end of the house there is a Greek Revival style entrance portico and doorway, and on the western side the simple entrance is in the Federal style. There are two pitched roof dependencies attached to the back of this house, the first of which may have been part of the original house. PLEASANT STREET BEGINS. 16. BRIGGS STREET Briggs Street is said to have been laid out in the early 1800 ' s by Thomas Briggs, whose house and ropewalk were on his property east of the Common. As early as 1806, when brick houses in Salem were listed in the Salem Gazette, Richard Savary had a house partly of brick on Briggs Court. Originally the street was only about two- thirds of its present length and was called a court. B. F. Browne wrote that there was a bench at the bottom of it and also a small house belonging to a lady named Mack,who sold cakes and ale. Mr. Briggs was buried in a small fenced plot of land behind the house at the north corner of Briggs Street and the Common. (See Washington Square East. ) His father-in-law, Mr. Vincent, who also had a ropewalk on the east side of the Common, was buried there, too. The enclosed family burying ground must now be covered by the hot-top parking space on the north side of Briggs Street behind #94 Washington Square East. Briggs Street is interesting because despite the mixture of archi- tectural periods, the houses, which are similar in size and scale, are very compatible. BRIGGS STREET - SOUTH SIDE. #4 Briggs Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER (?) This house has Italianate details, but unlike most Salem houses in this style it is made of brick instead of wood; it may actually be a Federal building which was remodeled during the Third Quarter of the 19th Century. It has two stories plus a Mansard roof with pedimented dormer windows, the narrow three-bay end of the oblong house is on the street with an entrance at one side and bracketed bay window above. Both the paired wooden brackets under the eaves and the wooden trim above the windows (but only on the north and west sides of the house) are characteristic of the Italianate style . The house lacks the high foundation which is usually a feature of this architectural period. Part of the west wall is laid up in Flemish bond, which is unusual after 1817 or 1820. 17. BRIGGS STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) BRIGGS STREET - North Side #13 Briggs Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, end-to-the-street, wooden (siding) house is in the Greek Revival style. The recessed entrance at one side of the facade has simple pilasters at either side. The wide entablature and cornice make the gable end of the house resemble a Greek temple; this was a favorite architectural device during this period. Behind the main house there are two smaller two-story plus pitch roof additions . #17 Briggs Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This house is a good example of the Italianate style. It is a two- story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house with its entrance on the street, or gable end. Paired brackets dress up the two bay windows, one above the door and the other to one side of it, and also call attention tothe eaves . Other typical decorative features of this style are the square posts supporting tne�)ortico and the hood molded window lintels . #19 Briggs Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This house is a two-story plus pitch roof clapboard building with its gable end on the street and is similar to #17 Briggs Street. Above the recessed entrance there is a bay window trimmed with brackets; there are also paired brackets under the eaves . #21 Briggs Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL This unusual,, small wooden (siding) house has two stories plus a pitch roof and is gable end to the street. Its unusual feature is the modillioned cornice outlining the gable, which is similar to the treat- ment of the Old Town Hall, but unusual in a private house. The entrance in the yard with its Victorian trim is later than the house as are the additions to the house beyond its original five-bay facade. #23 Briggs Street' RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This small two-story plus pitch roof,.wooden (shingled) house is gable 18. r BRIGGS STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) end to the street. It has typical pre-Federal molded window caps and sills and a small enclosed,pedimented entrance porch in the yard. A small oval window on the street side of this porch has a nice frame with the suggestion of a keystone at its top and bottom, an elegant touch. The rather high brick foundation of this buibing suggests that it may have been noved to this location. #25-27 Briggs Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof house is similar to #22 High Street; they both have brick ends, are directly on the street and have two entrances, one in the side yard on either side of the house. The brick (Flemish bond) east and west walls of this house are belted and the windows have plank frames and no ornamental lintels . Both the entrances to this house have had Victorian trim superimposed on the original reeded pilasters, which can still be seen. There is an ell beyond the house in the yard. Shingles on the street end of the house probably cover the original clapboards . The house has four Federal period chimneys . The 1806 list of brick houses in Salem at that time included one "partly of brick" which was listed as Richard Savary ' s, Briggs Court. This is undoubtedly the same house. #29 Briggs Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. All of the incidental features of this simple two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house remain as they have probably been for many years and are a tribute to the carpenters who have kept it in repair and to the owners who paid for the maintenance. These features include a fence of round pickets and square posts, low acorn-topped posts strung with a chain to form a barrier along the brick sidewalk leading into the side entrance and a delicate trellis which is pointed like a Gothic arch and separates the back and front yards . The house itself has a central entrance in the middle of the five- bay facade in the yard. The flat boards between the top of each second- . �9. BRIGGS STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) story window and the eaves are usually a characteristic of houses built during the Federal period. #33 Briggs Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This house is similar to several others on the street and was probably built a bit later than No. ' s 17 and 19. It has two stories plus a pitch roof and is gable end to the street. Brackets, simpler than those on the other houses of this period, trim the two-story bay window, entrance and cornice. The front door is original; it is a double door with some stained-glass windows. 20. 'fit... l yZ t ♦ i J y BROWN STREET Perley in his research found references to Brown Street as early as 1661 when it was called "a highway" ; in 1667 it was referred to as the "lane by ye pounds' . Other names he found for it were..the "lane leading .to the new church" and the "back street to the training field" the Common). By 1796, Bentley says, Brown' s Street ran from the church to the corner of the Common.. Saunders ' 1820 Map shows Brown Street continuing through to Pleasant Street along the Common, and writers like Browne also referred to Washington Square North as Brown Street, which makes it difficult to identify the specific areas and buildings they mention. Browne also wrote that it should be spelled "Browne Street„" : Brown Street is related to Salem' s maritime days by virtue of the fact that Nathaniel Bowditch was born on the street in 1773 in the house which ha; since been moved back to Kimball Court. It is also appropriate to note that much of the work of making the frigate Essex ready to go to sea was done by men who were in one way or another connected with Brown Street. According to Charles C. Bassett' s article in the January 1951 copy of the Essex Institute Historical Proceedings, Jonathan Harraden ' s ropewalk made the rigging at his factory on this street. (B. F. Browne wrote that the headhouse of the ropewalk was on the site of #6 Brown Street, just east of Howard Street.) John Howar4 of the firm of Buffum and Howard, which made her sails, lived on Brown Street at #33 according to early writers . At present there is no number thirty-three, but other numbers on the street have evidently been changed, hence the house where he lived may still be standing. (See also Howard Street.) Browne also wrote that William Luscomb, who lived on Brown Street,rdid the painting and plumbing on the ship. A present resident of the street believes that Captain Ichabod Nichols once lived in his house on Brown Street; it is .also interesting that Captain Nichols was a member of the committee appointed to build the Essex in October 1798. 21. BROWN STREET (continued) Difficulties for American vessels at sea were created at that period by the war between England and France, and the new nation could not afford to build vessels itself at the time; hence funds were subscribed by Salemites, and the Frigate Essex was launched September 30, 1799. She was the first American ship of war to double the Cape of Good Hope and carry our flag to the Indian and Pacific Oceans . Some of the famous American naval heroes who sailed aboard her were William Bainbridge, David Farragut and Stepheh Decatur. BROWN STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) Kimball Court begins . #2-4 Brown Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : THIRD QUARTER. This large, double, wooden (siding) house is a good example of the architecture of the third quarter of the 19th century. It has a symmetrical facade with paired matching porticoes in the center and two-story bay windows on either side. The house has three stories plus a scoop Mansard roof with scalloped slates and Italianate dormer windows. The trim is in the Italianate style. The Bowditch birthplace, now behind this house on Kimball Court, was formerly on this site; the autYor of Old Naumkeag referred to the present #2 Brown Street as the "Kimball house. " #6 Brown Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This austere brick house is in the Greek Revival style with five-sided, molded window and door lintels on the first floor level, a recessed central front entrance up granite steps and a flat brick entablature under the eaves. It faces Brown Street and has two stories plus a pitch roof and slender end chimneys . B. F. Browne wrote in 1862 that the headhouse of Haraden ' s Ropewalk was on the site of this house, which he said had been built by the late Henry Russell. The brass knocker on the front door of this house is unusual. Howard Street begins . 22. BROWN STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) continued #8 Brown Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This house has Flemish bond brickwork and three stories plus a hip roof, both characteristric of the Federal period. The cornice is composed of molded bricks, and there are no lintels above the windows . The narrow end of the rectangular house faces the street with the door- way at one side of it. The lights and details around the recessed entrance are more characteristic of the Greek Revival style than of the Federal and may represent a later modification. #12 Brown Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof, brick house is very similar to #8; it is laid up in Flemish bond and has no window lintels ; however, the five-bay facade faces the street . The centered front entrance has been modified to a considerable degree and now has a roof supported by Victorian consoles and bay window above. The cornice under the eaves is a molded wooden strip; the original chimneys have evidently been removed. #14 Brown Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) , L-shaped house is gable end to the street. The trim about the windows and the wide over- hanging eaves are simple but heavy. The house with its round-headed windows is a simple example of the Italianate style. Brown Street Court begins. #18 Brown Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This house is a far grander and more ornate example of the Italianate style than # #. next door. It has three stories and a hip roof, ornate paired Italianate brackets, a rusticated facade and varied trim about the windows . The entrance is through a side porch with square columns which were introduced during this period. In front of the house there is a low cast iron fence. The building now serves as the headquarters for the Salem Young Women ' s Association. It is difficult to tell who lived where on Brown Street because the 23. BROWN STREET - NORTH SIDE (Even numbers) cont ' d numbers in 1967 do not seem to agree with the numbers used by some of the earlier writers . However, it seems fairly certain that this house was built by Stephen B. Ives on land previously occupied by the Poynton House, which was moved to the back onto Brown Street Court and has since been razed. (See Brown Street Court. ) If so, this was later the home of Stephen Webb. The Webb family had a long association with Brown Street. Bentley said in 1803 that Captain S. Webb bought the ropewalk in Brown Street, and Browne in 1862 wrote that he was then a retired shipmaster. Stephen Webb ' s son, Stephen P. Webb .was mayor of Salem from 1842. -45, mayor of San Francisco during the hectic year 1854-55 and, again,ma.yor of Salem from 1860-62 . Until very recently there was a large, three-story. plus hip roof, wooden house west of #18 Brown Street. It was said to have been the home of John Osgood, a sea captain and merchant, in the early days, and later the home of the first Filene of the very successful mercan- tile family. BROWN STREET - SOUTH SIDE (Odd numbers) #1 Brown Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This simple, small two-story plus pitch roof building faces Howard Street and has a lean-to attached to part of the rear. The wooden (siding) structure has a three-bay facade, and the ground floor has been altered so that it now has 'shop windows. It is possible that it was built as a shop originally since it is recorded that Nehemiah Adams, the cabinetmaker, removed to Brown Street after his shop burned in 1798. A peek in the window reveals a delicate chair railing with the familiar triglyph and metope motifs . The present owner says that Sarah Symonds, a Salem artist during the first half of the 20th century, had her shop here. #3 Brown Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The basic form, shape and proportions of the two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house suggest that it dates from the Federal period. The high 24• BROWN STREET - SOUTH SIDE (Odd numbers) cont ' d brick foundation and side entrance porch seem. to date from a later period. Perhaps the house was moved to its present, rather crowded situation from some other location and altered at that or some other time. #5 Brown Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL (Italianate) The architectural trim on the facade of this three-story plus hip roof wooden house is clearly in the Italianate style, but the basic shape and proportions of the house seem surely to be in the Federal style. A glimpse at the back of the house confirms the early 19th century origins of this building. #7 Brown Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: 17th CENTURY. The John Ward House. See the Essex Institute, 132 Essex Street, North Side. #15 Brown Street. The back of the Massachusetts State Armory. See 136 Essex Street, North Side. #17 Brown Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roofs wooden (siding) house with its five-bay facade facing Brown Street is a typical example of the Federal period house. It has a delicate wooden cornice, simple pilastered entrance on the street„ as well as a side enclosed and pedimented entrance porch, and numerous ells at the back of the house. #21 Brown Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. Street. This small_ two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house faces Brown/ The first floor of the three-bay facade has now been converted into store windows. Behind the house there are several additions or ells; the porch at the east side of the house was probably an early addition. #23 Brown Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: 1850 's This two-story plus pitch roof brick warehouse was probably built he during 1850 ' s. it is gable end to the street and has segmental arches over the windows and doors and a brick cornice. An old-timer says that it was once Harding' s Blacksmith Shop. 25. BROWN STREET COURT The Court does not show on the 1820 Map of Salem, and was probably (now demolished) not opened up until the time when the Poynton House/was moved back . from the location of the present #18 Brown Street in the latter part of the 19th century. BROWN STREET COURT - EAST SIDE (Even numbers) #4-6 Brown Street Court RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. At the end of Brown Street Court there is a large two-story plus Mansard roof, double house with Italianate trim. It has a balanced facade with a projecting bay in the center and a doorway on either side of it. The house is wooden. BROWN STREET COURT - WEST SIDE (Odd numbers) Opposite #4-6 Brown Street Court was the site , for a time, of the famous Poynton House with its lovely carved pineapple-trimmed The building has been demolished, but entrance. Certain architectural features of this house may now be seen inside the Essex Institute. The house was pre-Federal in style and belonged to Captain Thomas Poynton. Bentley, writing in 1811 said, "Yesterday died Madame Hanna Poynton, aet. 83. She was a Bray and married Captain Thomas Poynton, an Englishman who acquired before the revolution a handsome property and lived in the best style of his day. . . . " Poynton was a Tory who went to England at the start of the Revolution and died there in 1781. How the wives of the loyalist gentlemen who went to England made out staying in Salem is not recorded. 26. CARLTON STREET Both Perley and Bentley discussed the early history of Carlton Street. Perley wrote that it was laid out in or before 1801 and that the area around the northern end was called "Job ' s Field" in 1671. Bentley recorded in 1809 that "Carleton Street lately was a field upon the Cromwell estate. . . . It was known above half a Century ago before the Derby street crossed it, as the Bakehouse field, from the Bakehouse standing on Essex street, and t, it had many Divisions before it was bought by Captain Carlton. . . . " The street was widened in 1852 . Bentley boarded with Captain Carlton ' s daughter, Mrs . Crowninshield, and mentions him as having "carried Richard Derby, who was the father of E (lias) H(asket) . . . to sea with him as boy, seaman & mate. . . . " The name Carlton, which is also spelled Carleton, was a distinguished and familiar one in Salem. A Captain Carlton and his vessel were reported to have been taken by French privateers in the West Indies in 1760, and later he commanded a privateer during the Revolution. Captain John Carlton was master of the ship Putnam, owned in part by Nathaniel Bowditch, when it was boarded by natives near Singapore and six of the crew were killed. Samuel Carlton was elected to the General Court in 1776 and published one of the first Salem newspapers . Michael Carlton, "minister-at-large" during the early 1800 ' s, inspired interest in providing help for those in need; among other things,he and his family took orphans into their home when they lived on Charter Street, and this presumably led to the founding of the present North Shore Children ' s Friend & Family Service Society. It would be interesting to study the development of one of the many streets opened in Salem around 1800 such as Carlton or Williams Street. Evidently it was similar to the subdivisions of today. The lots on Carlton Street are narrow, and therefore the houses are close together and usually gable end to the street. Most of them were probably built during the Federal period shortly after the street was opened, although the addition of 27. CARLTON STREET (continued) Victorian trim around entrances and two-over-two windows has blurred the Federal character of the street. CARLTON STREET - EAST SIDE #1 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This simple L-shaped, two-story plus pitch roof building has its entrance in the yard bordering on Carlton Street. It does not show in this location on the 1851 Map, yet a glimpse through the front door once revealed what appeared to be Federal period stair balusters, and the house has narrow old clapboards. Perhaps the 1851 Map was inaccurate, or the house was moved to this location at a ]&er date. There are several small additions beyond the main house. There is no #3 Carlton Street. #5 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. The form and shape of this house is very similar to #'1 Carlton Street. It is a two-story plus pitch roof, L-shaped Ywooden building with its entrance in the side yard and its narrow end onthe street. However, it has simple e carved and paired brackets under the eaves, which were popular during the Italianate period from 1850-75. The house does not appear on the 1851 Map of Salem, but is on the 1874 Atlas. It is possible that it was moved to this location. #7 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is one of very few Carlton Street houses which face the street. The entrance is in the center of a five-bay facade and is undoubtedly as it was originally built during the Greek Revival period. The original wooden exterior is now covered with siding. The building has two stories plus a pitch roof. #9 Carlton Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This three-story.� wooden (siding) house has a nearly flat pitch roof, which appears to have been raised to provide more space on the third floor. The 28. i CARLTON STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) wide window sills on the first two floors and narrow one on the third are further evidence that the house has been remodeled and is older thn it now appears to be. The entrance is in the side yardyand there are covered porches and stairs attached to the back wall of the house. The round turned posts, which support the roof above the entrance, are typical of the end of the 19th century and were probably added when the house was altered. # ' s 11, 13 and 15 Carlton Street are all quite similar in size, shape and location and are close together on this narrow street. The windows of all three appear to have been changed from the six-over-six form of the Federal and Greek Revival periods to the larger panes, which became popular during the second half of the 19th century. #11 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL. This is a two-story plus pitch roof., gable-end-to-the-street house. The exterior is covered with clapboards . The entrance in the south side of the building has simple Victorian consoles supporting. a small roof above the doorway and was undoubtedly modified during the third quarter of the 19th century. #13 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The narrow end of this two-story plus pitch roof house is on the street, and the entrance in the side yard is sheltered by what is probably a modern projecting, molded pediment supported by wooden trellises . Wooden clapboards cover the outside of the buikhng, which is very close to its neighbor. #15 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The outstanding feature of this two-story plus pitch roof.,gable-end-to-the- street,wooden house is its Federal style entrance in the middle of the five-bay south side of the house. The trim includes a semicircular fanlight, which breaks into the base of an overhead pediment trimmed with 29• CARLTON STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) fine dentil strips . On either side of ,the door there is a flat pilaster trimmed with horizontal projecting strips of molding which are level with the top of the door frame . The windows in this house are modern. #17 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This house, unlike most on the street , faces the street and has its very simple entrance in the middle of a three-bay facade. The house is covered with old shingles , but may originally have had clapboards . The six-over-six windows have been replaced with modern ones, and the old chimney is gone. The house has two stories plus a pitch roof. #19 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house is gable end to the street, and much like most of the other houses on Carlton Street. It probably dates from the Federal period, although the wide overhanging eaves and Victorian consoles-which support a simple roof above the side entrance„make it hard to tell the age of this building. The two-story plus pitch roof house has never gone out of style and is easily remodeled,which frequently makes dating such buildings difficult. #21 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This small pitch roof house has one-and-a-half stories with simple carved brackets under the eaves and above the windows . On the gable or street end there is a small bay window at the second-story level. The entrance on the south side of the house has very handsome carved bracket trim. #23 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden (siding) house faces the street and is directly on it. The entrance is at one side of the facade, and Victorian brackets have been imposed over the original fluted pilasters, which are on either side of the door. There is a lean-to roof on the back of the house ,making it what is commonly called 3a• p CARLTON STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) a "saltbox. " PRE- #25 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: ,-, FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof,clapboard house is gable end to the street, and has the large central chimney which is usually associated with the Pre-Federal period. The house is very close to the ground and has a simple entrance with a small transom above it on the north side of the house . A two-story piazza has been added to the back of the house. #27 Carlton Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. On the surface this appears to be a multiple-family dwelling of the type common around 1900 known as a "triple decker. " It is a three-story plus hip roof. oblong,wooden (siding) building with a recessed entrance on the street or narrow end and three-story porches and stairways attached to the back of the house. The hip roof, wooden cornice and low foundation all suggest that this house was built during the Federal period; it shows on the 1874 Atlas . It was probably remodeled around 1900 . #29 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : INDETERMINATE. As late as the 1897 Atlas there is no house at this location, but rather an outbuilding behind the brick house on the corner of Derby Street. This is a two-story plus pitch roof wooden building, gable end to the street .nd set on a high brick foundation . There is a facade gable on the north side of the house under which there is a very simple double entrance. #33 Carlton Street (See #96-98 Derby Street. ) CARLTON STREET - WEST SIDE #6 Carlton Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This gable-end-to-the-street wooden (siding) house has two stories plus a very shallow pitch roof. The enclosed recessed entrance is at one side of the gable end and has Victorian trim. The simple style of the house an d lack of details make it hard to date on the basis of the exterior. It might be one of the many small Salem buildings Bentley described as "movable" it is on the 1874 Atlas . 310 CARLTON STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) #8 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL. This two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden (siding) house is gable end to the street and has its entrance on the south side. Victorian trim has replaced the original period details, hence the house is hard to date. It probably dates from the Federal period or earlier since it has a large central chimney and very low foundation. There is an ell in back of the house. TWO #10 Carlton Street RATING:/ PERIOD: FEDERAL ' The exterior of this three-story plus hip roof ,wooden house remains more or less as it was originally except for the addition of Victorian scrolls, which have been applied over the original Federal style trim around the main entrance in the side yard. The house is oblong with its narrow end on the street and has a bold wooden cornice of the Federal period. There is a small two-story pitch roof addition on the west end of the house. Fiske Kimball refers to this as the Lambert or Archer house and says it has very fine mantelpieces, strikingly different from those designed by McIntire. #12 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is another relatively simple two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house set with its gable end to the street. Like #10 it has a Federal style entrance with reeded pilasters and a semicircular fanlight, which was modified when Victorian trim was added to it. A two-story flat roof ell has been added to the far end of the house. . #14 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL. The addition of Victorian trim around front doors seems to have been an epidemic in this neighborhood. The owners of this house appear to have caught the bug too, and had it added to what was originally a very simple entrance in the yard of this gable-end-to-the-street house. It is a two- story plus pitch roof wooden building with a small ell attached to the rear. Two large pieces of granite provide a solid pair of steps up to the front door. The house has quite small window openings and the original chimney is gone. There is a small garage in the yard. 32. CARLTON STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) 016 Carlton Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: ca. 1850 . The projecting pediment over the entrance in the tjable or street end of this house is decorated with a handsome and unusual carved shell. The house otherwise is a simple two-story plus pitch roof wooden building with a two-story high bay window beside the entrance. #18 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a small simple two-story plus pitch roof,wooden (siding) house. It is gable end to the street and similar to many other such houses of this peaod in Salem. The simple entrance in the yard south of the house has had a modern canopy added to it, and the original chimneys have been replaced. #20 Carlton Street. The house which stood here formerly was recently demolished. #22 Carlton Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: ABOUT 1900 . This large three-story flat roofed ,wooden house has the appearance of a so-called "triple decker. " The major characteristic of the house is its three-story piazza and outside staircase. Like several other houses on this street, if it was converted into a tenement about 1900, no architectural details or clues of an earlier period are still evident, with the possible exception of rather small windows and the granite and field stone foundation. There was a building on this location in the 1874 Atlas. #24 Carlton Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: ca. 1900 . This three-story flat roofawooden house appears to have been built about 1900. The entrance on the street is through a simple portico, which probably dates from this Colonial Revival period. A change in the clap- boards above the second-story level and the old style granite foundation suggest, however, that this house, like several others on the street, may actually be older than its external architecture appears . There are two very large boxwood plants in the narrow yard in front of the house. #26 Carlton Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD:. THIRD QUARTER. This wooden (siding) house is gable end , to the street and has one story 33. CARLTON STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) plus a pitch roof. The paired brackets which provide the decorative accents are in the Italianate style. Two large dormer windows on the south side of the house appear to be the only major modifications of the house. #28 Carlton Street (See #100 Derby Street. ) 34• CURTIS STREET - From Essex to Orange Street Curtis Street formerly ran all the way to Derby Street until 1915, when it was discontinued about halfway down and turned to con- nect with Orange Street. Perley reports that it was laid out by Widow Hester Eastwick about 1668, and extended to the harbor some thirty years later. From time to time it was known as Esticke ' s lane, Vealy ' s lane and�by 1759, Curtis ' lane. Around 1790, Bentley refers to it as the Lane leading from Captain John White' s to the Wharves. Ac- cording to a manuscript at the Essex Institute known as Salem Estates and Localities, Curtis lived on the west corner of Curtis and Essex Streets and Capt. John white n the east. Other people mentioned by i Bentley as having lived on the street are Chever, Richardson, Hill, William Merriam�a carpenter, and William Browne, a tailor and long- time deacon of the East Church. Benjamin Felt lived there and was a block and pump maker with a shop on Derby Street. On February 3, 1814, Bentley noted that he "Had the pleasure of seeing the flying shuttle at work in a loom in Curtis Street. This invention is a happy one, & this is the first loom I have seen at work in the east part of Salem since I have been an inhabitant above 30 years . " CURTIS STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) #4 Curtis Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. No. 4 Curtis Street is far back from the street; it is a two-story plus gambrel roof house with two simple pedimented dormer windows. The facade which faces the street has five bays and a central entrance with later Victorian trim. The small windows on either side of the door are coupled or paired. There is a two-story ell at one end of the house. #6 Curtis Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is one of three similar gable end-to-the-street, two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden houses on Curtis Street. The simple pilastered entrance is on the north side of the building which still has its old 35. CURTIS STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) continued narrow clapboards . There is a small ell in the rear. The two-over-two windows are not original, of course, and the high brick foundation suggests the possibility that the house was either raised or moved here. #8 Curtis Street RATING: -TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story: plus pitch roof, gable end-to-the-street, clapboard house backs up to #6 Curtis Street. The central entrance is in the yard on the south side of the house and has very fine Federal trim, including a semi-circular fanlight and reeded soffit set in a pediment supported by fluted pilasters. Strung out behind the house are three attached additions, one of which may ha)ebeEn a separate house shown in the same location on the 1874 Atlas. #10 Curtis Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus gambrel roof, end-to=the-street house is similar to others on the street except that it has a brick wall on the north end. The two chimneys on the rear of the house seem to date from the Federal period. The entrance on the south side has an enclosed porch with broad, flat pilasters at the corners typical of the Greek Revival era . Siding hides what are undoubtedly wooden clapboards. The facade cornice is an unusual one made up of three-sided}tapered drops, rather similar to those on the cornice at #34 Chestnut Street and #22 Beckford Street. In the yard there are Seckle pear and cherry trees, typical features of old-time Salem yards. #12 Curtis Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This low-stud, two-story plus pitch roof, clapboard house was probably once a long, narrow building with its gable end to the street. Now there is a small addition similar in style and height on the street end of the original building and at right angles to it. There is little trim evident on this simple house to suggest how old it is, but it is probably of the Federal or earlier period. 36 . CURTIS STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) continued #14 Curtis Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. Outwardly at least, this two-story plus Mansard roof, wooden (siding) house appears to date from the Third Quarter of the 19th Century. Its typical entrance with Victorian brackets is on the narrow street end of the house, and there is a two-story bay window beyond it. CURTIS STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers). #3 Curtis Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Moved south from its original location facing Essex Street, this three-story house shows little signs of the fact that it is actually a fine,L-shaped, hip-roofed mansion of the Federal period. Siding covers what are probably wooden clapboards, and two-over-two windows have replaced the originals . The central entrance of the five-bay facade has a semi--circular fanlight and very delicate trim including paired, reeded pilasters, small modillions and other classical de- tails popular in the Federal period. The wooden cornice under the eaves has a band of delicate rope trim. It was once Captain John White' s house. #7 Curtis Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. Similar to #6 Curtis Street across the way, this also is a two-story plus gambrel roof, narrow, clapboard, end-to-the-street house. The central front doorway has been modified by the addition of a pedi- mented, projecting roof supported by heavy, large wooden brackets . There is a small rear ell. #9 Curtis Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL, This wooden, three-story house faces Curtis Street and has a five-bay facade with a central entrance. Around the doorway there is typical Federal period trim, finely fluted pilasters and delicate modillions. The original front door has been replaced as have the small paned sidelights. The roof is nearly flat and has undoubtedly been changed also; it may once have been a two-story plus pitch-roof house. 37. CURTIS STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd nuumbers) #11 Curtis Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. No. eleven Curtis Street faces the south and perhaps once had a view of the harbor before the Old Ladies Home was built. It is a two- story plus pitch roof wooden building with its gable end on the street. Victorian trim now adorns the central entrance in the south yard where lilacs grow. 38. DANIELS STREET Daniels Street is an old Salem street. Perley found it referred to as a highway as early as 1661, and in 1715 it was known as Ingersoll' s lane for a family who owned land on it during the 1660 ' s. By the mid 1700 ' s it was called Daniel ' s lane andleventuallyyDaniels Street. Bentley wrote in 1809 that Stephen Daniels ' house and the eastern part of Silsbee ' s house in Daniels Street still existed "so that we still have all the houses from which the streets are named. " The Visitors ' Guide to Salem (1892) said that this street led to one of the "town landings" on the South River. This information does not appear elsewhere, but certainly there was activity at the end of the street during the 1600 ' s when Stephen Daniels, the shipwright, built his house at the head of the street and ships at the foot of it. The shoreline at the foot of the street has changed considerably since Salem was first settled, and a point at the foot of Daniels Street had entirely washed away by Bentley ' s time. In 1791 he wrote that "Sawdust and Chips are yet found under the mud from the point off Daniels ' s lane. Foot ' s formerly, and afterwards Elvin' s point. " In 1812 Bentley recounted what Benjamin Ward ' s grandfather, Miles Ward, had told him around 1760 about the changes in Salem' s coast and the shore as he remembered them many years before. "He said that the South River was Salt Marsh all algae the point by Mr. Elvin' s. . . excepting on the Channels and breaches into the Cove. . . (at) the bottom of Curtis Street, he said, where the flats now are, was a point of upland from Elvin ' s land so near to Long point on the opposite side (of the river) as to leave only a narrow passage for the river. The Channel at the Point turned to the Cove between Daniel ' s and Curtis ' streets, & this Cove was first called Palfrey ' s from one Palfrey who first made fish there & the Channel passed out of the Cove towards Stage Point (across the river) . . . where the Channel passes Giggles Island (formerly at the foot of Union Street) was a break to the eastward to this cove of Palfrey, where Mr. Daniels built & launched Vessels. " Ward explained "the cause of this change in the following manner. At 39. DANIELS STREET (continued) the time of the Settlement the Neck and Winter Island were a Timber forest to the edge of the Water. The first thing done was to clear the Neck and Winter Island of their forests to dry their fish & to fortify the neck with two block houses. When the Neck was clear of trees the North East winds which before reached only to Pickering' s Point, on the southeast point of the southfields, had a full course through the Cove between the Neck & Island (where Smith's Pool is) & over the lower part of the neck by the block house, Becket ' s & Hardy ' s land so as to make an entire breach through Elvin' s land. . . . " Elvin' shor Foot' s Point and the houses on it had washed away when Bentley wrote in 1806, "I have seen the well on the flatts below the land south of Daniels Street. " By the late 1700 ' s Bentley refers to both Palfrey' s Wharf and Fogg' s Wharf as being at the foot of Daniels Street. (See also Kosciusko Street.) The 1820 Map of Salem shows two long wharves directly east of the street and a short blunt wharf just west of it at the foot of Kosciusko Street. Various descriptions make it seem likely that Palfrey' s Wharf was west of the end of the street, aid that Benjamin Hawkes and John Babbidge, shipbuilders in the early 1800 ' s, whom Bentley said 'built ships between Derby wharf and Foot ' s point near Daniels street and the old building yard, " had their shipyard west of the end of the street. It would be very interesting to do complete research on these wharves and shipyards and to ascertain the owners of the two east of the end of Daniels Street. The street was busy with activities connected with the sea. B. F. Browne wrote that it was called Wapping Lane, and Rantoul said that when he was young around 1790, the entire area south of Essex Street from Daniels Street to the neck gate was called Wapping, after the dock area in London. Bentley notes between 1793 and 1800 the existence of three or four new stores or shops on Daniels Street as well as the building of several other new buildings. Some of the names connected with the street besides Daniels, Palfrey and Fogg, are Webb, Hodges, Richardson, Welcome, Giles, U. S. Senator Nathaniel Silsbee, 40. DANIELS STREET (continued) Captain Thomas Seaver, Captain Samuel Swasey, captain John Endicott (a sea captain around 1800)• and Captain James Devereux, who later lived on Washington Square East. One of the most noteworthy events which took place on this street around 1800 is described by Bentley as follows: May 5, 1811. On Tuesday last, Bishop Cheverus for the first time since his Consecration & for the first time that a Catholic Bishop read mass, confirmed, baptised & performed other duties of the high office of a Bishop. . , preached to a few Catholics at Mr. Campbell ' s in Daniel ' s Street below Derby street. . . heard his address & it was happy. . . it should be remembered that Bishop Garret, now Arch Bishop, aet. 74, once passed through Salem, tho ' he performed no religious service publickly in it. Whether Mr. Campbell' s house still stands is not known. This old street has been the setting for everyday life in Salem for some three hundred years, the scene of much maritime activity and home to many seafaring men, as well as to their wives and children, the site of shops connected with the sea and, in contrast to the bustle of the above, the street where Salem Catholics must have derived great satisfaction when for the first time a Catholic Bishop read Mass and preached to them. DANIELS STREET - EAST SIDE #1 Daniels Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: 17th CENTURY, enlarged cga. 1750. The so-called Daniels House, named for its first owner, shipwright Stephen Daniels, was first built in 1667 and enlarged in 1756 by Samuel Silsbee 0when the house assumed its present appearance. The older part of the building is the southern half, the interior of which still retains its early characteristics . The five-bay facade now has central entrance on Daniels Street through a reproduction enclosed pedimented porch. The entrance on the south side was the original main doorway to the house. 41. DANIELS STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) The house was repaired during the 1930 ' s and has served as a small guest house and restaurant ever since. An interesting footnote to the Daniels family is the fact that Bentley noted in 1805 that Stephen Daniels widow died. "Both had survived 90 years and lived in . . . High Street . . . (Stephen Daniels) was a Ship Carpenter, remarkable for his temperance, diligence & inflexible integrity. " #5 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus pitch roofywooden house with its gable end to the street and entrance in the south yard is similar to many of this era in Salem. The old clapboards are now covered with shingles, and the original small window sash have been replaced, but the house still has its original enclosed and pilastered entrance porch in the center of the three bay south side. Beyond the house there are two ells, the second of which appears to be newer than the rest of the building. #7 Daniels Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. No. 7 Daniels Street was a .fine brick (Flemish bond) mansion in the Federal style. It is a three-story plus hip roof building with its narrow end on the street. The main entrance, which still has its divided summer door, is in the north side of the house which has six bays . A semicircular fanlight above the entrance, the brick dentil cornice and the reeded splayed brown stone lintels above the windows are typical details of the Federal period. The house was probably built between 1810 and 1820. Beyond the house three-story piazzas have been added, #9 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Back to #7 Daniels Street is what was once probably a nearly indentical three-story plus hip roofbrick (Flemish bond) house built at the same time, since there appear to be no windows on the back of either building. The roof and cornice of this building have been altered, and an ell has been added half way down the original facade which 42. DANIELS STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) covers what was once the original entrance. #11 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The most interesting feature of this house is its original central two-story yenclosed entrance porch. The doorway itself is now trimmed with Italianate consoles, but the projecting molding above the window in the second floor is an indication that this porch is original. The house itself is a two-story plus gambrel roof building with its narrow end on the street and has a large square central chimney. It is covered with siding. In the yard beyond the house, but attached to the house by a two-story bridge, there is a second two-story plus pitch roof house with a lean-to attached to the back gable end. This house, too, seems to date from either the Federal or Pre-Federal period. #13 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a two-story plus pitch roo; wooden (siding) house which is set back from the street on a high stone foundation. The entrance in the center of the five-bay facade appears to have been in the Greek Revival style before a late 19th century raised portico was added to the house. #15 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This three-story flat roofed, wooden house with its narrow end on the street appears to have been built as a tenement. It has a Victorian entrance in the side yard. Behind the house there is an old one-story plus pitch roof 5clapboard chaise house which has been converted into a two-car garage. #17 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This house has an unusual seven-bay balanced facade and overlooks the street. The central entrance is trimmed with simple flat Greek Revival pilasters and an entablature. DERBY STREET CROSSES . 43 . DANIELS STREET - EAST SIIDE (continued) #23 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD : FOURTH QUARTER. This is a typical narrow, wooden, three-story,, flat roof. multiple family dwelling with three-story piazzas attached to the back. Old guide books say Senator Nathaniel Silsbee was born here, but a photo at the Essex Institute shows the house now #27 as the birthplace. #25 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. No. 25 Daniels Street is set back from the street and like #23 is another typical three-storyrflat roof triple decker or tenement built around the turn of the century. This house is puzzling because there appears to be a house in this rather unusual location back from the street in the 1874 Atlas; whether this is a newer or thoroughly remodeled structure is unknown. #27 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus pitch roof house facing Daniels Street has a balanced five-bay facade with a central recessed entrance, obviously a later modification. The small window sash hake also been replaced. There are no remaining exterior architectural features other than the size and shape of this house to indicate its age. The house has a large two-story rear addition and a cinder block garage in the yard. (See #23 Daniels Street. ) Probable birthplace of Nathaniel Silsbee. #29 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMIWE. In the yard beside and behind #27 Daniels Street is a narrow two-story plus pitch roof gable-end-to-the-street wooden house, which is difficult to see and date. The two-story bay on the gable end and two-story piazzas on the iide were possibly added later to a very simple house, but the present proportions of the building do not appear to be as early as the Federal period. #35 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Hidden beneath siding and a later porch is a wooden two-story plus hip roof Federal period house, whose entrance is the middle of the five-bay facade on the north side. The entrance is in an enclosed 44- porch trimmed with reeded corner pilasters and a dentil and modillion i DANIELS STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) cornice, all typical Federal details. The south wall of the house towards the water is brick, and the foundation consists of heavy granite slabs. Beyond the house in the back there is a large two- story plus pitch roof addition which looms over the original building. #37 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This two-story plus pitch roof.,clapboard house is hard to date; its chimneys are gone, . its window sash has been changed, and its simple entrance is hidden by a canopy. The house is gable end to the street. Part of it could have been builft during the 1700 ' s or the early 1800 ' s . The building has irregularly spaced windows and what appear to be some skived clapboards, as well as a stone foundation - all of which make it seem likely that it was built at least one hundred fifty years ago. Beyond the house there is a pitch roof addition on the front of which there is a two-story piazza. #39 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof,,wooden house is gable end to the street and faces south towards the harbor. It probably goes back to the Federal or Greek Revival period, but the addition of a Victorian entrance on the gable end and of a two-story piazza and outside staircase around 1900 have altered its appearance. DANIELS STREET COURT BEGINS. #43 Daniels Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This handsome three-story plus hip roof hots e is in a very poor condi- tion, but its architectural details have all survived, with the exception of some replaced windows. It is covered with clapboards, has a heavy molded cornice, and matching central entrance porches on the north and south sides, each with fluted pilasters and finely molded pediments. The house is on a handsome 1)high 5rough granite foundation, and still has its two large chimneys. Once upon a time the house had an unexcelled view of Salem harbor, but recently a shall 45. DANIELS STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) house has been moved onto part of its frontage, which blocks part of the view. #45 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small two-story plus pitch roof house is gable end to the street ,(right on the water. It has been moved to this location relatively recently. Because of its location it is on a very high stone foundation to protect it from the water no doubt. It is covered with two-tone aluminum clapboards . The tntrance on the side which faces the water is sheltered by a modern aluminum canopy, but appears to be in its original location on what was probably once a three-bay facade. DANIELS STREET - WEST SIDE #2 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is a simple two-story plus pitch roof wooden house with its gable end to the street. The entrance is on the gable end under a portico which is a continuation of the roof of the three-window bay to which it is adjacent. The house is belted at the second floor level and has a wide projecting cornice under the eaves which continues across the gable end. #4 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof wooden (siding) house is set back from and gable end to the street. The entrance in the middle of the south side of the house now has later trim round it, but the pairs of windows on either side of it are close together, which is a characteristic of the pre-Federal period. The house has a long narrow addition on the back end. #6-8 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This large two-story plus pitch roof,wooden house has its gable end on the street. On the north side, which has seven bays, the central entrance has bold Greek Revival trim. The entrance on the gable end is very simpleyup a later flight of stairs . 46. n� DANIELS STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) #8'k Daniels Street RATING: THREE: PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This building, well back from the street between #8 and #10 Daniels Street, is an L-shaped,,,three-story,,, flat m ofdwooden building with a three-story, outside staircase and piazzas at the angle of the ell. #10 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINTE. This three-story flat roofed, lwooden .house appears to be a triple decker of the end of the 1800 ' s, but its recessed central front entrance is trimmed with reeded pilasters and an entablature with a dentil cornice; the house also has two old granite doorsteps. Either the house has been old totally remodeled, or the entrance came from another/house; it is not a copy . Between #10 and #12 Daniels Street there is a small garage. #12 Daniels Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: 17th CENTURY. This small two-story plus pitch roof and lean-to house dates from the 17th century when the portion nearest the street was built. It is gable end to the stree and the entrance t, r nce is in the southern side. The house is now basically L-shaped thanks to a later addition in the yard. The angle of the ell is filled by a recent flat roofed addition. The history of this house should be looked up. #14 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This old three-story plus hip roof building directly on the street has been much altered until it is barely recognizable as a Federal period house. It has a four-bay facade on Daniels Street with two granite steps in front of the entrance, which now is just a modern door; all the trim and style is .gone. The old clapboards are now covered with siding; the windows are two- s over-two, and a three-story piazza and outside staircase attached to a back ell complete the disguise. Not long ago it had a very fine and unusual And balustrade staircase/ at least part of which has now been removed. #16 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house faces Daniels Street. 47 . DANIELS STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) It is a simple example of the Italianate style with paired brackets under the eaves and a canopy supported by consoles over the front door which has been replaced. DERBY STREET CROSSES. #26 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large three-story flat roofed, .,wooden building is a multiple family dwelling built around the turn of the century with details of the Colonial Revival style, ite. , a molded pediment above the recess through which the building is entered and molded lintels above the windows. The overhanging cornice is trimmed with very simple modillions and a dentil 4 strip. #28-30 Daniels Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The five-bay facade of this building is directly on the street and perhaps once had a central entrance. The present very simple doorway is now at the southern end of the facade and is not in any particular style. The building has three stories plus a pitch roof; attached to the batik of the house on the end nearest the harbor is a lean-to roof making it look like a salt-box. The facade window sash has been replaced with two-over-two sash. Between #26 and #28 Daniels Street there is a two-car,,cinder block garage directly on the street, behind which is a tenement. (See #11 Kosciusko Street. ) #34 Daniels Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This three-story flat roofed, ywooden (siding) building is directly on the street and has a central entrance with Victorian trim, up a narrow flight of stairs. The building appears to be a multiple dwelling erected during the latter part of the 1800 ' s. Where #36 Daniels Street formerly stood there now is a parking lot. #40 Daniels Street RATING: THREE PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. _ This is another three-story flat roofed, multiple dwelling. The exterior 48. DANIELS STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) is covered with siding and the building,with its entrance in the side yard, faces Salem harbor. 49. DANIELS STREET COURT - Even numbers #2 Daniels Street Court (See #43 Daniels Street) #4 Daniels Street Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is a typical three-story flat roof, wooden,multiple dwelling of the end of the 1800 ' s. It has a simple Victorian entrance on the Court and three-storypiazza and stairway on the back which overlooks y I the harbor. DANIELS STREET COURT - Odd numbers #1 Daniels Street Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This two-story plus flat roof building, or so it looks from the street, actually appears to have been a simple two-story plus pitch roof building set back from the Court to which a flat roof addition has been added on the front. There is no architectural trim to speak of on which to base a date. There is no #3 . #5 Daniels Street Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This large two-story plus pitch roofwooden (shingles) building is gable end to the Court and quite close to #7 . It is trimmed with very simple Italianate brackets; the entrance is on its south side. #7 Daniels Street Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a two-story plus pitch roof wooden building covered with two colors of siding. There is little of its trim evident now, but the wooden strip under the eaves appears to be the entablature characteristic of the Greek Revival style. The doorway is in the south side in a modern enclosed entrance porch. #9 Daniels Street Court RATING: TWO. PERIOD: CA. 1900. This one-story,�pitch roof,3stucco building was built around the turn of the century as a studio. Here Philip Little, the Salem artist, painted many of the scenes which grace Salem homes and public buildings . 50. DERBY STREET It is rather difficult to discover the exact origins of Derby Street because it was not all laid out at once. The major part of the street seems to be accounted for in this note taken from the town records by Felt: "March 8, 1762. A way of two poles wide to be allowed, from Daniel ' s lane to Becket ' s lane. " The relative newness of the street, however, does not mean that the area was inactive before 1762. Perley believed that prior to the existence of Derby Street there was an ancient way along the waterfront which was later discontinued, and Phillips wrote that most of the first house lots in this part of town ran from Essex Street to the harbor. The cross streets which led to houses near the water existed in many cases before Derby Street; for example, the House of Seven Gables and the Ship Anchor Tavern, which was near the water at the end of English Street and which Bentley said, in 1804, had been disused for about one hundred twenty years . The development of the street was probably closely tied to the history of the wharves near it. Long Wharf, or Union Wharf, at the end of Union Street, was begun in the first half of the 1700 ' s, and although no mention of the first beginning of the street to the wharf has been found by its present name, Phillips ' Map of Salem in 1780 shows Whitefoot ' s Lane leading to and beyond the old Union Wharf. Derby Wharf was begun by Captain Richard Derby in 1762 which, coincidentally, is the same year in which the street was continued as far as Becket Street. Bentley notes talk of extending the street around 1791 and said curtly, "Ropewalk obstructs Derby Street (extension) - detriment. " Later that same year it was extended. During the heyday of Salem' s foreign commerce, from around the time of the Revolution when privateers sailed out to harass the British to the 1820 ' s when Salem' s trade began to decline because the harbor wasn' t deep enough to accommodate the fast new clipper ships, Derby Street must have been a very busy and exciting street where strange new objects were seen and 51. DERBY STREET (continued) smelled and strange tales of wild adventures repeated. It was a street of wharves, houses and shops. Bentley talks of many shops being built there during the latter part of the 1790 ' s and early 1800 ' s; there were coopers ' shops, blacksmiths ' shops, Samuel Emery ' s Mathematical Instrument Shop (where perhaps he designed the compass rose which may now be seen at the Peabody Museum) , Benjamin Felt ' s block and pump store, a Bake House, a Bark House, a hatter' s shop, Shoemaker ' s shop and a small Head House for spinning. One Jonathan Archer, a tanner, barber and assessor, kept a tavern, boarding house and shipping office on the street where he also taught navigation and mathematics - a busy man. John Bicksler, a German, had a brewery at one end of the street and a beer cellar near Union wharf where his sign showed a sailor saying, "Brother sailors, walk down, here, and try a glass of my strong beer. " Bentley was much impressed by the opening there of "a fish market, the first covered one" he had ever seen. Hawthorne, writing of the period when he was at the Custom House during the 1840 ' s, described the street as one of shops; grocers, block-makers, slop-sellers, and ship chandlers. Closely related to sailing was shipbuilding, another waterfront activity carried on in this area. Perhaps the most famous shipyard was near Becket Street, where the Beckets built boats from 1655 to 1887; other shipyards near by were Hawkes, Barker and Magoun and Briggs, who built Derby ' s Grand Turk at the head of Derby Wharf. Despite the fact that many of the old houses and shops have been replaced by larger dwellings, the closeness of the buildings, the remaining old structures, and the glimpses of old houses down the streets on either side of Derby Street still convey a general impression of an old Salem street. Certainly the Custom House, Derby House, Home for Aged Women and Derby Wharf are one of the most impressive groups of buildings to be found anywhere which relate to the early maritime history of this country. 52. DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (The following material about individual buildings on Derby Street treats the buildings in the order in which the average Salemite and tourist sees them from a car; i.e. , going towards the east in the direction in which the traffic flows, hence the numbers are in descending rather than in ascending order.) #222-224-226 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This three-story plus a flat roof, brick building is shaped to fit the irregular size of the lot on which it is situated. It appears to have been built around 1900 and features details popular during the Colonial Revival period, such as splayed, keyed window lintels, quoined corners and a wooden dentil cornice. The facade of the building is unbalanced and the entrance is not central. The western narrow end of the building has a large neon sign and billboard on it, under which a small-paned display window and Federal type reproduction door have recently been installed. #214-220 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This two-story plus a flat roof, brick. building is similar to the preceding builfling in style. The entire first floor, however, consists of shop display windows. UNION STREET CROSSES. #206-212 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This two-story plus a flat roof,brick building is similar to the two above except for the slightly stepped wall at the top of the facade and the double windows under rectangular Lintels. The first floor is lined with store fronts, windows, aluminum doors, signs, etc. #204 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This is presumably a small, modern one-story shop; however, it is impossible to say with any accuracy what is underneath the new brown and pink shiny siding which covers the building. HERBERT STREET ENDS. HODGES COURT ENDS. . 53 . DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) #188 .Derby Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The so-called Simon Forrester House is one of the finest remaining on Derby Street. Set far back from the street on a gentle terraced slope rising from the shore, this three-story plus a steep-pitched hip roof house was designed by McIntire. The five-bay facade with its central pedimented entrance portico is typical of the period. The square supporting columns are thought to be replacements of what were once, undoubtedly, round columns . The house still has its original window sills and c original chimneys . A simple wooden fence encloses the large front yard which contains many shrubs and a fruit tree. According to Bentley, Simon Forrester came to Salem from Ireland when he was a young man and was apprenticed to Captain Daniel Hawthorne on Union Street (one of whose daughters he married.) He 3mught the "elegant but unfinished House of Captain Jonathan Ingersoll, fronting Derby Street, with the Cobb wharf and Store and Flatts" in 1791. In the year 1776 Forrester, who was then thirty years old, commanded the privateer Rover and captured six English vessels. He later became a very successful merchant, and it was he, or one of his sons, who gave the land at the corner of Mall and Bridge Streets for the first Catholic Church in Salem. Bentley also said that he gave "15 hundred Dollars to the Poor, to be given them for a dinner annually from the interest at the discretion of the Overseers. " This early McIntire house is similar to the Joshua Ward House, the Peirce-Nichols and Boardman houses of the same early period in his career. The splendid chimney piece from this house, displayed in the Essex Institute, shows shome of the very fine carving which made McIntire famous. #180 Derby Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a three-story plus hip roof, brick (Flemish bond) house with a five-bay facade overlooking Derby Wharf. The splayed and reeded window lintels are painted white. A flight of five granite steps takes one to 54. DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) the front door through its simple rectangular portico. Above the door there is a semieliptical fanlight and sidelights on either side. On the west side of the house there is a second simple, Federal style entrance with a fanlight. Inlaid in the bricks above the front entrance of the house there is a brown stone with gold Letters which reads, "Home for Aged Women presented by Robert Brookhou�se 1861. " The original house was much enlarged away from the street in a very careful imitation of the original style of the house in 1906 and 1916. The large yard west of the house was once busier than it now looks . Curtis Street, which stops just short of the end of the garden, formerly continued to Derby Street; on the west corner there used to be a large three-story house very similar to #188 Derby Street. In front of the house there was a small shop, which may be seen in a picture at the Essex Institute. Now the yard is enclosed by an iron picket fence, and serenity is offered by the opportunity to sit out in a long, narrow covered colonnade. #180 Derby Street was built in 1810-1812 for Benjamin W. Crowninshield, whose father, George, lived 1= next door then in a house where the Custom House now stands, and .whose brother Jacob lived nearby. One wonders how the Crowninshields liked overlooking the success of the Derby 's wharf since they had many bitter squabbles. Crowninshield, a member of this mercantile fanily, was a member of Gongress and Secretary of the Navy under both Madison and Monroe. Monroe is said to have stayed there for four days in 1817 and a banquet, given here in his honor, included such early American heroes as Commodore Perry, Bainbridge and Judge Story. The house was the home of General James Miller while he was in charge of the Custom House. Miller was a hero of the War of 1812 for his action during the now-forgotten Battle of Lundy'.s Lane, and it seems safe to assume that this sinecure at the Custom House was a fitting reward for a hero and perhaps a fitting reward for a supporter of Andrew Jackson. 55 . DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) #168 Derby Street THE SALEM MARITIME NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The Custom House, an imposing brick (Flemish bond) building, was erected in 1819 and it was here that Nathaniel Hawthorne was Surveyor of the Port from 1846 to 1849, where he is thought to have worked on the "Scarlet Letter, " his first successful novel. Hawthorne, himself, described the Custom House for us . "From the loftiest point of its roof, during precisely three and a half hours of each forenoon, floats or droops, in breeze or calm, the banner of the republic. . . (the building ' s) front is ornamented with a portico of half a dozen wooden pillars, supporting a balcony, beneath which a flight of wide granite steps descends towards the street. Over the entrance hovers an enormous specimen of the American eagle, with outspread wings, a shield before her breast, and, if I recollect aright, a bunch of intermingled thunderbolts and barbed arrows in each claw. . . . " Hawthorne also explained that the building was "intended to accommodate a hoped-for increase in the commercial prosperity of this place _ - hopes destined never to be realized - - and was built a world too large for any necessary purpose, even at the time when India was a new region, and only Salem knew the way thither. " The Custom House is now open to the public, who may see the office where Hawthorne worked and a display explaining some of the story of Salem' s trade. Behind the Custom House is the small, brick Scale House which was built in 1829 and houses some of the different types of scales and measures, whish were used by customs officers to assess cargoes and the duties owed. This building has recently been openedto the public. THE HAWSES HOUSE. This large, three-story plus hip roof, wooden house was begun by Elias Hasket Derby in 1780 . Bentley wrote, "Mr. Derby raised a Great House which he never finished. . .a monument of folly. . . . " Derby decided to move instead to a large house on Washington Street. In 1790 Bentley noted that Derby "is making large preparations at the unfinished 56. DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) House near the Wharf, for a commodious Shed, Saw pit & work yard, for his Ship Building. " The house, which had been planned by McIntire, was finally bought by the shipbuilder, Benjamin Hawkes, and completed about 1801. This house is not open to the public. THE RICHARD DERBY HOUSE. The Richard Derby house is the oldest brick house in Salem. It has two stories plus a gambrel roof, and is an excellent example of its period with a fine pedimented entrance, segmental arches above the broad windows and string courses, a cornice and water table of molded bricks . The house was built in 1761 by Captain Richard Derby for his son, Elias, who became one of the most successful American merchants . It was also at one time the home of Henry Prince, sea captain and merchant, with whom Bowditch sailed as supercargo. The house is open to the public. THE RUM SHOP. This simple, two-story plus a pitch roof, wooden building was moved to this location from the head of Derby Wharf where it served as a sailor ' s tavern during the early 1800 ' s . It is now an antique shop. National Naturally, the/Park Service which administers these buildings has far more information about them than is presented in the above outline. PALFREY COURT BEGINS. #158-162 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: 1909. A sign sunk in the facade of this very large, rectangular three-story brick building announces that it is St. Joseph Hall, built in 1909. The facade of the flat-roofed structure has three bays separated by four flat brick pilaster strips, and the very large windows are topped by segmental brick arches and have rough granite sills . #156 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This simple, two-story plus a pitch roof, house is gable end to the street and has a fanlight in the gable. The building, now used for a cafe and recently rehabilitated in the "Colonial" style, has a simple reproduction, pedimented entrance, shingles over the old clapboards and a narrow, flat- 57. DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) roofed addition on its west side. Its wooden, painted sign, hung on an iron scroll, reads "Derby Cafe. " #154-152 Derby Street, where there was formerly a house, is now a parking area. DANIELS STREET CROSSES. #148 Derby Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: 1900 ' s This small, one-story brick building has a flat roof and is squeezed in on the corner between the houses on either side. It has a neon sign projecting over the sidewalk. $142-144-146 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This large, two-story plus pitch roof, wooden building with heavy over- hanging eaves faces the street. The ground floor is now turned into shops so no architectural details remain on which to base its age. #140 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small, two-story plus pitch roof house has its gable end on the street and is entered through what is now a very narrow side yard; it was undoubtedly there before either of its neighbors and once had a larger side garden. The gable-end, first-floor windows have been made high and wide, presumeably to gain interior privacy. The entrance is now hidden from view, and the house has three television aerials on the roof. #138 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. It is most difficult to rate and date this house which is well back from the street and hidden behind two buildings. It appears to be a two-story plus a pitch roof, clapboard house facing the street with a simple central entrance. The entrance has a Greek Revival style, five-sided lintel above it and narrow, half sidelights on either side. The closeness of the house to the ground and the windows to the eaves suggests that the house precedes its Greek Revival entrance. The Atlas shows a rear addition. 58. DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) #1362 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: 1900 ' s This is a two-story, flat roof, narrow building with a barber shop on the first floor. #136 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is less altered than many of the buildings on Derby Street. It is a two-story plus a gambrel roof, wooden house with its narrow end on the street. The facade in the west yard is balanced with five bays and a central front entrance which has been covered with Italianate trim. #130-1342 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINSTE. This house has obviously been much altered over the years . Now visible from the street is a stucco first floor with three severe, recessed entrances and above that a very narrow piazza partly enclosed and partly surrounded with an interesting railing, which is rather Chinese Chippendale in character, and may actually once have served as part of a widow' s walk. Behind this facade there is a simple, two-story plus a pitch roof, wooden building which is probably Federal in origin. BENTLEY STREET CROSSES. The Reliance Fire hawse stood for many years on the northeast corner of Bentley and Derby Streets until it was demolished a year or two ago. #126 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD:. FOURTH QUARTER. This small, one=story, flat roof shop has a high, fake, flat-topped front and store windows on either side of its typical recessed door. It is not on the 1874 Atlas . HARDY STREET CROSSES . #122 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This one-story plus a pitch roof, wooden shop has its gable end on the street. It is an example of a simple shop of bygone days, which is now nearly extinct. The building is shown on the 1874 Atlas, minus an addition at one side. The basic building has not been greatly altered on the outside. 59. DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) #118 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL. This is a two-story plus a pitch roof, clapboard house with its gable end to the street. The entrance, which now has Victorian trim, is in the middle of what was once a five-bay, balanced facade on the west side of the house. There is a small, one-story pitch roof addition behind the house. #114 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. . This three-story plus a hip roof, brick (Flemish bond) house was built in 1806-07 for Captain Joseph Waters. It has had many alterations over the years, but its basic character and style are still very evident. It has a balanced five-bay facade with a central entrance portico and double-keyed window lintels . The third-floor windows have been blocked up and those on the second floor elongated. Early photographs reveal its former appearance. Bentley wrote in 1805 that "Captain Joseph Waters has bought at 4010 D . (ollars) the Dean Estate on Derby ' s street, corner of Turner' s Street, No. side of Derby street. It was the best House to appearance which was in that part of Town when I came to Salem & had the best gardens around it. It is much decayed & has been long neglected. " Waters, who superintended the building of the Frigate Essex (See Brown Street) in 1799 soon tore down the old house, evidently, and built the new brick one. Old Naumkeag reports that the builder was Penn Townsend, but no other book mentions this fact. In 1877 Salem' s benefactor, Captain John Bertram, founded the Home for Aged Men in the large house, and there it remained until it removed to the Common. The Sons of Poland took over the house in 1929 and in 1967 the House of Seven Gables Settlement Association bought it. TURNER STREET CROSSES. #110-112 Derby Street (See #31 Turner Street. ) #106 Derby Street This small, modern, one-story wooden building is set far back from the street . It is the home of the John Franco Ukrainian Society. 60. DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) #104 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This one-story plus a gambrel roof house is about as big as a minute and as cute. It is wooden, covered with siding, and has three windows in its narrow end directly on the street. The entrance, which is later in style than the house, is in a small addition at one side. #102 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a simple, two-story plus a pitch roof, wooden (siding) house with its gable end to the street. The house has a high brick foundation and may have been raised or moved to this location. Architectural details are few. The simple entrance is .in an ell on the east side of the house. #100 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. It is hard to guess the age of this building because it has no original exterior details to speak of; the old clapboards have been replaced, windows appear to have been moved and altered, and there is a shop entrance on the corner. However, its general shape and height, a two-story plus pitch roof building with its gable end on Derby Street, suggest that it may go back as far as the Federal period. It is not incompatible with the area. CARLTON STREET ENDS. #98 Derby Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This was once a fine, three-story plus a hip roof, brick (Flemish bond) house with all the Federal period details. But many years ago it was converted into a bakery, and since that time a one-story brick addition has been added to the Derby Street facade with piazzas above; a triple decker has also been attached to the eastern end of the house. The careful observer may still see, however, the molded brick cornice, splayed reeded window lintels and, on the west end, one original entrance topped by a semicircular fanlight, all similar to details found onthe Common and Chestnut Street houses. A picture at the Essex Institute shows the building when it was first being altered; the main entrance with its 61. DERBY STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) fine portico was still visible at that time. This house is rated high because it is said to have been the birthplace of General Frederick Townsend Ward. Ward, the descendent of one of the first families in Salem, first went to sea when he was fifteen. After a few years, during which he rose to positions of authority aboard his ships, he joined forces for a brief time with William Walker in a misadventure in Nicaragua. He is next thought to have gone to Mexico and then fought in the Crimean War in the French Army. It is certain, at least, that he was a rolling stone acid a soldier of fortune. In 1859 he landed in Shanghai, where for eight years the Chinese Emperor had been trying to put down the Tai- ping Rebellion. Ward, now twenty-seven years old, soon offered (for a price) to form a small army of men to capture the rebel stronghold. He succeeded in this first venture and soon formed the "Ever Victorious Army, " a well-drilled force of one thousand men, which continued to carry the battle to the rebels until 1862, when he was killed by an enemy bullet during an attack. After this, the perhaps more famous Englishman, "Chinese" Gordon, was placed in command of Ward ' s army. Ward was buried with pomp in a temple built in his honor in China, and until the Japanese invasions of China during the 1930 ' s incense was burned before his grave each day. There are many exciting books about this soldier of fortune who was born in this house; this outline presents merely the briefest account of his adventures. The house in which he was born in 1831 was built by his grandfather, Captain Moses Townsend, about 1805 . The Captain was a shipmaster and later the President of the Union Marine Insurance Company. Some relics connected with General Ward may be seen at the Essex Institute. 62. DERBY STREET - SOUTH SIDE CENTRAL WHARF. This was formerly Forrester' s Wharf; Bentley referred to it as new in 1792. (See also # 188 Derby Street. ) It was the place of business for John Bertram and his partners from 1840-59. (See also Winter Street and the Public Library. ) It is now the United States Naval Reserve Training Center. The present inimpeded view of the water fr=Derby Street didn' t exist in the old days . Early pictures show the wharves covered with stores and warehouses and there were shops on the street. The only remaining old structure in front of the Salem Maritime National Historic Site is the unnumbered building used by the United States Naval Reserve Training Center at the head of Central Wharf, formerly Forrester' s Wharf. It is a long, two-story plus a pitch roof, frame building which, accordin9 to the sign in front, was built before 1832 and was repaired in 1948. It is thought that it may have been put up by Mr. Forrester. DERBY WHARF. Captain Richard Derby began his wharf, which is now nearly 2000 feet long, about 1762. During the Revolution it was used by his son, Elias Hasket Derby, as a base for outfitting privateers. When the Revolution was over it was here that the Derby vessels tied up between their long voyages to the East Indies and China, the Baltic Sea, Africa, Australia and South America. The wharf was enlarged in 1784 and again in 1789. Bentley noted in 1807, "The Derby wharf after the great expenses, not proving secure it was concluded to settle piles on the outer part of the stone work. But by driving, they have not at a great distance found solid bottom. " Three years later he wrote, " . . .busy in repairing the sunken part of the Derby wharf. It had sunk several feet after it had been filled up. Mr. Fogg has undertaken. " Hawthorne, writing of the wharf, said, "In my native town of Salem, (there is) what a century ago, in the days of old King Derby, was a bustling wharf, - but which is now burdened with decayed wooden warehouses, and exhibits few or no symptoms of commercial life, except, perhaps, a bark 63 . DERBY STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) or brig, halfway down its melancholy length, discharging hides; or nearer at hand a Nova Scotia schooner, pitching out her cargo of firewood. . . . " The wharf is now part of the Salem National Maritime Historic Site and will probably once again become an active place this summer for the first time in many years . Simple facilities for boating enthusiasts are expected to be completed by the summer of 1968; the harbor has also been dredged. #159 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL (x) It is hard to know anything about this house since so much of the original exterior has been covered with siding, new windows and additions. Basically, however, it is a two-story plus a pitch roof, wooden house, gable end to the street. The high brick foundation suggests that it has been raised or moved. The side towards Kosciusko Street has been extended so the building is no longer symmetrical. The entrance on the gable end has a molded pediment and wide transom overhead and simple pilastersoneither side. KOSCIUSKO STREET BEGINS. #155-57 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is a four-story plus a flat roof, multiple dwelling in the Colonial Revival style that was often turned out in a stereotyped fashion at the end of the last century. To the west, a one-story addition has been built on to make space for a first-floor store with large plate glass windows. #149-153 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large, four-story, wooden building appears to have been built by the same person who built#155-157 since all the trim and other features are identical. #143 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This house was once a simple, two-story plus a pitch roof, wooden house, probably dating from the Federal period, with an entrance on one side or 64. DERBY STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) the other. Now the entrance is in a projecting one-story-high narrow . addition on the gable or street end with modern windows on either side, and there is another addition to one side. The house is covered with siding. #137 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large, three-story plus flat roof building has not been altered so that one can see that some pains were taken to make it blend in with the Federal period. It has an entrance portico with fluted columns and a dentil cornice; it is belted with dentil strips at the second and third- floor levels, as well as at the roofline. It has a three-story-high, three-sided bay at one side of the entrance. #135 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This house must once have been a twin of #137, but now it' s been built out at the front on the first-floor level and the portico is gone. #131 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is the first of several three-story, flat roof triple deckers which were built around the late 1800 ' s. This one is covered with siding and has few architectural details. #127 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a two-story plus a gambrel roof, wooden (siding) house with its narrow end on the street. The entrance, which is not original, is now at one side in a small addition, and there is a large shop window on the street. #125 Derby Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This solid, three-story plus a hip roof house has suffered from little or no alteration since it was built by Captain Edward Allen in 1768. Its large, square central chimney, quoined corners and enclosed pedimented entrance porch are all typical features of an old Salem house. Captain Allen came to this country in 1757, married a Hodges girl, and evidently was a successful man by 1768 when he built the house. Bentley notes many small 65 . DERBY STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) maintenance jobs being done on the house, such as "Allen painting his House" in 1791; "Captain Allen has covered the roof of his house & store. . . with Tar intermixed with a fine gravel" in 1789; and in 1788, " . . .windy day. . . destroyed the Turret upon the house of Captain Allen. " HARDY STREET CROSSES. #119-123 was a large triple decker which was demolished this year to create additional parking space behind the House of Seven Gables . #117 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is very similar to other buildings on this street; i.e. , it is a three-story plus a flat roof, multiple dwelling with its narrow end on the street. The Victorian console trim entrance is on the street end; beside it there is a three-sided bay extending up to the roof. The cornice is wooden and the house is covered with siding. #115-111 Derby' Street. These houses have also been torn down recently to be turned into parking spaces. TURNER STREET CROSSES. (See #33 Turner Street. ) #109 Derby Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This small, two-story plus a gambrel roof, wooden (shingle) house has its narrow end on the street and a square chimney. It has been much altered since it was first built; i.e. , additions have been made, windows changed, and the entrance has been moved from its original site from one side or the other to the narrow end. #105 Derby Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This house is rated high because it remains as it was built - an excellent example of the small house of the Greek Revival period. The gable end is on the street with the gable pediment clearly defined, a wide entablature, and a doorway framed with typical Greek Revival trim. There is an ell attached to the back of this house and there is a nice, small enclosed yard. 66. DERBY STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) #101 Derby Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This small, two-story plus a gambrel roof house faces the street. It once had a three-bay facade with a simple Greek Revival style entrance at the eastern end altered at a later date. This house had been converted into a shop and was sagging in all directions until this winter when it was bought. It is now being rehabilitated with emphasis on saving all its old features . The house has a lean-to roof in the back where an ea11y addition appears to have been made. #99Derby Street is a modern, one-story store crowded in between #101 and #97 . #97 Derby Street RATING: . TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a large, three-story plus a pitch roof, wooden house overlooking the street and directly on the sidewalk. It has a low, stone foundation, nice granite doorstep and a central entrance in the middle of its five-bay facade. The original entrance trim appears to have been replaced around 1830 when the typical, simple pilastered Greek Revival trim was installed. WHITE STREET BEGINS. 67 . ESSEX STREET. (See also the Old Town Hall District and Historic District West. ) Essex Street is a "long and lazy street lounging wearisomely through the whole extent of the peninsula with Gallows Hill and New Guinea at one end, and a view of the almshouse at the other. " wrote Hawthorne in the introduction to The Scarlet Letter, but despite his somber description of it, he went on to write, "This old town of Salem - my native place, though I have dwelt much away from it, both in boyhood and maturer years - possesses, or did possess, a hold on my affections, the force of which I have never realized, during my seasons of actual residence here. " Essex Street and Washington Street are the two oldest main thoroughfares in Salem. Bentley, writing daily about happenings in his neighborhood, mentioned the street very often. When he first came to Salem in the 1780 ' s he usually called it either Bow Street or the street leading to the Neck, and Bow Street is also what the 1773 Committee Report of street names in Felt ' s Annals called it. Gilbert Streeter, writing in the Essex Institute Historic Collections in .1896, said it was called Bow Street because it followed a curved ridge of sand from which the land sloped away to the water on either side. A glance at Saunders ' 1820 Map shows that this is probably an accurate assumption. Perley believed that the street was probably a path used by Indians before Salem was settled. Within a few years after the founding of Salem it must have become a regularly used street; it was the only way to get to Winter Island and the Neck, to the ferries to both Beverly and Marblehead, and to the blockhouse and forest on the Neck. It did not take many years for Salem' s first citizens to move to lower Essex Street. Now demolished, the old Gerrish House near the corner of Forrester and Essex Streets was built by Nicholas Bartlett in 1644. Philip 68 . ESSEX STREET (continued) English' s great mansion, whence Mrs. English was taken to jail as an accused witch, was near the corner of English Street, and the Hollingsworth House, or Blue Anchor Tavern, was south of that. The Murray house on the corner of Essex and Turner Street, the Narbonne House, and the Daniels House were all built during the 1600 ' s, and are visible reminders of the early development of Salem and its rapid growth away from the center of town along the waterfronts from which most of its citizens derived their livelihoods. By the late 1700 ' s it must have been a very busy scene with big and small houses, shops and workshops of all kinds, ropewalks, malthouses, etc. Bentley often called it the "Great Street. " .The names of his neighbors which keep appearing and reappearing in his Diary are almost all connected with the maritime development of Salem. This must have been a noisy, busy street, and even at times disorderly. Bentley wrote in 1791 that "The Overseers (of the poor) . . . ordered into confinement the infamous family of Burke. . . The G. G. Mother, G. Mother, Mother & children, who long near the Neckgate have been infamous for all the vices. " Like any main street, it has been the scene of many important local events . During the summer of 1774, on August 24 Governor Gage ordered a Regiment of Red Coats stationed on the Neck to march to Town House Square to disperse a Town Meeting where freeholders were choosing delegates to a county convention; the tr000ps marched up Essex Street as far as Hawthorne Boulevard only to find that the meeting had chosen its delegates and adjourned. This end of Essex Street seems to have been very clannish and stable. The name of Silsbee is connected with many of the houses on the street as well as with houses on Daniels Street. The very large Hodges family also lived in many of the houses on the street; there 69. ESSEX STREET (continued) : were six Hodges brothers noted for their great heighth. Philips wrote that " . . .when the shortest of six brothers was captured by a . British frigate and his size remarked upon (he was six feet six) , he replied that he was the shortest of six brothers. " Other familiar old Salem names connected with tha street are Andrews, Very, C=wninshield, Babbidge, Webb, Gray, Manning, Archer, Cheever and Masury. One unfortunate soul who lived on the north side " Lambert who died of small ox here abt. of the street was old W. (who) P ' 70 or '80 . - he caught it from air blowing from M'head ferry 40 or 50 caught it of him and died. " 70. ESSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE Carlton Street begins . #33 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This large, wooden two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house is gable end to the street and rests on a high stone foundation. The entrance is on Essex Street in the middle of the five-bay gable end of the house, and has a typical Greek Revival style window treatment around the doorway. The Victorian consoles at the entrance appear to be a later addition and are very similar to some on Carlton Street. #35 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL (?) This is a two-story wooden (siding) house with a so-called "Dutch" , gambrel roof that is not common in Salem. The lower slope of a Dutch gambrel roof curves out at the bottom, instead of slanting in a straight line. The doorway is in the side yard and is trimmed with pilasters and a dentiled cornice. There is an ell attached to the rear of the house and a cinder block garage in the yard. Three dormer windows provide light on the top floor; all the window openings in this house are small. #37 Essex Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This three-story oblong house has a flat roof and appears to be a typical triple decker. It has simple brackets under the eaves as its only ornamentation. The wooden house is now covered with siding. TURNER STREET BEGINS. #39 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: 17th CENTURY. Despite many alterations and two colors of siding, which is hardly appropriate on a house of this vintage, this building is rated number ONE because it dates from the seventeenth century, and hence is one of a small number of such buildings in New England. Its outstanding exterior feature is its very steep pitched roof which is evident from Essex Street and which may be compared with the more usual pitch roof on the back half of the house; it seems likely that the back half 71. tSSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) was raised at one time to give added room to the third floor. The house is a two-story plus pitch roof building with its gable end on Essex Street; long and narrow, it runs parallel to Turner Street. The fron' end of the building is now used as a shop and has large store windows. Some of the other two-over-two windows are now being replaced with six-over-six sashes . The simple entrance to the house is in the west yard. The building is known as the "Murray House" and was built during the latter part of the 1600 ' s . It was built by William Murray and stayed in his family until 1795. Inside on the first floor there is one very handsome carved post visible at the present time. #41 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a typical, simple two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house with its gable end to the street. The entrance, trimmed with pilasters, is in the middle of the five-bay western side of the house. The chimneys of this house have been removed. #43 Essex Street A filling station has replaced the old building which stood on this locationand was known as the Zachariah White house. It was built by John Day during the 1700 ' s and seems to have been the Crown Tavern at one time. HARDY STREET BEGINS. #45 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is another excellent example of a Greek Revival. house of the relatively simple type. It is a two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house with its gable end on the street; the recessed entrance is at one side of the three-bay gable end and is trimmed with pilasters. The wide wooden entablature was a favorite device of the Greek Revival builder. Bentley ' s East Meeting House occupied this corner from 1718 until 72. �s ESSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) it was demolished in the 1800 ' s . #47 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This narrow two-story plus pitch roof, wooden building is in the Italianate style and has details typical of the style, which include brackets and pendants under the eaves, hood moldings above the windows, an entrance trimmed with ornate carvings and a bay window above. BENTLEY STREET BEGINS. #49-51 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. The wide entablature under the eaves of this two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house identifies it as having been built in the Greek Revival style. The original, indented, central doorway on the gable or street end has been altered by the addition of heavy brackets supporting the roof overhead and a bay window above. The house is a wide one. #53 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL (?) This is a simple, two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house with its gable end on the street. The entrance is on the long west side of the house and is hidden under a covered modern porch. The house is on a high brick foundation which is probably not original. The Daniels House. See #1 D9niels Street. DANIELS STREET BEGINS. #59 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : PRE-FtDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof, wooden (siding) house has been subjected to much remodeling over the years. It was built .about 1750-60 by Edmund Whittemore, . a carpenter, according to the manuscript list of Salem Estates and Localities at the Essex Institute. The recessed entrance on Essex Street and the siding and removal of the original chimneys are among the most noticeable changes. Inside there is a fine box staircase with typical pre-Federal balusters . 73• ESSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) #65 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This small one-story plus Mansard roof, wooden house is in the Italianate style; it rests on a high granite foundation and is irregularly shaped. Other details which were popular during this period include the carved brackets and trim under the eaves, the pedimented dormers, and bay window. The house is scaled to fit well on its small lot and also to blend with the earlier houses which are more usual along Essex Street. Thomas Beadle ' s old Tavern stood on this location until it was demolished in 1866. #65z-67 Essex Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This house is a triple decker; it appears to be a typical multiple family dwelling with few architectural details and was probably built about 1900 . It is a three-story wooden building on a high brick foundation and has a flat roof. The recessed double entrance is in the center of the facade and there is a two-story bay window west of it. This was the location of Captain Andrew Preston 's house, and Robert Rantoul, his grandson, recalled having stood there at a window to see a cannon fired by the Common in 1781 when news that Cornwallis had surrendered was broug?nt to Salem. #67Z Essex Street RATING: TWO, PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story plus pitch roof house is in the yard of #69 Essex Street and has its gable end towards the street. The entrance at one side of the gable end has typical Greek Revival details. The house is L-shaped and the view from the west side shows a very unusual gambrel roof, which suggests that the house, or parts of it, may actually be older than the Greek Revival trim suggests. A picture of the house in the Essex Institute files states that it was built by Moses T. Upton, whose family owned the house nearer the street, now #69. 74• ESSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) #69 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: 17th CENTURY. Although this house, with a shop in the gable end on Essex Street, does not seem similar to the Narbonne House next door, part of it was built during the same period. It is believed that the half of the house furthest away from the street was built by Samuel Robinson, a baker, then sold to Michael Chapleman, seaman, in 1669. Nathaniel Silsbee, Jr. , a house carpenter, bought it in 1700. It remained in the Silsbee family for nearly one hundred years . Nathaniel Silsbee, United States Senator from 1826 to 1835, was supposedly born there in 1773 . The house has two stories plus a pitch roof and is very long and narrow with its gable end on the street. Its length makes it easy to believe that half of the house was added to an already existing house at some time. The list of houses in Salem around 1800 says, "Silsbee House back from the street" in reference to this location. Bentley ' s note in 1790 that "Silsbee near the meeting house raised a frame adjoining to his Store & Dwelling House" may indicate when the newer or street half was added. #71 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: 17th CENTURY. This fine 17th Century house has long been known in Salem and has recently been acquired by the National Park Service which plans eventually to put it in condition and open it to the public as part of the National Maritime Historic Site on Derby Street. The yard of this house and that of the Richard Derby house have a common boundary. The house, like others in Salem, consists of an original building, the two-story plus very steep pitch roof portion with its gable end on Essex Street, a gambrel roof addition beyond in the yard, and a lean-to behind the original house. The early so-called half-house with an enormous chimney at one end was easily enlarged by adding 75. ESSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) rooms as they did in this case around the large chimney for the necessary additional fireplaces . This is a more simple 17th Century house than Salem' s famous House of Seven Gables, and Witch Huse, but it shows the growth of such a house and has had very few changes made in it. The house was built around 1670 and has been the home of fisher- men, mariners and ship joiners. By the 1800 ' s it belonged to John Andrew, whose niece, Mrs. Narbonne, inherited it. There is a Narbonne School in California named for one of their early New England settler ancestors who was a member of this family. #73 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden house is L-shaped and has one narrow end on the street. The house was built during the mid 1700 ' s by one of the large Hodges family. The answer to which Hodges lived where and when on this part of Essex Street will require research since they lived in various houses up and down the street. - The 1800 list says that it was built by Captain Joseph Hodges. The house has been changed somewhat, but it still has many of its early characteristics, including molded window pediments above the windows. It seems probable that the house was raised on a new high foundation at one time, and that the location of the entrance withidi the portico is a later change also. #81 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD : PRE-FEDERAL. This two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden house faces Essex Street with all the confidence of a handsome house which has needed no changes to be stylish. It has a particularly fine cornice under the eaves and a handsome central entrance of the Federal period, obviously a change which took place many, many years ago. The house originally had typical 76. ESSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) cap moldings above the windows, which were probably replaced as a necessity; one original window may still be seen in what is now an inside attic partition. There is a small two-story ell behind the house on Orange Street which probably was added to the house shortly after it was built, or may have been original. A second early L-shaped dependency is attached to the eastern portion of the house, which makes the whole structure roughly U-shaped. This house, like #73, was also built by a member of the Hodges family. The 1800 list says that it was built by Benjamin Hodges, Esq. ORANGE STREET BEGINS. #83-85 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large, two-story plus Mansard roof, double house was built on the site of Captain Joseph white ' s house after it was moved back to #3 Curtis Street. It has three-sided balanced bays on either side of the front portico and paired entrances. There are arched windows in the gables above the bays and a balustrade on top of the portico. Simple scroll carving decorates the second-story windows. The house is on a high foundation. and the entrances are up a flight of granite steps. CURTIS STREET BEGINS. #91 Essex Street RATING: TWO, PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house appears to be a simple example of the architecture of the third quarter of the 19th century, and is in the 1874 Atlas . It has a small modillioned cornice under the eaves, simple window lintels and is irregular in shape. A three-sided, two-story bay projects from the northwest corner of the house and a second three-sided ell juts out on the opposite corner. The entrance to the house is on Curtis Street . #95 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This complex, two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden house shows signs 77. ESSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) of changes and growth during the years and still it retains the major characteristics of a Salem house of the 1700 ' s. Like #' s 81 and 83 Essex Street it seems to have been a Hodges ' home for many years . HODGES COURT BEGINS. #97 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This simple two-story plus a gambrel roof, wooden house faces Essex Street. The front entrance in the middle of the five-bay facade is now double; presumeably this was not always the case. Two of the side windows still have the characteristic pre-Federal crown molding lintels which have not had to be replaced. Behind the house there is a small two-story plus gambrel roof ell and a further addition beyond that. This may be the house which is listed as belonging to Captain Benjamin Bates in the 1800 list; the date given for the house is about 1770. #99 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Although this house is similar in shape and size to #97, it is definitely a house of the Greek Revival period. It has two stories plus a pitch roof and has a five-bay facade on Essex Street. The central recessed entrance has typical Greek Revival details including pilasters and a five-sided lintel above. The house also has a characteristic wide entablature under the eaves. HERBERT STREET BEGINS. Between Herbert and Union Streets there is now a parking space used by the patrons of the Hawthorne Motor Hotel. Abraham Watson who kept the schoolhouse across Union Street once lived here. UNION STREET BEGINS. #105-107 Essex Street. (See # ' s 2, 4, 6 and 8 Union Street. ) 78. ESSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) #109 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This three-story framebuilding on the corner of Essex Street and Hawthorne Boulevard appears to have been much altered. The roof is not typical, and the store front on Essex Street which is divided by pilasters appears to have been installed during the Colonial Revival period. Whether the bold pediments above the windows and cornice under the eaves were installed at the same time is unknown; they are very handsome and quite unique. Whether this is a remodeled old house or not is unknown, but it is the site of a house where " . . .Col. Turner ' s widow lived •*• - her son Habakkuk kept an apothecary Shop in it - Edward Gibaut took it after Mrs . Turner' s death. (Gibaut was a great friend of Bentley ' s:) At his death Dr. Holyoke removed there, kept the shop til he married when he removed to the old Lindall house. . . . .. This material is in the 1800 list at the Essex Institute. HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD BEGINS. #121-123 Essex Street (See #2 Hawthorne Boulevard, of which this small simple shop is a part. ) . #125 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This simple, two-story plus a gambrel roof., wooden house is gable end to the street and remarkable in that it is the only remaining wooden gambrel roof house left on what is known as downtown Essex Street. The house has been altered and now has a recessed entrance on the gable end instead of one on either of the long sides of the building. There is a fanlight in the third story of the gable end. #127 Essex Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: 20th CENTURY. This one-story, flat roofed row of shops was built about thirty years ago. #129 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. 79• ESSEX STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) This large three-story plus hip roof, brick (Flemish bond) mansion was designed by Samuel McIntire for Gideon Tucker in 1809. Tucker was a partner of Joseph Peabody, one of Salem' s most successful merchants during the 1800 ' s. All of the bills connected with its building are contained in the Tucker papers at the Essex Institute, and the original front portico is now attached to the back of the main building of the Essex Institute. The building has been altered from time to time, but its five-bay facade still has much of the flavor of a Federal mansion. The building belonged to the Father Matthew Catholic Total Abstinence Society from 1896 until the middle of the twentieth century. #131 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Although the facade of this large, three-story plus a hip roof mansion is now hidden behind a later commercial addition, from the sides and back it is plain that the house is a Federal period mansion similar to #129. It was built in 1807 for Moses Little and is thought to have been designed by Samuel McIntire. After Little ' s death it was bought by Simon Forrester for his daughter and her husband, Gideon Barstow. 80. ESSEX STREET - NORTH SIDE The list compiled around 1800 of Salem Estates and Localities, which is at the Essex Institute, does not help to identify many buildings on the northern side of Essex Street; so many of the old buildings have been demolished to provide parking spaces and public schools that it is not possible without further research to discover who lived where on the list. #502 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: 1850 ' s The Gardner Maynard Jones Memorial Library occupies what was once the Bentley School. The old brick schoolhouse was remodeled a few years ago and made into a one-story building for the East Branch Library. It is set back from the street and has five large windows on the street side. The simple entrance is on the west side of the building. The conversion of the building was done with respect for its original architectural details. At this point it seems worth mentioning that east of the library and back from the street, hidden behind a twentieth century store, is half of the so-called Babbidge House, which was bought by Richard Derby for his daughter, Mary, when she married George Crowninshield in 1757. Earlier writers usually state that the house dates from the 17th century, but the present exterior strongly suggests that the old house was torn down and a new one built at that time. Half Jthe house was separated and moved to Grant Street (now Kosciusko Street) when the house was moved back from the street to make room for the present building. It is impossible to identify the removed half, if it does, in fact, still exist. This house is not within the district. #52 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a fine three-story plus a pitch roof, wooden house wifh brick ends which faces Essex Street. It has a handsome, enclosed pedimented entrance porch trimmed with a modillioned cornice and fluted pilasters . 81. ESSEX STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) It is interesting to notice that there are no windows on the east side of the house; whether this was because there was alreadybuild ' a building very close to that side of the house when it was built or to minimize the effect of cold east breezes is open to conjecture. The house is known as the Sage-Webb-Wilkins House. Daniel Sage lived there for a time until he died, after which Benjamin Webb, an apothecary, bought the house - Benjamin 's shop was down the street in 1805 nearly opposite Herbert Street. According to Browne, one' William Webb opened an apothecary shop in 1823 in the hip roof building just been west of this house. The relationship is not known, but must have/very close. #54 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus a steep hip roof, wooden building has its narrow end on the street. It is a simple building with a shop on the first floor; the rest of it appears to have had very few alterations made in its original design. This building seems to have been a shop for many years . It was Webb' s Apothecary Store during the early 1800 ' s and was a cent store later. Some of the other early shops in this general vicinity were Captain Manning ' s Gunsmith Shop and "shops belonging to W(illiam) G(ray) . . . painters and barbers - the chamber was called poplar Hall - people used to meet here - poplar chairs made here. " The latter quote is taken from Salem Estates and Localities at the Essex Institute. #56-58 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is a two-story plus a Mansard roof, wooden house with a balanced facade. In the center of the facade are an adjacent pair of doors with bracket trim. On either side of the doors are three-sided, two-story high bay windows. #60 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is a very simple, two-story plus a pitch roof, wooden (shingle) house. 82. ESSEX STREET NORTH SIDE (continued) It is gable end to the street and now has a simple show window in the gable end. The building is simple in form, shape and design and has been altered very little; it has only slightly carved bargeboards as decorative features, and it blends well with the older houses on this street. #66-68 Essex Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This very large, two-story plus pitch roof, wooden building was built as a double or even triple house during the latter part of the nineteenth century. Its irregular shape, which was stylish at that time, is hard to analyze. It also has a high foundation with zipper brick strips and two bay windows on the Essex Street side; one on either side of the central recessed entrance. Under , the eaves there is a dentil cornice. WASHINGTON SQUARE EAST BEGINS. #70 Essex Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is another of the large Italianate houses which replaced some earlier Salem homes during the third quarter of the 19th century. It is a two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house facing Essex Street. It is trimmed with Italianate brackets and has a recessed central door with a bay window above. #72 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. It is difficult to date this small, simple gable-end-to-the-street house. It has two stories plus a pitch roof, and the clapboards are covered with siding. The entrance is through the east side and has simple pilaster trim. #74 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus a hip roof, rectangular, wooden house is hidden behind two-over-two windows and siding which detract from its original Federal style. The reeded pilasters and semicircular fanlight which adorn the side entrance are also hidden under a later canopy. There is an ell at the rear of the house. #76-78 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a fine example of a Greek Revival two-family house. It has two 83. ESSEX STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) stories plus a pitch roof and faces the street. The six-bay facade is covered with matched boards, and the window trim is typical of the style. The central double doorway is separated by a partition and recessed; the exterior of the recess is framed by pilasters trimmed with fretwork. The house has two chimneys at either end and four adjacent eyebrow windows in the front pitch of the roof. The Phillips School (see #50 Washington Square South) is also on Essex Street. The addition on Essex Street is brick and has three stories; it was built in 1924. This school covers land where once ther+ust have been several old houses. The street numbers jump from 78 to 94 beyond the school. #94 Essex Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER, This is a large, two-story plus Mansard roof house on a high foundation. It is trimmed with Italianate brackets and fish-scale slates . The central entrance and portico has a three-sided bay on either side. There is an ell behind the house. #96 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is a simple, two-story plus a gambrel roof, wooden house which has not been marred architecturally by alterations . It is gable end to the street and has a simple entrance trimmed with later Greek Revival trim in the middle of the five-bay facade in the east yard. There are two simple pedimented dormer windows in the roof and �'an ell in the back. #98 Essex Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a three-story plus a hip roof rectangular house with its narrow end onthe street. Some of its old clapboards have been covered with shingles. A pedimented enclosed porch in the yard on the west is the main entrance to the house. The porch is trimmed with reeded pilasters and a dentil cornice - typical Federal details. Thereis a small rear ell attached to the main house. 84. ESSEX STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) #100 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This run-down, large, wooden house is a more elegant Greek Revival house than most of those in Salem. It has two stories plus a pitch roof and is gable end to the street.. The matched board facade on the west side of the house has corner pilaster strips and its entrance appears to have been somewhat altered by the addition of a storm porch. Beyond this entrance there is a two-story columned open porch. The house has a high stone foundation and a typical wide entablature under the eaves . There is a small pitch roof ell in back of the house. #102 Essex Street. This is now a large hot top parking area which belongs to the Hawthorne Motor Hotel. It was formerly the site of several old Salem houses, including the house where Madame Babbidge taught many generation of Salem children, and the Crowninshield-Bentley 'louse, which is now on the grounds of the Essex Institute. #112 Essex Street (See Washington Square West. ) The Hawthorne Motor Hotel. WASHINGTON SQUARE WEST BEGINS. #132 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: SEVERAL. The Essex Institute at the corners of Washington Square West and Essex Street has several prime buildings on its grounds, all so familiar to citizens of Salem that no lengthy descriptions of them are necessary. I The John Ward House in the yard behind the Institute is a prime formerly example of 17th century architecture; it/stood on St . Peter Street. The Crowninshield-Bentley House serves to teach how houses looked in the early years of the 1700 ' s, as well as having been the first Salem home of the famous Crowninshield family and Bentley' s boarding house. The brick Pingree House with its fine details is undoubtedly McIntire ' s most well- known surviving building and is enjoyed by students and tourists each year. Smaller buildings in the enclosure include the Doll ' s House made from 85. ESSEX STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) the remains of the first Quaker Meeting House in Salem, a cobbler' s shop, the cupola from the Pickman-Derby-Brookhouse House with its interior scene painted by Corne, and the brick chaisehouse behind the Pingree House. The building which the Institute, the Museum and library occupy consists of the Tucker Daland mansion (1851) on the east and Plummer Hall (ca. 1857) on the west; the buildings are bridged b a brick portion _ 9 g Y on which has recently been greatly enlarged. About/the general site of Plummer Hall was the home of Captain Joseph Gardner, who died fighting the Narragansett Indians in 1675 . His widow married Governor Simon Bradstreet, who then moved into the old house. William Hickling Prescott, the famous historian, who later lived in Boston, was born in a house that once stood in this enclosure. #134 Essex Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: ca. 1900. The massive Salem Armory is a landmark and was built in 1908 on the site of the home of Captain Joseph Peabody, which had been used for armory purposes before it was razed to make way for the new building. The long, narrow structure has two stories and crenelated towers at either corner. The windows and recessed entrance on the narrow end on Essex Street are Gothic in style. The structure extends through the block to Brown Street. 86. FORRESTER STREET Perley found references to the lane down to ye cove as early as 1667, meaning the west end of present-day Forrester Street. A few years later the lane, which ran beside a creek draining from the Common to a cove half way down the street, was called Gerrish ' s lane, undoubtedly after the Gerrish family who lived in an old house at the corner of Forrester and Essex Streets . By 1804 the street had become known as East Street, although it also was called Gutter Lane during the same period. About 1850 the name was changed to Forrester Street, which had formerly been the name of that part of Bridge Street from Winter to Washington Street. Forrester Street evidently ran beside a creek, which drained the ponds on the Common and flowed easterly into the marsh and cove beyond the point where the street branches onto Essex Street. According to Perley the creek was not entirely filled in until the 1850 ' s . The lots on the south side of the street faced on Essex Street originally, and Bentley writing in 1811 about a very high tide said, "And yet it overflowed none of the Gardens between East and Essex Streets in which boats might float at high tide when I came to Salem. " Browne, in his recollections of the street during his youth about 1800psaid that there was only one house on it at that time - that of the Richardson ' s . The schoolhouse which had been on the Common was moved to the south side of the street in 1803 and still later moved to #14 Webb Street, where it is still thought to stand, now converted into a residence. Beyond the school there was an open field. A ropewalk run by the Foye family at the foot of the street ran across the marsh to the cove. On the northern side of the street there was a tannery, which was begun by John Ives and eventually bought by Nathaniel Richardson in 1770 . In 1794 Bentley wrote, "tried new windmill without success, " referring to a windmill put up by Richardson with the hope that it would grind bark. This same Richardson was 87. FORRESTER STREET (continued) 1 killed in 1796 when a building he was helping to move fell on him. Browne, who wrote there was only one house on the street when he was young, also said that Nathaniel Richardson, the tanner, laid out the street in 1793 . Perley ' s statment that he found early references to it .and Bentley' s note in 1798 that "Masury' s old House, East Street, taken down!' suggest that Browne was mistaken and the street is a very old one. The fact that it was improved "by a Bridge and Drain" in 1795 undoubtedly increased traffic on then East street, which probably accounts for the fact that Browne thought it was a new street when he was a boy. Forrester Street was extended to Webb Street in 1872 after the cove was filled in. FORRESTER STREET - EAST SIDE #1 Forrester Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof,wooden house on the corner of Washington Square East and Forrester Street faces Forrester Street. It is probably the oldest house on the east side of the Common, although its age is open to speculation. Some say it contains parts of a very old 17th century house and belonged to the Ives family; others say it was built in 1770 . It is commonly known as the Whipple house and was for a time the home of the Whipple family, which engaged in a thriving gum copal tziade and business . (See White Street.) The large, square central chimney of this house and the paired windows are both characteristic of the Pre-Federal period style . The atrance in the middle of the five-bay facade is in an enclosed pedimented porch, which has reeded pilasters at either side; it is outlined by a twisting wisteria vine growing on a wooden trellis. There are several additions on the east side of the house. ' 88, FORRESTER STREET (continued) FORRESTER STREET - WEST SIDE #2-4 Forrester Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This handsome. large two-story plus hip roof wooden house was obviously built for two families. The facade overlooks Forrester Street and has a matched board exterior and a gable above the two deeply recessed entrances, which are separated by a partition. The central portion of the facade projects slightly. The house has many external details, which are ornate and elegant. These include fleur-de-lis, Gothic drops, Italianate paired brackets and a variety of window treatments, but the house is large enough and they are used skillfully enough to result in a very pleasing building. The house shows no signs of alteration; it stands on a high granite foundation. 89. HARDY STREET Hardy Street was laid out between Essex and Derby Streets by Joseph and John Grafton between 1667 and 1670, according to Perley, and in 1683 they continued the twenty foot wide lane to the water. It was first known as Grafton ' s Lane. By 1747 Perley wrote that it was called Hardy ' s Lane after the Hardy family, whose estate was on the bank of the South River on the west side of the street. Joseph Hardy was a successful shipbuilder here in the early 1700 ' s, and his mansion which Bentley said was "among the oldest of our houses" was demolished in 1825. Bentley also made mention of the Pope house there as having been built in the 1600 ' s; what has happened to this building is not known. Perhaps it has disappeared along with the "Allen pear tree;' which the"Visitors ' Guide to Salemt (1892) said was nearly as old as the Endicott pear tree. The old East Church,where Bentley preached, stood on the southwest corner of Hardy and Essex Streets from 1717, when it was built,.until it was demolished in the middle of the 19th century. Bentley' s predecessor, the Reverend James Diman, lived in an old gambrel roof house with an interesting end overhang, which was at #8 Hardy Street. This house is now gone . During the end of the 1700 ' s and early 1800 ' s there were changes made in all of this neighborhood because of the success of Derby ' s and Crowninshield' s wharves and Salem' s prosperity. Old houses were taken down and new ones built. Bentley wrote that Dean ' s, Collins ' and Webb' s old houses, all on Hardy Street, were demolished, and he mentions new additions and new houses being raised. A Mr. LeFevre, who won some money in a lottery, built a house on Hardy Street below Derby, and Bullock' s new house was built in 1800. Mr. Putnam, "the undertaker, " or builder, erected Captain Stone ' s new house in 1807. 90. HARDY STREET (continued) Perhaps the most famous resident of the street was Captain William Driver, who first called the American flag "Old Glory. " According to the 1837 City Directory, Driver lived at #14 Hardy Street. As a boy he was apprenticed to blacksmith Abner Goodhue, but like many other Salem lads, he soon tired of this and left home to seek his fortirB at sea. He was active in the Fiji Island trade, and in the course of one voyage he returned the homesick descendants of the Bounty mutineers to Pitcairn Island from Tahiti. A local committee is now planning to honor Driver by erecting a flagpole in his memory, and Congress has recently passed a law allowing the American flag to fly day and night above his burying place in Nashville, Tennessee. Narrow Hardy Street has lost fewer of its old houses than many . Y streets in Salem, and., is architecturally and historically one of the more important streets in this area. HARDY STREET - EAST SIDE There is no #1 Hardy Street. #3 Hardy Street RATING: THREE, PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof house has a three-bay facade andfaces the street. It is a typical small house of Salem' s past, but the addition of siding and a modern canopy over the front entrance plus replaced window sash have changed its appearance considerably. Beyond the main house there is a small addition at one side of the buikhng. #5 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This small two-story plus pitch roofswooden house also faces the street and has a central entrance in an enclosed pilastered porch. The house has a fat9square chimney and a rear lean-to additon, which makes the house the so-called salt box type. Except for the addition of shingles over the clapboards, the house seems to have been altered very little. #7 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This Federal style wooden house probably looks just as it did when it was ql. HARDY STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) built except for a two-story flat roofed addition on the back. The house has two stories plus a pitch roof and overlooks the street. The five-bay facade has a typical simple Federal period doorway trimmed with fluted pilasters and modillions; the two granite front door steps remain and are matched by a handsome granite foundation. The windows on the front of the house have been modernized. G(0»i inl I?ell, 'c. 19(0 #7z Hardy Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: Wh. Squeezed in behind #7 Hardy Street there is a small two-story plus gambrel roof shingled house, which is simple in form and shape were it not for the later addition of several one-story excrescences. The original chimney has been replaced, and other original features are not now discernible from the street #9 Hardy Street was torn down by the city several years ago; it was an old house with some fine interior trim. #11 Hardy Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This large three-story plus hip roofs rectangular building is grander and bigger than the average house in this neighborhood. The main entrance is in the middle of the five-bay facade on the south side of the house and has a semi-eliptical fanlight over the door and rather unusual� severe,. three-quarter attached Tuscan columns on either side of it. An entrance on the street side of the house is Victorian in style now. The house still has its two square chimneys, but two-over-two windows have reph:=ed the original smaller panes . A three-story addition with piazzas has been added to the back of the house. The size and elegance of the house suggest that this may have been the house Mr. Putnam built for Captain Stone in 1807; it would be interesting to investigate the records and also see if it is similar architecturally to which other houses/Bentley suggests that Putnam built on Chestnut Street. #15 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. Like` many of the houses on Hardy Street, this is a two-story plus pitch 92• HARDY STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) roof building with a five-bay facade overlooking the street. The central entrance has a boldly molded pediment overhead and simple pilasters on either side. The house has two square chimneys and a tidy picket fence in front of it. Its foundation is low, and the second floor windows are directly under the eaves, as they often were in those days . The windows have, however, been changed to two-over-two sash, and a two-story piazza has been added to the back of the house. A seckel pear tree grows in the yard of this house; once upon a time they seem to have grown in most of the small yards in the city, but they are rapidly disappearing. #17 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This three-story plus a very shallow pitch roof, wooden house is another in an almost unbroken line of buildings with five-bay facades and central doorways that overlook this old street. The house with its three stories is larger than some of its neighbors, which adds a 9 5 little variety to the row. The main entrance has simple pilasters on either side of it and a low granite step. At the rear of the house there is a lean-to addition, which projects beyond either side of the house;,making a pair of matching Beverly jogs, one at either end of the house. In the yard behind the house there is a wooden, arched trellis. The house rests on a low granite foundation and still has its large square chimney. The unusual shallow pitch of the roof suggests that the roof may have been raised at some time. DERBY STREET CROSSES. Across Derby Street the building on the corner of Hardy Street, which was the site of Captain Joseph White ' s house, and the next three houses on Hardy Street have been demolishedfand the land is now owned by the House of Seven Gables. #25 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The next big house on the east side of Hardy Street is the Phippen 93. HARDY STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) House, built by Joshua Phippen, a cooper, in 1782-84. It is a large three-story plus hip roof. rectangular house. Some of its features, which are typical of its style and period, are the two large square chimneys, the molded window sills and the enclosed pedimented entrance porches in the yard on eitl-e r side of the house. This building is the property of the Gables and is not open to the public. Bentley noted in 1803 that the "holder of the shorefront on Hardy Street is now Joshua Phippen, " and the house is shown as being Phippen property in the 1874 Atlas. #27 Hardy Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This famous house, Hawthorne ' s Birthplace, was removed to this location a few years ago from its original site on the east side of Union Street and has since been restored. The date of the house is uncertain, but its owners, the House of Seven Gables Settlement Association, guess it was built about 1750 . The house is a simple two-story plus a gambrel roof building, two rooms wide, which formerly faced Union Street, but now faces the water. The central entrance has simple pilastered trim and the house has a large.: square central chimney. A lovely.. large elm tree stands in the yard in front of the house. #29 Hardy Street burned down several years ago. Prior to that it was used as a guest house for tourists visiting the House of Seven Gables . HARDY STREET - WEST SIDE. #4 Hardy Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large wooden multiple family dwelling is long and narrow. It has three stories plus a flat roof with overhanging eaves and simple brackets and is a typical example of its type and period. Projecting from the long south side of the building are several three-sided bows. It is entirely possible that part of this structure is actually older than it appears . 94• HARDY STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) #6 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story plus pitch roof wooden house is gable end to the street. It is hard to date because the chimneys are now gone and the trim around the entrance is hidden by a stomp ,orch, but it seems to fall into the Greek Revival category. The narrow yard in front of the house has lilacs and fruit trees growing in it. #8 Hardy Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD; FOURTH QUARTER This five-bay rectangular, wooden (shingles) building has three stories plus a nearly flat sloping roof and three-story piazzas attached to the rear. It is obviously what is known as a",triple- decker. " This building is on the site of the old Diman house, the home during the 1700 ' s of the pastor of the East Church. #10 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus gambrel roof house covered with siding„is set with its narrow end on the street. The entrance was originally in the middle of the south side of the house, but has now been covered over in favor of the back door. The two tall slender chimneys on the back of the house identify it as having been built duping the Federal period. #12 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This house is clearly of the Greek Revival period, despite the fact that it is now covered with brown shingles. It has two stories plus a pitch roof and is gable end to the street. The five-bay southern facade has a recessed central entrance with rectangular toplight and full-length sidelights, typical Greek Revival features; the house also has a wide entablature under the eaves, which is now partially hidden by shingles. The large side yard is enclosed by a wooden fence. There is a narrow ell behind the house. #14 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL (?) This simple two-story plus pitch roof house is gable end to the street 95• HARDY STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) and more or less hidden by a two-car cinder block garage right in from of its side entrance yard. The house probably dates from the Federal or Greek Revival period, but siding, replaced window sills and a high brick foundation make the date uncertain. The 1837 Directory lists Captain Driver at #14 Hardy Street, but further research will be necessary to ascertain whether this was actually the same house. #16 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : THIRD QUARTER. This unusual building does not fall into a general pattern or style. It is a small one-story plus Mansard roof� rectangular, wooden building on a low foundation. The roof does not seem to go with the very small building in terms of style, but the whole effect is pleasing. Perhaps originally this was a chaise house or similar outbuilding, which was enlarged by adding the Mansard roof and converted into a dwelling. It seems to appear in the 1874 Atlas of Salem. DERBY STREET CROSSES #18 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER This two-story plus pitch roof wooden house faces the street and has a central front door under a heavy canopy or roof supported by heavy consoles typical of the Italianate style. Under the eaves there are very simple paired Italianate brackets. The low foundation of the house, and its form, size and shape indicate that it may actually be older than the period given above. #20 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This small two-story plus pitch roof house also faces the street. It is what is called a half-house, i.e. , its entrance is at one end of the facade instead of being in the center of a longer, balanced building. The trim around the entrance is Victorian or Italianate in period and is a later modification. The house has new aluminum clapboards, but it still has a large central chimney and old granite doorstep. 96. HARDY STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) #22 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Gable end to the street, this two-story plus gambrel roof wooden house is clearly of the Federal period. Typical Federal features are the needed pilasters on either side of the entrance in the south yard and the semicircular fanlight above it; these details are now partially hidden by an ornate Italianate roof and consoles. Other Federal features are the granite foundation, small windows and molding under the eaves. Beyond the house in the yard a newer two-story flat roofed addition projects beyond the house making it L shaped. #24 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is a large three-story plus hip roof wooden house similar in size and form to the Phippen House across the street. The five-bay facade faces the harbor and has a central entrance in an enclosed pedi- mented and pilastered entrance porch. A picket fence separates the property from the sidawalk. In 1874 this house belonged to the Allen family; perhaps this is where the Allen pear tree grew. #242 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is a very simple house, in the Italianate style, It is set far back in the spacious yard in front of #24 and is a two-story plus pitch roof wooden house with the entrance in the gable or street end; the lean-to addition at one side plus a dormer appear to be later changes. It is said that the house was moved here. #26 Hardy Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : GREEK REVIVAL. This spacious two-story plus pitch roof house has what is probably one of the best locations in Salem beside the harbor on a large lot of land. It is set far back from the street which it faces and has a balanced five-bay facade with a simple balustraded entrance portico. The entablature under the eaves is a Greek Revival characteristic. Beside the house there is a small garage. There was no house on this location in the 1874 Atlas . 970 T HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD Prior to the early 1900 ' s Hawthorne Boulevard was two streets, were Walnut on the East, and Elm Street on the West. There houses in the central area where now there is a grassy plot with statues. According to Old Naumkeaq, there was a cove on the South River at the foot of this street and a shipyard on the east side of Elm Street in the 17th century. In 1773 the east side was called Brown' s lane, and the west, Ward' s lane; by 1796 they were called Walnut Street and Elm Street, respectively, although Elm Street was frequently called Lodder' s Lane, or Plank Alley. The statue of the Reverend Theobald Mathew, who visited Salem in 1849, was erected in 1887 on Central Street over a spring and moved to this location in 1916. The statue of Nathaniel Hawthorne was erected in 1925 with funds ra.ised, by the Nathaniel Hawthorne Memorial Association. The pedestal of the statue was made of Rockport granite. The sculptor was Bela Lyon-Pratt. 98. _ HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD, WEST SIDE (even numbers--Prom Essex through #12-14) #2 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: TWO . PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. Is This three-story, clapboard house with hip roof/directly on the streetand has a recessed front entrance of a later style than the house. An addition to this house fronts on Essex Street and may cover the original entrance. #6 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This large two-story wooden house ]hag a Mansard roof trimmed with and`' pedimented dormer windows and scalloped slates /also has the brackets under the eavesof the Italianate style. The main entrance is recessed and has a bay window above. #8 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL This plus three-story/ hip roof, clapboard ,house with a Beverly jog is directly the on the street, with/main entrance in the yard; fluted pilasters and sidelights frame this entrance. A smaller entry on the street has been remodeled., or added, and has Victorian trim. #10 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. hidden This wooden house/in the yard behind #8 is two stories high with a pitch roof, and it has a pitch roofed ell. The gable ends are toward the street. and .` decorated by fancy shingles . #10-12 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL The Woman ' s Friend Society is housed in this three-story oblong brick building with hip roof and four slender tall chimneys; it is placed with a fanlighted entrance off the street on either side. It has a wooden cornice and handsome double-keyed, splayed lintels over the windows. According to Fiske Kimball, this building was begun in 1809 as a double house by Joseph Fenno, and he attributes some interior carving to Samuel McIntire. Kimball also believes that the mantel in the north parlor came from #2 Chestnut Street. Captain John Bertram gave the north part of this building to the Woman ' s Friend Society in 1879; ten years later it purchased the remainder. 99• HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD, EAST SIDE (odd numbers) --East from Essex to Derby streets #1 Hawthorne Boulevard (See #109 Essex Street) #3 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: - :,TREE. )PERIOD : CIRCA 1900. This two-story wooden building with a flat roof is of relatively recent vintage. It was built for commercial use around 1900. #5 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: rRH.M PERIOD: FOJRTH QJARTE'R. This three-story wooden building with a flat roof has front bay windows extending up the full three stories. The entrance has Italianate trim. . #11 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: THP,EE. PERIOD: 1850 ' s This is a two-story,wooden, pitch-roof house with the gable end to the street and an entrance in the side yard. Rather simple brackets support the cornice and roof over the doorway. 13 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING.•.NONE PERIOD: CONTEMPORARY. St. Mary' s School is a three-story brick building with cement trim and two projecting side ells which relieve the solid facade. This is a fairly new building. #15 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: ONE: PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER (Romanesque) The Church of the Immaculate Conception was built about 1857 to replace St. Mary' s Church which was built about 1820 on land presented for that purpose by Simon Forrester, one of Salem' s most successful merchants. This church was remodeled in 1880, at which time the tower was added. The building is of brickin the Romanesque style with sandstone trim over the three arched windows and the portals. The gable end is also relieved by the use of a brick cornice. There is an attached tower on the south corner. 100. HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD EAST SIDE (odd numbers) continued #23 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. St. Mary' s Convent is in a large but simple and dignified two-story brick building with a mansard roof (three dormer windows and fancy slate work) . It has an imposing portico typical of this period. It has been said that it is actually wooden faced with brick. The group of four wooden buildings after St. Mary' s Convent-- numbers 27-33 Hawthorne Boulevard--all have rather high foundations and do not correspond with buildings on the 1897 Atlas. It is said that they were moved to their present locations when Hawthorne Boulevard was created. and that some of them were formerly on the strip which now divides Hawthorne Boulevard. #27 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This appears to be three small attached pitched roof buildings. They are all of wood and�two stories high. The . one in the rear has a doorway of the Federal style with unusually narrow, decorated side- lights. There is a thriving boxwood near this doorway. #29 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This large two-story, wooden, gambrel roof building is in the yard of #27 . It has a good cornice and entrance of the Greek Revival period centered between two windows on either side. #31 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This small two-storyyclapboard building has a pitch roof that might have been built any time from 1700 to 1850; it is in the yard behind #33 . Its high foundation implies that it is not in its original location. eKter;cr The lack of any,, architectural detail makes it difficult to date the house?,- 101. HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD EAST SIDE odd numbers continued #33 Hawthorne Boulevard. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This i9 rl Oblong, three-story, gable-end-to-the-street house: its facade . is hidden under two porches, one On the first floor and one on the second. Under this there is a Federal style. fanlighted doorway framed by reeded pilasters. The house has a pitch roof. 102. HERBERT STREET - From Essex to Derby Street Herbert Street was laid out as a cart way over land of Joseph Hardy in 1661, according to Perley. By 1765, it was referred to as Derby ' s Lane, although Bentley often called it the lane east of Long Wharf Lane. The list of street names Bentley noted in 1796, describes it as Herbert Street; it was undoubtedly named for the Herbert family who dwelt here. Thomas Kenelly lived on Herbert Street and Bentley wrote in January 1832, "The Catholics in Salem keep a place of Sunday prayers in Herbert Street. . . Dr. Matignon with them this day. " He was referring to Kenelly' s house. (See Union Street.) It would be interesting to identify the location of this house and see if it is still standing. HERBERT STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers, #' s 5-27) #5 Herbert Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This simple two-story, plus gambrel roof, wooden house is set end to the street. The facade in the yard has a central door (added Victorian trim) and two evenly-spaced windows on either side. #7 Herbert Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Number 7 Herbert Street .is a small one-and-a-half story, pitch roof, wooden house with its gable end to the street. The doorway which has had Victorian trim added is in the yard on the north side of the house. Beyond the entrance there is a later two-story, flat-roof attached ell. #9 Herbert Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: TRIPLE DECKER. Placed well back from the street between #7 and #11 Herbert Street there is a typical, gray, three-story tenement of the type commonly built around 1900. #11 Herbert Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This long, two-story plus pitch roof house is set at right angles to the street with an entrance in the south yard. The clapboarded house is quite simple in style with simple pilasters and a vined trellis on either 1030 HERBERT STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers) continued side of the entrance. The house does not seem to have been altered in its exterior characteristics since it was built, and it looks well maintained. Beyond #11 Herbert Street there is a large vacant area where until recently the old Seaman' s Bethel stood where Reverend Michael Carleton ministered. Carleton is sometimes referred to as "minister at large, " and is said to have been one of the originators of what. was later to become the Children ' s Friend Society. Later it served as a Calvary Baptist Church until it was bought by the French Catho- lics in 1873 . Next, south of the Seaman ' s Bethel, there was a school, which was at one time called the Lynde Primary School. This, too, has recently been demolished. #23 Herbert Street RATING: THREE, PERIOD: TRIPLE DECKER. This three-story, wooden tenement with brackets, typical dentil cor- nice and three-story piazzas was built after 1897, according to the Atlas for that year. #25 Herbert Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This house is a small, one-and-a-half story pitch roof, wooden building with its gable end to the street. It has paired brackets under the eaves and an enormous bay window on the front of the house. It+ does not appear on the 1874 Atlas, but it is in the 1897 Atlas . #27 Herbert Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This is one of the important Salem houses, both architecturally and historically. Phillips in Salem in the 17th Century wrote that it was built by Timothy Lindall. Other authorities believe it was pro- bably built by Richard Derby in the first half of the here 18th century, and that he lived all his life and here his famous sons were born. Richard himself be3an the famous mercantile busi- 10)}. HERBERT STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd nu tubers) continued ness, which his sons later continued and expanded. Elias Hasket Derby became Salem' s outstanding merchant prince and pioneer across the seas . Son Richard was a patriot and member of the Provincial Congress, and Captain John was part owner of the ship Columbia which discovered and named the Columbia River. Captain John also commanded the ship which first took word to England of the Battle of Concord and Lexington, thus giving the Americans a psychological advantage. The house is a two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden building which faces on Herbert Street. The central enclosed entrance side porch has two sets of fluted pilasters on either/of the entrance and a molded pediment above. The small oval windows on either side of the porch are handsomely framed. North of the house there is a so-called 'Beverly jog. " Old pictukes show the house before the street level towards Derby Street was changed. In the yard, instead of the summerhouse where Hawthorne supposedly -wrote, there is now a small : one-story, pitch roof wooden barn. HERBERT STREET - WEST SIDE - Even numbers (# ' s 4-26) #4 Herbert Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden house is end to the street and one room wide. The brick foundation suggests possible reloca- tion to this site, although there is a building shown here on the 1851 Map. A three-story, wooden, later addition with piazzas, attached to the rear of the building, is out of scale with the ori- ginal house. #6 Herbert Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is an excellent example of the simple Greek Revival two-,story, wooden, gable-end-to-the-street house in Salem, and fortunately it able end has not been remodeled. The entrance at one side of the g io5. HERBERT STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) continued and is is up several stairs recessed and trimmed with simple pilasters . The wide entablature below the eaves, which continues across the base of the gable, is also typical of the Greek Revival period. #8 Herbert Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This L-shaped, narrow,fbrick (Flemish bond) , three-story plus hip roof building was probably built between 1800-1810. It has the wide plank window frames and Flemish bond brickwork of that period. The only window lintels are on the narrow or street end of the building; they appear to be slightly later than the rest of the house in style (reeded, rectangular) , and may have been inserted some twenty years later. The original front entrance has been removed, but the brickwork shows where there once was a fanlight. Bentley wrote on August 9, 1809, that Goodhue was building a brick house on Herbert Street. He was probably refering to this, the only one on the street. #81-2 Herbert Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This very simple, two-story pitch roof house is gable end to the street just beyond #8 Herbert Street. It occupies what shows on earlier maps as the location of an outbuilding or barn of #8, and in fact it may have been converted into a residence years ago. There are only two small windows on the street end and a plain recessed entrance. #10 Herbert Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is a large, two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house. The gable end is on the street. It is characterized by overhanging eaves and Victorian trim around the .entrance. #12 Herbert Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The external appearance of this building shows no signs of its age and importance as the house in Salem with which Hawthorne was most intimately connected. Itis a three-story, plus pitch roof, end-to- io6. HERBERT STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) the-street wooden house to which someone later added piazzas typical of the triple-decker tenement; they hide the entrance in the south side yard. Old photos at the Essex Institute reveal that the house was originally closer to the ground; it was probably raised when the "modernization" took place. As late as 1851, this house is shown on the Atlas as belonging to J. Manning ' s estate. It is said to have been built circa 1790 by Hawthorne ' s maternal grandfather, Richard Manning. The garden backed up to the Hawthorne ' s house on Union Street. After Hawthorne ' s father ' s death, his family moved in with his Manning relations and lived there ten years or so. Supposedly, . Hawthorne lived in the third floor southwest chamber. Later he wrote: "In this dismal chamber fame was won. . . .Should I have a biographer he ought to make great mention of this chamber in my memoirs, because so much of my lonely youth was wasted here. " #14 Herbert Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: EARLY 1900 ' s Sandwiched in between #12 and #16 Herbert Street is this two-story, flat-roofed, wooden (siding) , end-to-the-street, tenement with the customary brackets, simple dentil and two-story piazzas . #16 Herbert Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This small one-and-a-half story, pitch roof, wooden (siding) building is gable-end to the street. It seems to combine several different buildings or ells extending back from the street and a resident of the house believes that part of it is the Derby countin + ouselwhich was moved to Herbert Street some years ago from the wharf and converted into a dwelling. If this is so, it is naturally of greater interest than its present exterior appearance indicates . Beyond #16 Herbert Street is the lot left vacant after the Polish School was recently demolished. 107. HERBERT STREET - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) continued #22 Herbert Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This tiny, one-story plus gambrel roof, wooden (siding) house is A both the 1874 and 1851 Atlases. It is gable end to the street, and has an entrance on the south side in an added ell. There is little trim on the exterior, and the addition of the ell detracts from the original design. #24-26 Herbert Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Except for the addition of a simple, two-story piazza attached to the facade, this house looks very much as it must have when first built. It is a two-story, plus pitch roof building facing Herbert Street; the narrow wooden clapboards still keep out the elements . originally it had a plain central front entrance with a window on either side. 108. HODGES COURT - From Essex to Derby Street. Phillips ' conjectural map of Salem in 1780 shows a lane running from Essex Street about a third of the present length of Hodges Court. Perley wrote that it was. laid out ten-feet wide by Mrs. Mary Searle in 1669 and was called the lane to Francis Skerry' s in 1685 . Various members of the Hodges ' family seem to have lived at the house at the head of the lane, #95 Essex Street, for many years, and the land on the east side of the street was presumably the garden beyond the house. Bentley makes few references to the street. The 1897 Atlas shows the street running all the way to Derby Street. Most of the existing houses appear to have been built shortly before then. HODGES COURT - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers # ' s 5, 7 and 9.) The three houses on the east side of Hodges Court are all similar in style and size and were probably all built about the same time, i.e.1 during the last quarter of the 19th century. #5 Hodges Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof clapboard house faces Hodges Court. It has Victorian trim around the main entrance on the street and a two- story bay window at one side of the door, so that the facade is not symmetrical. #7 Hodges Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. The second house on Hodges Court, like #5, is a two-story plus pitch roof, clapboard house directly on the street. The facade has five bays with a center doorway with typical Victorian trim. #9 Hodges Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story, pitch roof wooden house has its gable end on the street. Lattices have probably been .added to the typical Victorian doorway in the yard south of the house. HODGES COURT - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) #2 Hodges Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This house is similar to most of the others on Hodges Court. It is a two-story plus pitch roof, wooden building with its gable end to the street. The entrance in the yard has Victorian brackets supporting a 109• HODGES COURT - WEST SIDE (Even numbers) continued small protecting roof, and there is a two-story bay window on the gable end which is also typical of the end of the 19th Century. #4 Hodges Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. Unlike the other houses on Hodges Court, this is quite small, consist- ing of only one. story plus a pitch roof. There is a one-story bay window on the gable end which projects into this narrow lane. The simple entrance in the yard is reached through a piazza. VACANT LOT. Formerly a Seaman ' s Bethel and school occupied this now vacant land. See Herbert Street. #10 HODGES Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER This is a modern, two-story, flat roofed wooden house with the two- story covered piazzas and bay window typical of this period and type of dwelling. #12 Hodges Court RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story, pitch roof, double house faces the Court and has adjacent recessed entrances in the middle of the eight bay facade. It was probably built about the same time as the other houses on the street. 110. HOWARD STREET Howard Street was laid out in 1801 according to Perley. Bentley wrote on March 16, 1801, "The Town of Salem have actually purchased part of the Locust Field for a Burying Ground (The Howard Street Cemetery.) This object is at length obtained. The entrance is near the Rope Walk on Brown Street. The Burying Ground will lay upon North River. The extent is between one and two acres including the passage. " This "passage" undoubtedly refers to Howard Street. The ropewalk belonged to Captain Jonathan Haraden, a hero of the Revo- lution. (See Brown Street. ) It is thought that the street was named for John Howard, a corporal in General Glover' s Marblehead regiment in 1775, who later sailed under Samuel Tucker on the schooner Hancock. In 1779, Howard settled in Salem and went into partnership with Samuel Buffum as sailmakers on Gray ' s Wharf. Howard continued in this business until he retired in 1839; he was the first president of the Salem Charitable Mechanic Association and lived at 33 Brown Street. It is worth mentioning the Salem tradition that it was on or near what is today Howard Street that Giles Corey was pressed to death in 1692. Corey, when he was to be tried for witchcraft, stood mute and refused to plead. The punishment for this was "peine forte et dure" according to the English law. Corey was indeed pressed to death, and in this way was able to convey his property to his heirs instead of having it confiscated by the government which would have occurred had he stood trial and been found guilty of being a witch or wizard. The street evidently grew slowly and was not built up until the 1830 ' s when almost all of the houses appear to have been built in the then prevailing Greek Revival style. HOWARD STREET - WEST SIDE (Odd numbers) #1-3 Howard Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. 111. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house is gable end to the street. The two-story bay window which balances the simple double entrance on the gable end and the jig saw cut strips. of trim and fancy shingles are characteristic of a style popular at the end of the 19th century. #5 Howard Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house is very similar to #1-3, however, it is a single dwelling and has more of the fancy shingle trim. #7 Howard Street The Convent of St. John the Baptist is a new two-story brick building set back from the street. Beyond it is the new two-story brick St. John the Baptist School. These two buildings are on the site of the old Howard Street Church, which was also known as the Branch Meeting House, because it was formed by a dissident branch of the Tabernacle Church. The church was built in 1804-05 and designed by McIntire. Bentley noted, "The New Meeting House labourers in Brown Street have a hymn every morning. " In this church on August 23, 1813, Judge Story delivered the Lieutenant eulogy for Captain Lawrence and / Ludlow who had died of wounds received during the battle of the Chesapeake and Shannon, and whose bodies had been brought back to Salem from Halifax on a ship manned entirely by Salem sea captains and merchants . The highly emotional politics of the day entered into the choice of the church, and it was selected after two other Salem churches had refused to allow the services to be held there. By 18161Bentley says.,the church was unemployed. The 1850 Will of Peter Webster, merchant, says he leased the cellar under the church for storing spices, sugar, salt, molasses, etc. . Finally in 1867, it was sold at auction to the First Methodist Society of Beverly, moved across the river minus its tower, and then rebuilt. 112. HOWARD STREET - WEST SIDE (Odd numbers) #29 Howard Street The Howard Street Burying Ground was opened in 1801. In 1795, Bentley had written thahe town was looking for a new Burying Ground, and he had suggested Windmill Point at the foot of Northey Street. A glance at the family names on the slate stones in this old cemetery, which was once bounded in part by the North River, reveals that many of them were neighbors and parishioners of Bentley ' s . There are Mannings, Graftons, Phippens, Hodges, Ropes, and Archers . Oo]anl. Samuel Carlton who "raised a company and marched to Ticonderoga" during the Revolution� is buried here, as is Captain William Browne, commander of the Crowninshield's ship Brutus, which was wrecked in 1802 when he perished. Bentley himself was also here until his remains were moved to the new and stylish Harmony Grove. One can' t help but wonder what Bentley' s comment on this , removal would have been. here The bodies of Lawrence and Ludlow (see above) were placed/tempo- rarily in the Crowninshield tomb prior to their removal to the Trinity Churchyard in New York City. HOWARD STREET - EAST SIDE (Even numbers) #2-4 Howard Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This building is very similar in style to the two houses across the street. It is a large, two-story plus pitch roof, wooden, double house and has the spindles, fancy shingles and gables popular during the end of the nineteenth century. #8 Howard Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house is gable end to the street, and the entrance portico in the side yard has Doric columns which are the hallmark of the Greek Revival style. The molded wooden window lintels are five-sided, and there is a wide entabla- 113. HOWARD STREET - EAST SIDE (Even numbers) continued ture under the eaves; these are both Greek Revival features . #10 Howard Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large, three-story plus pitch roof, wooden house has its gable end to the street, and a recessed entrance on the street. Except for the wooden belts at the second and third floor levels, the house is very simple in style. #12 Howard Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This small, two-story plus pitch roof, clapboard house facing Howard Street has a recessed front entrance trimmed with the flat pilasters popular for simple houses of the Greek Revival period. #' s 16, 18, 22, 26 and 28 Howard Street (See below for #24. ) RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Five of the next six houses are all very similar in style, shape and detail. They probably date from the 1830 ' s and are in the style of the Greek Revival. Each of the two-story plus pitch roof, wooden houses is gable end to the street, has the characteristic wide entablature under the eaves and the recessed front entrance trimmed with simple pilasters. They all have or had narrow pilaster strips at the front corners . This group of houses reminds one of the famous Greek Revival "Merchant ' s Row" in Chelsea. #24 Howard Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: 1850 ' s This house, which was probably built in the early 1850 ' s,has some Greek Revival details as well as the paired bracket trim which became popular in the early 1850 ' s . It is gable end to the street and has a central entrance in the side yard. #30 Howard Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, gable -end-to-the-street, wooden house has a central entrance in the side yard which is now trimmed with what looks like a modern "colonial" broken pediment and urn over the door. Except for this, the house is very simple in style. ii4. HOWARD STREET - EAST SIDE (Even numbers) continued #' s 34, 38 and 40 Howard Street (There is no #36. ) RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. These. three houses are all very similar in size and style. They have one story plus a pitch roof, with the gable end to the street. Simple Greek Revival pilasters frame the doorways which are in the side yards. Each of the houses has an ell at right angles to the main portion of the house.No.38 has had Victorian brackets added to the Greek Revival trim around the door. The land on which these houses stand begins to slope down to what was once the North River, fact and this/is reflected in the graduated foundations of the houses . #42 Howard Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. Like most of the other houses on Howard Street, this two-story plus pitch roof wooden house is gable end to the street; its entrance is in the narrow side yard. The house is simpler in style than many of the Greek Revival buildings on the street. 115. KIMBALL COURT No information about the date when Kimball Court was opened has '-een discovered, but it does not appear on the 1820 Map of Salem. It seems likely that it was laid out during the latter '' half of the 19th century when the house in which Bowditch was born waslmoved from its location at #2 Brown Street back to the end of Kimball Court. #2 Kimball Court RATING: ONE. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The large wooden, two-story plus gambrel roof house at the end of Kimball Court is one of the important Salem Houses . Here was born Nathaniel Bowditch Although on March 26, 1773. Bowditch had little formal schooling, he is still known far and wide as the author of the "Practical Navigator" He was apprenticed to a ship chandler at the age of ten, then spent nine years at sea on Salem ships and began his successful career ashore when he was elected president of the Essex Fire and Marine Insurance Company. Finally in 1823, he moved from Salem to Boston where he died in 1838. The interested reader can find much material about this famous son of Salem. The five-bay facade, gambrel-roof, size and shape of this house definitely place it in the days preceding the Revolution. Other details such as the front entrance, trim around the dormer windows and two-story tall columns supporting a roof at the east side of the building were probably added in the 1830 ' s during the Greek Revival. The high brick foundation is accounted for by the fact that the house was moved. 116. KOSCIUSKO STREET - From Derby Street to the harbor. The 1851 Map of Salem shows an unnamed street where Kosciusko Street now is on what was then called Tucker' s Wharf. The same wharf appears on the 1820 Map of . Salem. Earlier this was apparently the wharf of Benjamin Hawkes and John Babbidge, shipbuilders. Bentley noted on August 6, 1790, that lightning "struck. . . a Work Ship on Palfrey ' s land belonging to Mr. Babbidge & Co. " and on November 6, 1812, he wrote that "A Launch has been built in this town by Hawkes & Babbidge for the Chesapeeke. . . .Work ship Palfrey ' s, below Derby Street, West side of Daniels Street. " Bentley refers to this as Palfrey's wharf in 1789. How much older it is than that is not known. In 1883, the street was named Grant Street according to records. at City Hall; however, in 1918, it was renamed Kosciusko Street. This was undoubtedly in honor of the Polish patriot who, like Lafayette, helped the American colonists in their War of Independence. The street was widened on the west side before 1897 to include what were once small yards in front of the houses. KOSCIUSKO STREET, EAST SIDE (Odd numbers -- #' s 9-21, What was formerly #3 Kosciusko Street is now a vacant lot. #9 Kosciusko Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-bay, two-story, wooden, gambrel roof house, unlike most of the gambrels in this area, faces the street. It has a high brick foundation which suggests that it was moved to this location. (Cousins and Riley state that a portion of the Babbidge House on Essex Street was moved to Grant Street, and it is probable that other buildings were also moved here.. ) The house has a central entrance up a short flight of stairs; there are narrow, full length sidelights on either side of the door, and two small chimneys in the front slop of the roof. A resident has been told that the house is 200 years old and was in fact moved here. 117. KOSCIUSKO STREET, EAST SIDE (Odd numbers) continued #11 Kosciusko Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This two-story, pitch roof, clapboard house is gable end to the street and rests on a high brick foundation. The entrance in the yard has a Federal period door, but the chimney is modern. It is a simple type of house that continued to be built over a long period of years. A flat- roofed ell connects this dwelling to a more or less separate building in the yard, which appears to be of relatively recent vintage and has no architectural details worthy of note. #15-17 Kosciusko Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: CIRCA 1900. This is a typical three-story, flat-roofed tenement of the turn of the century. It has a recessed entry on the street and three levels of covered piazzas in the rear. The house is covered with siding. #19 Kosciusko Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. The basic simplicity of the exterior of this house, plus the addition of a porch on the gabIDe, or street, end and siding make it difficult to date. It is a one-and-half story wooden building with a pitch roof and is set back from the street. The chimney is modern. #21 Kosciusko Street is a five-car, one-story garage facing the street. Around the corner, unnumbered, there is a two-car, one-story garage. 118. KOSCIUSKO STREET, WEST SIDE (Even numbers, -- # ' s 6-22) #6 Kosciusko Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: 1850 ' s. This small, two-story, pitch roof house with its gable end on the street has its entrance' in a north ell through a two-story small roofed piazza. The street, or gable, end of the house has irregular windows, some of which are very small; whether this is the result of remodelling or was original is not known. #8 Kosciusko Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This is another example of the two-story, wooden, end-to-the-street, pitch roof house with little exterior detail that is difficult to date. It has a brick foundation and lean-to ell in the rear. The simple entrance in the yard has an enclosed second-story porch above it that was probably a later addition. #12 Kosciusko Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: 1900 ' s . This two-story, wooden building is very similar to #14. They both have flat roofs and a bracketed cornice trimmed with dentils. #14 Kosciusko Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: 1900 ' s. This is an L-shaped three decker, flat roof, wooden tenement with a three -story piazza on the south side. It has a high brick foundation and brackets and a dentil cornice under the eaves. #16 Kosciusko Street. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This simple, small wooden house on a high brick foundation may have been moved to its present location. The location of the second-floor windows directly under the eaves usually indicates an earlier period than the high foundation suggests. The house has a pitch roof and faces the street. The recessed front entrance is in the center of the facade. #18-20 Kosciusko Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: 1850 ' s. This double, wooden house has two stories plus a pitch roof and faces the street. It has two simple doorways trimmed with Victorian consoles. 119. KOSCIUSKO STREET, WEST SIDE (Even numbers) continued #22 Kosciusko Street. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: COLONIAL REVIVAL. This small, one-story, wooden clubhouse has a flat roof and high founda- exterior tion. Its only architectural/ornamentatior6 are two archedskeystoned windows and a wide entablature and cornice9which is only on the street side. 120. MALL STREET Like most of the other streets north of the Common, Mall Street was laid out during the Federal Period around 1800. B. F. Browne wrote that it was opened shortly after 1798, and Perley said that it was open by 1810 . City Hall records show that it was widened in 1829, even though it is still a narrow street, and conveys the atmosphere of New England in the early 1800 ' s . Nathaniel Hawthorne lived at 14 Mall Street during one of the most important periods of his life. (See #14 Mall Street.) Frequently his gaze must have wandered out of the windows of his home to the houses we still see in the neighborhood, and often he must have walked along the sidewalks now used by residents of Mall Street. MALL STREET - West Side (Odd numbers) #1 Mall Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Situated behind a high fence and with its narrow end on the street, little of this two-story plus pitch roof, clapboard house can be seen from the sidewalk. In the side yard, the house hasa handsome entrance trimmed with a semi=circular fanlight within a molded pediment, which v was a very popular Federal Pemd treatment. Beyond the house in the yo rd and attached to it, there is a larger, two-story plus pitch roof addition of undetermined age, which would overshadow the main house were it not so far back from the street. North of #1 Mall Street there is a large hot-topped parking space, and beyond that what may once have been an old hip roofed chaise house, which is covered with brown shingles, green and gray trim, tan siding and stucco. #5 Mall Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a fine house of the Greek Revival style with its gable end to the street and with a matched-board pediment accented by the wide entablature below it. The building is on a high granite foundation, 121. MALL STREET - West Side (Odd numbers) continued hence the recessed front entrance is up three granite steps. The molded pilasters and guttae, which are part of the entrance trim, are evidence that this house was built with great care for detail. #7 Mall Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. (?) This small, two-story plus pitch roof and lean-to, wooden house is shaded by a handsome cut-leaf maple tree. No modifications appear to have marred the original style of the house which has a three-bay facade directly on the street which includes an entrance at one end. #9 Mall Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: UNDETERMINED. Perhaps this two-story plus pitch roof, gable end to the street house was originally built in the Greek Revival period, but, if so, siding, a one-storyba window and flat-roofed ell to one side have ver Y Y much altered the original appearance of the house. There is no #11 Mall Street. #13 Mall Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house is gable end to the street and has a typical Greek Revival recessed and pilastered entrance and five-sided window lintels. A one-story bay window trimmed with brackets has been added to one side of the house. #15 Mall Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The shape and size of this small, gable end to the street house suggest on that it dates from the Federal period. The very simple entrance is/the gable end, and the windows there have the five-sided lintels which were period. popular during the Greek Revival/ Two large, modern dormers have been : broken out through the roof, and wide siding covers the building. #17 Mall Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small, two-story plus pitch-roof house has its entrance in a narrow side yard in the gable end of the house. On either side of the door there are narrow, delicate, slightly bowed, reeded pilasters, which are Federal in style; above it there is a modern aluminum canopy. The clapboards have been covered with aluminum. 122. MALL STREET - West Side (Odd numbers) continued #21 Mall Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. The lack of symmetry, two three-window, two-story bays, and the Lnree large dormer windows suggest that this house was built in the Fourth Quarter of the 19th century. It has two stories plus a pitch roof and is covered with shingles . #23 Mall Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof house with its overhanging eaves, paired brackets, and Victorian entrance trim backs up to and is on the corner of Bridge Street. The entrance is in the side yard, looking up Mall Street. MALL STREET - East Side (Even numbers) #6 Mall Street is a modern, simple, one-story plus pitch roof, wooden Cape Cod cottage. #8 Mall Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, brick (Flemish bond) house facing Mall Street has several interesting features . The Flemish bond suggests that it was built before 1817; the front door under a semi- circular fanlight (the Victorian consoles are of later vintage) is up a flight of four steps, and the house may well have a basement :citchen rather than the usual service ell in the rear. The front chimney location is not generally found during the Federal period. There are no decorative lintels above the windows. The two-story addition off the back of the house appears to be of a later period. It seems likely that this and #10 Mall Street were built at the same time and have a related history. Browne wrote that Nathaniel Foster, a mason, built a brick house on Mall Street; perhaps this is it. According to the 1837 Salem Directory, Holten J. Breed lived here. During the War of 1812 he was commander of the Privateer Grand Turk. The cannon at Fisherman ' s Beach in Swampscott is marked with a plaque which says the gun was cast in England in 1798, captured by the Grand Turk in 1812 and finally bought in 1835 by Swampscott s 123. MALL STREET - East Side (Even numbers) continued fishermen to use as a fog signal. #10 Mall Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. #10 Mall Street is also brick (Flemish bond) with no window lintels like its neighbor #8 • Unlike #8, which has a simple wooden molding under the eaves, this has a brick dentil cornice. Either of these treatments is typical of the Federal style. This is a three-story plus hip roof, oblong house with its narrow end ofl the street and a six-bay facade in the yard. The central entrance is no longer Federal, but Victorian. There is a brick, three-story wing at the back of the house, in front of which there are now iron fire escapes. #102 Mall Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This small, square structure with a nearly-flat roof has little detail of a recognizable style. It has two-stories, is directly on the street and has a columned and pedimented entrance, the elements of which may be older than the flat roof of the house would suggest. #12 Mall Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The symmetry of this five-bay, two-story plus pitch roof house with its recessed, central entrance is very appealing. It has a Beverly jog on either end which is reached through a columned portico suggestive of the Greek Revival period. The window blinds and a boot- scraper on the doorstep add to the style of this clapboard house. #14 Mall Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof, oblong house is wooden except for the brick north wall and has its narrow end on the street. The central entrance in the side yard is typical of the Federal style with a recessed semi-eiiptical fanlight, sidelights, reeded pilasters and a modillioned cornice. The molded cornice under the eaves is also typical of the period. There are now a series of additions to the back of the house, and in the front yard there are lilacs, forsythia and other flowering shrubs . This house is important because it was here that Hawthorne 121}. MALL STREET - East Side (Even numbers) continued lived from 1847 until 1850, while he was Surveyor of the Port at the Custom House, and after he was fired while he wrote The Scarlet Letter , his first successful novel. It is said that he worked in the thyd story front room overlooking the street. #18-20 Mall Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. The square central chimney and projecting molding above the third floor windows identify this house as dating from the Pre-Federal period. It is a three-story plus pitch roof house facing the street. Where once the original doorway was, there is now a two-story, enclosed entrance porch with a stained glass window at one side and a finely molded piece of wood over the door which may once have been an original window cap. Shinglbs cover what was probably a clapboarded exterior. The last house on Mall Street is numbered on Bridge Street, but it is worth pointing out that it occupies the site of the first church erected by the Catholics in Salem. Known as St. Mary ' s Catholic Church, it was built in 1821 on land given for that purpose in 1810 by Simon Forrester, who came to Salem from his native Ireland and became a very successful merchant. The Church continued to be used until 1857 when the Church of the Immaculate Conception was built; it was finally torn down in 1877. 125. MILK STREET There seems to be very little recorded material about Milk Street '' which is a short, narrow private way between Pickman andAndrew Street; it does appear on Saunders ' 1820 Map of Salem. The street probably existed, or may have been laid out when the brick house at the corner of Milk and Pickman Streets was built in 1806-07 . MILK STREET - WEST SIDE. #2 Milk Street (See #16 Pickman Street) In the yard beyond this house on Milk Street there is a small wooden barn with a pitch roof. It has a facade gable and small cupola which add to its interest. #6 Milk Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL. Set end to the street, this small wooden, gambrel-roof house faces south. It is only one room deep and has two stories plus an attic. On either side of the entrance there are delicate reeded pilasters. The 1874 Atlas shows no house at this location, hence this building must have been moved here, unless the Atlas was incorrect. There is a small addition beyond the house. #8 Milk Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small, simple two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house is also end to the street. It appears to be basically Federal in style, although a more modern entrance is now at the gable end of the house, and a porch has been added to the yard side of the house. Like #6 Milk Street, this house does not appear as such in the 1874 Atlas; a barn seems then to have occupied this location. Perhaps this house was moved here later, or the barn was converted into a house. MILK STREET - EAST SIDE #1 Milk Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is a two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house wkich is end to the street . It is simple in style, an example of the unpretentious house of the end of the 19th century. The two-story high bay window is trimmed with simple brackets similar to those 126 MILK STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers) cont 'd around the front entrance which is on the gable end of the house. #3 Milk Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER, (?) It is hard to date this two-story plus pitch roof, gable end to the street, wooden house. It has a rough stone foundation and an entabla- ture strip under the eaves which suggestsan earlier period than the Third Quarter of the 19th century. However, the first-floor bay window and the entrance with its square posts at either side date from a later period. Beyond #3 Milk Street (at what must once have been #5 Milk Street) there are now two garages; the first for two cars and the second for four cars . #7 Milk Street (See #19 Andrew Street. ) 127 OLIVER STREET Bentley wrote in 1800 that "Oliver has opened a Street from the Common to Needham' s Lane and to North River. Wright has finished a house in this street. " The field where the street was laid out had be- longed to the Lynde family for many years, and Bentley wrote that Chever, whose family owned property at the west corner of the Common and winter Street (See Washington Square North), "purchased on the whole west side of Winter street, of Lynde. . . . " Chever, in turn, sold some of his newly bought land to Edmund Needham whose family was for many years settled on .the northwest portion of Winter Street. Later Bentley said that the "old house of Chever (formerly near the corner of Washington Square North and Wintex1Street) was possessed by his son-in-law, Pratt, and sold to Wright, Baker, and removed on (to) East side of Oliver' s Street. " B. F. Browne says one of the first houses on the street belonged to a Mr. Skerry, who repaired the "old-fashioned flag-bottomed chairs" on the west side of the street, and the other belonged to John Scobie at #6 Oliver Street. OLIVER STREET - EAST SIDE (Even numbers) #2 Oliver Street (See #35 Washington Square North.) #4 Oliver Street. (See #26 Winter Street. ) #6 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL (?) This long two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house faces the street. It has a six-bay facade and off-center entrance, which is trimmed with simple pilasters; architect lly, it is unspoiled. Browne wrote that this is one of the oldest houses on the street and may have been Chever ' s which was moved here from the Common; if so, it may be older than the exterior suggests . It belonged to the Scobie family for some years and was the home of John James Scobie, a master mariner who sailed on the famous ship George to Calcutta and was a member of the Salem Light Infantry and the Salem Marine Society. Beyond #6 Oliver Street there is a small clapboard chaise house which 128 OLIVER STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) has a pitch roof. It appears to be part of the property at #24 Winter Street. #8 Oliver Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. The broad eaves jutting out from the roof of this two-story plus pitch roof house do not seem to belong on this otherwise simple, small house, . which is set close to the ground. Some of the windows on the house are small1and othersfa usual modern size. This house does not show on the 1874 Atlas; instead there is an outbuilding on the property of the house fronting on Winter Street. Perhaps the former building was converted into a house at some time. #10 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: PRE-FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof wooden house faces the street. It has a central chimney and rough stone foundation. The three-bay facade is not balanced, and the simple pilastered entrance is near the north end of the front of the building. The molded window sills and projecting cap molding above the second-story windows are generally considered pre- Federal in style. There is a modern aluminum canopy over the front door. #12 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This one-story plus pitch roof, wooden house has many details which give it style and interest. The five-bay facade on the street has a recessed central entrance above which there is a five-sided wooden lintel. The windows have similar lintels and appear to be French; the deception is caused by the fact that the usual six-over-six windows have closed shutters below them which are outlined in a white frame. Gothic overtones on this Greek k Revival house include a central gable and hood or drip moldings above the dormer windows . The house is architecturally intact. There is no #14 Oliver Street. #16 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. The three-bay facade of this small two-story plus pitch roof, clapboard house is directly on the street. The entrance, trimmed with pilasters and an Ionic entablature, is at one end of the facade . Attached to the 129 OLIVER STREET - EAST SIDE (continued) rear of the house there is an addition which appears to be quite old, if not original. There are lilacs in the yard beside this house . #18 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This house also faces Oliver Street, like most of those on the street, but it is a newer house and has different details . It has two stories plus a pitch roof and is of wood; small, simple paired brackets trim the two-story bay window and under the eaves and the entrance has carved consoles in the "Victorian" style. It is not on the 1874 Atlas and must have been built shortly thereafter. #20 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This wooden house has two stories and a gambrel roof, which sets it apart from its neighbors on the east side of Oliver Street. The exterior of the house does not appear to have been altered over the years . There is a simple pilastered entrance at one end of the three-bay facade . #22 Oliver Street. RATING: TWO PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This simple wooden house in the Greek Revival style has only one story plus a pitch roof and is gable end to the street. The entablature under the eaves is a usual Greek Revival feature as is the recessed entrance in the side yard with rectangular lights around the doorway. The founda- tion under the house is high, especially in the back where the land begins to slope gently down to what was once the bank of the North River. OLIVER STREET - WEST SIDE. (Odd numbers) #5 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This fine example of a large wooden Greek Revival house has a five-bay facade and central recessed entrance. The five-sided lintels above the entrance and windows are typical of the period as are the bold pilaster strips at the ends of the facade and the entablature under the eaves . #7 Oliver Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This is a very narrow two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house on a high modern cinder block foundation. It is not on the 1874 Atlas . 130 J OLIVER STREET - WEST SIDE (Odd numbers) continued The building is L-shaped and shows no signs of being particularly old, nor by the same token does it look like a typical modern house. It may have been moved here and remodeled. #9 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house is gable end to the street. The five-bay facade in the yard is not balanced, and beyond that there is a newer addition, which further unbalances the facade. The entrance in the yard is trimmed with side pilasters and an overhead pediment. There is a three-car garage in the yard. This was the home of Mrs . John Forrester for some years after the Forrester family moved out of their house on Washington Square North. Interesting photographs at the Essex Institute reveal views of the interior of the house when the Forresters lived there. #11 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof,wooden house with its narrow end on the street has a Federal-period entrance in the yard at the south side of the house. The doorway is in the middle of the balanced five-bay facade and is trimmed with reeded pilasters and a pediment in which there is a semicircular fanlight, a favorite detail of the early 1800 ' s . The heavy molded wooden cornice is also a Federal feature. Off the north side of the house there is a small two-story plus pitch roof ell. A brick side- walk leads into the yard of this house; there is a cinder block garage beyond the house in the yard. #15 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof house has a fine entrance in the south yard and a large central chimney. The side entrance of this gable-end- to-the-street wooden house has heavy trim consisting of fluted pilasters and a deeply molded pediment; a simpler entranceion the street may be a slightly later alteration but is still in the Federal style. There is a one-story ell beyond the house and a trellis partition with an arched which and keyed gateway/screens the backyard from view. 131 OLIVER STREET - WEST SIDE (Odd numbers) continued #17 Oliver Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL M It is hard to determine the age of this two-story plus pitch roofwooden (siding) house, which is gable end to the street and hidden behind hand- some trees . It may well be a Federal-period house, the facade of which has been modified by the addition of a two-story, three-sided projecting entrance porch and bay window above. There are also what appear to be later additions to the main portion of the house running back into the large side yard. The present shape of the house has not changed since the 1874 Atlas,which indicates that these modifications (if such they be) were made prior to that time. #19 Oliver Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Changes have altered the appearance of this house, which was probably built during the early 1800 ' s . A two-story enclosed piazza hides the original entrance in the side yard and modern siding covers the window frames ; there is a modern flat-roofed addition beyond the house. The house is basically a two-story plus pitch roof, gable-end-to-the-street structure. #23 Oliver Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus gambrel roof, wooden (siding) house is gable end to the street and back to Bridge Street, which didn ' t exist when this house was built. The house has had a columned porch, flat-roofed ell and two-story entrance tower added to it (prior to 1874 Atlas) , and yet its basic form and style can still be seen. The house belonged to the Pitman family for many years . i 132 ORANGE STREET - From Essex to Derby Street Perley says that Orange Street was laid out about three-quarters of the way from Essex to Derby Street in 1671, by agreement of the several owners of the abutting land, one of whom was Edward Bush, seaman, and that it was continued to the water shortly thereafter. Bentley, writing about the new street names in 1794, complained that "Locust Street & Orange Street ought to have preserved the names of their antient proprietors . . . .Locust should have been Skerry Street, & Orange Street, Bush Street. " In 1809, he complained again, "Orange Street has been a name given at the late naming of the streets by persons uninformed of our topography - shamefully negligent of that duty owed to the memory of primitive settlers. " Unfortunately, he does not reveal why the name Orange was selected; in a list of his parishioners and their residences he includes "Nathaniel Osgood, Shoemaker, at Orange Tree. " Is it possible that there actually was an orange tree in Salem at that time? ORANGE STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers) # ' s 3 - 7 . #3 Orange Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof, clapboard house is gable end to the street, and has an enclosed entrance porch with reeded pilasters in the side yard. The foundation appears to be modern, and an old-time resident of the area says the house, which she called the Stevens ' house, was moved to this location from the site of the Phillips School addition. #5 Orange Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER, This appears to be a simple example of the Italianate or bracketed style popular during the third quarter of the 19th Century. It is a two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house with its gable end to the street. The simple brackets under the eaves and the two- story bay windows are typical of this period. 133 ORANGE STREET - EAST SIDE (Odd numbers) continued #7 Orange Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house faces Orange Street and has a central entrance portico of simple design. It seems likely that the house has been altered somewhat because of the fact that the window spacing on the first and second stories is not matched on the third story. There is a Beverly jog at the north end of the house. 134 PALFREY COURT. From Derby Street north. Palfrey Court appears on the 1851 Map of Salem and had three build- ings on it. It was undoubtedly laid out on land that belonged to des- cendents of Peter Palfrey, a leader among the earliest settlers of Salem. Bentley mentions the Palfreys in connection with the Derby Street area and at one point refers disparagingly to the "rookeries" that belonged to Palfrey. PALFREY COURT, EAST SIDE (Even numbers) -- # ' s 6-14 #6 Palfrey Court. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: TURN OF THE CENTURY. This is a typical three-story, flat-roofed multiple dwelling, commonly called a "triple-decker. " It has 'the usual dentil trim at the cornice, a hallmark of this type of structure, but ,the simple pilastered entrance P in the yard is an unusual feature for this period. #10 Palfrey Court. RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. A touch of Victorian trim has been added to the main entrance in the side-yard of this two-story, end-to-the-street house. It has a gambrel roof, two tall Federal-style chimneys and a mammoth granite door step. A small two-story, pitch roof, wooden ell is attached to the eastern end of the house. There is a small cinder block garage in the yard. #12 Palfrey Court. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This long, narrow, end-to-the-street, two-story plus gambrel roof house was typical of the Federal period until someone sometime added a pro- truding addition with a sharply pitched, lean-to roof to the southern facade of the building, which completely altered its original appear- ance. The entrance is still, as it was, in the side yard, but it is now at the junction of the original building and the added portion. #14 Palfrey Court. RATING: THREE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. The gable end of this two-story, pitch roof house is directly at the foot of Palfrey Court, and its main entrance is in the yard on the 135 PALFREY COURT, EAST SIDE (Even numbers) continued eastern side. The house appears to have been altered from time to time but was probably built in the 1830 ' s. There is a lovely cherry tree in the yard, as well as a two-story, hip roof brick chaisehouse, which also appears to have been altered. 136 t PARKER COURT Parker Court shows on Saunders ' 1820 Map of Salem. The three small houses on this quiet court were all there at least as long ago as the 18 74 Atlas . #1 Parker Court RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is a simple two-story plus pitch roof, gable-end-to-the-street, wooden (shingles) house directly on the street. The gable end has three bays and an entrance at one end above which there is a five-sided lintel over what was probably once a transom light, but is now a wooden panel. #3 Parker Court RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This simple two-story plus a pitch roof, wooden house has a three-bay facade directly on the street. The houseis close to the ground and has a shallow lean-to roof addition in the rear. The window sash and brackets which trim the entrance are both later than the house. #4 Parker Court RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small house, which is similar to the other two on this court, is at the end of it overlooking the back yards of the houses on Pleasant and Winter Streets . It has two stories plus a pitch roof and a two-bay facade, at one side of which there is a simple pilastered entrance and at the other, a three-sided bay window. 137 PICKMAN STREET Pickman Street was laid out through Pickman ' s Field and was only one block long at first, i.e. , it ran from Pleasant Street to the water, according to B. F. Browne. The first reference to it in Bentley notes that in 1798 a "building (was) raised upon Browne ' s land, in Pickman ' s Street. " Bentley made several references to the area a few years later, which are very interesting and worth quoting. January 31, 1817 : . . .Mr. Parker, Son in law of Master Watson, has laid this week the keel of a vessel in the old Shallop cove below Pickman ' s street. This was the place of business for Salem at the first landing on this side but the water is so shallow as to forbid much hopes of its being useful again for purposes of navigation. I suppose the whole Cove from Roache ' s point to Planter' s marsh is not of half the depth as when I first knew it . (1781) The Conduits at the bottom of the Common & along the new settlements empty into it and carry much earth. In May 1817, he wrote: In visiting the Vessel to be launched at next full tides in Shallop' s Cove, below Pickman Street, so called, I examined for the first time the plentiful springs at the foot of the bank N.W. from the street, & nearthe shore. These springs were unobserved before from the inclosed state of the lots till the present time & because the path round the shore was over the bank to avoid the marsh below. The whole bank continues its discharge & in four places continual streams were formed & two of them were accomodated for use by the troughs, & proper receptacles . The water is the best, & the springs are in a bed of clay. One of the Open Springs was at the bottom of the street. These might be made of great advan- tage for distilleries & other arts requiring a constant & rich supply of the best water. On May 30, 1817, Bentley wrote again about this area: This day was launched on the shore below Pickman street into Shallop Cove, a Schooner of 120 tons built for Mr. Parker near his mansion house. No part of Salem has changed so much as this cove since I knew Salem. The filling up of the marshes & of East Street (1967, Forrester Street) , the great quantity of earth brought from the center of the town by the Sluice empty- ing into it & the building & improvements around it has changed the depth very much. No house lot extended to it when I came & its shores were only for pastures . We now find from Roaches point at the Charity house a road upon the eastern part of the Cove & this part filled up. Then from the Old Neck gate (lower Essex Street) , Dalrymple ' s buildings out & the lands in culti- vation, till we come to the Ropewalks between which are Briggs.' court & buildings, Andrew & Pickman streets, besides Pleasant street which brings buildings below Winter Street. Then Osgood ' s wharf & the landings on the northwest side & the wharf at Planter ' s marsh belonging to Pearce & Wait, which is very large & all the marshes drained & inclosed with passages upon 138 PICKMAN STREET (continued) all the lots to the shore & wharves . A change which must appear great & a population & cultivation new. Evidently the street was built upon quite soon after it was opened. Browne reported that there were two brick houses there quite early as well as wooden ones. The brick house at the corner of Milk and Pick- man Streets was built in 1806-07 . One of Salem' s greatest benefactors and most successful merchants, John Bertram, bought a house on Pickman Street in 1829 (#12) . By 1842, he lived at #2 Pickman Street, and from 1845-55 he lived at #24 Winter Street (see Winter Street) . Bertram was a native of the Isle of Jersey, and although he came to Salem after the mercantile trade had begun to decline, he was very successful and was able to found and support generously such institutions as the Old Men ' s Home and Salem Hospital. PICKMAN STREET - NORTH SIDE (Odd numbers) #3 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story, brick, L-shaped building once served as a barn for the Federal period house in front of it on Winter8treet. It was converted into a dwelling shortly after World War II. It is amusing to recall that during the many years when the Rantoul family lived in the house, their cow used to be led each spring to their house in Beverly Farms and walked back to Salem each fall. The conversion of the building to a house has not destroyed the character of the old brick building. #5 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This large two-story plus pitch roof, wooden house is an excellent example of the Italianate style. It has ornate paired carved brackets under the eaves, varied trim about the windows and square columns which support the raised front portico. The facade, or gable end of the house, which is on the street, is rusticated wood, while the sides are clapboarded. PLEASANT STREET CROSSES. 139 PICKMAN STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) #11 Pickman Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL (?) The general size and scale of this simple two-story plus pitch roof house suggests the Federal period. The house, which is gable end to the street, has a high brick foundation and may have been moved to this location. Undoubtedly the large entrance porch is a later addition to the house. Gray shingles cover what were probably clapboards originally, and modern window blinds serve to cover up the true style of this house. There is a small, very low stud, two-story plus pitch roof addition behind the house. #13 Pickman Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL (?) Like ##11 Pickman Street, this house was probably once a simple wooden, two-story plus pitch roof, gable-end-to-the-street house of the Federal period. During the years, a great many alterations and additions have been made so that it is hard to recognize it as being of any particular style; a two-story porch has been added near what is now the front door, the first two stories of the .street or gable end have been built out so they project beyond the original end of the house, and two additions have been added to the back of the house. #17 Pickman Street RATING: ONE: PERIOD: FEDERAL. This substantial three-story plus hip roof, square brick house is typical of the Federal style in Salem. The brickwork on the facade is Flemish bond which usually means the house was built before 1817, and the wide wooden "plank" window frames suggest a date prior to 1810. The house is belted at the first, second and third floor levels and has a bold, but simple, wooden cornice_ The house shows signs of modifications made some years ago, probably when it was made ready for use as the Mack Industrial School. Miss Esther Mack, a member of the Mack family, which gave Mack Park (Ledge Hill Park) to the city, left funds years ago to establish a domestic science school for girls; it was in this building that the instruction was given until the 1920 ' s,when there was no longer a need for this 140 PICKMAN STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) service. The sbhool was closed, and the funds spent on scholarships for Salem girls. The scholarships are still being given. The heaviness of the arch over the front door is not typical of the Federal period and is probably a later modification in the 'colonial" style. The original six-over-six windows have been replaced by two- over-twcs,and the lintels above the windows are not all the same, as they once would have been. 'The double-keyed window lintels on the west end of the building appear to be wooden and are probably original. Those on the facade are a simple rectangular shape and seem to be stone. The brick steps leading up to the front door are quite new. #19 Pickman Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. (?) This wide two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (shingles) house rests on a high granite foundation and faces the street. It has a simple three-bay facade and central front door above which there is a small bay window. The lack of architectural trim or any outstanding feature makes it difficult to label this house as to age and style. #193-2 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. . PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This small one-story, plus straight-sided Mansard roof, wooden house is set well back from the street. There is a porch running across the front of the house which has simple columns and a balustrade as well as a row of small spindles just below the porch roof. #21 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof, rectangular, wooden house is typical of the Federal Period, although it now has two-over-two windows, and siding covers the original clapboards . The entrance, framed by heavy pilasters and a Doric entablature, is in the side yard. There is a newer three- story ell beyond the house. The house has a solid granite foundation. #23 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This small one-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house faces the street. It has a high foundation. There are simple brackets under the eaves and a bay' window to one side of the front door. Boldly carved 141 4 f e PICKMAN STREET - NORTH SIDE (continued) rope trim frames the entrance and also appears on the bay window. #25 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small gable-end-to-the-street, shingled house has a simple pilastered entrance in the side yard. The entrance is in the middle of the five- bay facade, and a modern, lean-to porch has been built out over the doorway. #27 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This two-story plus pitch roof house is gable end to the street and has a divided door on the Pickman Street side with ornate consoles supporting the roof, which projects overhead. The house has simple brackets under the eaves with a quatrefoil cut-out motif in each one. On the Webb Street or water side of the house there are three dormers and a two- story bay window, from which the view must be pleasant. PICKMAN STREET - SOUTH SIDE (Even numbers) #2 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This rectangular, three-story plus hip roof, wooden house has been altered in appearance by its wide modern clapboards and the addition of a bay window above a Greek Revival entrance. It is possible that the house was built in the Greek Revival period; however, the shape and general style of the house are typical of the Federal period. John Bertram (see above) was living here in 1842, and he wrote that "we moved r in our new brick house on the opposite side of the street in 1845, " (probably across Winter Street) ; it is not probable that he moved from one new house to another, hence the earlier date for #2 seems accurate . The old six-over-six windows have been replaced with two-over-two, and the wooden cornice is more or less hidden by the gutters . There is a two-story pitch roof ell attached to one side of and at right angles to the main house. #4 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof, oblong brick (Flemish bond) house is an interesting one to study, because one can see (from variations in the 142 s 4 S PICKMAN STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) brick) evidence of some of the modifications that have been made in it. The narrow end of the house is on the street, and originally a Federal style fanlighted entrance was in the east yard facing Collins Cove. That door has now been blocked up, and the Greek Revival style recessed entrance is on the street in what is an entirely new strip of the house running the whole depth of it. Like many other brick houses in this particular neighborhood, there are no lintels above the plank-frame windows . The house was probably built before 1817, when Flemish bond seems to have gone out of style or become too expensive. Kimball says a mantel said to have come from this house and sold at auction in 1931 was apparently carved by Samuel Field McIntire. Whether he did other work in the house is not known. PLEASANT STREET CROSSES. #12 Pickman Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. Robert Cook, who built #14 Pickman Street in 1811, built this three- story plus hip roof, wooden house between 1813 and 1815, when he died. On the basis of style and workmanship, Fiske Kimball attributes it to Samuel Field McIntire. In 1829, Nathaniel Weston sold it to John Bertram, who evidently lived here until he moved to #2. Pickman. In 1836, Charles Millet bought the house; he was master of the ship Tybee in 1832 and opened the wool trade between this country and Australia at that time. The front door at the eastern end of the three-bay facade on the street has a semicircular fanlight above it, side lights and delicately fluted pilasters at either side. The roof above the entrance and supporting consoles area later addition. #14 Pickman Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This vine-covered . brick (Flemish bond) , three-story plus hip roof house has many delicate Federal details, the most outstanding of which is the slightly recessed front doorway ornamented by delicate Ionic columns, finely carved Adamesque husks and ribbons and sidelights . The 143• PICKMAN STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) house has a five-bay facade and is directly on the street; it rests on a granite foundation. The wooden cornice has a row of brick dentils* below it, and the first and second-story Windows have reeded oblong stone .lintels. The house wasbuilt by Robert Cook in 1811 and is attributed to Samuel Field McIntire, whose famous father died in 1811. Mr. Cook had the house at #12 Pickman Street built several years later and owned them both at the time of his death in 1815 . His children sold it in 1839 to James Kimball, whose daughter lived there until her death in 1923 . Kimball was the master of the brig Leander. i #16 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This three-story plus hip roof, brick (Flemish bond) house was built as a double house to be sold in 1806-1807 by David Lord, the builder. This is the same David Lord who built the Pickering Dodge house at #29 Chestnut Street in 1822-23 . The double house was sold bounded by "the middle of the brick dwelling house" shortly afterwards and accord- ing to Fiske Kimball is very like the Woman ' s Friend Society building on Hawthorne Boulevard. The house has two fanlighted entrances : one in the yard on Pickman Street and one facing Milk Street. The windows are set in wide plane frames, a common feature until about 1810, and have no decorative lintels above them, a feature which seems to be limited to this immediate area in Salem. The house has been vacant. for many years ; its windows are boarded up, and the stairs are rotting. MILK STREET BEGINS. #18 Pickman Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This small two-story plus gambrel roof house faces Pickman Street and has probably changed very little in exterior appearance since it was built. The Federal period door with simple pilastered frame is on the street; the house has a large central chimney. There is a small ell behind the house, and the original clapboards are covered with siding. 144. PICKMAN STREET - SOUTH SIDE (continued) #182 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story plus hip roof, square, wooden house has a projecting pitch roof ell with a pronounced gable and triple-bay windows below, which create the impression of complexity popular the latter part of the 19th century. The front entrance is reached through a porch supported by turned posts typical of the period as is the simple, cut-out dentil strip on the cornice. #20 Pickman Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL. This small two-story plus gambrel roof house is very similar to #18 in character; it has a three-bay facade and boldly molded pediment over the doorway. The original clapboards are now covered with siding. On the west end a small stained-glass window has been installed, probably during the end of the 19th century. There is an ell at the back of the house. #22 Pickman Street RATING: THREE: PERIOD: INDETERMINATE. This two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house is very narrow and has its gable end on the street. Itlack of detail and unusual narrowness make it hard to date. It may be a workshop which was converted into a house. #24 Pickman Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large two-story plus pitch roof, wooden (siding) house is also gable end to the street, and has a "Victorian" entrance at one side of the street end and a two-story high, four-window bay at the other. The brackets under the eaves are very small and simple and few. 145. PLEASANT STREET The opening of the Essex Bridge to Beverly in 1788 spurred the development of the area around the Common, and Bentley noted in 1795 that there were "Exertions to open Pleasant Street into Bridge Street. " Earlier the name Pleasant Street referred towhat is now Washington Square East. The street was laid out in 1796 and accepted in 1797 . Browne -writing of his youth around 1800 said the only house on the street was that of William B. Browne, built in 1799; this seems to have been on the site of the present house at #35 . According to a photograph at the Essex Insti- tute the original house was a typical simple pitch roof gable-end-to-the- street wooden building. By 1803 Bentley reported "Several buildings going on in Pleasant Street, " and a manuscript at the Essex Institute, compiled about the same time, mentions two houses on the street, that of Joseph Vincent, built by Hodges a cooper, and that of Ebenezer Goodhue; whether that refers to Washington Square East or present--day Pleasant Street is hard to know. When the city renamed the streets around the Common, Pleasant Streetwas shortened and renumbered. It seems likely that David Lord, the builder, had much to do with the early growth of Pleasant Street} as other individuals were occasionally active developing other streets . Lord is known as the architect for Pickering Dodge when he built the large house atf;29 Chestnut Street. He built the house at #23-25 Pleasant Street in 1825-26 and lived in the southern half himself. He built #29 Pleasant Street in 1836, and the 1874 Atlas shows that #22-24 belong to the heirs of D�vLord. It seems possible that he was involved with other property on the street also. Generally speaking,, the houses on the west side of the street are older than those on the east. An old print at the Essex Institute shows the street lined with large elm trees and "Old Salem Gardens" mentions it as a street of small 146. PLEASANT STREET (continued) gardens . George D. Phippen outgrew his garden on Bridge Street and acquired a lot on Pleasant Street before he finally got two acres between Bridge Street and Collins Cove where he had a tremendous garden. PLEASANT STREET - WEST SIDE #8 Pleasant Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This is basically a simple two-story plus pitch roof gable-end-to-the- street house with two chimneys which seem to be Federal in shape. The original house has been altered by the addition of two three-sided, two- story bay windows and a two-story open veranda supported by square columns . These modifications have greatly altered the original simple style of the house. #10 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL. This also is a narrow and simple gable-end-to-the-street wooden house: however, it has a gambrel roof, the only one on this street. The house has two Federal chimneys and simple dormer windows ; the entrance on ahe southern side of the house is hidden by two large evergreen trees. The brick path through the side yard, wooden trellis and picket fence with square capped fence posts are attractive accents to this old house, which is architecturally intact. #12 Pleasant Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large two story plus pitch roof,wooden (siding) house with its gable end on the street is a simple example of a double house of the end of the 1800 ' s . It has a Colonial Revival portico and high steps leading to the two doorways which are side by side on the gable end beside a three-sided,, two-story bay. #14 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story plus pitch roof,gable-end-to-the-street ,wooden house is very simple in style and appears from the north side to have escaped remodeling. Its major feature is the fine Greek Revival doorway with its flat paneled 1470 PLEASANT STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) pilasters, six-pane sidelights and two-pane transom and mutules (little drops ). The southern side of the house has been enlarged by a large two-story bay and portico, wn ch completely alters its Greek Revival character.. The side yard is separated from the sidewalk by a, iron picket fence with molded iron posts. #16 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This is basically very similar to three or four other simple two-story plus pitch roof. gable-end-to-the-street houses in this row. However, in this case, the south facade of the wooden (siding) house has had a large late 1800 ' s two-story porch added over the original Greek Revival entrance, as well as a large square addition which projects from the end of the facade. A smaller, older two-story plus pitch roof ell is attached to the back of the house. PARKER COURT BEGINS . #18 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This seemingly small one-story plus pitch roof house (it is actually L-shaped and larger than it looks) seems to combine two periods quite successfully. It is first of all a Greek Revival structure with a matched- board facade, high foundation, French windows and three dormers in the roof. However, ornate brackets of the Italianate style and a double door of the same period have been installed where once there was undoubtedly a simple Greek Revival doorway. #20 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : GREEK REVIVAL. This is an excellent example of the small and very simple Greek Revival one-story plus a pitch roof dwelling. It has a simple pilastered entrance at one side of the gable or street end. Probably once the boards at the corners of the house were wider and suggested the columns of a Greek temple, but now this is apparently covered with new aluminum clapboard siding. The house looks as neat as a small Greek temple should. 1480 f e PLEASANT STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) #22-24 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL. This large three-story plus a pitch roof ;wooden house must have been one of the first uilt on this street. It has two Federal style chimneys and a fine entrance with a semicircular fanlight surmounted by a pediment over the door, a style that lasted until around 1810 ; the entrance is in the middle of the five-bay facade of the house, which is set back from the street. On the back and south sides of the house there is a large two-story plus a pitch roof addition, which may actually pre-date the house, although the street is thought not to have had any houses on it much earlier than this . #26-28 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : FEDERAL. Like #22-24 Pleasant Street this also is a fine example of the large rectangular three-storyfwooden house of the Federal period. In this case, the house has a hip roof and the entrance with its semi eliptical fanlight and side pilasters is in the middle of the five-bay facade in the yard. #30 Pleasant Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD : THIRD QUARTER. This simple two-story plus pitch roof ,,wooden • (siding) house in the Italianate style is small enough to go well with its neighbors. It is trimmed with paired brackets and hood moldings over the windows . The entrance on the gable end is balanced by a three-sided bay beside it. A small lean-to garage which is attached to the side of the house right beside the front door detracts from the original style of the houE. PICKMAN STREET CROSSES. Beyond Pickman Street there is a one-storypitch roof) two-car garage in an otherwise spacious yard. #34 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD- FEDERAL. This is the third large Federal period house on this side of Pleasant Street . It has two stories plus a pitch roof and is gable end to the street so that it faces Pleasant Street Aven A small Colonial Revival 1,49 PLEASANT STREET - WEST SIDE (continued) bubble, part portico and part enclosed porchthas been added to house an entrance on the gable end. The original entrance (now double) on the south side has been altered by the addition of a heavy Italianate canopy and brackets above the very long semi eliptical fanlight. Whether the house always had a double doorway is unknown. PLEASANT STREET - EAST SIDE #15 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This is a small L-shaped., one-story plus Mansard roof2wooden house with simple bold trim. There are many square topped dormer windows, and a covered porch supported by square posts leads to the entrance near the angle of the ell. One of the most unusual features of this house is in there is a its yard. wYerqAbquare gazebo in the Queen Anne style of the late 1800 ' s . It has turned posts and a steep hip roof decorated with scalloped cresting rails and cut-out scallops around the bottom of the roof. WEBSTER STREET BEGINS #17 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This large two-story plus pitch roofywooden house is in the Italianate style and is architecturally intact. The entrance in the gable or street end has ornate Victorian brackets and a bay window overhead. The long side of the house on Webster Street is broken up by a large two-story. three- sided bow and varied window treatments (entablatures and hood moldings) as well as three pedimented dormer windows. There are Italianate brackets under the overhanging eaves. #19-21 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is a large two-story plus Mansard roof wooden house of the same style and general period as #17 . It faces the street and has a recessed central entry with a canopy and bay window above it. There are a series of pedi- mented dormer windows in the roof, and the first and second floor windows which are treated differently / was the style at that time. 150. PLEASANT STREET - F..QST SIDE (continued) #23-25 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This two-story plus pitch roof wooden house is directly on the street. It has a high foundation and five-bay facade with a central recessed entrance. Some of the trim is Greek Revival in character. The o<v:ner has done some research on the house and says that it was originally a double house, the northern half of which was moved to the location in 1825 and the southern half of which was built the next year. The gentleman who did this is none other than David Lord, the builder, who lived in the southern half. SPRING STREET BEGINS. #29 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : GREEK REVIVAL. David Lord built this simple two-story plus pitch roof house facing Pleasant Street in 1836. The original entrance has now been replaced by one in the Italianate style with a divided door with round topped windows in each half and with carved Gothic trim around the door frame. Victorian consoles and a canopy complete the design. The house has a two-story ell attached to the rear and three tall slender chimneys . PICKMAN STREET CROSSES. #31 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: THIRD QUARTER. This is an outstandingly bold example of the architecture of the third quarter of the 19th century. It is a large two-story plus hip roof wooden building set back from the street on a raised terrace. The brackets under the eaves are bigger than usual and less frilly since they are angular rather than rounded. The front entrance is between -two square bay windows and under a roof from which hang two very large turned drops. The corners of the house are quoined and the facade is of matched boards. There is a low iron picket fence around the property. This was once the home of Captain Charles Millet. #33 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD : THIRD QUARTER. This handsome large two story plus pitch roof house set upon a high 151 I PLEASANT STREET - FAST SIDE (continued) granite foundation is interesting because it is either a late classical house or an early example of the Colonial Revival style which reached its height around the end of the 1800 ' s . The owner thinks it was built around 1850 . It has a central entrance beyond a portico supported by simple fluted columns . The entrance is in a slightly projecting bay with a pediment at its top which breaks into the pitch roof of the house. The house is trimmed with many modillions in the classic style and with quoined corners . In the yard there is a small two-story pitch roof chaise house trimmed with the same modillions . #35 Pleasant Street RATING: TWO. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This square wooden house has two stories plus a Mansard roof trimmed with fish scale slates and pedimented dormer windows; it is built upon a terrace. The central entrance portico is supported by square columns and has a bay window above it. The house is trimmed with small scroll brackets and has a fancy cast iron fence in front of it. In the yard behind the house there is a large two-story wooden stable with a steeply pitched roof and a facade gable . It is contemporary with the house and the exterior appears to be unchanged. This is probably the site of the oldest house on Pleasant Street, which was built in 1799. 152. F THE SALEM COMMON (See also Washington Square.) Perley found the Common referred to as "Ye common commonly called ye pen" in 1668 , the common in 1671 and the "Training field commonly called ye pen" in 1694. H. B. Adams wrote in an article in the Essex Institute Historical Collection that the present Common was a town waste in the early days, and Bentley said it was called the Town Swamp. This swampy land was not assigned to individuals for house lots, and on that May 8, 1685 , the town voted "the Common against the front of Governor Bradstreet ' s pasture, is appointed a place in which persons may shoot at a mark. " November 16, 1713 , the town voted that "the common lands where the trainings are generally kept in the town nigh and before Mr. Nathaniel Higginson' s Dwelling be and remain as it now lays to continue forever for a Training Field for the use of the said town of Salem. " At the same time it was also "Voated That all the Highways and Burying Places and Common Lands lying within the Town Bridge and the Block houses be And Remain for Ever for the use of the Town of Salem. " The Salem Common remained a training field for many, many years thereafter, although it can ' t have been a very comfortable area in which to train because it had five ponds within its bounds as well as numerous hillocks and swampy areas . In 1695 John Higginson and Jacob Manning were granted the right to "turn the course of the water through the i Common from pond to pond until it might be carried into the main gutter that runs down to the cove" (Collins Cove) . The land was not only wet and uneven, but a Mrs. Babbidge, who died in 1804 aet. 90, told Bentley that she used to pick berries on the Common; and. B. F. Browne wrote in 1862 that it had been unenclosed and stray geese, pigs and hens wandered there. Perley said cattle were collected in a pen near present day Williams Street prior to being driven to the Neck pasture. There are several events which took place in the Common during the latter part of the 18th century that give some idea of its use at that time. The authors of Old Naumkeag tell the story as follows: i[ In 1769 Thomas Row and Robert Wood, for giving information against 153. c � THE SALEM COMMON (continued) a vessel in our harbor to His Majesty ' s officers were seized and carried to a tree, which was termed the "Liberty Tree " on the Common and there tarred and feathered. They were then set in a cart, with the word ' Informer 's placarded upon their breast and back, and led through the streets, preceded by a crowd. A live goose was also repeatedly thrown at them. At the end of the Main Street, the throng. . .bade them leave the town. it Phillips 1in Salem in the 18th Centurywrotethat the vessel was trying to bring in goods without paying the newly enacted Stamp Tax, and that the event took place a year earlier in 1768. Governor Hutchinson, just prior to being supplanted by General Gage as Governor in 1774, came to Salem and reviewed the First Essex Regiment on the Common and was afterwards entertained handsomely by Salem' s citizens, especially the Tory element, according to Phillips. Robert Rantoul, writing in 1863, recalled standing on a chair in the bedroom window of his grandfather' s house in 1781 to see the cannon fired in . Pleasant Street (now Washington Square East) when the news that ' Cornwallis had capitulated reached Salem. Bentley throughout his diary makes frequent references to the state of the Common and to events taking place there. On February 11, 1790, he wrote "A Federal discharge of Cannon on the Common in honor of the birth of our Illustrious President George Washington" . May 2, 1793 , he wrote, "a canal dug down the Common to convey water from the street, " and in 1795 he noted, "Ice in Pond on Common sufficient to bear the boys. " By this time the streets around the Common, which were then known by frequently changing names (See Washington Square) were opened, but those streets which radiate off to the north aid east were not; instead tanyards and ropewalks occupied those areas. There were several public buildings on the Common itself, such as a charity house, gun house and school house, which may be the one that was moved in 1803 to Forrester Street, and then some years later moved to #14 Webb Street where the present owner recently found evidence of a blackboard buried in an interior wall. The transformation of the Common and the building of the large brick mansions around it took place during the early 1800 ' s. On July 9, 154• f 4 ' 6 THE SALEM COMMON (continued) 1801, Bentley wrote that the newspaper "proposed levelling the Common and planting trees . " The same year Elias Hasket Derby was elected Colonel of the newly reorganized Salem militia, and it was he who sparked the private subscription to level the Common and lay it down to grass with gravel walks, to plant a double row of Lombardy Poplar trees around it and enclose it with a fence. The cost of this was $2, 625 .00, and it was carried out in the spring of 1802 . Also subscribed was $327 .00 "For the purpose of executing the designs for four gateways as given by Mr. S. McIntire, for ornamenting Washington Square. " These large orna- mental carved gateways, one on each side, were put up within a few years of the time the Common was leveled. Some of the carved motifs from the gates may be seen now (1967) at the Essex Institute; they include a medallion of Washington, which was on the western entrance. An illustration in Bentley ' s Diary shows the West Gate as it was prior to its removal in 1850 ; probably the present iron fence was erected about that time. On May 18, 1802, Bentley wrote, "It is said it is agreed to call the Common which is now almost levelled and railed, Washington Square. This is better than walking in common. " George Ropes, 101ho was "born deaf and dumb but of clear intellect,' and who died aet. 31 in 1819s painted a large picture of the Common on a training day which shows it with the now unfamiliar looking rows of poplar trees; this picture is also at the Essex Institute. B. F. Browne wrote of the poplars that it was "soon discovered their decay was as rapid as their growth. " Bentley put it even more strongly in 1818 when he said: .'�-orrester 's money will serve to decorate Washingtai Square. . . . Advertisements for Elms are in the newspapers . When the Lombardy poplars came into fashion the rage for them was extreme. They were planted like the[ Locust tree everywhere. They have lost1their reputation t:ho the handsomer tree we have. They are not durable tho quick. They grow high, but they spread below. They have insects, but large. Indeed the fashion is against them. Posterity may profit from our elms . And indeed we have, until recently. There are occasional references made to the great Elm tree on the Common. 1770 THE SALEM COMMON (continued) Bentley noted on October 16, 1786, "Was cut down the great Elm Tree at the corner of the Street, facing the Common and leading to St. Peters Church. " In the 1773 Report of the Committee on Streets printed in as Felt ' s Annals treaent-day Brown Streed is defined/running from St. Peter ' s Church to the Elms. Miss Mary Narbonne, when she wasvery old, reported that many years before there had been a tannery west of Williams Street in front of which were three enormous elms; to advertise his business, the tanner had inserted a large crudely carved, wooden hog in the crotch of the tree; the wooden animal is now at the Essex Institute. Perhaps this stand of large elms was about where the present statue of Roger Conant is now. In 1809 Bentley wrote, "Building goes on briskly in Salem. We have six brick buildings now finishing in the eastern part of the town. . . . " By this time most of the streets running north and east from the Common were opened and built up. In 1819 he wrote, "We have made. great repairs on our roads . Tons of earth and stones have been brought from Mill hill, from Northfields & the Neck. The roads around Washington place are in good repair. " Both Mary Northend in Memories of Old Salem and Browne in a 1915 Essex Institute Historical Collection article wrote vivid descriptions of the Common Training Day. Mary Northend wrote that the "tented field drew a big and mixed assemblage.• 9,9 •11 People drank punch and e and egg bought gingerbread, and a Punch and Judy show and wrestling matches evidently appealed to her as a young girl. Browne said, "Refreshment tents were planted on each side of Newbury Street (west) , both sides of Bath Street (south), and on the south side of Brown Street (north) , in which were for sale various kinds of spirituous liquors and various kinds of food and confectionery. . . .Of more humble character, would be tables and stands of oysters. . . .Fights were not infrequent and attracted large crowds. . . . '° The members of the militia must have considered the newly leveled training field a great improvement over the prior swampy gound, 156. L THE SALEM COMMON (continued) where Browne wrote he had seen an officer fall into a pond "to the manifest derangement of his hat, plume and sword, and the soilment of his breeches, coat, stockings and gaiters. " According to the Salem City Manual, the Park Department acquired the Common (about 9 acres) in 1928 as a playground. The Visitor ' s Guide to Salem says the grandstand was built in 1926. The statue of Roger Conant northwest of the Common was dedicated in 1913; it was designed by Henry Kitson for the Conant Family Association to honor Salem' s first leader and founder. 157. SPRING STREET - SOUTH SIDE ONLY There is little information available about Spring Street. It does not appear on Saunders ' 1820 Map of Salem, although there is a reference to a building there prior to that time. The photograph file at the Essex Institute shows the Pulsifer carpet factory on SpripgStreet, which is no longer standing, and the notation at one side identifies it as having originally been Billy Gray' s sail-loft. Since Mr. Gray left Salem in the early 1800 ' s.this implies that the land was built up by then, unless the information is inaccurate.. According to B. F. Browne, Matthew Vincent, the son of Joseph Vincent, founder of the ropewalk on the Common, had a house and cordage factory on Spring Street which was later used for the manufacture of duck. Browne also wrote that the street was laid out through open land of Colonel Benjamin Pickman. . There were many springs in this area (See Pickman Street) , and Bentley refers to Shallop Cape and Spring Cove in 1805, so presumably the street commemorates some Long-forgotten spring. SPRING STREET - SOUTH SIDE.- Most IDE.Most of the buildings on this side of the street face Pickman Street and are numbered there. About halfway down the street there .is a modern multi-car garage. At the water end there are several houses which are described below. #16 Spring Street RATING: - THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This flat-roofed, three-story, wooden building is very narrow and very close to its neighbors. It has a two-story bay window on the front as its only architectural feature. #18 Spring Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This two-story plu>pitch roof, gable end to the street building is a small, simple wooden house of its time with a three-window bay on the street and the doorway at the far end of a small porch to one side of the main building. #20 Spring Street RATING: THREE. PERIOD: FOURTH QUARTER. This house is very similar to #18 Spring Street, i.e. it is a two-story 158 SPRING STREET - SOUTH SIDE continued plus pitch roof, shingled house with its gable end on the street. A bay window projects on the street end of the house and the entrance is reached at one side through a porch with typical turned posts. 1590 l F ST.. PETER STREET Saint Peter Street is one of the oldest streets in Salem. Perley records that it was called the lane to the North River in 1660, and was later known as Prison Lane because the jail which was in use during the witchcraft ordeal was near the corner of St. Peter and Federal Streets. Parts of the old jail were discovered within a much enlarged and altered house when it was demolished to make room for the new . telephone building; some of the timbers from it are now stored at the Essex Institute. Prisoners going from the jail to Gallows Hill for execution are said to have gone by way of St. Peter Street to Essex Street. Prison Lane was renamed St. Peter Street in 1738, shortly after the first St. Peter's Church was erected, according to Perley. The North River once came up to the foot of St. Peter Street to for a cove known as Waller' s Cove named /thristopher. Waller. who lived where the jail now is . When the railroad tracks were laid across the mouth of this 'cove, the resulting enclosed body of water was called St. Peter' s Basin according to the 1897 Atlas. Gradually all of the cove was filled inland today there are no signs of Waller ' s Cove. This area of Salem was once known as "Button Hole" for reasons which are evidently lost in the past; perhaps some wag wanted to dignify the area with a name, jealous of the fact that the High Street Post Office section was called "Knocker ' s Hole. " ST. PETER STREET - EAST SIDE #' s 24-50. St. Peter ' s Church. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GOTHIC REVIVAL. The land on which this church stands was given for a church by Philip English in 1733 . English, one of Salem' s most successful merchants during the 17th Century,' was accused of being a witch in 1692, and both he and his wife fled with assistance from the Boston jail to. New York and thus escaped being hanged at Gallows Hill. Mrs . 160. ST. PETER STREET - EAST SIDE continued English died shortly thereafter; Philip, a man of strong character and conviction, and a believer in the Church of England, declined to pay taxes to support the established Congregational Church during the later years of his life and was threatened again with jail. The first Church of England meeting house was built in 1733 and stoned during the Revolution; it was demolished in 1833, when the present stone church was erected. Built of rough granite blocks, the church faces Church Street; it is one-story high with a hip roof and square, crenelated, projecting tower in the center of the facade. The tall windows are Gothic in style. The building was enlarged by an addition in 1845 and by an attached chapel dedicated in 1872. On either side of the facade tower, small enclosed yards contain some slate, crested gravestones of the 18th Century. Some of the old Salem names on these memorials are Hathorne, Ingersoll, Manning, Tousel, Palfrey, Bowditch, Pue and Saunders. A picture in the Church of the earlier building shows that these burying yards were once larger, and it also shows an old town pump in the street in front of ,the church. At one time a weeping willow, said to have been a cutting from the tree at Napoleon ' s tomb, grew in the southwest front yard. An excellent account of St. Peter' s . Church and its history, called "A Brief History of St. Peter ' s Church was edited by Rev. Clinton W. Macy and printed in 1958. #24 St. Peter Street. PERIOD: 1930 ' s. The Parish House of St. Peter' s Church was built in 1934. It is a two-story, stucco or cement structure set back from the street. #24-28 St. Peter Street. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: GREEK REVIVAL. This two-story, brick, double house faces directly on St. Peter Street 161. ST. PETER STREET - EAST SIDE continued and has two recessedrmatching doorways in the center of the six-bay facade. At either -end of the house there are two matching parapeted chimneys. The brick entablature and dentil course under the eaves and the plain brown stone lintels above the windows are the only decorative details; the house is characterized by its simplicity and symmetry. It is now used as a rectory by St. John the Baptist Church. Both George Billias, biographer of General Glover, and Perle Y believed this to have been the site of the birthplace of General John Glover, the donor of his ship Hannah, to General Washington; Glover and his seafaring Marblehead regiment was responsible for ferrying Revolutionary forces out of a difficult spot in Long Island and later across the Delaware River for a successful attack. His praises are sung both in Beverly and in Marblehead. Very few people seem to realize that he was born in Salem on St. Peter Street. St. John the Baptist Church. RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. St. John the Baptist Church is a brick building, setback from St. Peter Street overlooking Federal Street . it was dedicated in 1826 and known at that time as The Second Baptist Church, the parishioners having broken away from the First Baptist Church. Bentley comments frequently and sometimes tartly on the growing popularity of "Immersions. as he called it. In March 1816, he wrote, "A young man, lately a common sailor, led this morning seven young females below our wharves into the water for ba.ptism. . .They professed to be wonderfully edified. Th. (ough) below freezing in open air." The church became known as the Central Baptist Church in 1855, and in 1909 it was bought by the Polish Catholic Church and called St. John the Baptist Church. Originally, it was a typical Federal 162. ST. PETER STREET - EAST SIDE continued period brick church with a pitch roof and four-sided domed tower or lantern. The gable end faced the street and contained three entrances separated by pilasters. The building was first remodeled in 1867 and extensively altered in 1877, when it was raised to give space for a chapel in the basement. Within the last two decades the church has been enlarged by the addition on the front of a projecting, pedimented central bay. St. John the Baptist School and Catholic Youth Center is housed in a post-war, two-story, flat-roofed building northeast of the church, set way back from the street. The Ward House, which formerly stood north of St. John the Baptist Church, was moved about 1910 to the yard behind the Essex Institute and restored to its 17th century condition. #48 St. Peter Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL. This fine three-story brick house in the yard of the Salem Jail was built for the Jail Keeper of Sheriff by the County. It is said to have by been designed by Samuel Field McIntire, or even/nis father who died in 1811, but the latter seems unlikely. It should be easy to search the County records and document this house. Writing on December 21, 1813, Bentley says, "The dwelling house in the yard (of the Jail) of brick is finished outside in the brick work. . . . The house has a typical Federal hip roof and fine portice supported by slender columns which shelters the entrance with its fanlight and unusual sidelights; the heart motif used in the sidelights is similar to that at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts which came from Oak Hill in Peabody which is con- sidered to have been the work of McIntire. The brickwork is Flemish bond and the splayed stone window lintels suggest the reeding popular in this period. Shaped bricks form the dentil cornice. 163. ST. PETFXX STREET - EAST SIDE continued South of the Sheriff ' s house there is a Federal period, two-story, hip roofed, wooden chaise house to which several ells have been added. #50 St. Peter Street RATING: ONE. PERIOD: FEDERAL AND FOURTH QUARTER The use of stone as a building material was rather an innovation in Salem in the early 1800 ' s, when the original or eastern portion of the Salem Jail was built. Bentley gives some dates for the work on this massive building. November 5, 1811, he writes, "Preparations are making for the New Gaol in this town., " , and two mays later he reports; "The lower floor of the Stone Gaol in Salem is now laying upon stone work eight feet deep. The building is 64 ':,y 38 . " Two years later he notes, "The new Stone Gaol is finished in the best manner. I should not have preferred a wooden top . . . _ all the foundation walls of the enclo- sure clo- sure of the Gaol are laid in stone deeply and firmly. " Bentley ' s notes above refer to the original part of the jail, the eastern wing. The old building was greatly enlarged to the west in 1884-1885 ; photographs at the Essex Institute show various stages of the new construction. The new addition lacks the ornamentation customary in the 1880 ' s, which suggests that it was designed to blend with the old; similar massive stones were used. The two octagonal cupolas on the building, one at the east and one at the west, are different, yet they balance each other. The plain iron fence which surrounds the enclosure rests on a heavy stone base. 164* J