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A WALKING TOUR OF SALEM FOR GEOGRAPHERS A WALKING TOUR of SALEM MASSACKUSET FS L for geographers Theodore 5. Pikora Professor of Geography 4�t Salem state College ■ ■ H t NESTVAL `97 NEW ENGI AND- ST. I.AWRENCE VALLEY GEOGRAPIRCAL SOCIETY J'Y' a jALEM, M STATE EGE SACHUSEM E A WALKING TOUR OF I SALEM, MASSACHUSETTS for geographers Theodore S. Pikora Professor of Geography Salem State College Salem is a remarkable subject for an analysis of urban evolution because there is a wealth of { easily visible structures and land use patterns, all within a comfortable walking distance in the downtown. This guide is an attempt to highlight fragments from the city's past and present in order to develop a comprehensive understanding of a changing geography. It has two t components. The first is a brief,but informative,overview of the major social and economic stages that have shaped the city. It is essential reading for an appreciation of the overall setting and meaning of many of the specific sites. The second part is the walking tour itself. It can be _ completed in about two hours, or an entire day, depending on several route options and the t amount of time spent at individual locations and attractions. I i. , i fi An Historical Overview of Salem iAt least five historical eras are reflected in the cityscape of Salem. They include the periods of (1)early settlement, (2)the economic prosperity and cultural creativity of maritime trade, (3) the years of manufacturing and population diversity, (4)the city as a retail and service center ion the North Shore of Boston,and(5)a more recent focus on tourism development. Early Settlement: The period of early settlement began in 1626 when Roger Conant landed on the northern rim of the old Naumkeag Peninsula of Salem(Fig. 1). He had sailed here after a failed attempt to create a fishing colony at the eastern tip of Cape Ann,and his principal goal was to survive by farming. Within several years, John Endecott and then John Winthrop arrived under the aegis of the Massachusetts Bay Company,and the community grew rapidly. Fish,fur and lumber provided for the basic economy,while Roger Conant and his followers supplied food crops from nearby farmsteads along waterways to the north and west of the settlement. Most of the activity during the 1600's focused on the South River where ships docked on the shoreline from the present day Post Office eastward toward Winter Island,the center of the fishing industry. On the North IRiver, the odors of animal processing dominated an area called`Blubber Hollow." Farther downstream was the often deafening noise generated by the crafting of dugout canoes,a popular mode of local transport. 1 ' Salem's land use pattern was not unlike the model of other coastal communities during this period.. An early version of Essex Street bisected the peninsula from east to west,and it divided :=I a dense network of property lines that was oriented north and south toward Beverly and Salem harbors, respectively. Public ways then grew along the property lines to connect the harbors with Essex Street. An area just north of Essex Street and west of Shallop Cove was not used at first because of poor drainage,but it later became the central"Common." Land beyond the rivers in north and south Salem also was designated as"common,"and it was farmed cooperatively by ►'> families who lived in the town center. Shadows of this layout and an ample scattering of seventeenth century dwellings are still with us today. I� Within a decade,at least a half dozen compact settlements were established in the surrounding area as an extension of Salem's success. Their systems of spatial linkages were tightly woven, and a conservative Puritan social order thrived. This was the setting for"scarlet letters" and the I infamous"Witch Trials"of 1692. Today,references to"witches"are found throughout the city. But in addition to the trials,there are other interpretations of that theme as well;often at opposite ends of the spectrum,and sometimes providing a source of controversy. They include the image `l of a witch on a broomstick as a city emblem,the scary witches and ghouls of the annual I2 r Bass River Beverly Figure 1 ' ;r �1h Ftie\ds Probable First r x' N ...Settlement of. '. 'Boger Conant•I•• , 1 Beverly Harbor ,5ha11oP. �. Neck Salem ;.3 `Cove Gallows +r'.;.:':.= j A Hill G ... .;fir! • S r� K E +:•ti Q` :: c bber. Essex Blu A �• / Vij.;,•�J•' `y . Hollow Sheet L� •.�, e� i:�'.' N P Common i. Focus of Eartlest ;south Port Activities �i•pyi.s !, w•� ;s" Island'_ SALEM ` Salem Harbor south tit MASSACHUSETTS :• ___ Fields • EARLY SETTLEMENT PERIOD pikora " 1626-1700 "Haunted Happenings"festival in October,and also a community of witches who seriously practice Wiccan religious beliefs. Maritime Trade: The glory days of Salem were spawned by the maritime trade of the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, and this period provides the most significant imprint of the city's past. Trade with Britain,the West Indies and the Mediterranean were important before the Revolutionary War,but it was the post-war Far East trade that brought riches,fame,and growth to the city. These connections triggered the collection of commodities from around the world, and examples of the more unusual artifacts formed the beginnings of Salem's Peabody Essex Museum. To accommodate the increase in larger vessels,traffic and cargoes, many new wharves and warehouses were built from the South River to the shoreline of Derby Street(Fig. 2). In 1790, Salem was the sixth largest city in the United States,and by 1800 it was paying over 5% of the nation's taxes. Distinguished Salemites played significant roles in commerce,politics and 3 fly�re 2^:. North River, : SALEM :t :�: ;��' MASSACHUSETTS a°Q� shallop. (Collins).-. MARITIME PERIOD :Cove 1760-1820 Jab r cnu,an St. Eery - .Common [ Court rA r !l House I ✓Y t street Essex ' House ustoms a r Housr. (1805) Customs Street House �eY TSsvn'honl St. (1819) O House' 9{ :. Cove Burying .a••'..? Point r:,; Hatch's �• s, ;i• +:: . ' ;Wharf r WhIfe's +u {i . ' „ t:'••furhiri 'Wharf Union .Crrnfinl 'Wharf South River Wharf P*rby '' `%u�,:• . Wharf sVll Omra 4;od VAO Road Ts-•'�'•:'r"Mr: .;su,' to Marblehead •r� `"• Salem Harbor °`'pikora ' early manufacturing. They included Elias Hasket Derby, America's first millionaire; William Gray,who with trade between ports from Russia to Calcutta,became the nation's leading ship _ owner with over 180 vessels.and the sons of George Crowninshield who served in Congress,as Secretary to the Navy and as mill owners. Between 1760 and 1820,wealthy and politically M powerful merchants built fine homes in the classical architectural styles that still define the neighborhoods around Washington Square, Chestnut Street and Federal Street,among others. This period also set the foundation for Salem as a nineteenth century center of cultural activity and intellectual curiosity. Writers like Nathaniel Hawthorne,with his The Scarlet Letter,made the city part of the literary fabric of the nation. Samuel McIntire, artisan and architect,created Imasterpieces which easily rivaled those of Bullfinch who worked in the better known city of Boston. Edward Holyoke practiced medicine and collected the most extensive weather records of his time. And Nathaniel Bowditch was a linguist,mathematician, surveyor,and navigator who created precise nautical charts of Salem Harbor and beyond. His text, The New American Practical Navi ator,continues to be published by the US Navy. i The tide began to change, however,when a trade embargo on American goods headed for British ports was declared by President Thomas Jefferson in 1807. It stopped nearly all sailings from Salem,and it signaled the beginning of the decline of the Maritime Era. After the War of 1812, I 4 y Salem began to realize that its harbor was too small to compete with other ports which could better accommodate the increasing size of ships. By 1840,the city's trade volume had fallen dramatically and its population had dropped to the rank of twenty-first in the nation. Manufacturing: � t The manufacturing of textiles,leather and shoes began to replace maritime activities as the economic base of Salem and the surrounding area in the 1800's. Land for mills and warehouses was found along the harbor and especially by filling in the banks of the North and South Rivers. In 1839,a year after the railroad arrived,the Naumkeag Steam Cotton Mill was built on Salem's waterfront(Fig. 3). Imported coal provided the power for the Naumkeag as well as later mills. Leather processing began to grow as early as 1805 on the North River from Salem westward to the area that was to become Peabody. By the middle of the century, a one mile stretch along "Blubber Hollow"produced over 50%of the nation's leather. Early shoe production was found in a number of coastal communities including Salem where seafaring families provided an off Flyure 3 Beverly r�..;. Beverly Harbor 0sh salom lwlh*r +• i Willows Tannoribs ::v Collins cove �NeGK 0� Polish •.p._r ',., •cb�+���: .� . .. Nau st Corby 11A; �C Mills kea Wharf Q`eCCa` P-quo► ' R: Go Mrus SALEM MASSACHUSETTS 5alem Harbor -circa 1910- i MANUFACTURING and piko ETHNIC NEIGHBORHOODS 5 season labor force at home or in back yard sheds. As the industry became more mechanized,the cities of Haverhill in the north and Lynn in sou krzrn Essex County dominated shoe production. " T New waves of immigrants came with the ni lmufacturing jobs. Salem received its first mill workers from the inland towns of New England,the Maritime Provinces of Canada,England and Scotland. By mid-century, large numbers�of Irish began to arrive followed by French Canadians, F f Poles and Italians in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. They lived in new neighborhoods built in North and Sough Salem and in older areas around Derby and Congress Streets, often in the infill hoi liwi of "three deckers" and brick apartment buildings. The wealth "*t of the mill era also.%W&&c d several middle to upper class neighborhoods off of Salem Common and alone_?--aravette Street where Victorian architectural styles still predominate. The prosperity and populatio�v gru` �u related to manufacturing stalled and eventually began to ttecline in the first half of the twentieth c , tu ry. Salem's"Great Conflagration"of 1914,which started in"Blubber Hollow," destroyed much of central and western parts of the city. This, along with the Great Depression of the '30's,the loss mf leather jobs after World War II,and the closing of most of the textile mills by the mid 1950's ended the city's function as a center of manufacturing. r+ Central Business Activities: Salem was a center for commerce in Essex County from the beginning. But its emergence as a primary center in the hierarchy of the North Shore of Boston was fueled by the early construction of a railroad line and the retail and service needs of a growing population in manufacturing. By 1910. an intricate pattern of streetcar lines made Salem a focal point for surrounding n communities, and a central business district stretched along Essex Street from North Street in the west to Hawthorne Boulevard in the east. It had a nearly continuous row of ground floor storefronts with offices in second and third stories. This intensity of use reached its peak in the mid 1950's with department stores, a variety of high order specialty shops,and entertainment, medical and financial activities. But the economy of central business functions then followed the way of manufacturing decline. n From 1954 to 1958, a railroad tunnel was constructed in the heart of the downtown creating confusion and congestion for auto traffic. In 1958,the Northshore Mall opened at the junction of Routes 128 and 114. The easy access to the planned shopping center and its increased breadth of r„y high order goods dealt a severe blow to Salem's CBD. By 1968, retail stores lost over half of the space that they occupied before the rail tunnel.and by 1987,only the city block at the southeast corner of the Washington Street/Essex Street intersection could be classified in a Central Shopping District capacity(Fig. 4). r� 6 ^,•: _North Ri yer•; SALEM Figure a f`. MASSACHUSETTS Rao Station 1950-1997 CENTRAL SHOPPING DISTRICT and TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Collins Cove Federal St. = Witch �Dungeon Brijge St. gU �Museumf Q ■Witch House Fs -1- Chun y %Psv"t0�' Salem Witch DD hSt. Yiente ' ` �seum "¢s Chestnut St n " Tra � r CENTRAL SHOPPING OR, L �Qs�ugOJ� DISTRICT CHANGES / s lE (According to CSD Index •�'c� Witch Trials—•� � r St \ �I ( g ,m rM'' e' lem Wil.2,.:!: developed by J.L George) 3 raeula's /Memorial SatemW� f , l 1958 CSD Boundary Castle Salem Wax 3 n L�1 1967 CSD Boundary 1987 CSD Boundary j�O Muse_p«t,npypd i �i Salem St. M4seum 1 Derin TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Maritimer� Pickering — of TOURIST of M Pre-1970 Sites Wharf Historic Site Seven Gables Recently Expanded or Renovated ot�0ffi!0 Sites . I Li ! A A Established Between 19701990 T Established After 1990 (Does not include specific Is mric houses and tourist \ USeV - rclated retail,transport,dining and lodging businesses) V Mand Monste t:�� '�.'• ' \/ or Salem Harb p�ora !Salem 1630: Pion or Villag0 1ti: '• i :. In an effort to revive the downtown,a creative plan involving historic restoration,pedestrian malls and vehicular infrastructure was implemented in the early`70's. The idea was to develop an attractive functional setting combining the city's ambiance•history,museums, and restaurants in order to rekindle interests from retailers, service businesses and their markets. While the efforts received national attention and�shopnums and a high degrr of design ee of, ituoccu unoccupied spad not work. ce,ehen at the mid 1990's,the downtown had few spec p p p East India Mall with its parking garage built in 1976. Shoppers and businesses continued to be attracted more by the alternatives along the Route 128 Belt. Tourism: Tourism and its related recreational activities have enjoyed a long historiv in Salem and on the North Shore of Boston. Shortly,after 1800, sea breezes in Nahant cooled vacationers from Boston,and a seaside hotel was built in 1823. Summer colonies and coastal mansions, or "cottages,"from Beverly to Gloucester began to appear after the opening of the railroad to Cape Ann in 1846;and Marblehead was already an important yachting center after the Civil War. Salem's nineteenth century attraction was Salem Willows, an amusement park at the eastern 7 edge of Salem Neck. Here family owned restaurants, rides and game arcades drew patrons from Salem and surrounding communities each summer. Unlike most other amusement parks in New England today, the"Willows" is still in business operating successfully. Until 35 years ago,the only other significant tourist attraction in Salem was the House of Seven Gables. This,despite the city's rich history and its Customs House,the Peabody Museum and the Essex Institute(Fig. 4). But in the 1970's with the opening of the Salem Witch Museum and the construction of tourist oriented businesses at the Pickering Wharf complex,the image of tourism in the city began to change from that of an"unnecessary inconvenience"to a possible new direction for a viable economic base. In the late `80's,the Salem Partnership was established by a number of public agencies and private businesses, and it identified tourism development as a leading economic goal for the community. The"Partnership,"along with the National Park Service, was successful in launching a regional tourism plan incorporating all of Essex County, ` and in obtaining funds to construct a regional visitor center in Salem at the site of an abandoned armory. In a sense, it is an effort to capitalize on the area's rich history to create a new era of development,catering to a more affluent and educated tourist market segment. New attractions have opened in recent years,and the National Park Service and House of Seven Gables have undertaken extensive renovations and expansions at their sites. The city also has committed its I resources to the development of necessary infrastructure. There are now discussions about the I possibilities of bringing a major hotel and conference center to the former Parker Brothers industrial site near the rail station along the North River,the opening of a children's museum perhaps at the old Salem Jail,the promotion of outlet store space to enhance the city's retail mix, 4 and even a new pier to accommodate cruise ships. A significant project was announced this year by the recently merged Peabody Essex Museum. It involves$75 million worth of development at the eastern end of the Essex Street Mall, and it should provide a boost not only to the city's +} tourism industry,but to the retail and service business climate as well. Using tourism to promote development in New England today is a rather common theme in many communities,but the richness of Salem's historical resources provides a unique opportunity for i� success. 8 f T � f N6% S` `�n •e•. s.•• •s '''• �(L m � �`� W h�n9tO�SA•E°st ° n c /N �; :J N: •;.• :�, '� po ti6 0 C EGOS Q ;c LLJ C H a P^I8 sujoy{,0 _ C,� 'a H '{S SSej6uo3 N 4.gll • ••~ C� 'O � ❑m N N N t• O '{S salad•IS v' tl N b CLi OI N� u ` N + IS allstolol I v c o ..f h M 0 � N C� o — In-, J,o a �` t: h uo16u14 0 ` c F- w W NO= d w of F- I/ i W 1 CD IS yNoN Q V i Z � . i � nQ d i v n s N Q � w � �, 1 V/ Q i/+ ,cif J M M W QO zk ODP.;wo�A v N LLJ S U. CS '1S Pjol�l°eg a a a « 1S uolllwOH ova W m G o 1S ut�'t to � itc OCO � M a o a a + V W M O a V o V.'{S 1u!13 •- Ci ri 9 The Walking Tour The walking tour begins at the main entrance of the Hawthorne Hotel and proceeds along three major segments. The first includes the Washington Square and Derby Street Historic Districts and the harbor area most important to trade during the Maritime Era. The second part follows the shoreline of the early port into the Salem Downtown Historic District. A third segment in the McIntire Historic District focuses on the classical architectural styles from Chestnut Street to Federal Street. Specific sites such as the House of Seven Gables,the National Maritime Historic W? rq Site. Pickering Wharf and the Peabody Essex Museum provide an opportunity to spend more CO. than several hours at one location. A preliminary review of the tour map,therefore,might be helpful in scheduling your time(Fig. 5). r1 First Tour Segment *� Hawthorne Hotel: Built in the 1920's, it exhibits the details of classic architecture popular toward the end of an era in which many fine smaller hotels were constructed around the country,and it is listed in Historic Hotels of America. The Hawthorne is unusual because it was constructed with the use of public subscriptions from a citizenry desiring a place for overnight guests to the city. After leaving the Hawthorne Hotel entrance, turn left, then cross Hawthorne Boulevard n at the intersection with Essex.Street. In many ways, the historical changes in Salem's geography can be viewed through architecture. Examples of two of the most prominent architectural periods in the city are found at this corner, and they serve as a good introduction to the tour. Both houses are part of a larger Peabody Essex Museum compound of historic structures. r� 21 Crowninshield-Bentley House: Owned by the Crowninshields, one of Salem's most ambitious families. The Reverend William Bentley, Salem's"Renaissance Man"whose diary portrayed the life of the times,also stayed here for a time. Constructed around 1727, it reflects the early Georgian Period with its gambrel roof and pediment over the front door. A typical center chimney is absent, however, replaced by two chimneys in the rear r, portions of the house. The style was popular from 1720 until after the American Revolution. During the middle and later Georgian Period, larger mansion-like homes I�Ififil�l were featured. Many had a variety of ornate accents n including quoins, or horizontal boards of alternating lengths that accentuate the corners of the structure. ri 10 M NGardner-Pingree House: Stands in sharp contrast to the house next door. Designed by Salem's most notable architect Samuel McIntire and completed in 1805, it has exquisite proportions from the Federal Period and it includes a typical shallow hipped roof with balustrades, slender chimneys on the ends of the house,and smaller third story windows. This period lasted from around the American Revolution to the 1820's,but its impact on the character of the city is far greater than its relatively short time span. Walk northward along Washington Square North past the: - 4 Andrew - Safford House: Considered to be one of the most grandiose and expensive mansions in America when it was built in 1818 for John Andrew,who obtained his wealth in the fur trade. It was designed in the Federal style,and its great columns along the south side , were filled with salt to prevent decay. The house belongs to the Peabody Essex Museum. RRoger Conant Statue: Conant, along with a small group of followers,founded the first settlement in Salem in 1626. They arrived here after an earlier failed attempt to establish a fishing colony at the site of Gloucester on Cape Ann;and they became"planters,"producing basic food crops for early Salem. Tourists sometimes mistake the statue for that of a witch. - John Ward House: Around the corner to the west on 'T Brown Street is a good example of one of Salem's earliest homes,built in 1684. This architectural type preceded the Georgian style, and it is generally considered as belonging to the First Period. Houses from this era F commonly have a steep roof, gables, and casement windows with small panes. ti r WAa 5 i nWitch Museum: Visitors enter a large theater-like room where a series of sequentially lit scenes are used to describe the hysteria of the Witch Trials of 1692. r Cross Washington Square North on to: Salem Common or Washington Square: Salem Common, like Boston Common, is situated away from the more valuable and intensely used land around the harbor. It also had poor drainage, making it unattractive for early development. Unlike many other New England "commons," the nine acre field was not used to train the militia until after 1800 because Salem's earlier military role was in providing sailor's for naval duty. The bandstand was built to 11 commemorate Salem's 300th birthday in 1926,and the arch toward the northwest side of the Common is a replica of that created by Samuel McIntire in honor of a visit by George Washington. Today,the Common is the site for many public events and festivals, and it provides an important link in the city's open space and recreation system with its playground,benches and walkways. .Stroll through the Common toward Washington Square East on the path that parallels Washington Square South. The architectural scene around the Common is dominated by the Federal.style: and in 1976, the area was designated as the Washington Square k Historic District, thereby limiting alterations to its character. e� ❑9 Boardman Street: Most of the housing on the - land east of the Common toward Collins Cove was built after the 1880's. Several streets, including Boardman,are surprisingly uniform in their Victorian styles. An architectural showpiece of the neighborhood is the Byzantine form of the St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Catholic Church t _ located at the corner of Webb and Forrester Streets. It's worth the trip off of the tour path r;5 if there is extra time. r, It Cross'Washington Square South and walk a few steps to Essex Street. This is the - beginning of the Derby Street Historic District which extends to the harbor. - T5T niK-H&I-4S The neighborhood has housed a variety gfsocial classes throughout its long history. Off to the right is the: 10 Narbonne-Hale House: An example of seventeenth century architecture, the building has served as a home and shop for a variety of tradesmen including a rope maker and a i . tanner. Restored with the use of X-ray technology to prevent damage to the original structure. } Follow Essex Street eastward past Daniels.Street and turn southward on to Hardy Street, then walk to Derby Street On the way is the: ' 12 11 Daniels House: The earliest part of this house, with its large center t chimney, steep roof and casement windows was built around 1667,or in Salem's First Period of architecture. A"lean to" salt box addition was made in the 18th century. The Daniels House has served as an inn for a longer period of time than any other in Salem. 12 Essex, Daniels, Hardy, and Derby Streets: Have a variety of housing stock representing all eras in the growth of the city. In the early years, craftsmen and tradesmen lived here,often next to wealthy merchants. It was a pedestrian neighborhood where everyone walked to the center of economic activity at the harbor. During the industrial era, it became a place for immigrants,especially Poles,and "three deckers"along with brick apartment buildings were constructed. Today,it is a changing neighborhood housing the children of immigrant families,commuters from Boston and others who see the rewards of investing in"gentrification." 13 Ye Olde Pepper Candy Companie: Established in 1806, it is America's oldest candy company boasting ajar of 167 year old edible"Gibraltars." 14 House of Seven Gables Settlement: Includes Nathaniel Hawthome's birthplace as well i as the House of the Seven Gables made famous by Hawthorne's novel. The House of Seven Gables was built in 1668 for John Turner, - a successful ship captain who had his - wharf just steps from his front door. - Also in the compound from the First _ _ - Period is the house of Retire Becket,a shipbuilder. They provide an easily recognized contrast with nearby o nee S'WfV GA IFS Federal and Georgian structures. Walk westward along Derby Street past the former homes of coopers, and sail makers of the Maritime Era and mill workers later on: The social and functional character of this 13 . T ( neighborhood can be compared to that of the North End of Boston. Arrive at the Salem Maritime National Historic Site operated by the National Park Service. { 15 St. Joseph's Polish Club: Built in 1909, it served as a social and cultural center, even providing housing for new immigrants until the 1960's. Purchased by the NPS to be used for administrative space. 16 East India Goods Store: Where specialized goods from the Caribbean, in addition to convenience items like fishhooks and nails,were sold retail. 1'] Derby House: Built for Elias Hasket Derby in 1762 by his father, Captain Richard Derby. It is the oldest brick house in Salem,and it has an early Georgian style. Elias was a ship owner who supposedly was America's first millionaire. His docks were across the street. 18 Hawkes House: Built by Elias Derby in 1780,the house was designed by Samuel McIntire in the early Federal style. Derby used it as a warehouse for riches he obtained in privateering,then in 1801 he sold it to Benjamin Hawkes who completed it in its present form. ' 19 Derby Wharf: Looking toward the water,Derby Wharf,with Hatch's and Central Wharves to the right,are all that remain of the more f than fifty wharves that once lined the harbor. The original shoreline followed the outer side of ,� Derby Street,but to the west, the `a - _" harbor and the South River I y�¢/Zgy u1Nd tiF u��"^ have been filled. Derby Wharf extends over 2,000 feet into the water,and once had up to 14 warehouses on it to store cargo. The small and sturdy warehouses now seen at Central Wharf were typical of those during the Maritime Era. 20 Friendship: is a recently built replica of an East Indiaman merchant ship originally launched in 1797. It made seventeen trips to Europe, Java, China and other Asian ports. Friendship's history is well documented by logs and exhibits at the Peabody Essex Museum. (At the time of this writing,the Friendship was scheduled to arrive in October of 1997.) 21 Customs House: Constructed in the Federal style in 1819 as the Maritime Era was declining. Its function centered around issuing permits to land cargo and for the collection of customs taxes. The Scale House to the rear was used for weighing goods. Nathaniel Hawthorne worked as the Port Surveyor in the first floor front room;and he more than likely 14 t used some to his free time here during the waning years of Salem's trade activity for writing The 22 Naumkeag Mills: Across the water to the southwest are the old Nau in the mid 18U0's as Salem entered the textile manufacturing mkeag Mills built source. Today the structures house a number of successful era. It used replacement businessecoal rhichwer contribute to the economic base of the city and also help to support the 23 Pickeringneighborhood. the late 19 O's�hhenf t�,s deve]o Served as a coal and oil fue]de restaurant complex. It also has entertainment pot for Salem from mid 1800's until developed as a mixed residential,specialized retail and 4 r _ period of decline in the late `80° activities and Mooring e being redevelo s, in part because of problems with space for boats. After a redeveloped. The Russian Aid Society near to Der parking, the wharf is now functions as the Polish Club, but to a smaller rou �'Street provided somewhat the same g p of immig7ants. Walk westward along g Derby Street, and arrive at the intersection with Hawthorne Anew garage to help ease visitor southwest corner. For those who have spent more or ever g p oblems is located on the Hotel is a short walk up Hawthorne Boulevard. Otherwise, continue to You can save the rest for later.d. the Museum to the move along the north side you during the the Salem Wax Museum. The land here was created by past the Pirate Museum, turn right u manufacturing era to provide space for mills and filling In the Nabx r p 1_iberty Street to the Witch Trials Memorial. Second Tour segment 24 Witch Trials M :emorial. witchcraft h 1692 The Was constructed on the 300th anniversary of Salem's names of victims and some f heir comments dU7sign 1selected from com the accused were executed peting entries; and it has the by hanging,most likely at Gallows Hill in the on western es. but their burial sites are general] Many of Y unknown. part of the city, 25 Go re House: fine example of First Period architecture with a s eeped to be the l roof adest nd in Salem diamond-shaped panes. � built in 1638. q Owned by the Peabody Essex Museum and used ascasemento ice spa with Walk westward down Charter Street. To To the left, on a knoll that once looked outtheOver ghte f Part of the Peabody Essex Museum. p rt facing south, is.. 15 �w ' 26 The Burying Point: The oldest burying ground in Salem,established in 1637. It includes names like Gov. Simon Bradstreet; Capt. - Richard More,a passenger on the Mayflower: John Hathorne,a magistrate who conducted witch pre-trials,Bartholomew Gedney,a witch trial judge;and Mary Cory, a wife of Giles Cory who was accused of witchcraft �� 0,// and crushed to death. A sea wall and the elevated site protected the cemetery from a ' tidal erosion problem on the north bank of the South River port area. • �ueY�NG PplNr � M Df"Y Sr 27 Grimshawe House: Located next to the cemetery. Today,it serves as a privately owned rooming house,but it was once the site of Nathaniel Hawthorne's courtship of his wife Sophia Peabody. She,along with her sisters Mary and Elizabeth, started the first public school in America. Hawthorne makes use of the house in Doctor Grimshawe's Secret. At the end of Charter Street just up to the right at No.4 Central Street is the: 28 Old Customs House: Used from 1805 until its replacement was constructed at the head of Derby Wharf in 1819. The old Customs House stood less than a block from the water's edge at the south side of this intersection. Move on to Front Street. This was an area of warehouse activities bordering the former Town - T House Cove section of the early port immediately }�to the south. Most oj-the existing structures were - built in the early nineteenth century. By the _ 1960's, however, they had fallen into disrepair, form- and were Y use g occupied b d goods stores and lower P --- class bars. Front Street, as well as the rest of the j�.- central commercial area along Essex Street, was included in the Heritage Plaza East plan for downtown t rehabilitation in the late 1960's, and designated as _ the Salem Downtown Historic District in 1972. A �f�aryr- ST 16 �7 HUD sponsored easement program allowed public fisnds to be used for outside facade ~ restoration, while the owners were responsible for rehabilitating the inside. 29 Derby Market: Like Haymarket in Boston,Derby Market served as an exchange for food and other goods at the water's edge for well over a hundred years. The city built the current walkway and structures in 1976, and leased them to private businesses. The area has had problems in defining its market,and there is now a review of its use with a discussion of its ; potential for increasing downtown parking. Derby Town Hall Square: Donated by the Derby family under the provisions that a town hall be constructed by the citizens of Salem. - "Derby"Hall was first opened when President Monroe visited the city in 1817. It now houses the Salem Chamber of Commerce, and — - `_ ,__ , •,�_ it has space for public functions. Derby �y Square is used for outside meetings and festivals,and as an access way between Essex, '� sr Front and Derby Streets. rOwry ►e�ie. ~ I Move along Front Street, then turn right up Washington Street. The,focal point of early port functions in Salem was to the left of Front Street and lower Washington Street. 31 -Joshua Ward House: This Federal style house was constructed in the 1780's on the water's edge at the inner-most point in the Town House Cove section of the port. 32 Meetinghouse House: Site where several witchcraft examinations were held in 1692. In 1775, it was at this intersection where the General Assembly of the Province of Massachusetts met to elect delegates to the First Continental Congress. The current brick edifice once housed Daniel Low's which served as the department store at the Peak Land Value Intersection in Salem's Central Business District for many years. Its future is now uncertain. 33 Town Pump: The fountain with Hawthorne's image is a few feet north of the actual site of the original well and pump. Hawthorne made the pump famous when he used its perspective to write"A Rill from the Town Pump,"a short story in his Twice Told Tales. 17 Turn west and walk along Essex Street to North Street. This was once a part of Salem's bustling CBD. Today, it begins with an "express"fast food McDonald's located at the former PLVI,followed by a variety of businesses with little rational retail organization. 34 Jerry's: Said to be one of America's oldest department stores. It is now the only retail establishment that offers a variety of clothing and other goods in the downtown. �. , Crossing North Street, continue on Essex Street: - _ - -- 35 Witch House: Home of Witch Trial Judge = Jonathan Corwin and the possible site of preliminary trial examinations. Built in 1642, it is another fine example of Salem's First Period. ✓�J�r�H „ �10�s� 36 First Church of Salem: Considered to have the oldest continuing Protestant congregation in America,dating back to 1629. Roger Williams,who later left for Rhode Island, and William Bentley served as ministers here. The present English Gothic structure was completed in 1836,and it displays stained glass windows by John LaFarge. 37 Ropes Mansion: An impressive Georgian. Built around 1720, it is considered Salem's oldest"mansion." Formal gardens and the distance from the street enhance its elegance. Third Tour Segment Another decision. The third segment of the tour centers around the McIntire Historic - District including Chestnut Street, which some consider to be America's most beautiful residential way. It should not be missed, especially if you have an interest in Early American architecture. For those with limited time who wish to move toward the tour's point of origin, turn back to North Street, then northward to Federal Street. Listing #48 continues on the path of the Second Tour Segment. To experience the McIntire Historic District option, walk down Cambridge Street to Chestnut Street. 38 South Church Site: Residents have defended this green space against development since the old church burned at the corner of Chestnut and Cambridge Streets in 1904. 18 C� 39 Hamilton Hall: Another Federal,designed by McIntire and completed in 1807. It was named in honor of Alexander Hamilton's visit to Salem. A large ballroom/meeting room upstairs along with smaller rooms or shops on the first floor liken its functional design to i "Derby"Hall in Townhouse Square and Faneuil Hall in Boston. A most unique home can be seen by continuing down Cambridge Street, then west on Broad Street. Afterwards, turn north on 1f Pickering Street, and back to Chestnut Street. 40 Pickering House: This was actually a First Period home built by John _ Pickering around 1651,but it was changed - dramatically with Gothic additions later on. It has the distinction of being the oldest house + 0 in Salem occupied continuously by the same family. ~~ * 41 Chestnut Street: Hidden from the traffic of Broad and Essex Streets, this tree lined by-way is a quiet reflection of architectural distinction. Surprisingly, McIntire is given credit for only two of the structures here, No. 12 and Hamilton Hall. Yet, crisp Federal lines dominate the streetscape. Most of the homes were built by wealthy merchants and sea captains around the turn of the nineteenth century;with wooden structures generally completed before those of brick. The"double"house at No. 20-22 and other addresses were often built by brothers or sisters,but they are owned separately today. While some of the old stock families still live here,most of the homes are now occupied by people of various social backgrounds. The Stephen Philips Memorial Trust House at 34 Chestnut Street is the only home open to the public for tours. ] 42 Hawthorne Residence: No. 18 Chestnut Street was home to Nathaniel Hawthorne for a short period of time around 1846, and it is also perhaps the oldest house on the street. Walk northward on Hamilton Street, then turn left on to: �1 43 Essex Street: Providing the reference point for the overall development of the traffic �• pattern in much of the city,Essex Street bisects the old Naumkeag Peninsula with intersecting streets extending from it toward the North and South Rivers. Its long history explains the variety of architectural styles from First Period to Georgian, Federal, Greek Revival l and Victorian structures. The house at No. 365 Essex Street represents one of the finest 19 ' f examples of Georgian architecture in Salem, complete with quoins. Around the bend to the west is the elegant English Gothic design of Grace Episcopal Church and its adjacent parish house. Cross Essex Street at the intersection, walk northward on Flint Street, then cast on 44 Federal Street: This section of Federal Street has y,que purity of architectural style that compares well with its neighbors in th !.'I. istoric district. Generally built in the eighteenth century before Chestnut Streeir is by its Federal architectural lines, ` wooden structures and homes tb t.bu right ncxl to the sidewalk, The historic plaques on almost even,h(,,tse ra�fe er�M•� - ' CO, o a variety of occupations for the early occupants. 45 Assembly House: Originally constructed in 1782 by prominent Salemites for social functions, it was visited by Lafayette and George Washington. Samuel McIntire later redesigned it as a private residence,but today it is owned by the Peabody Essex Museum. 46 "This Old House:"No. 124 Federal Street was recently featured in a series on PBS TV's This Old House. In addition to renovation techniques,a theme common to many of the episodes dealt with the strategies necessary to comply with regulations in a strictly controlled n historic district. 47 Joseph Cook House: Down Federal to the right at No. 14 Beckford Street is one of the oldest homes in the neighborhood,built between 1700 and 1730 A good example of a First Period saltbox and a nice contrast with the Georgian style at No. 16. 48 Peirce-Nichols House: While the overall !F' shape might be considered Federal, many ;. • '` '.' •. of the details from the front fence to the fluted corners of this magnificent �•:•.;�;•. :•%` y , ' t JE4 mansion are Georgian. It was built z r �• ' around 1782 for Jerathmiel Peirce, • ' •'.+ a ship owner who unloaded his goods just down the slope from his back door. �'• :�:. �:• At that time,the North River to the _ •• west of the present North Street bridge was open and large enough to accommodate cargo vessels. McIntire Frp 4L s completed extensive revisions to the house around 1800. 20 Carefully cross North Street and continue on Federal Street toward Washington Street: 9 John Felt House: Built in 1757, this 2 1/2 story gambrel reflects Georgian lines, and it wQ ,: ,pular style for the middle class in the trades and crafts during the mid- 1700's. F5_61 Essex County Offices airy Courthouse: Essex is one of the oldest counties in the country,and many of its administrative uw"d"'d�c'al functions are located here (Lawrence. Massachusetts is a second seat for county government is `,sex County). The mix of late nineteenth and twentieth century modern buildings,along wit�ii af,rby law ms and other ` support services,make this area a distinctive subset of downtown Salem; 11pnrtant to c + the local economy. - 51 Train Station: At the end of Washington Street is the entrance to the rail connection ' between Salem and Boston. It is used by a growing number of commuters who make up an increasing percentage of Salem's population. In recent years,travel by train also ir ` has been encouraged for tourists in order to O ease auto traffic congestion in the city;and experiments with combination passes for tourist attractions and train / fares have been successful. 52 Development Site: Just east of the train station is a large parcel of land with a high r potential for development,perhaps with a focus on Salem's tourism industry. Shortly after 1900,this part of the North River was filled for industrial purposes. Perhaps its most notable occupant was Parker Brothers Games of Monopoly fame;but it left the city and the facility was r leveled in 1996. Today,many community leaders envision a hotel/convention/retail mix on the site which would fit well with Salem's existing tourism industry, its proximity to public transportation and Logan International Airport,and a need for additional lodging in the city. Walk southward on the right side of Washington Street to the crossing at Church Street. 53 Tabernacle Church: Has a direct lineage to the first Congregational Church in America over two hundred years ago. The current structure was built along neo-classical Georgian lines in 1924. l� _� 21 54 City Hall and Old Court House: Looking southward about half way down the block on the left side of Washington Street is the City Hall of Salem. It was erected in 1837 with surplus funds distributed by the US Treasury. Original records dating back to the early 1600's are kept here, including the deed of the land for Salem obtained from the native Americans in the area. The old courthouse where many of the witch trials were conducted once stood in the middle of Washington Street near to the front of the present City Hall. Cross Washington Street to Church Street and proceed eastward. 55 Lyceum: One of the first buildings in Salem to be rescued from a century of coverings and disrepair in the early 1970's. Its historical significance comes from its function as a lecture hall which featured notables such as Ralph Waldo Emerson,Henry Thoreau,Daniel Webster,John Quincy Adams,Oliver Wendell Holmes and Horace Mann. The renovations uncovered original documents from Alexander Graham Bell's first news dispatch by telephone made from here to the Boston Daily Globe in 1877. 56 The Essex: A recent addition to the downtown,the site of this condominium complex was once occupied by Almy's, Salem's last department store. The main entrance to the store was on the opposite side of the building at the Essex Street Mall. 57 St. Peter's Church: With a congregation that traces itself back to 1626 and Roger Conant,it was the first Anglican church in New England, and it is another proud �—' member in Salem's historically significant family of religious structures. The remains of the Bowditch family and other distinguished early Salemites are �., crammed into the graveyard out front. Just before the American Revolution, ` the church was considered to be a Tory stronghold and General Gage attended services here. ' �PE'T+EiZs Lpae Salem Jail: Seemingly right offDicken's novel,the jail still housed prisoners as recently as 1992 withouts cells. Today,the facility is being considered for reuse as a museum ornction most likely related to the city's tourism industry. I jail or"gaol" which held the accused witchesof 1692 was located half waydown on the opposite side of �Ati� St. Peter Street. j. 22 59 Salem Parking Garage and Museum Place: Built in the mid 1970's to increase Ioff street parking and provide modern enclosed retail space,this was supposed to be an answer to holding the line on business district decline. But by the mid 1990's, retailing continued to leave Salem,and Museum Place had a high rate of vacancy and turnover. This was 666 perhaps due,in part,to a fortress-like appearance and low visual access from the outside. In 1996,a new owner redeveloped Museum Place by opening up store fronts to the street, increasing i foot traffic accessibility and attracting several upscale businesses. The future looks brighter. I Move through the main entrance ofMuseum Place and follow the corridor straight ahead, then to the left to exit on to: 60 East India Square: Often a focal point for pedestrian traffic and outdoor functions. The cobble stones in the pool at the fountain reflect the shoreline of the original Naumkeag Peninsula. 61 Essex Street Pedestrian Mall: The heart of the Central Business District once extended from here along several blocks to the west. Its early history evolved out of the "back door"of warehousing activities just to the south on Front Street and the waterfront. After its peak in the early 1950's, years of decline set in during the late 50's and 60's because of new I competing shopping malls and congested auto traffic. In the mid 70's, the street was converted into a paved pedestrian mall in an attempt to attract shoppers and businesses back to a functional environment that was similar to planned shopping malls,but with restaurants,family owned i service oriented businesses,a sense of history and the more spontaneous ambiance of a city. Yet, r the decline continued. Critics have argued that the mall has reduced parking and store front visibility by not allowing auto traffic. Others take the position that parking has been increased with nearby lots and the adjacent garage,that auto traffic avoided Essex Street anyway because of its congestion,and that the bricks have certainly increased the aesthetic character of the shopping area. Today,there are basically three types of establishments along the mall;convenience stores used by nearby residents,businesses focusing on items of interest to tourists, and a small number of specialized shops catering to a loyal market in the greater Salem region. The latter are generally holdovers from the"glory" days of the CBD. While life on the mall is still slow, activity has increased recently with city sponsored incentives for businesses and a number of scheduled special events. J 62 Peabody Essex Museum: A result of the recent merger between the former Peabody Museum and the Essex Institute. Founded in 1799, the Peabody was the oldest operating museum in the United States, and it had developed an international reputation long before Salem became a popular tourist destination. Although artifacts brought back during the period of maritime trade with the Far East formed the basis for its beginnings, it has extensive collections 23 p o o a O e p D from the South Sea islands,native # American culture, natural history,and the 4 early development of Salem,among other topic: The Essex Institute has had a strong reputation for its Early American collections,its research library,and its cluster of period homes. Together as the Peabody Essex Museum,they are a formidable item on Salem's menu for tourism,cultural events,and research and educational programs. The plan to invest$75 million into expansion and renovation at this end of Essex Street will also make a significant contribution to the city's economy. Some controversy, however, surrounds the proposal to tear down the facade of the former National Guard Armory at the intersection of Liberty and Essex Streets,and replace it with a more functional structure. f■ Many feel that it should be preserved because of its unique architectural lines,and that somehow the structure should be integrated into the overall development design. 63 N.P.S. Regional Visitor Center: Around the corner on Liberty Street to the northeast is the National Park Service Regional Visitor Center. Using the gateway function of Salem, it attempts to promote tourism in Essex County in general. It was opened in 1994 as a result of federal funding obtained because of the strong support of communities in the County and the Salem Partnership,a group of public agencies and private businesses dedicated to providing a better economic and living environment in the city. The visitor center also reflects a unique leadership role for the NPS in promoting regional tourism well beyond the borders of its t facility at the National Maritime Historic Site on the waterfront. With the Hawthorne Hotel just a few steps away on Essex Street,our tour comes to a close. It offers a summary of notes that reflect nearly four centuries of Salem's changing geography. The Regional Visitor Center can provide cues to whet the appetite for the rest of the county as well. Salem and its region have a lot to offer. 24 SELECTED REFERENCES Bailyn,Bernard. The New England Merchants in the Seventeenth Century, New York: Harper&Row, 1964. Berman,Mildred. "The Morphology of Dr. Bentley's Salem," Proceedin s-Meetings of the - New En land St.Lawrence Valley Georrgahical Soci Vol. 7, 1977. r.. Burgy,J.Herbert. The New England Cotton Textile Indu . Baltimore: The Waverly Press, 1932. George,John L. In uence of a Planned R 'onal ShovpjM Center on the Established Central Business Districts of Salem and Lynn, Massachusetts. Ph.D.Dissertation,Boston University, 1968. George,John L. &Theodore S. Pikora. Retail Trends in the Central Business District o Salem.Massachusetts.I Salem: Resource Center for Business at Salem State College for the City of Salem,Massachusetts, 1987. George,John L. &Theodore S.Pikora. Isitor Studv of Salem Massachusetts and the Salem Maritime National Historic Site-1989. Salem: Resource Center for Business at Salem State College for the National Park Service, 1990. Hurd,D.Hamilton. History o Essex Counti�. Philadelphia: J.W. Lewis Co., 1888. Perley, Sidney. History o1'Salem. 3 volumes, Salem, 1928. Pikora,Theodore S. "Visitor Patterns in Salem,Massachusetts and a Rationale for a Regional Integration of Tourism Resources," Proceedings: Meetings of the New England-St. Lawrence Vall Geo graphical Soci Vol. 21, 1991. Notes: Sketches,maps and doodles in this guide are by the author. They are based on field observations and a collection of sources including H.Baldwin, W.K.Freeman, H.McIntire,H.Meek,H.Noyes, S.Perley, J.D. Phillips and C.Putnam. COPYRIGHT©1997 By Theodore S.Pikora All rights reserved 25 it Sa e m S T A T E I C 0 L L E G E